tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-68381290917425200982024-03-13T13:34:11.585-07:00In 365 Tagen mit'm Radl von Kanada nach Bayern...... mit einem kleinen Umweg über Alaska, Guatemala und Griechenland!Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.comBlogger44125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-75078050904484002322014-08-06T13:38:00.002-07:002021-02-17T01:11:43.408-08:00Unsere Reise in Zahlen<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4oLiSGTZkRk/YCzaOVAEnGI/AAAAAAAALbo/VM5E6veW2RwMrxhSHHYaG1jKBWvu2mPewCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Weltkarte%2Bmit%2BReiseroute.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="961" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4oLiSGTZkRk/YCzaOVAEnGI/AAAAAAAALbo/VM5E6veW2RwMrxhSHHYaG1jKBWvu2mPewCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h240/Weltkarte%2Bmit%2BReiseroute.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">zum Vergrößern anklicken / <span style="color: #cc0000;">click to enlarge picture</span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
365 Tage - <span style="color: #cc0000;">365 days</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="color: black;">2 Narrische - <span style="color: #cc0000;">2 crazy people</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: #cc0000;"> </span></span></span>695 Stunden im Sattel - <span style="color: #cc0000;">695 hours in the saddle</span><span style="color: #cc0000;"> </span></div>
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10 646 Kilometer per Fahrrad - <span style="color: #cc0000;">10,646 kilometres by bicycle</span></div>
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11 Länder - <span style="color: #cc0000;">11 countries</span><br />
8 verschiedene Sprachen - <span style="color: #cc0000;">8 different languages</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"> </span>9 bis 129 Kilometer pro Tag - <span style="color: #cc0000;">9 to 129 kilometres in a day</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"> </span>7944 Stunden ununterbrochen zusammen - <span style="color: #cc0000;">7944 hours constantly together</span></div>
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4 Platten - <span style="color: #cc0000;">4 punctures</span><br />
2 abgefahrene Reifenmäntel -<span style="color: #cc0000;"> 2 worn tires</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="color: black;">0 gebrochene Speichen -</span> 0 broken spokes</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="color: black;">20 nagelneue Ersatzspeichen -</span> 20 brandnew spare spokes</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000; font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: black;">(braucht wer welche? :-) <span style="color: #cc0000;"> </span></span> (spokes, anyone? :-) </span><br />
180 Kilo Gepäck - <span style="color: #cc0000;">180 kilograms of gear</span> </div>
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1 verschusseltes Ding (EC-Karte) - <span style="color: #cc0000;">1 misplaced item (debit card)</span></div>
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1 gestohlenes Ding (Klettband) - <span style="color: #cc0000;">1 stolen item (velcro tape)</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"> </span>gute 20 000 Euro - <span style="color: #cc0000;">about 30,000 Canadian dollars</span></div>
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bis zu 4500 Kalorien pro Person täglich - <span style="color: #cc0000;">up to 4500 calories each per day</span></div>
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91 Gläser Nutella insgesamt - <span style="color: #cc0000;">91 jars of Nutella all together</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="color: black;">16 Gigabytes Musik -</span> 16 Gigabytes music</span><br />
6 Tage ohne Dusche maximal - <span style="color: #cc0000;">6 days without a shower max</span></div>
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51°C Höchsttemperatur - <span style="color: #cc0000;">51°C highest temperature</span><br />
65 km/h Höchstgeschwindigkeit - <span style="color: #cc0000;">65 kph top speed</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"> </span>2 angedrohte Polizeieinsätze - <span style="color: #cc0000;">2 threats of police operation</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="color: black;">1 davon wurde durchgeführt -</span> 1 of them became true </span><br />
7 mal per Anhalter - <span style="color: #cc0000;">7 times hitch hiking</span><br />
11 mal per Bus - <span style="color: #cc0000;">11 times by coach</span><br />
9 mal per Fähre - <span style="color: #cc0000;">9 times by ferry</span><br />
4 mal per Zug - <span style="color: #cc0000;">4 times by train</span><br />
2 mal geflogen - <span style="color: #cc0000;">2 flights</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"> </span>181 Nächte im Zelt - <span style="color: #cc0000;">181 nights in the tent</span></div>
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16 spontane Essensspenden - <span style="color: #cc0000;">16 spontaneous food donations</span><br />
16 private Gastgeber - <span style="color: #cc0000;">16 private hosts</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"> </span>86 neue E-mail-Adressen - <span style="color: #cc0000;">86 new e-mail addresses</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><span style="color: black;">9 Gigabytes Fotos - <span style="color: #cc0000;">9 gigabytes pictures</span></span> </span><br />
viele menschliche Begegnungen - <span style="color: #cc0000;">lots of interpersonal encounters</span></div>
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unzählige unvergessliche Momente - <span style="color: #cc0000;">countless unforgettable moments</span><br />
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Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Taufkirchen (Vils), Deutschland48.343889 12.13027799999997648.175031499999996 11.807554499999975 48.5127465 12.453001499999976tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-29908341359903867882014-08-01T04:07:00.000-07:002014-08-25T23:25:28.539-07:00Deutschland<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Mittwoch, 30. Juli:</u></b></div>
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Am frühen Nachmittag überqueren wir die Grenze zu Land Nummer elf.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the early afternoon, we cross the border to country number eleven.</span> <br />
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Passau vom Inn aus betrachtet.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Passau seen from the Inn river.</span> <br />
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Die wunderschöne Lage Passaus am Zusammenfluss dreier Flüsse hat ihren Preis: regelmäßige Hochwasser hinterlassen ihre Spuren im "bayrischen Venedig".</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">The lovely location of Passau at the confluence of three rivers has its price: regular high waters leave their marks in the "Venice of Bavaria".</span> </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zum Vergrößern anklicken / <span style="color: #cc0000;">Click to enlarge picture</span></td></tr>
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Das Hochwasser voriges Jahr war das zweitschlimmste seit Beginn der Aufzeichnungen. Viele Geschäfte in der Innenstadt sind immer noch wegen Renovierungsarbeiten geschlossen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As you can see by the water marks in the picture, last year's flood was the second worst in recorded history. There are many businesses downtown that are still closed for renovations.</span></div>
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Unser Zeltplatz an der Ilz. Wir ruhen uns erst mal ein paar Stunden aus, bevor wir einen Stadtspaziergang machen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our campground at the Ilz river. We relax for a couple of hours before walking around in town.</span> </div>
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Passau von der Veste Oberhaus aus, einer der größten Burganlagen Europas.<br />
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">View of Passau from the Veste Oberhaus, one of the biggest castle complexes in Europe.</span> </div>
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Blick auf die Altstadt und die größeren beiden der drei Flüsse, die hier zusammenfließen, den Inn (oben) und die Donau (ganz unten im Bild).<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We're looking down on the city centre and the two larger of the three rivers that meet here, the Inn (top) and the Danube (very bottom of the picture).</span> </div>
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Ja gut, das Dreiflüsseeck ist ja ganz nett in Passau, aber so richtig aufs Bild kriegt man es als Normalsterblicher ohne Hubschrauber eh nicht. Unser persönliches Highlight ist dieses pedalbetriebene Kinderkarussell auf dem Spielplatz gleich nebenan, das wir bis an seine physikalischen Grenzen bringen. Jetzt ist uns schlecht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Well, the spot where the three rivers meet is nice but there's no way you can get a good picture of the three-colour stream without a helicopter anyway. Our personal highlight is this pedalpowered merry-go-round on the children's playground nearby, and we push it to its physical limits. Now we're sick.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 44,32 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 15,94 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Zeltplatz an der Ilz in Passau<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 31. Juli: </u></b></div>
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Zur Mittagszeit ist der Stephansdom in Passau gerammelt voll, denn gleich beginnt das tägliche Orgelkonzert in der opulenten Barockkirche.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At noon, the St. Stephen's Cathedral in Passau is jam-packed because it's time for the daily organ concert in the opulent baroque church.</span> <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V9TjAERhaDI/U9sZj4vjakI/AAAAAAAAJbw/BwNMDg3eh18/s1600/CIMG2097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V9TjAERhaDI/U9sZj4vjakI/AAAAAAAAJbw/BwNMDg3eh18/s1600/CIMG2097.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
17974 Pfeifen hat die größte Domorgel der Welt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The largest cathedral organ in the world has 17974 pipes!</span> </div>
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Im Anschluss daran machen wir uns an die letzten 150 Kilometer unserer Tour. Bis Vilshofen folgen wir der Donau, von dort aus geht es an der Vils entlang Richtung Heimat.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Afterwards, we get on with the last 150 kilometres of our tour, following the Danube river to Vilshofen and then riding along the Vils river towards home.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 90 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,13 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Landhotel Schlappinger Hof in Reisbach<br />
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<u><b>Freitag, 1. August:</b></u></div>
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Der Stadtplatz von Vilsbiburg. Wir sind wesentlich früher dran als erwartet und treffen zufällig meine Nachbarin Kati auf ihrem Weg in die Arbeit. Das fängt ja schon mal gut an!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Main square in Vilsbiburg. We are much faster than expected and bump into my neighbour Kati on her way to work. What a nice start into my "home zone"!</span> <br />
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Pfarrkirche Maria Himmelfahrt in Vilsbiburg. Ich weiß nicht, wie oft ich schon daran vorbeigefahren bin, aber heute nehm ich mir mal die Zeit hineinzugehen. Bin ja schließlich Tourist.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">I don't know how often I've driven past the Assumption church in Vilsbiburg. Today, I take the time to look inside of it, I'm a tourist after all.</span> <br />
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Überraschung Nummer zwei: Gerti ist extra aus München hierher gefahren, um uns abzufangen und in Bayern willkommen zu heißen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Surprise number two: Gerti drove here from Munich in order to catch us and welcome us in Bavaria!</span> <br />
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Alter Bahnhof in Velden. Wo früher Züge unterwegs waren, ist jetzt ein Radlweg.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Former train station in Velden. The old railroad is now a bike path.</span> </div>
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Ankunft am Marktplatz in Taufkirchen (Vils) am späten Nachmittag.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Arrival at the market sqare in Taufkirchen (Vils) in the late afternoon.</span> <br />
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Die größte Überraschung wartet hier auf uns: Eine Abordnung des Kirchenchores empfängt uns mit Plakat und einer selbst gedichteten Gesangseinlage, so dass es wirklich der ganze Ort mitkriegt. Außerdem sind noch Freunde und Verwandte von mir da, die es gar nicht erwarten können, sich in unsere verschwitzten Arme zu stürzen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The biggest surprise is waiting here for us: A delegation of the church choir welcomes us with a placard and a song they've written for us so that the whole town hears it. Also, there are some friends and family of mine who cannot wait to get an extra sweaty hug or two!</span><br />
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Beim besten Eiskaffee der Welt werden wir auch noch für einen Zeitungsartikel interviewt, und so dauert unser kurzer Einkehrschwung hier so knappe vier Stunden...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">While enjoying an icecream coffee, we get interviewed for a <a href="http://www.merkur-online.de/lokales/erding/taufkirchen/fahrrad-durch-halbe-welt-3788000.html" target="_blank">newspaper article</a>, and so what was planned as a quick stop at the café turns into a four hour layover...</span><br />
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... bevor wir uns auf meine persönliche Hausstrecke begeben. Wie oft bin ich diesen Weg schon gefahren?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... before setting off home. How many times have I ridden / driven this way?</span> <br />
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Perfektes Timing: Auf der Zielgeraden holt uns Chris mit seinem roten Audi ein, aber wir lassen ihn trotz Mördergehupes nicht überholen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Perfect timing: Chris catches up to us right on the home straight with his red Audi, but he can honk as much as he wants - we won't let him pass!</span><br />
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Und hier ist der Hof meiner Eltern. Was für ein unbeschreibliches Gefühl!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">And this is my parents' place. What an indescribable feeling!</span> </div>
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Und weil wir vom Feiern noch nicht ganz genug haben, gibt es am Abend in unserer Jagdhütte im Wald noch ein Grillfest.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And since we're not quite done celebrating yet, there's a barbecue in our hunter's cabin in the forest.</span> <br />
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Hinten beschreibt Dave gerade sein Loch im Bauch, während sich Grillmeister Sepp vorne um die letzte Überraschung heute kümmert:<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">While Dave is describing his appetite in the background, barbecue master Sepp is preparing the last surprise for today:</span> <br />
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Ein 700 Gramm schweres T-Bone-Steak als Willkommensgruß, damit sich mein kanadischer Wahlbayer hier gleich wohlfühlt.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">A welcoming 700 gram T-bone steak, so that my imported Canadian feels good in his adopted place of residence right away</span>.</div>
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Da geht echt kein Salat mehr rein!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There's no room for salad anymore!</span> <br />
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Verdauungsmusik.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Digestive music.</span> <br />
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Schöner hätten wir uns unseren Empfang daheim nicht vorstellen können. Ein wunderbares Ende einer großartigen Radltour. Danke an alle, die sich in irgendeiner Weise daran beteiligt haben, uns schöne Grüße ausgerichtet und auf dem Blog begleitet haben, uns mit Rat und Tat weitergeholfen haben oder ein Stückchen mit uns mitgefahren sind!<span style="color: #cc0000;"> </span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We couldn't have imagined our arrival at home any more awesome. A grand finale to a grand bicycle trip. Thanks to everybody who has taken part in some way, who sent us greetings and followed us on our blog, helped us along or rode with us for a while! </span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 64,37 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 19,1 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Eigenes Bett daheim. Der Wahnsinn!</div>
Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Taufkirchen, Germany48.343889 12.13027799999997648.175031499999996 11.807554499999975 48.5127465 12.453001499999976tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-33855875551103816612014-07-30T01:31:00.000-07:002018-08-12T01:26:38.942-07:00Österreich<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Mittwoch, 23. Juli:</u></b></div>
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Von Bratislava sind es nur wenige Kilometer bis zur Grenze, und plötzlich kann ich wieder was lesen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">From Bratislava, it's only a few kilometres to the Austrian border, and suddenly I can read things again!</span></div>
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Vorbildliche Ausschilderung des Donauradwegs in Österreich. Okay, die Kilometerangaben sind nicht immer ganz korrekt, aber zumindest weiß man, in welche Richtung man fährt.<br />
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Exemplary signposting of the Danube river cycle path in Austria. I mean, sometimes the distances are a bit off but at least you always know which direction you're heading.</span> </div>
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Blick zurück nach Bratislava.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Looking back to Bratislava.</span><br />
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Im Nationalpark Donauauen fahren wir auf dem Hochwasserschutzdamm - steckerlgerade und rundrum grasgrün!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the Danube meadows National park, we ride along the dyke - straight as an arrow and nothing but green all around!</span> </div>
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Meine Schwester Babsi und ich heute mal in Zwillingsgarderobe.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, my sister Babsi and I are wearing twin outfits.</span> </div>
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Abends im Zelt spielen wir mal wieder Carcassonne. Auf Babsis flacher Thermarest geht das auch viel besser als auf unseren wurstligen Matten!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">At night, we play Carcassonne in the tent. Babsi's flat Thermarest serves as a pad way better than our uneven mats!</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 30,94 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 12,74 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: Wiese in den Donauauen</div>
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 24. Juli:</u></b></div>
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Wissenswertes über Natur und Kultur am Weg.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Interesting facts about the nature and culture along the way.</span> <br />
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So schwenken wir zum Beispiel ab zum kaiserlichen Jagdschloss Eckartsau.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Little detour to the former hunting castle of the Habsburg Emperors in Eckartsau.</span></div>
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Ganz so elegant frühstücken wir im Zelt eher selten!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Breakfast here is slightly more elegant than in our tent.</span><br />
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Im Treppenhaus.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the stairwell.</span> <br />
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Fotoausstellung: Thronfolger Franz Ferdinand mit Kaiser Wilhelm II. von Deutschland während einer Jagdpause in den Donauauen, 1908.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Picture exhibition: Austrian heir to the throne Franz Ferdinand and German Emperor Wilhelm II. taking a break from hunting in the Danube meadows in 1908.</span></div>
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Schlosskapelle</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Chapel in the castle.</span> </div>
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Weiter geht's!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And on we go!</span> <br />
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Da meint man, so nah an der Heimat ergibt sich das mit der Sprachbarriere, und dann kommen die Österreicher mit ihren sonderbaren Kaffeevokabeln daher!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Austrian coffee vocabulary sure is different...</span> </div>
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Aber eins muss man ihnen lassen: Sie machen den besten und größten Eiskaffee weit und breit!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... but once you know what to order you won't be disappointed. Look at this icecream coffee!</span></div>
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Fünf Kugeln!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Five scoops!</span> <br />
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Nachdem wir relativ problemlos zu unserem Hotel gefunden und unser Zeug dort abgeladen haben, machen wir uns zu Fuß auf in die Innenstadt Wiens. Im Café Sacher gönnen wir uns, stilvollendet wie immer, ein Stückerl Kuchen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After finding the way to our hotel and ditching our gear there, we take a walk into Vienna's city centre. Sophisticated as we are, we treat ourselves to a piece of cake in world famous café Sacher:</span> </div>
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Gleich gegenüber ist der Starbucks, das freut den Dave.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave is happy to find a Starbucks right next door.</span><br />
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Straßenmusikanten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Street musicians.</span> <br />
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Kundgebung ukrainischer Mitbürger.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Ukrainian people demonstrating.</span> <br />
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Stephansdom.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">St. Stephen's Cathedral.</span> <br />
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Detailansichten, einfach toll.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Close-ups, truly amazing.</span> <br />
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Fiaker.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Traditional taxis, called Fiaker.</span> <br />
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Hofburg.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Hofburg Palace.</span> <br />
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Antiker Unterbau der Stadt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Antique foundations of the city.</span> <br />
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Apropos antik: Viele Geschäfte hier sind bereits weit mehr als hundert Jahre alt, wie man an den Schildern lesen kann.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Speaking of antique: Many businesses here pride themselves upon being more than one hundred years old and thus having served kings and emperors. This baker's and confectioner's shop was founded in 1847 and used to deliver pastries to the Habsburg court.</span><br />
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Diese Apotheke gibt es sogar schon seit 1551.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This farmacy has been around since 1551.</span> <br />
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Opernhaus.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Opera.</span> <br />
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Zufällig findet dieses Wochenende am Karlsplatz grad das Popfest statt, ein kostenloses Musik Openair.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We stumble upon the opening of Popfest, a free music openair festival in Vienna that happens to take place this weekend.</span> <br />
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Wir kommen grad vorbei, als die Band "Schmieds Puls" das Festival vor der Karlskirche eröffnet, da bleiben wir natürlich eine Zeit lang hängen. Es herrscht eine sehr gemütliche Stimmung.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The concerts are in front on St. Charles' church, and we really enjoy the atmosphere so we stay for a while.</span> </div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 46,93 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 14,8 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Cyrus in Wien<br />
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<u><b>Freitag, 25. Juli:</b></u><br />
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Heute steht eine Führung im Schloss Schönbrunn auf dem Programm. Innendrin darf leider nicht fotografiert werden, aber von unserem Spaziergang im Schlosspark gibt es ein paar schöne Bilder.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, we take a tour of Schönbrunn Palace. It's not allowed to take pictures inside of it but we have a couple of nice shots from our walk in the park.</span> <br />
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Im Anschluss daran schauen wir uns im Wiener Prater um.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Afterwards, we visit the Prater, a huge innercity green area with a year round amusement park and eateries.</span><br />
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Diese Sprechanlage sollte eigentlich mit einer anderen auf der anderen Seite des Platzes verbunden sein, aber irgendwie funktioniert sie nicht so ganz.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This is supposed to function as an "intercom" so that you can talk to somebody on the other side of the square. But it doesn't seem to work.</span><br />
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Calafatistatue.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Statue of Calafati.</span> <br />
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Später fressen wir uns auf dem Naschmarkt noch von einem Stand zum nächsten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">"Nibble market". Guess what we do here?</span> <br />
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In der Innenstadt liegen die meisten Modegeschäfte weit außerhalb unseres Budgets, aber Schaufenster anschaun geht natürlich immer.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The boutiques downtown are way out of our price range but window shopping is okay.</span> <br />
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Rückseite der Neuen Burg vom Burggarten aus.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Backside of the New Palace, seen from the park.</span> <br />
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Am Abend sitzen wir einfach nur gemütlich im Burggarten und beobachten Leute.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We spend the evening sitting in the park behind the Palace, watching people.</span> <br />
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<u><b>Samstag, 26. Juli:</b></u></div>
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Am Westbahnhof verabschieden wir uns von Barbara, die heute mit dem Zug wieder heimfährt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We ride to the station together and say good-bye to Barbara who takes a train home again today.</span><br />
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Sollte man unbedingt mal ausprobieren: Rolltreppe fahren mit voll beladenem Rad. Geht überraschend einfach.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Something you should try one day: Taking an escalator with a loaded bike. Surprisingly easy.</span><br />
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Gleich danach verlassen Dave und ich Wien ebenfalls. Abschlussfoto vor dem Parlamentsgebäude, das zufällig auf unserm Weg zurück zum Donauradweg liegt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After that, Dave and I also leave Vienna. Our last picture shows the parliament building which happens to be on our way back to the Danube river pathway.</span> <br />
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Bis Tulln fahren wir rechts der Donau, dann werden wir auf eine Brücke umgeleitet, weil die Uferpromenade für ein Festival gesperrt ist.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We ride to Tulln on the right bank, then have to cross a bridge because the river promenade is closed for a festival.</span> <br />
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So schaut der Radlweg von oben aus.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The bike path seen from above.</span> <br />
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Was wir (noch) nicht wissen: An dieser Stelle gibt es links der Donau überhaupt keinen Radlweg. Teer geht in Kies über, Kies in Gras und plötzlich heißt es "Radfahren verboten". Ja toll jetzt. Nach einigem Suchen landen wir wieder auf einer brauchbaren Kiesstraße, die uns zu diesem Tor führt, das glücklicherweise nicht abgeschlossen ist.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">What we don't know (yet): There is no bike path on the left bank here. Tarmac turns into gravel, gravel into grass and suddenly a sign says "no cycling". Great, thank you! After looking around for a while we find a gravel path leading up to this gate that's not locked.</span> <br />
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Wir folgen der Forststraße etwa sechs Kilometer bis zu einer Wiese, auf der wir übernachten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's a forestry road, and we follow it for about six kilometres until we find a pasture where we can camp.</span> <br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 61,4 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,44 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Wiese in den Donauauen bei Tulln<br />
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<u><b>Sonntag, 27. Juli:</b></u><br />
Nicht wissend, ob uns die Forststraße irgendwann mal wieder zurück in die Zivilisation führt oder ob wir den ganzen Schlauch wieder retour fahren müssen, brechen wir am Morgen auf und fahren weiter durch den Wald. Wir kommen in einem kleinen Dorf raus, wo wir uns schließlich bis zur Schleuse in Altenwöhrth durchfragen können.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We still have no clue if the forestry road will bring us back to civilization or if we have to ride back, but we follow it anyway. It eventually leads to a small village where we ask people for directions and finally end up at a sluice gate in Altenwörth.</span><br />
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Zwei Kreuzfahrtschiffe werden gerade in der Schleuse abgesenkt, als wir dort hinkommen. Gleich danach geht der Donauradweg wieder auf beiden Seiten weiter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When we get there, there are two cruise ships in the sluice being lowered down. After the sluice, the bike path continues on both sides of the Danube river again.</span> <br />
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Nicht nur die Beschilderung der Radwege ist in Österreich hervorragend. Es gibt eine allumfassende Infrastruktur hier, die von solchen Schlauchautomaten über Brotzeitbankerl und Abfalleimer bis hin zu auf Radfahrer spezialisierte Übernachtungsmöglichkeiten keinen Wunsch offen lässt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Not only the signposting of the bike paths is outstanding in Austria. There's a whole infrastructure for cyclists here like this tube dispenser, picnic benches, garbage cans and accommodations specializing in bike tourers.</span> <br />
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Nach dem Mittagessen in Krems (Marillenknödl. Mmmh!) ist es vorbei mit unserer wochenlangen Berg-und-Tal-Losigkeit: In der Wachau geht es munter auf und ab durch uralte Städtchen und die dazugehörigen Weinberge und Aprikosengärten (jaa, tschuldigung, Marillen halt). Mensch, ist das schön hier!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After a nice lunch in Krems (Apricot dumplings. To die for.), the weeks of flat riding are over. In the Wachau area, we roll up and down through old towns and their vineyards and apricot gardens, and we just love the views. It's so beautiful here!</span><br />
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In Melk machen wir direkt unterhalb des wunderschönen Barockklosters Brotzeit, danach fahren wir weiter nach Ybbs, wo wir nahe der Mündung der Ybbs in die Donau in einer Art Naturstadtpark übernachten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We have dinner in Melk, right underneath the stunning barock monastery, before riding to Ybbs where we camp in a natural city park at the confluence of Ybbs and Danube.</span> <br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 112,68 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,02 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Park in Ybbs an der Donau<br />
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<u><b>Montag, 28. Juli:</b></u><br />
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Die einzige, die unser Lager entdeckt, ist Magdalena aus dem fernen Osten Österreichs. Sie ist mit dem Fahrrad unterwegs nach Portugal und beschließt spontan, uns ein Stückchen zu begleiten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Magdalena is the only person who discovers our camp spot. She's riding from Austria to Portugal and joins us for today.</span> <br />
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Vor dem Fahrradmuseum in Ybbs.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In front of the bicycle museum in Ybbs.</span><br />
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Das war ja klar! Der erste Skatepark ohne Zaun, und schon ist er drin, der Dave mitsamt seinem Anhänger.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Of course! The first skate park without a fence around, and before I know it Dave is right in there with his trailer.</span> <br />
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Aber so richtig blöd schaun wir erst, als dieses kleine Mädchen in der Betonschüssel rumsaust wie ein pink-gelber Blitz.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">But he's still not quite as spectacular as this little girl shooting around in the bowl like a pink-yellow lightning.</span> <br />
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Das Mostviertel ist wieder total flach, und alle paarhundert Meter könnten wir uns einen Birnenmost genehmigen. Kurz nach St. Pantaleon treffen wir wieder auf die Donau und gleichzeitig auf eine Gewitterfront. Zunächst sitzen wir das Schlimmste unter einem winzigen Dach aus, dann suchen wir uns im Wald einen Zeltplatz.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We are in an area now that's famous for pear juice and pear cider, the Mostviertel. Just after St. Pantaleon, we get back to the Danube again and have to stop under a tiny roof to wait for a thundershower to go by. After that, we look for camping in a forest.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 63,56 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: in einem Wald bei Albing<br />
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<u><b>Dienstag, 29. Juli:</b></u><br />
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Pfui Deife! Blick von meiner Schlafmatte aus zu einem Eck unseres Zeltes am Morgen. Aus dem gemütlichen Frühstück in Mauthausen mit Magdalena wird erst mal nichts, denn in der Nacht sind HUNDERTE Schnecken auf die glorreiche Idee gekommen, auf und unter unseren Zelten spazieren zu gehen und dabei nicht nur großzügig Schleim zu hinterlassen, sondern auch schamlos überall hinzukacken.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Ugh, yuck! View from my sleeping mat into the corner of our tent in the morning. We have to cancel the nice breakfast with Magdalena in Mauthausen because HUNDREDS of slugs and snails have decided to take a walk on and under our tents during the night, leaving not only a generous amount of slime on the fabric but also shamelessly crapping everywhere.</span><br />
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Den ganzen Vormittag verbringen wir damit, die Zelte und Planen einigermaßen sauber zu kriegen und verbrauchen dabei unsere letzten Wasservorräte und zwei Rollen Klopapier und verdrecken ein Geschirrtuch bis zur Unkenntlichkeit. Eine greislige Arbeit, echt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We spend hours cleaning our tents and tarps, using up all the water supplies and two rolls of toilet paper, and ruining a dish towel. Disgusting, really!</span><br />
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Als wir endlich in Mauthausen ankommen, haben alle Kohldampf! Bei einem schönen Mittagessen verabschieden wir uns von Magdalena, nicht ohne immer wieder auf Schnecken zu sprechen zu kommen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We are starving when we finally reach Mauthausen! During lunch, we constantly speak about slugs and snails. Afterwards, we say goodbye to Magdalena.</span><br />
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Bei Ottensheim geht es mit der Fähre wieder auf die rechte Donauseite. Wir dürfen ins Kapitänshaus raufgehen und bekommen erklärt, was sich seit der Flut 2013 alles verändert hat. Dave und ich geben heute ganz schön Gas um möglichst nah an Passau heranzukommen. Es wird ziemlich spät und wir wollen unbedingt duschen, darum fahren wir heute mal auf einen "richtigen" Campingplatz.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There's a ferry bringing us back to the right bank from Ottensheim, and we get to visit the captain in his cabin. Also, they explain to us what has changed since the big flood last year. Dave and I want to get as close to Passau as possible today so we really press the pedal to the metal today. It gets quite late and we need a shower so we go to a "real" campground for once.</span> <br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 84 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 19 km/h </div>
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Nachtlager: Campingplatz in Haibach </div>
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<u><b>Mittwoch, 30. Juli:</b></u><br />
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Blick auf Engelhartszell, wo wir in einer Bäckerei frühstücken, bevor sie von zwanzig holländischen Radlfahrern überfallen wird.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This is Engelhartszell where we have breakfast in a bakery before like twenty Dutch cyclists invade the place.</span><br />
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Und dann ist es nicht mehr weit bis zur Grenze. Deutschland hat uns wieder!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And then it's only a short ride to the border. Germany has us back!</span> <br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 44,32 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 15,94 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Zeltplatz an der Ilz in Passau<br />
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Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Vienna, Austria48.2081743 16.3738189000000647.8696338 15.728371900000059 48.546714800000004 17.019265900000061tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-1265727417613909012014-07-23T16:34:00.000-07:002014-07-24T16:34:47.323-07:00Slowakei<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Dienstag, 22. Juli:</u></b></div>
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Bei schönstem Radlwetter erreichen wir unerwartet schnell die Grenze zwischen Ungarn und der Slowakei.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's the perfect weather for cycling, and we arrive at the Hungarian-Slovakian border earlier than expected.</span></div>
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Willkommen in Bratislava!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Welcome to Bratislava!</span><br />
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Nach einer längeren und verregneten Odyssee durch die Stadt auf der Suche nach einer erschwinglichen Unterkunft werden wir mitten im Stadtzentrum fündig. Schade, dass wir nur eine Nacht hierbleiben!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">After a longish and rainy odyssey through town in search of an affordable accommodation, we find something right downtown. Too bad we are only staying for one night!</span></div>
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Das alte Rathaus am Hauptplatz.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The old town hall in the main square.</span><br />
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Wohlverdientes Abendessen nach Barbaras längstem Radltag.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Well-deserved dinner after my sister Barbara's longest day on a bike ever.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 94,85 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,74 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Old Town Hotel in Bratislava<br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 23. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Das alte Rathaus bei Tageslicht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The old town hall at daylight.</span><br />
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Wohin sollen wir als nächstes?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Where to next?</span><br />
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Martinsdom.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">St Martin's Cathedral.</span><br />
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Burg Bratislava.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Bratislava castle.</span><br />
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Aussicht vom Burgberg auf die Donau und die Stadt Bratislava.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View from the castle hill on the Danube river and Bratislava.</span><br />
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Auf der Brücke des Slowakischen Nationalaufstandes.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On the Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising.</span><br />
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Schon wenige Kilometer später überqueren wir die Grenze zu Österreich, doch beim Blick zurück sehen wir noch lange die Plattenbauten (links) und die Burg Bratislavas (rechts).</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">After only a few kilometres we cross the border to Austria, but looking back, we can still see Bratislava for a long time.</span></div>
<br />Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Bratislava, Slovakia48.1458923 17.10713729999997747.8067913 16.461690299999976 48.4849933 17.752584299999977tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-53461599928561798982014-07-22T15:37:00.000-07:002014-07-24T16:01:00.504-07:00Ungarn<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Donnerstag, 10. Juli:</u></b></div>
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Üdvözöljük Magyarország! In Rumänien hatten wir zwei Wochen lang das Gefühl, was lesen zu können - damit ist es jetzt wieder vorbei, auch wenn die Buchstaben bekannt ausschauen. Trotzdem: Willkommen in Ungarn, wir sind sehr gespannt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Üdvözöljük Magyarország! In Romania, we had the feeling to be able to read things for two weeks - that's over now, even though the alphabet looks familiar. Still: Welcome to Hungary, we are very curious!</span></div>
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Allererster Eindruck: ein nagelneuer Radlweg. So kann's gern weitergehen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our very first impression: a brand new bicycle path. We could get used to that!</span></div>
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Viele Ortsnamen kennt man aus dem Kochbuch.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Some of the towns' names you know from your cook book.</span><br />
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Nix mehr Eselkarren, hier wird mit großem Gerät landgewirtschaftet.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">No more donkey carts. Farmers here work with modern technology.</span><br />
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In den Ortschaften wimmelt es nur so von Radfahrern. Hier parken wir mit etwa 30-35 anderen Drahteseln vor einem Supermarkt. Weiterhin fällt uns auf, wie sauber und ordentlich die Leute ihre Grundstücke halten: Überall sehen wir Baum entastende, Rasen mähende, Zaun streichende, Müll entsorgende, Einfahrt pflasternde und Gehsteig kehrende Bürger.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There are cyclists everywhere in the towns. We are parking in front of a supermarket here with about 30-35 other bikes. Other than that, we notice how clean and tidy people keep their properties: Every couple of metres, you see somebody pruning a tree, mowing the lawn, painting a fence, taking the garbage to the recycling station, tiling the driveway or sweeping the sidewalk.</span></div>
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Wir sind Millionäre! So auswendig hab ich überhaupt keine Ahnung, wie viel Geld ich abheben soll, deshalb frage ich in der Bank erst mal nach dem Wechselkurs, um ein Gefühl für ungarische Forint zu bekommen: 300 HUF = 1 Euro.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We are millionaires! I have no clue just off the top of my head how much cash to take out, so I ask for the exchange rate in a bank in order to get a feeling for Hungarian Forints: 210 HUF = 1 CAD.</span></div>
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Der vom Wetterbericht vorausgesagte Gewittersturm bleibt aus, und da Ungarn so flach anfängt wie Rumänien aufgehört hat, kommen wir wunderbar voran.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The weather forecast looked pretty grimy for this afternoon, but the thunderstorm goes elsewhere. And as Hungary starts as flat as Romania ended, we make really good progress.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 103,95 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 19,31 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: auf einer Wiese bei Kunmadaras</div>
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<b><u>Freitag, 11. Juli:</u></b></div>
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In der Nacht hat es angefangen zu regnen, und es reißt den ganzen Tag nicht ab. So kommt die ganze Bandbreite unserer Unterhaltungsausrüstung zum Einsatz:<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">During the night, it started to rain and it won't stop all day. Our whole selection of entertainment items gets used today:</span></div>
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<b><u>Samstag, 12. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Am Morgen regnet es immer noch leicht, aber wir haben Hunger. Und außer Nudeln und Carbonarasoße nix mehr dabei… Bald verdünnisieren sich die Wolken auch, und wieder kommen wir richtig gut vorwärts.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the morning, it's still raining, but we are hungry. And there's nothing left except for pasta carbonara… We start riding, and soon the clouds become thinner and thinner so that we make good progress.</span></div>
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Überquerung der Theiß bei Tiszaroff.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Crossing the Tisza river near Tiszaroff.</span><br />
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Brotzeit. Da wir hauptsächlich auf Nebenstraßen unterwegs sind, haben wir genug Proviant für zwei Tage dabei.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Snack time. As we're mainly riding on rural roads, we've got enough food for two days on us.</span></div>
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In Jászberény machen wir Kaffeepause und legen derweil unser waschelnasses Zelt zum Trocknen auf den Marktplatz.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">During our coffee break in Jászberény, we lay out our soaked tent in the market square to dry.</span></div>
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Geil, oder?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Awesome, eh?</span><br />
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Die Landschaft ist flach, aber abwechslungsreich und irgendwie fröhlich.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The landscape is flat but varied and somehow cheerful.</span><br />
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Am Abend biegen wir in einen Wald ein, um nach einem geeigneten Zeltplatz zu suchen. Wir werden fündig, und zwar ausgerechnet neben einer kleinen, aber feinen Marihuanaplantage.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the evening, we turn into a forest to look for camping. We find a good spot - in a small marijuana grove. </span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 117,23 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 19,18 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: in einem Wald bei Tóalmás</div>
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<b><u>Sonntag, 13. Juli:</u></b> </div>
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Heiß ist es heute! In der Hoffnung auf eine fruchtige Erfrischung ähnlich dem rumänischen "Bergenbier fresh Lemon / Grapefruit", das mit seinen radltauglichen 1,9 % Alkohol eine willkommene Abwechslung zu Cola und Limo war, bestellen wir die ungarische Variante davon. Aber so ganz begeistert sind wir jetzt nicht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's hot today! In Romania, we discovered "Bergenbier fresh Lemon / Grapefruit" which we found was a perfect refreshment for cycling because it's less sweet than coke and only contains 1.9 % alcohol. So we order the Hungarian version of it but we're no quite as impressed.</span></div>
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Um drei erreichen wir Budapest, und um sieben (!) finden wir endlich eine einigermaßen vernünftige Unterkunft. Aus irgendeinem Grund haben in dieser Stadt ausschließlich Nobelhotels das Bedürfnis, ihren Namen nebst Zweck der Einrichtung auf einem der Straße zugewandten Schild kundzutun. Einfachere Pensionen und Hostels findet man nur, wenn man die genaue Adresse weiß und dann auf dem Klingelbrett den Namen unter dutzenden privater Haushalte raussucht. Was das soll?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At three, we arrive in Budapest. At seven (!), we finally find a reasonably okay accommodation. For some reason, in this city only the luxury hotels feel like posting their name and purpose on a sign that's facing the street. Cheaper guesthouses and hostels are found only if you know the exact address and then look for their name on the house-bell nameplate amongst dozens of private households. Why?</span></div>
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Das WM-Endspiel gegen Argentinien entschädigt uns für den frustrierenden Nachmittag: Deutschland ist Weltmeister!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The final match of the soccer world cup, Germany vs. Argentina, makes up for the frustrating afternoon: Germany is "Weltmeister"!</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 66,1 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 14,9 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: ***Galilei Inn Hotel in Budapest (nicht empfehlenswert)<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 14. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Im Internet haben wir ein Hostel für die nächsten Tage gebucht. Der Auszug aus unserem Hotelzimmer erfolgt durch das Fenster direkt auf den Gehsteig, weil uns der Weg durch den vollgestellten Gang, die Treppe runter in den Innenhof und wieder rauf in den nächsten Gang, durch zwei Schwingtüren und nochmal eine Treppe runter zu blöd ist. Ihr hättet die Blicke der Leute auf der Straße sehen sollen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We booked a hostel online for the next few days, so we move out of the hotel today. Through the window directly onto the sidewalk, because the way down the crowded hallway, down a staircase to the inner courtyard, up the stairs into the next hallway, through two saloon doors and down another staircase is just too annoying. You should have seen how some people in the street looked at us!</span></div>
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So. Und nachdem wir unsere sieben Zwetschgen im Hostel untergebracht haben, können wir nun endlich die Stadt Budapest erkunden. Viele mächtige und historisch bedeutsame Brücken führen über die Donau.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Alright. And after dumping all our gear in the hostel we can finally explore Budapest. There are many mighty and historically important bridges going across the Danube river.</span></div>
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Auf der Freiheitsbrücke.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On the liberty bridge.</span></div>
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Budapest liegt auf einer geotektonischen Bruchstelle. Das haben zwar die guten alten Römer im 1. Jh. noch nicht so genau gewusst, aber sie haben viele Thermalquellen gefunden und lauter schöne Bäder gebaut.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Budapest lies on a geotectonic break. The old Romans weren't quite aware of that in the first century but they found a lot of hot springs in the area and built all these beautiful spas.</span></div>
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Wir bekommen leider nur die Eingangshalle zu Gesicht und erhaschen einen kurzen Blick in eines der Thermalbecken, als die Tür aufgeht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We only get to see the entrance hall and a quick glimpse into one of the pools when somebody opens the door.</span></div>
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Sissi-Statue.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Queen Elisabeth, wife of Habsburg emperor Franz Joseph, called "Sissi".</span><br />
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Buda Schloss.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Buda castle.</span><br />
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Kleiner, aber feiner Übersetzungsfehler: Delikatessenladen mit der Überschrift "Reizwäsche".<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">I guess there just wasn't enough space for the "sen" anymore…</span><br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 15. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Heute verbringen Dave und ich den ganzen Tag "zu Hause", also im Hostel. So eine gut ausgestattete Küche macht Lust auf Kochen, drum lade ich unsere Mitbewohner Ben, Kaori, Angela und Sebastian auf ein Riesenblech Lasagne ein. Die andern steuern Bier und Eis bei, und so wird es ein langer und lustiger Abend…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, Dave and I spend all day "at home" in the hostel. There's a really well equipped kitchen here that I'm itching to use so I invite our housemates Ben, Kaori, Angela and Sebastian for a giant dish of Lasagna. The others contribute beer and ice cream, and it turns into a long and fun evening...</span><br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 16. Juli:</u></b> </div>
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Auch heute genießen wir es, "zu Hause" rumzusitzen, ohne groß was zu unternehmen. Am Abend fahren wir zum Bahnhof…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We mostly sit around "at home" again without doing much. In the evening, we ride to the train station...</span><br />
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… um meine Schwester Barbara abzuholen, die uns spontan auf unserer Tour besucht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">… to pick up my sister Barbara who joins us on our trip spontaneously.</span><br />
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Dave transportiert ihr Gepäck auf dem Anhänger.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave transporting her luggage on his trailer.</span><br />
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Auf dem Heimweg vom Bahnhof betrachten wir Budapest zum ersten Mal bei Nacht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On our way home from the station, we get to see Budapest at night for the first time.</span><br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 17. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Einkaufen am Morgen in der großen Markthalle.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Shopping in the big market hall in the morning.</span><br />
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Am Nachmittag gehen wir zu dritt in der Stadt spazieren. Hier das prachtvolle Opernhaus von Budapest.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the afternoon, the three of us walk around in town. Here is the magnificent opera.</span><br />
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Barbara macht Bekanntschaft mit dem "Mozart von Ungarn", Franz Liszt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Barbara meets the "Hungarian Mozart", Franz Liszt.</span><br />
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Im Foyer des Opernhauses.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Foyer of the opera.</span><br />
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Später drängt sich alles unter irgendwelche Vordächer und dichte Bäume, um Schutz vor dem Regen zu suchen…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Some time later, everybody tries to find shelter underneath some canopies or dense trees because it starts raining...</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uyj9U71kVII/U8oWbIg8PrI/AAAAAAAAJBw/6XnSBDCMTn4/s1600/the-monst-common-view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uyj9U71kVII/U8oWbIg8PrI/AAAAAAAAJBw/6XnSBDCMTn4/s1600/the-monst-common-view.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/01/86/a7/4f/the-monst-common-view.jpg</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Das Haus des Terrors, das an die beiden Terrorregimes Ungarns im 20. Jahrhundert erinnert.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The house of terror which reminds people of the two terror regimes in Hungary during the 20th century.</span><br />
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Blick hinauf zum Vordach des Hauses des Terrors, das bei Sonnenschein das Wort "TERROR" auf den Gehsteig projiziert.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The canopy of the house of terror projects the word "TERROR" onto the sidewalk when the sun is shining.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lgsF5ydxbWA/U8mYjOc9ikI/AAAAAAAAI8k/UhZN5dvGwrY/s1600/CIMG1877.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lgsF5ydxbWA/U8mYjOc9ikI/AAAAAAAAI8k/UhZN5dvGwrY/s1600/CIMG1877.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
So ganz nebenbei klappern wir auch ein paar Fahrradläden ab…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">By the way, we also look into several bike shops...</span><br />
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Heldenplatz.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Heroes' square.</span><br />
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Die größte Sanduhr der Welt. Es dauert exakt ein Jahr, bis der Sand einmal durchläuft.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Biggest hourglass in the world. It takes exactly one year for the sand to run through once.</span><br />
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Treffer! Babsi findet tatsächlich ein passendes Rad - jetzt gibt es kein Zurück mehr: Sie wird uns bis nach Wien begleiten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Hit! Babsi finds a suitable bike - now there's no way back: She will accompany us until Vienna.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LKlSQj8k_3Q/U8oQf7BaZlI/AAAAAAAAJAk/Jm5DmRc19fo/s1600/CIMG8696.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LKlSQj8k_3Q/U8oQf7BaZlI/AAAAAAAAJAk/Jm5DmRc19fo/s1600/CIMG8696.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Das muss gefeiert werden, und zwar in einem urgemütlichen ungarischen Lokal!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We celebrate the successful afternoon in a typical Hungarian restaurant!</span><br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 18. Juli: </u></b><br />
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Babsi dreht die ersten Runden auf ihrem nagelneuen Rad.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Babsi's first few rounds on her brand new bike.</span><br />
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Danach fahren wir auf einen Aussichtshügel westlich der Donau, also in Buda, und genießen das Panorama.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Afterwards, we ride to a viewpoint on top of a hill in Buda, the western part of Budapest, and enjoy the view.</span><br />
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Freiheitsstatue.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Statue of Liberty.</span><br />
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Der Weg hinauf zum Schloss ist eher für Fußgänger ausgelegt…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The path up to the castle is meant for pedestrians...</span><br />
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… aber die Mühe lohnt sich, wie man sieht!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">… but it's worth the effort as you can see!</span><br />
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Nationalgarde vor dem Präsidentenpalast.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">National guard in front of the president's palace.</span><br />
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Matthiaskirche.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Matthias church.</span><br />
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Wahnsinn, oder?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Incredible, eh?</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dufOAbar7O4/U8mYoHDdhWI/AAAAAAAAI90/GXgBlwV7k0A/s1600/CIMG1897.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dufOAbar7O4/U8mYoHDdhWI/AAAAAAAAI90/GXgBlwV7k0A/s1600/CIMG1897.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Fischerbastion.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Fishermen's bastion.</span><br />
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Blick auf das Parlamentsgebäude am anderen Ufer der Donau, also in Pest.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View of the parliament building on the eastern side of the Danube river, Pest.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LdVCCjL4Wso/U8mYoszsS0I/AAAAAAAAI-E/AVZrK0YQ4Sk/s1600/CIMG1900.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LdVCCjL4Wso/U8mYoszsS0I/AAAAAAAAI-E/AVZrK0YQ4Sk/s1600/CIMG1900.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Blick die Donau hinauf Richtung Heimat…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Looking upriver towards home...</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OeSN0kMN0F8/U8mYpsCorhI/AAAAAAAAI-Q/1lChUYQ0DFg/s1600/CIMG1899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OeSN0kMN0F8/U8mYpsCorhI/AAAAAAAAI-Q/1lChUYQ0DFg/s1600/CIMG1899.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
… und runter Richtung Schwarzes Meer.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">… and downriver towards Black Sea.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sy81kPbPEOQ/U89LQ8vbx8I/AAAAAAAAJEI/h9_bhmQgwrY/s1600/CIMG8731.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sy81kPbPEOQ/U89LQ8vbx8I/AAAAAAAAJEI/h9_bhmQgwrY/s1600/CIMG8731.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Parlamentsgebäude.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Parliament building.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mC-8Ygb4sgo/U8mYpDPKGOI/AAAAAAAAI98/8VNocXAbdNU/s1600/CIMG1902.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mC-8Ygb4sgo/U8mYpDPKGOI/AAAAAAAAI98/8VNocXAbdNU/s1600/CIMG1902.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Im jüdischen Viertel von Budapest steht die größte Synagoge Europas.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the Jewish quarter of Budapest, there is the biggest synagogue of Europe.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pszxLdcE4b8/U8mYp4-9uTI/AAAAAAAAI-I/YexjGFX0ryk/s1600/CIMG1904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pszxLdcE4b8/U8mYp4-9uTI/AAAAAAAAI-I/YexjGFX0ryk/s1600/CIMG1904.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Wir belassen es bei der Außenansicht, weil uns der Eintritt zu teuer und die Sicherheitskontrolle zu blöd ist.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We only look at it from outside because we find the entrance fee too steep and the security control too annoying.</span></div>
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Dafür beenden wir unseren Stadtrundgang mit einer Himbeerlimonade und gehen "heim" zum Kochen: Heute gibt's Gulasch!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Instead, we finish off our city tour with a raspberry lemonade and go "home" to cook dinner: We'll make goulash tonight!</span><br />
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Für einen ersten Versuch ganz ohne Rezept nicht schlecht. Wie man sieht, ist gut was gegessen worden!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Not too bad for a first try without any recipe, we ate most of it right away!</span><br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 19. Juli:</u></b><br />
Unser Jubiläumstag: Vor genau einem Jahr sind wir in Calgary losgefahren Richtung Norden!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our anniversary: Exactly one year ago, Dave and I left Calgary and drove north!</span><br />
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Frühstück im Hostel, danach wird's ernst:</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Breakfast in the hostel, then we get down to business:</span></div>
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Wir verabschieden uns von Budapest…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We say good-bye to Budapest...</span><br />
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… und folgen dem EV 6, also dem Donauradweg, Richtung Heimat. Also zumindest versuchen wir es, doch die Beschilderung ist dermaßen schlecht, dass wir uns bereits in Budapest ein paarmal verfahren, ständig Leute fragen müssen und unterwegs zweimal im Internet nachschauen müssen, ob wir überhaupt noch richtig sind.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">… and follow the EV 6, the Danube river bicycle path, towards Germany. At least, we try to, but the signposting is really poor so that we already get lost within Budapest a couple of times, have to ask for directions constantly and need to check twice online if we're still on the right track at all.</span><br />
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Richtig genervt sind wir, als wir auf der Homepage der von der EU mitfinanzierten "EuroVelo Routes" nach detaillierten Landkarten suchen und feststellen, dass die nur in Papierform und gegen Bares erhältlich sind.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When we search for detailed maps on the "EuroVelo Routes" homepage (co-financed by the EU!) and find out that they are only available in paper form and for cash, we get really annoyed.</span><br />
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Letztendlich folgen wir einfach der Nationalstraße und fahren nur dann auf dem Radweg, wenn dieser direkt daneben hergeht.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">At the end of the day, we simply follow the national road and only use the bike path when it's directly next to the highway.</span></div>
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Kurz vor Sonnenuntergang finden wir ein gemütliches Fleckchen direkt an der Donau.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Just before sunset, we find a pleasant spot right next to the river.</span><br />
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Nachdem das Zelt aufgebaut ist, gönnen wir uns ein erfrischendes Arm- und Beinbad! In der Nacht bekommen wir Besuch von einer Wildsau, aber wir können sie mit Topfgeklapper verscheuchen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After setting up the tent, we treat ourselves to a refreshing arm- and leg bath! In the night, a wild boar visits us but we manage to scare it away by clattering with our pots.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 61,90 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 14,59 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: in einem Wald an der Donau bei Visegrád<br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 20. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Die Dame von der Touristeninformation rät uns, mit der Fähre ans andere Ufer zu fahren, und tatsächlich: Dort ist der Radweg wesentlich übersichtlicher und besser ausgebaut. Allerdings nur zehn Kilometer lang, dann müssen wir mit der nächsten Fähre wieder zurück auf die andere Seite. Toll. Kostet jedes Mal 8 Euro.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The lady in the tourist information suggests for us to take the ferry to the other side, and really: The bike path over there is way more clearly signposted and in better shape. But only for ten kilometres, then we have to take the next ferry back across the river. Fantastic. Costs us 8 Euros each time (12 CAD).</span><br />
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Wir treffen Mark aus England, der uns spontan auf ein Eis einlädt, um unser einjähriges Reisejubiläum zu feiern. Außerdem hat er die Donauradwegkarte und lässt uns da mal reinschaun…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We meet Mark from England who treats us to an ice cream to celebrate our travelling anniversary. On top of that, he's got the official map of the Danube river pathway and lets us peek into it...</span><br />
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Wieder entdecken wir einen idyllischen Platz zum Campen, diesmal sogar mit Tisch und Bänken! Babsi: "Ui schau, der Sonnenuntergang." - Uschi: "Des is doch Standard. Aber schau, a Tisch und a Bank! Cool!" - Babsi: "Also, da wo i wohn, is des Standard."<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We discover another idyllic place to camp, this time even with a picnic bench! Babsi: "Wow look, the sunset." - Uschi: "That's standard. But look, a picnic bench! Cool!" - Babsi: "You know, that's standard where I come from."</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 59,35 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Wiese an der Donau bei Süttö<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 21. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Morgenstimmung in unserem Lager.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Morning in our camp.</span><br />
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Frühstück.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Breakfast.</span><br />
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Sonnencreme.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sunscreen lotion.</span><br />
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Dann geht's los!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And go!</span><br />
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Heute ist alles dabei: Highway, Radlweg, sandige und batzige Feldstraße. Nur kein Fluss.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, we encounter everything from a big highway and an actual bike path to sandy and muddy farm roads. But no river.</span></div>
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Es ist zwar kein anstrengender Tag, aber so richtig vom Hocker reißt uns dieser Abschnitt des Donauradwegs nicht, vor allem, weil wir den ganzen Tag irgendwo weit entfernt von der Donau sind. Dafür finden wir heute ausnahmsweise mal (fast) alle Schilder auf Anhieb…</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's not a challenging day but this leg of the Danube river bike path doesn't bowl us over either, especially because we are nowhere close to the Danube all day. On the other hand, we find (nearly) all the signs right away...</span></div>
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Brotzeit in Böny.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Break time in Böny.</span><br />
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Kurz darauf stimmen 66% der Teilnehmer unserer Gruppe für einen frühen Feierabend, und wir finden eine Wiese an der Straße.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Shortly afterward, 66% of the participants of our group vote for an early evening, and we find a grass field next to the road.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 62,76 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 15,6 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Wiese an der Straße bei Örkénypuszta<br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 22. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Kaffeepause am Stadtplatz von Györ.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Coffee break in the central plaza of Györ.</span><br />
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Wieder so eine Kinderspielplatz / Springbrunnen-Kombination. Herrlich zum Zuschauen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">They've also got this playground / fountain combination. We could watch the children forever!</span><br />
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Brotzeit am Ortsausgang von Györ. Dazu muss schon mal eine Bushaltestelle herhalten.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lunch break just before leaving Györ at a bus stop.</span></div>
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Und gleich noch ein Jubiläum!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And another milestone. The big one!!</span><br />
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Zur Feier des Tages bekommen unsere Räder ein Schaumbad, selbst wenn bereits dicke Wolken am Himmel stehen…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We celebrate it by treating our bikes to a bubble bath, even though there are big clouds in the sky...</span><br />
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Mit Sonnenblumenfeldern hat uns Ungarn begrüßt, mit einem Regenwald verabschiedet es sich von uns. Schneller als erwartet erreichen wir die Grenze zur Slowakei.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Hungary greeted us with sunflower fields and says good-bye now with a rain forest. We reach the border to Slovakia way faster than expected.</span><br />
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Streckenweise schüttet es wie aus Kübeln, doch die Aussicht auf eine warme Dusche und ein schönes Abendessen treibt uns voran…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's raining cats and dogs in some parts, but the prospect of a warm shower and a nice dinner pushes us on...</span><br />
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Um etwa 20 Uhr kommen wir in Bratislava an. Was für ein verrückter Tag!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We arrive in Bratislava at around 8 pm. What a crazy day!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 94,85 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,74 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Old Town Hotel in Bratislava</div>
Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Budapest, Hungary47.497912 19.04023499999993947.154509499999996 18.394787999999938 47.8413145 19.68568199999994tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-14995424572380081922014-07-09T21:37:00.000-07:002014-07-09T22:06:28.613-07:00Rumänien<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Donnerstag, 26. Juni:</u></b></div>
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Warten auf die Fähre mit einem Motorradfahrer aus Schottland. Die Donau bildet die Grenze zwischen Bulgarien und Rumänien.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">With a motorcyclist from Scotland, we are waiting for the ferry. The Danube river is the border between Bulgaria and Romania.</span></div>
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Einen halben Kilometer noch, dann können wir endlich wieder was lesen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Half a kilometre left before we can finally read things again!</span></div>
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Auszug aus Gerds Reiseführer: Ein paar Brocken Rumänisch schaden überhaupt nicht, auch wenn man mit Spanisch, Englisch und ein bisschen Italienisch problemlos durchkommt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Excerpt from Gerd's tour guide: A few words in Romanian cannot hurt even though you get by pretty well with Spanish, English and a little Italian.</span></div>
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Wir fahren nur etwa fünf Kilometer weiter nach Bechet, wo wir uns ein Hotelzimmer nehmen um den Kuhdreck abzuwaschen (nächtliche Zeltstangenreparatur gestern mit Gerd).<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We only ride another five kilometres to Bechet where we take a hotel room in order to wash off the cow poop (tent pole repair action last night).</span></div>
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Und auf Anfrage können wir sogar unsere Wäsche waschen, wunderbar! Dass der Trockner nicht mehr funktionstüchtig ist, erfahre ich allerdings erst nach dem Abendessen, so dass wir unsere mitgebrachte Wäscheleine auspacken müssen. Natürlich wird das Zeug in der Nacht nicht trocken, und so sitzen wir unvorhergesehen den ganzen Tag in Bechet fest. Naja.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On request we can even wash our laundry, awesome! I only learn about the broken dryer after dinner so that Dave and I have to find hooks in our room for the washing line. Of course the stuff doesn't dry during the night so we're stuck in Bechet for a full day. Hmpf.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 26,72 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,23 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: Hostel in Bechet</div>
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<b><u>Samstag, 28. Juni:</u></b></div>
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Gut gemacht, Rumänien! Fahrradfreundliche Kilometersteine mit Straßennummer und korrekten Entfernungsangaben. Alle tausend Meter. Da könnten sich andere Länder mal ein Scheibchen abschneiden!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Well done, Romania! Cycling friendly kilometre post stones with highway number and correct distances. Every one thousand metres. I wish other countries would take a leaf out of this book!</span><br />
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Ab sofort geht es nur noch bergauf, denn die Donau ist der niedrigste Punkt unserer Reise, nachdem wir die Mittelmeerküste hinter uns gelassen haben. Wir fahren durch viele kleine Bauerndörfer, zwischen Mais-, Getreide- und Sonnenblumenfeldern auf einer ruhigen Landstraße dahin Richtung Caracal. Heute habe ich beim Schalten größere Probleme, deshalb setzt mir Dave an einer Tankstelle den neuen Schaltzug ein, den wir in Thessaloniki gekauft haben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">From now on, it's all uphill because since we left the Mediterranean Sea behind, the Danube river is the lowest point on our journey. We ride through many little farm villages, between corn, crops and sunflower fields on a quiet rural road towards Caracal. I have trouble with my shifting today so Dave installs the new shifter cable we bought back in Thessaloniki.</span></div>
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Auffällig sind diese silberglänzenden Blechdächer auf vielen Häusern. Ganz schlau geworden sind wir noch nicht, aber angeblich sollen sie für den guten Draht "nach oben" hilfreich sein…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We notice that many buildings have these shiny silver tin roofs. We're not quite sure yet but apparently, it has something to do with being on good terms with "above"...</span></div>
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Solche Betonzäune sind ebenfalls sehr beliebt hier. Es gibt sie in etwa sechs verschiedenen Mustern, oder aber in typischer Holzzaunlattenoptik.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Concrete fences like this one are also very popular around here. There are about six different styles plus one that looks like wooden stakes.</span></div>
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In Caracal laufen wir Gabriel in die Arme, einem Warmshowers-Gastgeber, der eigentlich in einer anderen Stadt wohnt, aber das Wochenende hier bei seiner Mutter verbringt. Er nimmt uns spontan mit zu deren Häuschen am Stadtrand, wo wir im riesigen Gemüsegarten gerade genug Platz für unser Innenzelt finden. Von diesem Baum hier…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In Caracal, we bump into Gabriel, a Warmshowers host who usually lives in another town but spends the weekend here at his Mom's place. He spontaneously takes us to her house at the edge of town where we find just enough room for our tent in the huge vegetable garden. From this tree...</span></div>
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… gibt es eingemachte Leckereien in Hülle und Fülle, außerdem erzählt uns Gabriel viel über die Geschichte und die Kultur seines Landes, seine Reisepläne und das Leben im Allgemeinen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">… we are fed home-made comp</span><span style="color: #cc0000; font-size: small;">ô</span><span style="color: #cc0000;">te and bottled sour cherries galore, and Gabriel tells us many interesting facts about the history and culture of his country, his travel plans and life in general.</span></div>
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Am Abend zeigt er uns seine Stadt per Fahrrad. Hier ist zum Beispiel das Nationaltheater…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the evening, he shows us around his town by bike. Here is the National theatre for example...</span><br />
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… und hier einer der vielen Stadtparks.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">… and here one of the city parks.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 61 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,5 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: bei Gabriel und Elena in Caracal (Warmshowers XII.)</div>
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<b><u>Sonntag, 29. Juni:</u></b></div>
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Abschied von Elena am Vormittag. Gabriel begleitet uns nochmal in die Stadt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Saying good-bye to Elena in the morning. Gabriel accompanies us into town again today.</span></div>
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Zunächst suchen wir uns ein schattiges Plätzchen, wo Dave seinen mittlerweile dritten (!) Hinterreifen montiert. Ich will ja nicht lästern, aber entweder ist die Qualität von Schwalbe Marathon nicht mehr das, was sie einmal war - oder wir haben jetzt schon zweimal Pech damit gehabt. Normalerweise sollten die Dinger 10 000 Kilometer halten, teuer genug wären sie auf jeden Fall…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">First, we look for a place in the shade where Dave puts on his third (!) back tire now. I don't want to grumble but it's either that the quality of Schwalbe Marathon is not as it used to be, or we've had bad luck with it twice now. These things are advertised to hold for 10,000 kilometres - they are expensive enough in any case...</span></div>
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Wieder einmal erweist sich Gabriel als große Hilfe, indem er mich in der Zwischenzeit zum Supermarkt führt und danach ein paar neugierige Zigeunerkinder in Schach hält. Am späten Nachmittag fahren wir gemeinsam zum Bahnhof, denn natürlich kommt so eine private Unterkunft niemals ohne Routenvorschläge, die unseren kompletten Reiseplan auf wunderbare Weise durcheinanderbringen: Gabriels Lieblingsort in Rumänien ist die mittelalterliche Stadt Bra<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px;">ș</span>ov in Siebenbürgen. Die kürzeste Verbindung dorthin (250 km) ist eine stark befahrene zweispurige Nationalstraße ohne Seitenstreifen durch die Berge - landschaftlich zwar unwahrscheinlich schön, aber für uns zu nervig, wenn wir mit 5 km/h die Serpentinen hochstrampeln und dabei ständig von LKWs bedrängt werden.</div>
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Wir verabschieden uns also von unserem netten Gastgeber und nehmen den Zug über Bukarest nach Bra<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px;">ș</span>ov, wo wir irgendwann nach Mitternacht ankommen, die Fahrräder zusammenbauen und auf Anhieb eine Unterkunft finden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Once again, Gabriel proves himself very helpful by guiding me to the supermarket in the meantime, and by keeping some nosy children in check afterwards. In the late afternoon, we ride to the train station together, because of course a private accommodation never comes without route suggestions, which mix up our complete travel plans in this wonderful way: Gabriel's favourite place in Romania is the medieval town of Bra<span style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px;">ș</span>ov in Transylvania. The shortest road there (250 km) is a high traffic two-lane highway without any shoulder through the mountains - incredibly beautiful scenery but way to unnerving for us when we're grinding away on the switchbacks with like 5 kph while the big trucks squeeze past us constantly.</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We say good-bye to our nice host and take the train via Bucharest to Bra<span style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px;">ș</span>ov where we arrive sometime after midnight, put the bikes back together and find a guesthouse right away.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 360 km (per Zug)</div>
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Nachtlager: Pension Casa Samurai in Bra<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px;">ș</span>ov (gehört einem Japaner)</div>
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<b><u>Montag, 30. Juni:</u></b></div>
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Erkundungsspaziergang in Bra<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px;">ș</span>ov.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Orientational walk in Bra<span style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px;">ș</span>ov.</span><br />
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Diese mittelalterliche Stadt gefällt uns auf Anhieb: wunderschön restaurierte Häuser, gemütliche Parks, saubere Straßen und Gehwege, für die man keine gesonderte Versicherung braucht (hatten wir schon seit November nicht mehr!)<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We like this medieval town right away: beautifully restored buildings, inviting parks, clean roads and sidewalks that you don't need an insurance for (haven't had that since November!)</span><br />
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Krautwickerl mit gekochtem Schinken und Polenta. Mal wieder ganz was anderes, und sehr schmackhaft!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Cabbage rolls with cooked ham and polenta. Totally different cuisine once again, and very tasty!</span><br />
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Auf dem Stadtplatz gibt es Gokarts und Dreiräder zum Ausleihen. Allerdings nur für Kinder, schade.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the central square, you can rent go-carts and tricycles. Only for children though, too bad.</span><br />
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Wahrzeichen der Stadt ist die so genannte Schwarze Kirche.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Most prominent landmark in town is the so-called Black Church.</span><br />
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Kurz vor sechs Uhr stellen sich diese Männer vor dem Trompeterturm auf…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Just before six o'clock, these men post themselves in front of the trumpet tower...</span><br />
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… und drei weitere verkünden von oben herab die Uhrzeit.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">… and three more announce the time from up above.</span><br />
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Für uns beginnt damit die Stadtführung, und vom Stadtplatz aus gehen wir zunächst zur angeblich schmalsten Straße Europas.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This is when the guided city walk begins, and after the central square, our first destination is the alleged narrowest street in Europe.</span><br />
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Sie wurde gerade breit genug angelegt, dass ein Mann mit zwei Eimern durchpasst (Feuerwehr).<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It was built just wide enough for a man carrying two buckets (fire fighters).</span><br />
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Wieder einmal gibt es viele Fragen an uns Teilnehmer, und für jede richtige Antwort gibt es einen Lutscher. Dave trägt seine Trophäen stolz in der Brusttasche.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Once again, there are many questions for us participants, and every correct answer earns you a lollipop. Dave is proudly carrying his trophies in his chest pocket.</span><br />
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Katharinentor.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Catherine's Gate.</span><br />
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Nikolaikirche.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Nikolai church.</span><br />
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Dave entdeckt ein neues Talent ;-)<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave is discovering a new talent ;-)</span><br />
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Höhepunkt und Abschluss der Tour ist der Blick vom schwarzen Turm auf die Stadt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Highlight and end of the tour is the view over </span><span style="color: #cc0000;">Bra</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #cc0000; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px;">ș</span><span style="color: #cc0000;">ov </span><span style="color: #cc0000;">from the Black Tower.</span><br />
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Gruppenbild.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Group picture.</span><br />
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Auf dem Rückweg zur Pension bleiben wir noch bei diesen Straßenmusikanten hängen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On our way back to the guesthouse, we listen to these street musicians for a while.</span><br />
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Abendprogramm: Achtelfinale anschauen, Deutschland gegen Armenien.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Evening program: Watching the round of the last sixteen of the soccer world cup, Germany vs. Armenia.</span><br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 1. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Orgelkonzert in der Schwarzen Kirche.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Organ concert in the Black Church.</span><br />
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Einzigartige Bänke mit Klapplehne, so dass die Besucher der Orgelkonzerte mit dem Rücken zum Altar sitzen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">One of a kind pews with folding backs so that during the organ concerts, the audience is sitting with their backs to the altar.</span><br />
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Im Anschluss an das Orgelkonzert macht uns diese Menschenmenge vor einer Bühne auf dem Stadtplatz neugierig.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After the concert, we are drawn into this crowd in front of a stage on the central square.</span><br />
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Wir verstehen zwar nichts von der Ansage aus dem Lautsprecher, aber plötzlich zünden die Leute rund um uns herum Lampions an und lassen sie in den Abendhimmel steigen…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We don't understand the announcement over the loudspeakers but suddenly, the people all around us are lighting Chinese lanterns and let them rise into the evening sky...</span><br />
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Ein toller Anblick und schöner Abschluss des Tages!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">A great picture and a beautiful end of the day!</span><br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 2. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Als Besucher in Siebenbürgen kommt man um diesen Herrn nicht herum, selbst wenn dieser eigentlich aus der Walachei stammt: Vlad III. Dr<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px; text-align: start;">ă</span>culea, dessen unbarmherziger Umgang mit Steuersündern, Einbrechern, politischen Widersachern und ausländischen Angreifern einen irischen Schriftsteller zu der Romanfigur Graf Dracula inspiriert hat.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There's no way you can avoid this gentleman when you're visiting Transylvania, even though he's actually from Wallachia: Vlad III. Dr<span style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px; text-align: start;">ă</span>culea, whose merciless treatment of tax sinners, thieves, political enemies and foreign aggressors inspired an Irish writer to the novel figure Count Dracula.</span><br />
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Der "echte" Vlad III. Dr<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px; text-align: start;">ă</span>culea hat nur ein einziges Mal als Gast hier übernachtet, aber trotzdem wird das Schloss Bran als "Draculaschloss" vermarktet. Es kommt nämlich der Beschreibung im Roman zufällig am nächsten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The "real" Vlad III. Dr<span style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px; text-align: start;">ă</span>culea only ever spent one night here as a guest, but the Bran Castle is still marketed as the "Dracula Castle", simply because it happens to resemble the description in the novel the most.</span><br />
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Innenhof.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Courtyard.</span><br />
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Einer der vielen Fenstersitzplätze.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">One of the many window seats.</span><br />
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Geheime Treppe.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Secret staircase.</span><br />
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Gemütlicher Salon.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Cozy salon.</span><br />
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Auf der Dachterrasse.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On the roof top terrace.</span><br />
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Schlafzimmer.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Bedroom.</span><br />
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Wohnzimmer und Kinderspielzimmer. Das Schloss war bis 1948 bewohnt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Living room and children's play room. The castle was inhabited until 1948.</span><br />
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Waschtisch mit Wasserhahn.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Wash table with tap.</span><br />
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Neben historischen Informationen wird natürlich auch die Beziehung des Schlosses zur Romanfigur Graf Dracula dargestellt, sowie die Entstehung von Vampirgeschichten aus dem alten rumänischen Volksglauben an <i><a href="http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strigoi" target="_blank">strigoi</a></i>.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Apart from historical information, you also get explanations about how the castle and the novel character are related, or how vampire stories derived from the old Romanian belief in <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strigoi" target="_blank">strigoi</a></i>. </span><br />
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Auf dem Weg zur Folterkammer…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On our way to the torture chamber...</span><br />
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Beichtstuhl.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Confessional chair.</span><br />
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"Nürnberger Jungfrau".<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">"Virgin of Nuremberg".</span><br />
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Keuschheitsgürtel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Chastity belt.</span><br />
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Darstellung der Wasserfolter: Per Trichter wird dem Angeklagten literweise Wasser eingeflößt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Portrayal of the water torture: The accused gets force-fed with big amounts of water through a funnel.</span><br />
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Streckbank.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Rack.</span><br />
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Schandgeige. Und viele weitere Auswüchse menschlicher Biestigkeit mehr…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">"Violine of shame" for quarrelsome women. And many excesses of human nastiness more...</span><br />
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Im 20. Jahrhundert lebte es sich aber eher komfortabel hier; das ist der Motor des Aufzugs von Königin Maria.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the 20th century, people lived quite comfortably here; this is the engine of Queen Mary's elevator.</span><br />
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Außenansicht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Exterior view.</span><br />
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Nebengebäude.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Outbuilding.</span><br />
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Die Landschaft im Norden der Karpaten ist sehr lieblich; alles grün, gesprenkelt mit kleinen Dörfern und rundherum Bergpanorama.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The landscape north of the Carpathian mountains is very lovely; everything's green, dotted with little villages and surrounded by the mountain panorama.</span><br />
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Ein paar Kilometer weiter ist die Schlossruine Rasnov, die wir allerdings nur von unten anschauen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Just a few kilometres down the road, there is the Rasnov castle ruin, but we only look at it from down here.</span><br />
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Uns ist eher nach einem Eis!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We more feel like having an ice cream!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 66,15 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 20,05 km/h (ohne Gepäck)<br />
Nachtlager: Pension Casa Samurai in Bra<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px;">ș</span>ov<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 3. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Wir verlassen Bra<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px;">ș</span>ov Richtung Westen, fahren also im Norden der Karpaten durch das schöne und saubere Siebenbürgen, wo sich die kleineren Ortschaften durch eine durchgängig bebaute Straßenseite mit bunten Häusern und großen Hoftoren auszeichnen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We leave Bra<span style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px;">ș</span>ov heading west, which means we are riding through beautiful and clean Transylvania just north of the Carpathian mountains, where the smaller towns all have this uninterrupted string of buildings along the road, each of them in a different colour and with a big gate leading into the courtyard.</span><br />
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Am frühen Nachmittag kommt ein Gegenwind auf, der eine gewaltige Gewitterfront in unsere Richtung treibt. Wir finden ein geschütztes Plätzchen in einem Wald, stellen unser Zelt auf und schon fängt es an zu regnen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the early afternoon, we're suddenly faced with a headwind that's pushing a mighty thunderstorm towards us. We find a sheltered spot in a forest, and just when we put the last peg into the ground, it starts raining.</span><br />
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Einerseits erleichtert, andererseits enttäuscht, weil wir nur ein Drittel dessen geschafft haben, was wir uns vorgenommen hatten, machen wir es uns im Zelt gemütlich. Gut, dass wir so viele Sachen zum Zeitvertreib dabei haben!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On one hand, we are relieved to be dry, on the other hand, we are disappointed because we had planned to go three times as far today. We make ourselves comfortable in the tent, glad we're carrying so many things to pass the time!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 35,87 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 18,44 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: in einem Wald bei Persani<br />
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<br />
<b><u>Freitag, 4. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Der Amerikanische Unabhängigkeitstag hat uns persönlich noch nie besonders gejuckt, bis heute. Denn beim Lidl in Rumänien sind Amerikanische Wochen, und da gibt es Erdnussbutter! Nach über vier Monaten der Entsagung feiern Dave und ich also mit Erdnussbutter-und-Marmelade-Semmeln in den Nationalfeiertag der Amis hinein. Unser Beitrag zur Völkerverständigung.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">So far, the American Independence Day has never had any personal impact on us - until today. Because there are "American weeks" at the Lidl supermarkets which means they sell peanut butter! After four months of renunciation, Dave and I celebrate into the American National holiday with PB&J sandwiches. Call it international understanding.</span><br />
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Wir hatten schon befürchtet, im Regen weiterfahren zu müssen, aber um 7 Uhr in der Früh wird es endlich still im Zelt - und das Wetter hält den ganzen Tag durch. Gott sei Dank, denn wir haben einige Kilometer von gestern nachzuholen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We were worried all night that we would have to continue riding in the rain, but at 7 am it finally gets quiet in the tent - and the weather holds up all day. Thank god, because we have to make up for the short ride yesterday!</span><br />
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Die erste Hälfte der Strecke fahren wir auf einer ruhigen Nebenstraße durch kleine Dörfer und zwischen Schafweiden und Getreidefeldern dahin. Die Bauern in dieser Gegend verrichten ihre Arbeit großteils mit der Hand; ganze Familien sind mit Rechen und Gabeln auf Pferdekarren unterwegs, um das vom gestrigen Regen aufgeweichte Heu zu wenden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The first half of the way, we ride on a quiet rural road through little villages and between sheep pastures and crop fields. Farmers around here do most of their work by hand still; we see whole families going to their grass fields on horse carts, turning the hey upside down after it has been soaked from the rain last night.</span><br />
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Blick auf die Karpaten links von uns.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View of the Carpathian mountains on our left.</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><br /></span>
Später haben wir leider keine Wahl, wir müssen wieder auf die Nationalstraße. Zumindest haben wir dort fast durchgehend einen etwa 30 Zentimeter breiten Seitenstreifen. Besser als nix!<br />
Um 21 Uhr kommen wir völlig erschöpft in Sibiu an und finden auf Anhieb das Haus unseres Warmshowers-Gastgebers Andrei, bei dem wir leider nicht duschen können und auch nach mehrmaligem "Ich bin müde. Ich glaube, ich würde jetzt gern schlafen gehen" noch nicht erfahren, wo er gedenkt uns unterzubringen, so dass Dave und ich kurz vor Mitternacht schließlich einfach das Zelt unter der Wäscheleine im Hof aufbauen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Later, we don't have a choice but to continue on the National highway. At least, we've got a nearly continuous shoulder of about 30 centimetres. Better than nothing!</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At 9 pm, we finally arrive in Sibiu where we find our Warmshowers host Andrei's house no problem, but unfortunately, we cannot have a shower there and even after several times of us going "I'm tired. I think I would like to go sleep now", he still won't show us where he intends to let us rest our heads so that shortly before midnight, Dave and I just pitch the tent underneath the washing line in the courtyard.</span><br />
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<br />
Gefahrene Strecke: 129,5 km (Rekord!)<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 18,84 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: bei Andrei in Sibiu (Warmshowers XIII.)<br />
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<br />
<b><u>Samstag, 5. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Dave und ich fliehen in eine Pension, wo in einem Eck hinter der Rezeption bereits zwei andere Fahrräder parken. Die gehören zu Xan und Kiki aus Amsterdam, die von Holland hierher geradelt sind und ihre Reise in Sibiu abbrechen, weil ihnen der Verkehr zu stark ist. Können wir verstehen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I flee to a guesthouse where there are already two other bicycles parked in a corner behind the reception desk. They belong to Xan and Kiki from Amsterdam who rode here from the Netherlands but finish their trip now because of the traffic. We can understand that!</span><br />
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Am Abend besuchen wir gemeinsam das Musikfestival am Stadtplatz.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the evening, we go to the music festival on the central plaza together.</span><br />
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Nachtlager: Pension Happy Day in Sibiu<br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 6. Juli und Montag, 7. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Dave und ich gehen zum Bahnhof, um mal wieder Informationen einzuholen. Die Frau am Ticketschalter erweist sich als wenig hilfreich, doch übers Gleis hinweg erspähen wir ein Mädchen mit Fahrrad und Satteltaschen, das offensichtlich gerade auf den Zug wartet. Eine gute Idee! Wir bekommen so einige Tipps und helfen ihr dann, ihr Rad in den Zug zu hieven.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I go to the train station in order to find some information. The woman at the ticket booth isn't much help but then we spot a girl with a loaded bike on the platform, apparently waiting for her train. What a good idea! We get lots of tips and afterwards, we help her lift her bike into the train.</span><br />
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Lügenbrücke. Die stürzt angeblich ein, wenn ein Lügner darüber geht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Bridge of Lies. According to legend, it will collapse when a liar steps on it.</span><br />
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Über 90% der Stadtbevölkerung sind rumänisch-orthodoxen Bekenntnisses, aber die Stadtpfarrkirche ist evangelisch. Nur eines der vielen Zeugnisse der Siebenbürger Sachsen, die hier einst in der Mehrheit waren und die Gegend sehr "eingedeutscht" haben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">More than 90% of the city's population belong to the Rumanian-orthodox church but the cathedral is lutheran. Only one of many evidences that Germans used to be the majority here, "germanizing" the area a lot.</span><br />
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In einer deutschen Buchhandlung (es leben immer noch etwa 2000 Deutsche in Sibiu) decke ich mich mit Lesestoff für den nächsten Abschnitt unserer Reise ein.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In a German book shop (there are still about 2000 Germans living in Sibiu), I stock up on reading matter for the next leg of our journey.</span><br />
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Am großen Stadtplatz spielen Kinder im Springbrunnen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Children playing in the fountain in the big plaza.</span><br />
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Ratturm.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Turnul Sfatului.</span><br />
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Auf dem Weg zur Unterstadt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On our way to the lower part of town.</span><br />
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Typische kleine Pension hier.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Typical little guesthouse.</span><br />
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Ach ja: Und die Salami- und Wurstauswahl hier ist einfach mal ein Foto wert. Das wollte ich schon lang machen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Oh yes: The salami and sausage display here is worth a picture finally. I was going to take one for a while now!</span><br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 8. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Gabriel hat uns bereits vorgewarnt, dass die Mitnahme von Fahrrädern in der staatlichen Bahn nicht so einfach ist wie in der privaten "RegioTrans". Aber nach einer längeren Diskussion mit dem Schaffner, während der er uns mit der Polizei droht, und der Zahlung einer von ihm spontan erdachten Gebühr für Fahrräder kriegt er sich wieder ein und ist plötzlich sogar freundlich zu uns. Depp.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Gabriel has warned us that bringing a bike on the national train isn't as easy as in the private "RegioTrans". But after a lengthy discussion with the conductor, in which he threatens to call the police, and the payment of a bike fee that he makes up spontaneously, he suddenly knows how to smile at customers. Idiot.</span><br />
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Bald ist es vorbei mit dem Bergpanorama, und Rumänien verabschiedet sich bretteleben und mit vielen Sonnenblumen von uns. Also, fast zumindest. Wir fahren nämlich nach Oradea, nur etwa fünf Kilometer von der ungarischen Grenze entfernt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Soon, the mountain views are gone, and Romania says good-bye to us with a very flat landscape dotted with sunflowers. Well, nearly. We go to Oradea, a town only five kilometres away from the Hungarian border.</span><br />
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Dass ich da nicht früher draufgekommen bin! Im Fernseher läuft das Halbfinale Brasilien gegen Deutschland, und auf B5 aktuell höre ich die deutschen Kommentare dazu. Etwas zeitversetzt, aber wer will sich bei sooo einem Spiel beschweren?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Why didn't I think of that any earlier? The semi-final Brazil vs. Germany is on TV, and I'm listening to the German comments on the homepage of a German radio station. The timing is a little bit off but who would complain about SUCH a match?</span><br />
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Sieben. Zu. Eins. Wahnsinn!!!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Seven. One. OMFG!!!</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">(I said flippin'. Promise.)</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 405 km (per Zug)<br />
Nachtlager: Pension Recidency in Oradea<br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 9. Juli:</u></b><br />
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Einer der vielen Stadtparks von Oradea. Es ist wirklich eine schöne Stadt mit vielen prächtig renovierten Häusern. Wir fahren einmal mit dem Rad rundrum und gehen dann Vorräte einkaufen für den Weg nach Budapest. Als ich aus dem Billa rauskomme, ist der blaue Himmel verschwunden und nach wenigen Kilometern Fahrt können wir gerade noch unter ein großes Vordach hechten, bevor es mal wieder Zeit ist für den täglichen Nachmittagsgewittersturm. Ganze 500 Meter haben wir noch bis zur Grenze, aber ich gehe davon aus, dass ich diesen Blogeintrag jetzt posten kann :-)<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">One of many city parks in Oradea. It's a really nice town with many beautifully restored buildings. We do one full circle take a look before getting groceries for our trip to Budapest (Hungary). When I come out of the supermarket though, the blue sky is gone and after riding only a few kilometres, we just make it under a big roof before it's time again for the daily afternoon thunder shower. As we are only half a kilometre away from the Hungarian border though, I consider this blog post done now :-)</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 16,65 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 14,94 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Pension La Mama in Bor<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22px; text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">ş</span></span>, einen halben Kilometer von der Grenze entfernt.</div>
Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com2Oradea, Romania47.072222 21.92111099999999646.899196499999995 21.598387499999998 47.2452475 22.243834499999995tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-26015484377893599542014-06-26T09:15:00.003-07:002014-06-26T21:54:50.147-07:00Bulgarien<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Mittwoch, 18. Juni:</u></b></div>
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Die Einreise nach Bulgarien verläuft erwartungsgemäß komplikationsfrei, und da das Land zwar in der EU, aber ebenso wie Rumänien kein Schengenstaat ist, wird die Zeit, die wir hier verbringen, nicht zu den 90 Tagen Aufenthaltsgenehmigung gezählt, die Dave insgesamt hat.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Entering Bulgaria is easy as expected, and since the country is a member of the European Union now but not a Schengen country, the time we spend here does not get deducted from Dave's 90 day visa.</span></div>
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Schön wär's! Man sieht zwar in den Dörfern noch viele Esel- und Pferdekarren rumfahren, aber die Realität auf den engen Landstraßen sieht leider weniger romantisch aus. Die Autobahn ist hier im Süden zur Zeit gesperrt, und so quetscht sich der Schwerlastverkehr in einer endlosen Schlange an uns vorbei Richtung Hauptstadt. Zwanzig Kilometer machen wir den Wahnsinn mit, bis Petrich. Dort setzen wir uns in ein Café und schauen im Internet, ob es eine ruhige Alternativroute gibt - negativ. Drum schauen wir kurzentschlossen nach Zugverbindungen nach Sofia für morgen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Wouldn't that be nice! You do see quite a few donkey and horse carts in the villages still, but the reality on the narrow two lane rural roads doesn't look as romantic. At the moment, the main highway here in the south is closed, so all the heavy traffic has to squeeze past us in an endless line towards the capital city. We put up with this insanity for twenty kilometres, untill we get to Petrich. Then we sit in a café and check online if there are any quiet alternative routes - negative. So we decide without hesitation to take a train to Sofia tomorrow.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 37,37 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,21 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: Hotel Bulgaria in Petrich</div>
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 19. Juni:</u></b></div>
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24 Lev (12 Euro) für zwölf Plätze, nicht schlecht. Wir wundern uns zwar, dass die Fahrt nach Sofia (180km) fünf Stunden dauern soll, aber gut. Des Rätsels Lösung ist der Umstand, dass der Zug leider nicht durchfährt, sondern von einer halbstündigen Busfahrt unterbrochen wird, zu der wir unser ganzes Zeug umladen müssen. Aber die anderen Fahrgäste packen ungefragt mit an, so dass wir einigermaßen wenig genervt und tatsächlich mit allen Einzelteilen im zweiten Zug landen.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">24 Lev (18 CAD) for twelve seats is not too bad. We do wonder though why it takes five hours to get to Sofia (it's only 180 kilometres), but we'll see. The answer to this question is the fact that the train doesn't go all the way through but is interrupted by a half hour bus ride, which we have to transfer all our stuff for. But the other passengers grab some of our bags without being asked, and so we reach the second train only a little annoyed and with all our luggage.</span></div>
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Pünktlich um fünf geht wieder ein Gewitter über uns hinweg, diesmal sogar mit Hagel.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">At five o'clock, there's a thunder shower again. This time, it even hails.</span></div>
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Es ist schon nach 20 Uhr, als wir in Sofia ankommen, aber im Hostel Mostel werden wir freundlich und MIT ABENDESSEN empfangen! Da bleiben wir doch gleich ein paar Tage…</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's already after 8 pm when we arrive in Sofia but the Hostel Mostel welcomes us very friendly and WITH DINNER! Of course we'll stay here for a few days...</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 180 km (per Zug)</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 30 km/h (drum sind die Fotos auch relativ scharf :-)</div>
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Nachtlager: Hostel Mostel in Sofia</div>
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<b><u>Freitag, 20. Juni:</u></b></div>
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Beim Spaziergang in Sofia entdecken wir viele Erinnerungsstücke an die kommunistische Zeit Bulgariens: Plattenbauten, …<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Walking through Sofia, we discover a lot of mementos from the communist era in Bulgaria: buildings made from prefabricated slabs, ...</span></div>
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… Wachtürme, …<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">… watch towers, ...</span><br />
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… Trabbis fast wie neu.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">… Trabant cars like new.</span><br />
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Und Kirchen aller Art. Hier die russische Kirche mit Baugerüst, …<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Also, there are all sorts of churches. Here's the Russian church scaffolded, ...</span><br />
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… die bulgarisch-orthodoxe Alexander-Newski-Kathedrale, …<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">… the Bulgarian orthodox Alexander Newski Cathedral, ...</span><br />
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… die Sweta Sofia (wobei uns da der Löwe im Vordergrund mehr gefallen hat)…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">… the Sweta Sofia (although we liked the lion in front of it more)...</span><br />
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… und Sweti Georgi, das älteste Gebäude in Sofia aus dem 4. Jh.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">… and Sweti Georgi, the oldest building in Sofia from the 4th century.</span><br />
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Weiter kommen wir erstmal nicht, denn es ist wieder Zeit für den Fünfuhrsturm mit Hagel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">That's as far as we get before it's time for the 5-o'clock-thundershower with hail.</span><br />
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Den Abend verbringen wir im Hostel, wo wir viele Leute aus allen Ecken der Erde kennenlernen. Es ist schon ein besonderer Schlag Mensch, der Bulgarien bereist - die erste Frage ist normalerweise: "Was bringt dich hierher?"<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We spend the evening in the hostel, chatting to people from all over the planet we meet here. It's a special type of traveller who decides to visit Bulgaria - the first question usually is: "What brings you here?"</span><br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 21. Juni:</u></b><br />
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Frühstücksbuffet im Hostel<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Breakfast buffet in the hostel</span><br />
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Unser Schneewittchengemach im Dachgeschoss - ein Matratzenlager für 18 Personen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Snow White's chamber in the attic - a dormitory for 18 people.</span><br />
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Der Regen hat jetzt zwar endlich aufgehört, aber schön ist es immer noch nicht, drum gehen wir am frühen Nachmittag zusammen mit John aus New York ins Kino: Edge of Tomorrow schauen wir an, auf Englisch mit Bulgarischem Untertitel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The rain has stopped now but it's still not nice outside so we accompany John from New York to the cinema: Edge of Tomorrow with Bulgarian subtitles.</span><br />
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Am Abend kommt tatsächlich noch die Sonne raus, so dass wir die Stadtführung nachholen können, die wir eigentlich am Vormittag schon machen wollten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the evening, the sun comes out and we finally get to do the guided tour through the city that we missed in the morning.</span><br />
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Umstrittene Statue der Sofia.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Controversial statue of Sofia.</span><br />
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Einzige Moschee in der Stadt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Only mosque in town.</span><br />
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Altes Badehaus.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Old public bath.</span><br />
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Präsidentenpalast, von der Nationalgarde bewacht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">President's palace, protected by the National guard.</span><br />
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Dave bewirbt sich spontan für den Job!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave applies for the job spontaneously!</span><br />
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Dave als Zar Peter I., im Hintergrund seine Frau Miriam mit Sohn Boris. Während der Führung werden wir Teilnehmer immer wieder eingebunden; müssen Fragen beantworten, Gegenstände finden oder eben Persönlichkeiten darstellen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave as Zar Peter I., in the background his wife Miriam with son Boris. During the city tour, the participants get involved a lot; we have to answer questions, find things or mimic personalities.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zum Vergrößern anklicken / <span style="color: #cc0000;">Click to enlarge picture</span></td></tr>
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Vor der Basilika St. Sofia (da wo Dave gestern den Löwen geritten hat): Wo ist die Kirchenglocke?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In front of the Basilica St. Sofia (where Dave rode the lion yesterday): Where is the church bell?</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gTOqMNN9EQY/U6ZapI4q7DI/AAAAAAAAInI/FvrtkYdRu1s/s1600/CIMG1439.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gTOqMNN9EQY/U6ZapI4q7DI/AAAAAAAAInI/FvrtkYdRu1s/s1600/CIMG1439.JPG" height="129" width="320" /></a></div>
Gruppenfoto mit dem Löwen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Group picture with the lion.</span><br />
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Nach der Führung gehen viele der Teilnehmer spontan noch zum Essen miteinander. Natürlich in ein typisch bulgarisches Lokal!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After the tour, many of the participants decide to go for dinner together. Into a typical Bulgarian restaurant of course!</span><br />
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Heimweg durch die Stadt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On our way home through town.</span><br />
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Auch zwei Stunden nach dem offiziellen Ende der Tour geht unserer Führerin Dima der Stoff einfach nicht aus, und die Freude daran auch nicht: Hier das Nationaltheater…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Even two hours after the tour is officially over, there is no end to our guide Dima's enthusiasm to explain the sights of Sofia: Here's the National Theatre...</span><br />
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… und zum Abschluss noch ein Tanzkurs, weil in einem Park gerade ein paar Straßenmusikanten spielen. Super!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">… and at the end, we stop to listen to a group of street musicians in a park and she teaches us to dance to their music. Awesome!</span></div>
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<br />
<b><u>Sonntag, 22. Juni:</u></b></div>
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Dave erspielt uns eine kostenlose Extranacht im Hostel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave earns us a free night in the hostel.</span><br />
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Spaziergang in Sofia. Diese Stadt gefällt uns immer besser!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Walking through Sofia. We like this town more and more!</span><br />
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Vor dem Kulturpalast tummeln sich die Skateboardfahrer. Aus Gehwegplatten haben sie sich hier eine Sprungschanze gebaut.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In front of the cultural palace, there are lots of skaters. They've built themselves a jump from sidewalk tiles.</span><br />
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Monument "1300 Jahre Bulgarien"<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Monument to 1300 years of Bulgaria.</span><br />
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Straßenmusikanten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Street musicians.</span><br />
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Abendprogramm im Hostel: WM in Brasilien verfolgen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Daily evening program in the hostel: Watching the soccer world championship in Brazil!</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><br /></span>
<u><b>Montag, 23. Juni:</b></u><br />
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Dave mit seiner Sicherheitsschlafhaube.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave with his safety sleeping hat.</span><br />
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Wir verlassen Sofia und folgen dem Fluss Iskar Richtung Donau. Was für ein Genuss! Kaum Verkehr auf der Straße und viele schöne Aussichten wie diese. Auf einer Wiese kurz nach Opletnya finden wir einen idealen Zeltplatz, doch ein hilfsbereiter Fischer, der sich Sorgen macht, dass uns in der Nacht die Mücken auffressen, vermittelt uns telefonisch an seinen Freund weiter, der in Zverino (zwölf Kilometer weiter) ein Café hat.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We leave Sofia and follow the Iskar river towards Danube. What a joy! Hardly any traffic on the road and lots of great views like this one. In a grass field just after Opletnya, we find an ideal camp spot but a helpful fisherman who is worried that we might get eaten by mosquitoes at night, transfers us via phone to his friend who owns a café in Zverino (12 kilometres down the road).</span><br />
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<br />
Gefahrene Strecke: 82,53 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 18,51 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Café in Zverino<br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 24. Juni:</u></b><br />
Es ist unglaublich heiß heute! Während unserer Mittagspause in Vratsa zeigen unsere Tachos über 50 ºC an.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's incredibly hot today! During our lunch break in Vratsa, our bike computers show over 50 ºC.</span><br />
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Auf der Weiterfahrt Richtung Boychinovtsi wird aus den sehnsuchtsvoll herbeigewünschten Wolken am Horizont schlagartig ein heftiges Gewitter mit starkem Wind und Regen, aber Gott sei Dank nur ein paar kleinen Hagelkörnern. Komplett durchnässt erreichen wir das nächste Dorf, wo wir erst einmal unter dem Dach einer Tankstelle ausharren, doch es sieht nach allen Seiten nur grau aus.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As we continue towards Boychinovtsi, the much longed-for clouds at the horizon suddenly turn into a crazy thundershower with strong winds and rain, but thankfully only little hail. We're completely drenched when we arrive in the next village where we wait out under the roof of a petrol station, but the sky is just grey in every direction.</span><br />
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Nach etwa einer Stunde lässt der Regen etwas nach, und wir dürfen auf einem kleinen Grasfleckchen neben der Tankstelle unser Zelt aufstellen, so dass wir uns endlich umziehen können.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After about one hour, the rain slows down a bit, and we ask permission to set up our tent on a little grassy patch next to the petrol station so that we can finally put on some dry clothes.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 55,23 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,63 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Wiese neben der Tankstelle in Krivodol<br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 25. Juni:</u></b><br />
In Krivodol sind mehrere Straßen wegen Bauarbeiten gesperrt, und der Rest ist vom gestrigen Regen halb überflutet. Ohne die Hilfe eines Mannes, der spontan in sein Auto steigt und uns langsam vor uns herfahrend durch den Ort lotst, wären wir total aufgeschmissen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Several roads in Krivodol are closed for maintenance work, and the rest of them are flooded still from the rain yesterday. We'd be completely lost without the help of one man who spontaneously gets into his car and driving very slowly, guides us through the village.</span><br />
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Einzigartige Unterhaltung während unserer Mittagspause in Boychinovtsi: Wir sitzen auf einer Parkbank und wundern uns über etwa acht bis zehn Männer, die versuchen, den geparkten BMW (rechts) wegzutragen. Leider vergeblich. Die Autotüren sind offen, aber auf die Idee kommt keiner, den Gang rauszutun und die Handbremse zu lösen…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">One of a kind live entertainment during our lunch break in Boychinovtsi: We're sitting on a park bench wondering why about eight or ten men are trying to carry away this BMW that's parked on the right. Without success. The car doors are open, but nobody has the wits to just put the gear in neutral and loosen the handbrake...</span><br />
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Hintergrund: Eine der Linden muss weg, und die hängt leider Richtung Straße. Nachdem das Wegtragen des Fahrzeugs auch nach mehrmaligem Platzwechsel der beteiligten Personen nicht geklappt hat (ach nö!), gehen die Männer dazu über, einzelne Äste abzusägen. Einer davon fällt auf den BMW, aber das ist ja wohl nicht so schlimm. Jetzt holt einer eine Schnur raus, so dick wie eine Wäscheleine etwa. Die wird um die Linde gebunden und die Hälfte der Männer zieht dran. Eine zweite Schnur wird etwas höher am Baum befestigt, und während der Mann noch auf der Leiter steht (Bild oben), fängt ein weiterer bereits an zu sägen…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Reason: One of the linden trees has to go, and unfortunately it's leaning towards the street. As carrying the car won't work even after the guys swapped positions several times (Who would've thought?), they start sawing off one branch at a time. One of them falls on the car but that's no big deal, right? Now somebody produces a rope as thick as a washing line and ties it to the tree so that about half the men can pull on it. Another rope is tied a little above the first one, and while the man is still standing on the ladder (top picture), another one starts sawing at the trunk...</span><br />
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Kurz vor Miziya sind wir gerade dabei, nach einem geeigneten Schlafplatz Ausschau zu halten, da fällt uns an diesem Flussufer ein Zelt nebst Fahrrad auf! Gerd aus Karlsruhe hat sich hier bereits gemütlich eingerichtet und hat nichts dagegen, dass wir ihm Gesellschaft leisten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Just before Miziya, we are looking for a good place to sleep when we spot a tent and a bike next to this river! It's Gerd from Germany who has already made himself at home there and doesn''t mind our company at all.</span><br />
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In der Nacht kommt aus dem Nichts heraus ein brutaler Sturm auf, der unser Zelt an einer Seite eindrückt und dabei eine Stange anknackst. Gerd hilft uns, das Zelt abzubauen und die Stange zu reparieren. Über zwei Stunden hocken wir so oder so ähnlich im Kuhdreck und fluchen über die Mücken, die sofort nach dem Sturm wieder zurückgekehrt sind. Aber: Dave kriegt es hin, um halb eins steht das Zelt wieder!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Out of nowhere, there's a brutal storm in the night which bends out tent to the side and cracks a pole. Gerd helps us take the tent down and repair the pole. </span><span style="color: #cc0000;">For over two hours, we sit in the cow leftovers like this and swear at the mosquitoes which came back right after the storm. But: Dave manages to fix the pole, and at half past midnight, the tent is standing again!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 74,90 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 18,52 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Wiese an einem Fluss<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 26. Juni: </u></b><br />
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Unser Camp am Morgen.<br />
Auf der Fahrt durchs dicht bewaldete Donautal läuft eine Wildsau vor uns über die Straße - darauf müssen wir uns wohl ab jetzt einstellen! In Oryahovo verabschieden wir uns von Gerd und geben noch die letzten bulgarischen Lev aus, bevor wir zur Fähre fahren. Die Donau bildet die Grenze zwischen Bulgarien und Rumänien.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our camp this morning. </span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On our way through the foresty Danube valley, we see a wild boar crossing the road in front of us - I guess we have to take that in account from now on! In Oryahovo, we say good-bye to Gerd and spend the rest of our Bulgarian Lev before riding to the ferry. The Danube river is the border between Bulgaria and Romania.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zum Vergrößern anklicken / <span style="color: #cc0000;">Click to enlarge picture</span></td></tr>
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"Rumänien 0,5 km". Die lange Wartezeit an der Fähre verkürzt uns ein reiselustiger Motorradfahrer aus Schottland, der so allerhand Geschichten auf Lager hat. Ansonsten verläuft der Grenzübergang sehr geschmeidig, und in Rumänien werden wir sowohl von den Zollbeamten als auch von den Leuten auf der Straße sehr freundlich empfangen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">"Romania 0.5 km". Chatting to a motorcyclist from Scotland shortens the long waiting for the ferry. Other than that, the border crossing is smooth as, and we receive a very friendly welcome in Romania from border officials as well as people on the street.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 26,72 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,23 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hostel in Bechet</div>
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Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Sofia, Bulgaria42.6977082 23.32186750000005342.3239182 22.676420500000052 43.0714982 23.967314500000054tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-13142898059742517552014-06-15T04:41:00.001-07:002014-06-19T13:27:06.784-07:00Patra bis Promachonas<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Freitag, 30. Mai:</u></b></div>
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Blick über den Golf von Korinth.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View across the gulf of Corinth.</span><br />
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Diese vier Kilometer lange Brücke führt uns zurück aufs Festland.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This four kilometre long bridge brings us back to the mainland.</span><br />
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In dem schönen Städtchen Nafpaktos mit seiner alten Hafenanlage, der Burg und den vielen netten Strand- und Straßencafés legen wir eine Pause ein. Es fängt an zu regnen, und wir sitzen unter einem Torbogen der Hafenmauer fest, von wo aus wir die halbstündlich eintrudelnden Touristenbusse mit Australiern, Amerikanern und Japanern beobachten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We take a break in the beautiful town of Nafpaktos with its old harbour, the castle and all the lovely beach and street cafes. It starts to rain so we are stuck under the gate of the harbour wall from where we watch how every half hour, a bus full of Australian, American or Japanese tourists spills out its contents. </span></div>
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Als der Regen nachlässt, raffen wir uns auf und schaffen es bis zu einem Stadtpark am Strand, in dem es sich theoretisch gut campen ließe.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When the rain slows down we pull ourselves up and make it to a park at the beach where theoretically, we could camp.</span></div>
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Es fängt wieder an zu regnen, deshalb kehren wir um und verbringen den Rest des Nachmittags und frühen Abend in einem Café, bevor wir zu besagtem Stadtpark fahren und das Zelt aufschlagen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It starts raining again so we turn around and spend all afternoon and early evening in a cafe before setting up camp in aforementioned park.</span></div>
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Blick von unserem Zeltplatz auf die Altstadt von Nafpaktos.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View from our camp spot to the old town of Nafpaktos.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 27,86 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,80 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Stadtpark in Nafpaktos<br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 31. Mai:</u></b><br />
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Wieder schöne Fahrt an der Küste entlang, Aussicht auf tiefblaue Buchten, sanftes Auf und Ab. Aber es weht ein Wind, das ist der Wahnsinn: Wir fliegen bergauf und müssen bergab treten!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Pleasant ride along the coast once again, overlooking deep blue bays, gentle up and down. But there's some crazy wind blowing today: We fly uphill and have to push downhill!</span></div>
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Erklären können wir es uns nicht, aber der Wind geht in alle Richtungen gleichzeitig, wie man sieht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As you can see, the wind comes from all sides at the same time.</span></div>
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Eines der vielen Dörfer entlang der Südküste des Festlands.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">One of many villages along the south coast of the mainland.</span><br />
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Tatütataa - wir haben's mal wieder geschafft…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Continuing our old tradition with police encounters...</span></div>
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Kurz nach Itea schlagen wir unser Lager in diesem Olivenhain auf. Um etwa 20 Uhr hält jemand mit seinem Auto auf dem Feldweg, hupt und ruft. Es sind der Bauer und seine Frau, die sich, als wir nicht reagieren, in weitem Bogen nähern und uns nun, jeweils hinter einem Baum Schutz suchend, auf Griechisch anschreien. Ich gehe aus dem Zelt und frage den Mann, ob er der Besitzer dieses Feldes sei und ob wir es verlassen sollen. Was er mir genau auf Englisch erwidert, kann ich leider kaum verstehen, da sein keifendes Weibsbild nach wie vor aus sicherer Distanz auf Griechisch zu uns herüberschimpft. Aber ich interpretiere die Situation weder als herzlichen Empfang noch als stolze Präsentation von Ackerfrüchten (wie sonst üblich, wenn man auf Landwirte trifft), deshalb fange ich an zu packen.</div>
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Dave, der gerade seine Sitar fertig gestimmt hat und spielen will, versucht nochmal mit den Leuten zu reden - mit demselben Ergebnis. Na toll. Wir hatten uns so über unseren frühen Feierabend gefreut, jetzt sind wir kurz vor Sonnenuntergang auf einmal obdachlos.</div>
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Während wir packen, reißt die Schimpftirade der Bäuerin keine Sekunde ab. An einer Stelle hören wir "Policia" heraus - kein griechisches Wort, aber anscheinend droht sie uns sogar mit der Polizei! Wir schicken uns, aber auch im Eiltempo dauert es eine gute halbe Stunde, bis das Zelt ausgeräumt und abgebaut ist. Das aufgebrachte Ehepaar hat sich in der Zwischenzeit am Auto postiert, wo sie laut schimpfend auf uns warten und uns beobachten.</div>
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Als Dave und ich dabei sind, unsere Taschen auf die Fahrräder zu laden, kommt tatsächlich die Polizei. Zuerst hören sie sich die Geschichte der Grundeigentümer an, dann kommen sie zu uns herüber. Es sind zwei total freundliche Polizisten, die sich hauptsächlich für unsere Reise interessieren und dafür entschuldigen, dass sie uns vertreiben müssen. "Die Frau spinnt. Wir konnten kein Wort von dem verstehen, was sie gesagt hat. Es ist zwar offiziell nicht erlaubt, aber normalerweise könnt ihr in Griechenland überall problemlos zelten, die Leute sind wirklich nett. Heute seid ihr einfach an die Falschen geraten."</div>
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Zum Abschied geben sie uns noch einen Tipp, wo wir ganz in der Nähe ungesehen campen können…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Just after Itea, we pitch our tent in this olive grove. At around 8 pm, somebody stops their car on the farm road, honks and shouts. It's the farmer and his wife who, when we don't react, approach us carefully and yell at us in Greek from behind some trees. I leave the tent and ask the man if he's the owner of the field and if he wants us to leave. Unfortunately, I cannot understand what exactly he replies in English because his nagging wife is still cursing at us in Greek from a safe distance. But the situation doesn't seem to me like a warm welcome or a proud presentation of farm produce (as otherwise usual whenever we meet farmers) so I start packing.</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave, who has just finished tuning his Sitar and wants to play, tries to talk to the people again but gets the same result. Great. We had been so looking forward to an early night and suddenly we are homeless just before sunset.</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">While we are packing our gear, the woman keeps delivering her angry tirade without so much as taking a breath, and at some point we hear "policia" - not a Greek word but apparently, she's threatening us with the police now! Even though we hurry it takes us a good half hour to empty and take down the tent. In the meantime, the outraged couple has positioned themselves at their car, still grumbling loudly while they wait for us and watch us.</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When Dave and I are putting our panniers on the bikes, the police really shows up. First, they listen to the property owners' story, then they come over to our spot. They are two very friendly policemen who are mainly interested in our journey and apologize for having to expel us. "The woman is crazy. We couldn't understand anything she said. Officially, it's not allowed but usually you can camp anywhere in Greece, the people are very nice. Today, you just met the wrong ones."</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As a good-bye, they give us a tip where to find a good camp spot nearby...</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 93,16 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,33 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: an einem Fußweg kurz vor Chrisso</div>
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<b><u>Sonntag, 1. Juni:</u></b></div>
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Der antike Fußweg zum Orakel von Delfi - mit dem Fahrrad leider nix.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The ancient path to the Oracle of Delfi - not suitable for bicycles though.</span><br />
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Aquädukt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Aqueduct. </span><br />
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Nach einem superanstrengenden Anstieg auf 700 Meter erreichen wir die archäologische Ausstellung von Delfi.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After a super strenuous climb to 700 metres, we arrive at the archaeological site of Delfi.</span></div>
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Der Tempel des Apollo, Gott des Lichts, der Musik und Harmonie, aus dem 4. Jh. v. Chr. Hier fand das berühmte Orakel statt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The temple of Apollo, god of light, music and harmony, is dated to the 4th century BC. This is where the famous oracle operated.</span></div>
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Wasserlauf.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Watercourse.</span><br />
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Theater.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Theatre.</span><br />
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Stein der Sibyl, der ersten Prophetin von Delfi, die den Fall von Troja vorausgesagt haben soll.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Rock of Sibyl, the first prophetess of Delfi who is said to have foreseen the fall of Troy.</span></div>
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Gymnasium.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Gymnasium.</span><br />
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Tholos.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Tholos.</span><br />
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Die genaue Bedeutung dieses Rundgebäudes ist nicht erforscht, aber diese Touristengruppe an der Seite findet wohl irgendeine Inspiration hier. Im Kreis stehend, beten und singen sie so lange, bis sie von einer Aufseherin ermahnt werden, woraufhin eine hitzige Diskussion entsteht…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">What exactly the function of this building was is still unknown but this tourist group on the side seems to find some kind of inspiration here. Standing in a circle, they pray and sing until the guard warns them which starts a heated discussion...</span></div>
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Von Delfi aus geht es den Berg wieder hinunter und auf der anderen Seite ein weiteres Mal hoch auf 800 Meter. Ein anstrengender Tag! In Eleonas treffen wir diese fünfköpfige Radlertruppe aus Bulgarien, die zwar leider in die andere Richtung unterwegs ist, aber ein guter Grund für eine Pause ist es allemal! Zum Spaß beschreiben wir ihnen den Weg zu einem guten Zeltplatz in einem Olivenhain nicht weit weg...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">From Delfi, we first roll back down the hill and then climb up to 800 metres again on the other side. What a hard day! In Eleonas, we run into this group of five cyclists from Bulgaria. Unfortunately, they are riding in the other direction but still, it's a good reason to take a break! As a joke, we describe to them a nice camp spot in some olive grove not far away...</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 50,77 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 11, 06 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: an der Straße bei Gravia</div>
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<b><u>Montag, 2. Juni:</u></b></div>
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Fahrt von Gravia nach Lamia, wo wir eigentlich nur schnell ins Internet und dann weiter wollen, aber wir können uns stundenlang nicht aufraffen und entscheiden uns letztendlich hierzubleiben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Ride from Gravia to Lamia where we only wanted to check the internet before continuing, but then we cannot pull ourselves up for hours and finally decide to stay here.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 56,79 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 18,17 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: Hotel Elena in Lamia</div>
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<b><u>Dienstag, 3. Juni:</u></b></div>
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Ruhetag in Lamia.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Rest day in Lamia.</span></div>
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 4. Juni:</u></b></div>
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Einmal mehr geht es hinauf auf 800 Meter, von wo sich uns ein wunderbarer Blick über die größte ebene Fläche Griechenlands bietet.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Once again, we climb up to 800 metres from where we have a great view over the biggest plane in Greece.</span></div>
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Bienenstöcke.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Bee hives.</span><br />
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Unbezahlbar: eine frisch geteerte Straße, die für den Kraftverkehr noch nicht freigegeben ist.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Priceless: a freshly paved road that hasn't been opened for traffic yet.</span></div>
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Heute können wir bei Chris in Palamás übernachten. Außer uns ist noch ein weiterer Reiseradler bei der Warmshowers-Gastfamilie, Steve aus den USA, der von Griechenland nach Spanien fährt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, we get to stay at Chris' place in Palamás. The warmshowers family is also hosting Steve from Portland, OR who is riding from Greece to Spain.</span></div>
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Chris ist ein großer Grillmeister, und die Antwort "nein, danke" wird nicht akzeptiert. Pappsatt und glücklich zeigt Dave seine abgefieselten Souvlakisteckerl.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Chris fires up the Barbecue and as a typical Greek grillmaster, he won't accept a "no thanks". Completely stuffed and happy, Dave shows his cleanly gnawed souvlaki sticks.</span></div>
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Später kommt natürlich noch die Sitar zum Einsatz.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Later, he brings out the Sitar for a little concert.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 90,59 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,59 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: bei Chris in Palamás (Warmshowers XI.)<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 5. Juni:</u></b><br />
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Chris schlägt uns einen Tagesausflug nach Meteora vor und bietet an, dass wir unser Gepäck bei ihm lassen uns heute nochmal übernachten können. Wahnsinn! Zusammen mit Steve machen wir uns am Vormittag auf den Weg durch viele kleine Bauerndörfer.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Chris suggests a day trip to Meteora and offers for us to leave all our gear at his place and spend another night camping in his garden. Awesome! Together with Steve we make our way through many little farm villages across the plane.</span></div>
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Hier wird Mais angebaut, muss aber bewässert werden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">They grow corn here but it has to be irrigated.</span><br />
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Das Städtchen Kalambaka aus der Ferne. Die rundlichen Felsen im Hintergrund sind unser Ziel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Kalambaka from a distance. We are headed for the roundish rocks in the background.</span></div>
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Navigieren leicht gemacht: Vor einiger Zeit hat Chris ein Radrennen organisiert und die Strecke mit rosa Pfeilen markiert. Danke für den Tipp!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Navigation is easy: Chris has organized a bike race a while ago, marking the route with pink arrows. Thanks for the tip!</span></div>
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Ab jetzt geht's bergauf, ist aber nicht schlimm, weil wir alle 20 Meter zum Fotografieren stehenbleiben müssen. Was wir hier sehen, haut uns echt vom Hocker: Atemberaubende Felsformationen mit ehemals bewohnten Höhlen und obendrauf… Klöster.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">From now on it's all uphill, but it's not so bad because we stop every 20 metres to take pictures. What we get to see here bowls us over: Breathtaking rock formations with caves that used to be inhabited and on top… monasteries.</span></div>
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Eine der Höhlen weit über uns.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">One of the caves high above us.</span><br />
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Erster Blick auf eines der sechs noch bewohnten Klöster.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">First glimpse of one of six still inhabited monasteries.</span><br />
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Wie gesagt, alle 20 Meter…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Like I said, every 20 metres...</span><br />
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Das Frauenkloster Roussano erreichen wir gerade noch rechtzeitig für einen Besuch. Die Aussicht von hier oben ist grandios, aber innendrin ist Fotografieren nicht gestattet.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We reach the Roussano nunnery just in time for a visit. The view from up here is spectacular, but it's not allowed to take pictures inside the building.</span></div>
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Innenhof des Frauenklosters.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Courtyard of the nunnery.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zum Vergrößern anklicken / <span style="color: #cc0000;">Click to enlarge picture</span></td></tr>
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Blick hinunter auf Kalambaka.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View down to Kalambaka.</span><br />
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Es ist schon sehr spät, als wir zu Chris und seiner Familie zurückkehren. Was für ein geiler Tag!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's already very late when we return to Chris and his family. What an awesome day!</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 127,74 km (ohne Gepäck)<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 18,48 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: bei Chris in Palamás<br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 6. Juni:</u></b><br />
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Hat mir doch nicht die Oma gestern die Wäsche aufgehängt, abgenommen und zusammengelegt, weil wir so spät noch unterwegs waren. Nicht, dass sie in der Nacht wieder feucht wird!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Would you believe it? The family's grandma took care of all my laundry yesterday because we were out so long. Hung it up to dry, took it down and folded it so that it wouldn't get wet again during the night!</span></div>
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Die zwei Töchter von Chris versuchen Dave mit Kaffee aus dem Zelt zu locken.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Chris' two daughters try and lure Dave out of the tent with coffee.</span></div>
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Wir verbringen den ganzen Tag faulenzend im Schatten. Am Abend lädt uns der Opa der Familie auf ein Bier in seiner Stammkneipe ein. Es ist schon 22:30 Uhr, und da keiner davon ausgeht, dass wir den Weg dorthin allein finden, führen uns eben die zwei Mädchen hin.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We spend all day lazing in the shade. After dinner, the family's grandpa invites us for a beer into his favourite pub. It's already 10:30 pm but since nobody trusts us to find our own way there the two girls guide us.</span></div>
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<b><u>Samstag, 7. Juni: </u></b><br />
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Chris und seine Familie brechen heute auf zu ihrem Sommerhaus in Stomio, wo sie die nächsten drei Monate verbringen werden. Wie praktisch, dass auch wir dorthin wollen! Wir laden nicht nur unseren Krempel, sondern auch Chris' halben Haushalt in dessen Lieferwagen und fahren zusammen Richtung Strand.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Chris and his family start their three month summer holiday in their other house in Stomio today. How convenient, we also want to go there! We load not only our stuff but also half the family's household into Chris' truck and drive to the beach.</span></div>
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Aber halt! Zuerst packen alle bei der Gartenarbeit mit an, denn seit September vorigen Jahres war niemand mehr hier zum Unkrautrupfen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">But hang on! First, everybody helps weeding the garden because nobody has been here since September last year.</span></div>
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Fertig!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Done!</span><br />
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Danach geht's an den Strand.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Afterwards, we all go to the beach together.</span><br />
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Hündin Asterik hätte heute eigentlich ihre erste Schwimmstunde gehabt, aber die Wellen sagen ihr eher weniger zu. Am Abend kommen noch zwei "Warmduscher" aus England zum Haus, Mark und Will.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dog Asterik was supposed to take her first swimming lesson today but she doesn't quite seem to like the waves. In the evening, we meet two more warmshowers guests, Mark and Will from England.</span></div>
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<b><u>Sonntag, 8. Juni:</u></b><br />
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Abschied von Chris und seiner Familie nach vier ereignisreichen Tagen zusammen. Mark und Will bleiben heute noch in Stomio und werden uns morgen in Litochoro wiedersehen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Leaving Chris and his family after four eventful days together. Mark and Will are taking the day off and will catch up to us in Litochoro tomorrow.</span></div>
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Genau vor einem Monat sind wir diese Strecke andersrum gefahren, wir kennen uns also aus und wissen, wo es langgeht. Nur jetzt ist alles voller Touristen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Exactly one month ago, we rode this part in the other direction, so we know our way around without looking at the map. But now, everything is full of tourists!</span><br />
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In Litochoro informieren wir uns über verschiedene Wanderwege auf den Olymp und kaufen den nötigen Proviant für die nächsten zwei Tage. Als wir gerade wieder losfahren möchten, höre ich einen deutlichen Knacks an meinem Rad - Rahmen angebrochen. Und das am Pfingstwochenende! Natürlich ist im ganzen Ort kein Mechaniker aufzutreiben, ganz zu schweigen ein Spezialist, der Aluminium schweißen kann. Nach einer stundenlangen erfolglosen Odyssee schlagen wir unser Lager im Stadtpark auf.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In Litochoro, we gather some information about different hiking trails on Mount Olympus and buy some supplies for the next two days. When we want to start riding again, I hear a distinct crack from the back of my bike - the frame is broken. And it's the pentecost long weekend! Of course, we cannot get hold of a mechanic in the whole town, not to speak of a specialist who can weld aluminum. After a several hour unsuccessful odyssey, we set up camp in the city park.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 47,85 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 13,97 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: Stadtpark in Litochoro</div>
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<b><u>Montag, 9. Juni:</u></b><br />
Auch heute ist in Griechenland Feiertag und von daher kein Fahrradladen oder sonstiger Mechaniker auf. Zudem schüttet es immer wieder wie aus Kübeln, was den Tag noch frustrierender macht. Wir sind schon fast so weit, dass wir die Olympbesteigung abblasen und einen Bus nach Thessaloniki nehmen wollen, da trudeln am frühen Abend endlich Mark und Will ein, die ebenfalls einen heftigen Tag hinter sich haben. Das Wiedersehen motiviert uns wieder für die Wandertour, und ein gutes Abendessen tut sein Übriges.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Not only is it another holiday in Greece today with all the bike shops and mechanics closed, it also rains cats and dogs which makes this day even more frustrating. We are nearly ready to skip hiking on Mount Olympus and take a bus to Thessaloniki when in the early evening, Mark and Will finally arrive. They've also had a hard day but the reunion motivates us for the hike again, and a nice dinner does its magic, too.</span></div>
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Dave und ich können unsere Fahrräder bis Mittwoch im Geräteschuppen der Polizei unterstellen, Mark und Will lassen sie im Keller eines Restaurants.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I can store our bikes in the garage of the police station until Wednesday, Mark and Will leave theirs in the basement of a restaurant.</span></div>
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Danach zeigen wir ihnen "unseren" Zeltplatz im Stadtpark, wo wir mit ungewohnt wenig Gepäck campen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Afterwards, we show them "our" camp spot in the city park where we reside with an unusually small amount of gear.</span></div>
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<b><u>Dienstag, 10. Juni:</u></b></div>
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Per Anhalter fahren wir bis auf 1100 Meter nach Prionia, wo die Straße endet und der Wanderweg auf den Berg der Götter beginnt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We hitch a ride up to 1100 metres to Prionia, where the road ends and the hiking trail to the mountain of the gods begins.</span></div>
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Nach wenigen hundert Metern verstecken wir unsere Zelte und Schlafsäcke am Wegrand, um noch mehr Gewicht zu sparen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After a couple of hundred metres, we stash our tents and sleeping bags behind some bushes in order to save more weight.</span></div>
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Leicht bepackt geht's bei schönstem Wetter weiter, doch der Pfad ist auch so richtig anstrengend.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We are lightly packed and the weather is an absolute dream, but the path is still really strenuous.</span><br />
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Am frühen Nachmittag erreichen wir auf 2100 Metern eine Hütte und beschließen, die Nacht hier zu verbringen - eine weise Entscheidung, wie sich morgen zeigen wird!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the early afternoon, we arrive at a refuge on 2100 metres and decide to spend the night here - a wise move as we will see tomorrow!</span></div>
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Schullandheimgefühl pur. Vor allem, als eine 42-köpfige Jugendgruppe aus den USA einmarschiert!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Typical dormitory feeling. Especially when a group of 42 adolescents from the USA is marching in!</span></div>
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 11. Juni:</u></b></div>
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"Zu den Gipfeln". 52 Stück hat der Olymp, mal sehen, auf welchen wir es schaffen…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">"To the summits". There are 52 of them on Mount Olympus, we'll see which one we'll climb...</span><br />
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Seltenes Glück!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">A rare photo object!</span><br />
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Erster Versuch: Wir biegen vom Hauptweg ab Richtung Mytikas (höchster Gipfel), doch nach ein paar hundert Höhenmetern gelangen wir an diese Schneefelder. Eines davon überqueren wir und beschließen dann, umzukehren. Es ist einfach zu gefährlich.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">First attempt: We turn off the main trail towards Mytikas (highest peak) but after a few hundred metres (altitude!) we get to these snow fields. After crossing one of them we decide to go back. It's just too dangerous.</span></div>
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Zweiter Versuch: Wir gehen zurück zum Hauptweg und folgen diesem Richtung Skala (vierthöchster Gipfel auf 2866 Metern).<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Second attempt: We return to the main path and follow it towards Skala (fourth highest peak on 2866 metres).</span></div>
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Geschafft! Von hier aus genießen wir einen fantastischen Blick zum Mytikas nach Norden (2918 Meter)…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Done! From here, we enjoy a fantastic view to Mytikas in the north (2918 metres)...</span></div>
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… und zum Skolio, dem zweithöchsten Gipfel im Westen (2911 Meter).<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">… and Skolio in the west (second highest peak on 2911 metres).</span><br />
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Schlittenfahren in Griechenland? Aber klar! Wer so wie Dave immer ein Stück wasserfeste Plane mit sich rumschleppt, kann sich den anstrengenden Abstieg vom Gipfel sparen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Tobogganing in Greece? For sure! If you haul around a piece of waterproof tarp like Dave does, you can save yourself the painful descend from the mountain.</span></div>
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Insgesamt brauchen wir fünf Stunden für den Abstieg bis Prionia, von dort aus fahren wir per Anhalter wieder zurück nach Litochoro, wo wir unsere Räder aus ihren jeweiligen Unterkünften abholen und uns wieder im Stadtpark gemütlich einrichten. In der Nacht regnet es wieder. Wir können es gar nicht fassen, was für ein Glück wir mit dem Wetter hatten!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It takes us five hours to hike down to Prionia, and we catch another ride to Litochoro where we pick up our bikes from their respective accommodations and settle down in the city park once more. In the night, it rains again. We cannot believe how lucky we got with the weather!</span></div>
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 12. Juni:</u></b></div>
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Den Vormittag verbringen wir gemütlich im Stadtpark, danach fahren Dave und ich per Bus nach Thessaloniki und übernachten dort wieder bei Dean und Vicky.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We hang out in the park all morning before Dave and I take a bus to Thessaloniki where we stay with Dean and Vicky again.</span></div>
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<b><u>Freitag, 13. Juni:</u></b></div>
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Dean und Dave bringen meinen Fahrradrahmen mit dem Motorrad zu einem Schweißer.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dean and Dave bring my bike frame to a welder by motorbike.</span></div>
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Vorher.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Before.</span><br />
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Nachher.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After.</span><br />
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Und mit Lack drauf. Sollte halten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And lacquered. Should be good.</span><br />
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Am Abend gehen wir vier gemeinsam in ein zypriotisches Restaurant in Thessaloniki. Dave und ich sind schon eine Schau: Von der Bergtour tun unsere Beine noch so weh, dass jede Bordsteinkante zum echten Hindernis wird!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the evening, we have dinner in a Cypriot restaurant in Thessaloniki. Dave and I are quite the show: From the hike on the mountain, our legs are so sore that every curb becomes an obstacle!</span></div>
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Abschied vom Meer: Viele Wochen lang hat uns das Rauschen irgendeines Meeres begleitet, damit ist jetzt Schluss. Wir stehen lang an der Uferpromenade und hören einem Straßenmusikanten zu.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Farewell to the sea: For many weeks, we've been accompanied by the sounds, smells and views of some ocean or sea, that's going to be over now. We stand at the promenade for a long time, listening to a street musician.</span></div>
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<b><u>Samstag, 14. Juni:</u></b><br />
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Vicky hat heute Abend eine Vorstellung mit ihrer Tanztruppe, zu der wir sie begleiten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Vicky has a dance performance with her group tonight, so we accompany her.</span></div>
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<b><u>Sonntag, 15. Juni:</u></b><br />
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Hab ich schon erzählt, dass Daves Rasierer in Guatemala den Geist aufgegeben hat? Ja. Das war Ende März. Seitdem sind wir leider nie in einen größeren Ort gekommen, wo es solche Spezialgeräte käuflich zu erwerben gäbe… (*Hüstel*) Nun ist ihm lobenswerterweise selber aufgefallen, dass die überhängenden Oberlippenfransen die Nahrungsaufnahme erheblich beeinträchtigen - und er hat das Problem umgehend gelöst. Mit der Schere seines Taschenmessers.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Did I mention that Dave's shaver gave up the ghost in Guatemala? Yes. That was at the end of March. Unfortunately, we haven't been in a place big enough where they would sell special equipment like that… (*coughing slightly*) Now he finally realized himself that his upper lip whiskers interfere considerably with the ingestion of food - and he tackled the problem right away. With the scissors of his pocket knife.</span></div>
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Dave im Glück: Nach siebenwöchiger Abstinenz leistet er sich in Thessaloniki einen Besuch bei Starbucks.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Happy Dave: After seven weeks of abstinence, he treats himself to a visit at Starbucks in Thessaloniki.</span></div>
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<b><u>Montag, 16. Juni:</u></b><br />
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Dean begleitet uns bis zum Stadtrand von Thessaloniki, von nun an sind wir quasi auf dem Heimweg. Ein komisches Gefühl irgendwie, aufregend und traurig zugleich. Die Hitze (46º C), die lange Radlpause seit letzten Sonntag und der hartnäckige Muskelkater von der Bergwanderung machen uns heute zu schaffen, obwohl das Terrain nicht schwer wäre. Ein Gewitter in der Nacht sorgt jedoch für Abkühlung, so dass wir richtig gut schlafen können.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dean accompanies us to the edge of Thessaloniki, from then on we're kind of like homebound. Feels weird somehow, exciting and sad at the same time. The heat (46º C), the long break from cycling since last sunday and the stubborn muscle ache from the hike take it out of us today although the terrain wouldn't be hard at all. A thunder shower cools down the air at night though, and so at least we get a good sleep.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 68 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 19,37 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: an der Straße bei Kalindria</div>
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<b><u>Dienstag, 17. Juni:</u></b></div>
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Die Grenzstadt Doirani ist wesentlich kleiner als in der Karte eingezeichnet, nicht mal eine Bäckerei gibt es hier. Trotzdem lohnt sich der Umweg am See entlang; wir fahren durch lauter kleine ruhige Dörfer und können nach Mazedonien hinüberschauen.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">The border town of Doirani is way smaller than our map shows, it doesn't even have a bakery. The detour along the lake still pays off; we ride through a number of small quiet villages and can look over to Macedonia from here.</span></div>
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Am Nachmittag holt uns dieses Gewitter ein, so dass wir ein paar unfreiwillige Pausen unter Vordächern und Tankstellen einlegen müssen.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">This thunder storm catches up to us in the afternoon so that we are forced to take a few breaks under roofs and petrol stations.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 70 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 18,47 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: an der Straße bei Neo Petritsi<br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 18. Juni:</u></b><br />
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In der Nacht haben wir wieder Sturm und heftigen Regen, und beim Zeltabbau am Morgen entdecken wir alle möglichen Viecher, die unter unserer Plane Schutz gefunden haben: diese knallorange Spinne, einen Frosch, unzählige Heuschrecken usw. </div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">There's another thunderstorm in the night, and when we take the tent down in the morning, we discover all the creatures that have been seeking asylum underneath our tarp: this bright orange spider, a frog, countless grass hoppers and so on.</span></div>
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Da wir nicht genau wissen, was in Bulgarien auf uns zukommt, kaufen wir in Petritsi Proviant für die nächsten zwei Tage und machen uns dann auf Richtung Grenze. Schwermütig nehmen wir Abschied von Griechenland - was für eine geile Zeit wir hier hatten! Die Einreise nach Bulgarien verläuft erwartungsgemäß problemlos - und dann stehen wir plötzlich wieder mal in einem neuen Land, von dem wir beide keine Ahnung haben.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Since we don't know what exactly lies ahead in Bulgaria, we buy groceries for the next two days in Petritsi before heading towards the border. It's a melancholic farewell to Greece, we had such an awesome time here! Entering Bulgaria is easy as expected - and then we suddenly find ourselves in yet another country that we know nothing about.</span></div>
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Zum Schluss eine Hommage an die griechischen Bäckereien, unser landesweites Überraschungshighlight. Absolutes Lieblingsstück ist so eine Vanillequarkblätterteigtasche, warm mit Zimtzucker bestreut serviert. Wir kommen wieder, keine Frage!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At the end, an homage to the Greek bakeries, our countrywide surprise highlights. Absolute favourite is the custard pie, served warm with sugar and cinnamon. We'll be back, without doubt!</span></div>
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Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Promachonas 623 00, Greece41.3634487 23.35931210000001141.3515312 23.339142100000011 41.3753662 23.379482100000011tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-29368662394872240782014-05-29T23:11:00.001-07:002014-05-29T23:28:30.986-07:00Peloponnes<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Samstag, 17. Mai:</u></b></div>
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Eigentlich wollten wir heute weiterfahren; haben schon alle Taschen gepackt und die Radlsachen an, als wir in den Gepäckraum des Hotels gehen und bemerken, dass mein Vorderreifen platt ist. Das Felgenband ist wohl durch die Hitze in den letzten Monaten geschrumpft, und hat den Schlauch an der Seite eingezwickt. Es folgt eine Einkaufstour quer durch Athen: Fahrradläden abklappern auf der Suche nach einem neuen Felgenband und ein paar Schläuchen. Danach die Reparatur in besagtem Gepäckraum, wo alle 60 Sekunden das Licht ausgeht, sodass ich gezwungen bin, für Dave vor dem Bewegungsmelder zu tanzen. Ein herrlicher Spaß!</div>
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Unseren zusätzlichen Nachmittag in Athen verbringen wir mit unserem Lieblingsspiel in fremden Großstädten: Absichtliches Verlaufen. Ohne auf die Karte zu schauen, biegen wir wahllos in irgendwelche Straßen ein und schauen, wo wir rauskommen. Fazit: Den Grundtenor der meisten Reiseberichte über Athen, es sei eine riesige und hässliche Betonwüste und ersticke im Smog, können wir nicht teilen. Uns gefällt es hier!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">We had planned to continue riding today; all the bags are packed and we are ready to go when we go into the luggage room of the hotel and notice that my front tire is flat. Looks like the rim tape has shrunk with the heat in the past months, and pinched the tube on the side. In the following, there's a shopping tour all over Athens: combing bike shops for a new rim tape and a few tubes. Afterwards, the repair in aforementioned luggage room where the light goes out every 60 seconds so that I'm forced to dance in front of the motion detector for Dave. What a fun that is!</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our extra afternoon in Athens is spent with our favourite game in unfamiliar cities: getting lost. Without looking at the map, we aimlessly turn into random streets curious where we're going to end up. Conclusion: We cannot agree with most travel reviews saying Athens is a huge and ugly concrete jungle suffocating in smog - we like it here!</span><br />
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Nachtlager: **Hotel Marina in Athen</div>
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<b><u>Sonntag, 18. Mai:</u></b></div>
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Wir belagern den Aufzug im Hotel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Blocking the elevator in the hotel.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iHWFTtMBzBE/U4dsG4QZJZI/AAAAAAAAHog/59Pa1wMwsHA/s1600/CIMG0843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iHWFTtMBzBE/U4dsG4QZJZI/AAAAAAAAHog/59Pa1wMwsHA/s1600/CIMG0843.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Die Landschaft zwischen Athen und Korinth hätte durchaus großes Potential. Doch leider sieht man die kleinen, tiefblauen Buchten und felsigen Abhänge nur selten zwischen all den Ölraffinerien, die sich hier aneinanderreihen. Hier ein Schiffswrack, die einzige "Sehenswürdigkeit".<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The area between Athens and Corinth has a lot of potential. Unfortunately though, you don't see much of the small deep blue bays and rocky cliffs between all the oil refineries lining the coast. Here's a shipwreck, the only "attraction".</span></div>
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Deshalb schlagen wir gleich zu, als wir kurz vor dem Kanal von Korinth einen Eukalyptuswald entdecken, in den anscheinend schon länger kein Mensch mehr einen Fuß gesetzt hat: Wer weiß, ob wir heute nochmal so ein sauberes und friedliches Fleckchen finden?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">That's why we don't think twice when we discover a eucalyptus forest which looks like nobody ever goes in there. Who knows if we'll find another clean and peaceful campspot like this today?</span></div>
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Nach dem Zeltaufbau fahren wir nach Isthmia zum Abendessen und genehmigen uns zu meinem Geburtstag ein Eis.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">After pitching the tent, we ride to Isthmia for dinner and treat ourselves to an ice cream for my birthday.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 86,14 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,46 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: Wald bei Isthmia</div>
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<b><u>Montag, 19. Mai:</u></b></div>
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Der sechs Kilometer lange Kanal von Korinth, erbaut 1881 - 1893, trennt die Halbinsel Peloponnes vom Festland.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The Corinth Canal, six kilometres long and built from 1881 to 1893, divides the peninsula of Peloponnes from the mainland.</span></div>
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80 Meter geht's da runter - ein beliebter Platz zum Bungee Jumping!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's 80 metres down to the water - a popular place for bungee jumping!</span><br />
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Blick auf die Überreste des Antiken Korinth.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The remains of ancient Corinth.</span><br />
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Als wir in Mykene ankommen, ist es bereits zu spät für eine Besichtigung der Burg, deshalb campen wir in einem Olivenhain hinter dem Besucherzentrum.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">When we arrive in Mycenae, it's already too late for visiting the acropolis. So we camp in an olive grove behind the visitors' centre.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 47,85 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 14,38 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Feld bei Mykene (Oliven-Camp II.)<br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 20. Mai:</u></b><br />
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Am Morgen weckt uns ein Bauarbeiter, dem es unglaublich Leid tut, uns vertreiben zu müssen, aber er werde hier gleich irgendwelche Untersuchungen mit radioaktivem Material machen, da sollten wir lieber nicht zu nahe sein. Außerdem warnt er uns vor den Vipern im Gras… Okay!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">A construction worker wakes us up in the morning, telling us he's really sorry to drive us out of our camp but he's going to do some examinations with radioactive material here and we shouldn't be too close. Plus, he's warning us of vipers living in the grass… Okay!</span></div>
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Die Ruinen der mykenischen Oberstadt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The ruins of the high city of Mycenae.</span></div>
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Löwentor.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lion gate.</span><br />
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Gräberring.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Grave ring.</span><br />
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Schon allein die Aussicht ist den steilen Anstieg auf die Burg wert!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The view itself is worth the steep climb to the citadel!</span><br />
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Treppe hinunter zur Zisterne. Leider hatten wir unsere Stirnlampen nicht dabei.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Stairs down into the cistern. Too bad we didn't bring our head lamps!</span></div>
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Heuschrecke.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Grass hopper.</span><br />
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Eingang zum Schatzhaus des Atreus, einem riesigen <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Schatzhaus_des_Atreus,_Querschnitt.jpg" target="_blank">Kuppelgrab</a> von etwa 1250 v. Chr.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Entrance to the treasury of Atreus, a giant <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Schatzhaus_des_Atreus,_Querschnitt.jpg" target="_blank">beehive tomb</a> built around 1250 B.C.</span><br />
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Im Schatzhaus.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Inside the tomb.</span><br />
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Auf der Weiterfahrt sehen wir immer wieder antike Ruinen, wie etwa dieses Theater in Argos.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Continuing our ride, we see many ancient ruins along the way, like this theatre in Argos.</span></div>
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Kurz nach Myli treffen wir auf Caroline und Antony aus Frankreich, die wir bis Paralio Astros begleiten, wo wir nur kurz was zusammen trinken, bevor wir uns verabschieden müssen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Just after Myli, we meet Caroline and Antony from France, and we accompany them to Paralio Astros where we have a quick drink together before saying goodbye.</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">Die beiden haben bereits ein Quartier organisiert, Dave und ich suchen uns einen Zeltplatz am Strand. Zunächst kochen wir und warten, bis es dunkel wird, bevor wir das Zelt aufbauen und baden gehen!</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000; text-align: justify;">The two of them have arranged a place to stay already, Dave and I look for a campspot on the beach. First, we cook dinner and wait until it gets dark, then we set up the tent and take a bath!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 52,76 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,13 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: am Strand von Paralio Astros (Irgendwann-bleib-I-dann-dort-Camp II.)</div>
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 21. Mai:</u></b><br />
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Kalter Kaffee in seiner schönsten Form: Frappé, griechisches Nationalgetränk.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Cold coffee at its best: Frappé, Greek national drink.</span></div>
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Schafe und Ziegen haben sich diese Kirche eingeheimst.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sheep and goats have taken over this church.</span><br />
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An der Ostküste von Peloponnes radeln wir heute durch eine perfekte Postkartenidylle nach der anderen, einfach traumhaft!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On the east coast of Peloponnes, we ride through one perfect postcard landscape after the other, it's like a dream!</span></div>
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Kurz nach Paralia Tyrou holen uns Antony und Caroline ein, und gemeinsam fahren wir bis Leonidio, wo sich unsere Wege trennen: Die beiden fahren weiter an der Küste entlang, während Dave und ich abbiegen Richtung Westen in die Berge.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Antony and Caroline catch up with us just after Paralia Tyrou, so we ride to Leonidio together. Our ways part there because the two of them continue riding along the coast while Dave and I turn west into the mountains.</span></div>
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Wir fahren bis nach Sonnenuntergang, um die nun angenehm kühle Luft auszunutzen. Die Landschaft ist wieder mal unbeschreiblich schön!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We ride until after sunset, using the pleasantly cool air to get some distance. The landscape is incredibly beautiful once again!</span></div>
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Unser heutiger Zeltplatz.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our campspot tonight.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 62,71 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 14,15 km/h<br />
neuer Geschwindigkeitsrekord: 65 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: an einer Seitenstraße<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 22. Mai:</u></b><br />
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Ein anstrengender Tag! Fünf Stunden brauchen wir für die ersten 23 Kilometer nach Kosmas, wunderschön auf 1100 Metern gelegen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">A hard day! It takes us five hours to ride the 23 kilometres to Kosmas, a place located idyllically on 1100 metres.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zum Vergrößern anklicken / <span style="color: #cc0000;">Click to enlarge picture</span></td></tr>
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Eine der vielen Stellen, an denen man steht und es beim Blick zurück nicht fassen kann, es hier hoch geschafft zu haben!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">One of many places where you take a break, and looking back you cannot fathom you actually made it up here!</span></div>
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Stadtplatz von Kosmas. Wir machen zwei Stunden Pause und rollen dann auf der anderen Seite steil bergab.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Town square in Kosmas. We rest for two hours before rolling down again on the other side of the mountain.</span></div>
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Riesenkäfer auf der Straße nach Goritsa (Körperlänge etwa 7 Zentimeter!)<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Giant beetle on the road to Goritsa (body length around 7 centimetres!)</span><br />
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In Goritsa sind wir mit Dimosthenis verabredet, bei dem wir heute duschen und übernachten dürfen. Er holt uns in einem Café ab und bringt uns zum Haus seiner Eltern, die uns freundlich empfangen und sogar bekochen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We've arranged a Warmshowers host in Goritsa for tonight. Dimosthenis meets us in a cafe and takes us back to his parents' house where we are welcomed very friendly and even cooked for!</span></div>
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Griechische Tastatur. Eine Herausforderung der besonderen Art!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Greek keyboard. A challenge of its own!</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 53,78 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 10,86 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: bei Dimosthenis in Goritsa (Warmshowers IX.)</div>
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<b><u>Freitag, 23. Mai:</u></b></div>
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Leider sind Dimos Eltern schon in der Arbeit, als Dave und ich aufstehen. Aber seht mal, was sie alles für uns zum Mitnehmen hergerichtet haben: Kuchen, Brot, Oliven, Olivenöl, Zitronen, eingeschweißtes Fleisch, Oregano… was ihr Bauernhof eben hergibt! Auf dem Zettel steht "im Kühlschrank ist Joghurt".<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When Dave and I get up, we're sad to discover that Dimo's parents are at work already. But look what they've prepared for us to take on the road: cake, bread, olives, olive oil, lemons, meat, oregano… everything their farm produces! On the note it says "there's yoghurt in the fridge".</span></div>
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Weiterfahrt Richtung Sparta.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On the way towards Sparta.</span><br />
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Ein schönes Bild: Vorne reife Orangen, hinten schneebedeckte Berge.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Nice picture: ripe oranges in the front, snow covered mountains in the back. </span><br />
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Ein bisschen Geschmack für unser Wasser!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">A bit of flavour for our water!</span><br />
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Der Ort Mystras.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The town of Mystras.</span><br />
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Blick zurück nach Sparta (hellgrauer Fleck).<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View back down to Sparta (light grey spot).</span><br />
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Diesen Berg kämpfen wir uns hoch, um die byzantinische Bergfestung Mystras zu besichtigen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We have to work really hard in order to visit the Byzantine fortress of Mystras all the way up there!</span></div>
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Fresko im Peribleptoskloster (1348-1380)<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Fresco in the Peribleptos Monastery (1348-1380)</span><br />
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Kleine Votivtäfelchen aus Blech.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Little metal prayer offerings.</span><br />
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Über den Ruinen der antiken Stadt thront die 1249 von Wilhelm II. von Villehardouin erbaute Festung Mistra.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The fortress of Mistra, built in 1249 by William II. of Villehardouin, sits enthroned above the ruins of the ancient town.</span></div>
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Auf der Burgmauer sitzend hat man einen grandiosen Blick über die Gegend.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sitting on the fortress wall, you can enjoy a marvellous 360</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; line-height: 22px;"><span style="color: #cc0000;">° </span></span><span style="color: #cc0000;">view.</span><br />
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Nach diesen Eindrücken ist es bereits sehr spät, wir rollen nur noch ein paar Kilometer talwärts und finden eine gemähte Wiese für die Nacht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After these impressions, it's getting very late already, so we just roll downhill for a few kilometres and find a mown green-field for the night.</span></div>
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Zum Abendessen lassen wir uns die Köstlichkeiten von Dimos Eltern schmecken!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">For dinner, we savour the delicacies we brought from Dimo's house!</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 35,54 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 12,05 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Wiese in einem Dorf nahe Trypi<br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 24. Mai:</u></b><br />
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Und gleich nochmal ein Pass, diesmal auf 1300 Metern. Vier Stunden harte Arbeit, danach geht's runter an die Küste.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And another pass, this time 1300 metres high. Four hours of hard word, then it's all downhill to the coast.</span></div>
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Geschafft! Ein toller Blick von ganz oben belohnt uns für die Mühen. Die Landschaft hier ist total schön und sauber, und noch dazu gibt es viele schattige Plätzchen und Trinkwasserbrunnen, an denen wir unsere Flaschen auffüllen und T-Shirts tränken.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Done! A great view from the top is our reward for the climb. The landscape around here is beautiful and very clean, and on top of that, we find many shadowy spots and drinking fountains where we fill our bottles and soak our t-shirts.</span></div>
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Kurz vor Kalamata noch ein Aufstieg, doch die fünf Serpentinen schauen gröber aus als sie sind.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Just before Kalamata, there's another climb. But the five switch backs look more grim than they are.</span></div>
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Geschafft!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Done!</span><br />
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Der erste Blick auf Kalamata. Wir finden eine geeignete Stelle am Strand mitten in der Stadt, wo wir nach Einbruch der Dunkelheit unser Zelt aufstellen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">First glimpse of Kalamata. We find a suitable place on the beach right in town where we pitch our tent after dark.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 58,93 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 12,81 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: Strand in Kalamata (Irgendwann-bleib-I-dann-dort-Camp III.)</div>
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<b><u>Sonntag, 25. Mai:</u></b></div>
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Sehr entspannter Morgen am Strand: Wir sind die ersten Leute im Wasser, unbezahlbar! Kein Mensch stört sich an dem großen Zelt mitten auf dem sich füllenden Strand - bis Mittag liegen wir faul in der Sonne.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Very relaxed morning at the sea: We are the first people in the water, priceless! Nobody seems to be bothered by the big tent on the beach which is filling with people now - we laze in the sun until noon.</span></div>
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Dann kommen zwei Männer auf uns zu, die uns nur eben Bescheid sagen, dass sie in etwa einer Stunde mit dem Fallschirm hier landen wollen. Sie würden uns raten, ein bisschen zur Seite zu rücken, damit sie unsere Sachen nicht kaputt machen…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Then two men approach us, telling us they're going to land a parachute here in like one hour. They would recommend to move our tent over to the side a bit so that they don't smash our stuff...</span></div>
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Mittagspause bis 15 Uhr, danach Kaffeepause bis 18 Uhr. Das nenne ich mal einen Ruhetag!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lunch break until 3 pm, then coffee break until 6 pm. That's what we call a rest day!</span></div>
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Auch heute sind wir wieder mit einem Warmshowers-Gastgeber verabredet. Zufällig kommt Filopimin gerade nach Hause, als wir die Hausnummer suchen. Nach dem Duschen schmieden wir Reisepläne und sitzen dann bis spät auf dem Balkon, von wo aus sich wunderbar das Nachtleben unten an der Strandpromenade beobachten lässt…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We've arranged a Warmshowers host again for tonight. Filopimin arrives home just when we try to find the house number. After taking a shower, we plan our route and then sit on the balcony until late, watching the nightlife along the sea promenade...</span></div>
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Nachtlager: bei Filopimin in Kalamata (Warmshowers X.)<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 26. Mai:</u></b><br />
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Wäsche- und Ruhetag in Kalamata. Wir schwimmen im Meer, gehen spazieren und ratschen wieder bis in die Nacht auf Filopimins Balkon…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Laundry and rest day in Kalamata. We go swimming in the sea, walk to the lighthouse and sit on Filopinin's balcony again, chatting into the night...</span></div>
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Einer der Sonnenschirme funktioniert nicht!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Why does the first umbrella not work?</span><br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 27. Mai:</u></b><br />
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Abschied von Filopimin. Landschaftlich ist die Strecke heute weniger reizvoll, drum gibt's auch keine Bilder.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Saying goodbye to Filopimin. The ride today is not very scenic so there are no pictures.</span></div>
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Am Abend folgen wir der Beschilderung zu irgendwelchen Dünen und landen zwischen mehreren Wassermelonenfeldern und Sanddünen mit Blick auf das Schloss Paleokastro, gerade rechtzeitig zum Sonnenuntergang.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the evening, we follow the signs to some dunes and end up between several water melon fields and sand dunes with view to the Paleokastro castle, just in time for sunset.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 65 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 15,31 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: Dünen über der Voidokilia-Bucht bei Petrochori (Irgendwann-bleib-I-dann-dort-Camp IV.)</div>
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 28. Mai: </u></b></div>
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Die Nationalstraße parallel zur Westküste von Peloponnes ist einfach nur hässlich, und ganz offensichtlich streikt hier die Müllabfuhr, denn rund um die öffentlichen Abfallcontainer türmen sich stinkende Plastiksäcke. Ein Blick auf die Landkarte zeigt, dass alle Panoramastrecken auf der Osthälfte der Halbinsel sind. Wir fahren schnell und fast ohne Pausen Richtung Norden…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The national road paralleling the west coast of Peloponnes is nothing but ugly, and obviously the garbage collection service is on strike because there are stinking plastic bags all around the public garbage containers. One look into the map shows that all the scenic routes are on the east part of the peninsula. We ride fast and hardly take any breaks on our way north...</span></div>
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Das einzige Fotoobjekt ist dieses Highlight griechischer Architektur, das ein unbedeutender Ingenieur irgendwo in Frankreich nachgebaut hat.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The only picture opportunity is this highlight of Greek architecture which has been copied by an insignificant engineer somewhere in France.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 100,29 km (mein neuer Rekord!)</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,2 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: in einem Feld an der Straße (Oliven-Camp III.)</div>
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 29. Mai:</u></b></div>
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Dave beim Zeltabbau heute Morgen. Ansonsten gibt es keine Fotos, denn wieder geht es schnell und fast pausenlos Richtung Norden. Zwischen Pyrgos und Patra hat die Nationalstraße wenigstens einen brauchbaren Seitenstreifen, und der Rückenwind bläst uns richtig vorwärts. Juchu!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave taking down the tent this morning. Other than that, there are no pictures, because once again we just put our feet down heading north. Between Pyrgos and Patra, at least there's a good shoulder to ride on, and we've got a strong wind in our backs so we're flying. Woohoo!</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 106,55 km (mein allerneuester Rekord!)</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 22,5 km/h (auch das ist Rekord)</div>
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Nachtlager: **Hotel El Greco in Patra</div>
Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Patras, Greece38.2466395 21.73457400000006638.14688 21.573212500000064 38.346399 21.895935500000068tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-5249767465968609202014-05-16T22:04:00.001-07:002018-06-01T00:08:33.188-07:00Thessaloniki bis Athen<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Mittwoch, 7. Mai:</u></b></div>
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Abschied von Dean, Vicky und Deans Eltern.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Saying good-bye to Dean, Vicky and Dean's parents.</span><br />
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Da wir nach dem gemeinsamen Frühstück noch packen und einkaufen müssen, ist es bereits 14 Uhr, als wir Thessaloniki verlassen. Zunächst geht's auf dem Seitenstreifen der Autobahn entlang Richtung Athen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Since we have to pack up and buy groceries after breakfast, it's already 2 pm when we leave Thessaloniki. At first, we ride towards Athens on the shoulder of the highway.</span></div>
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Was für ein Service: Alle Verkehrsschilder sind zweisprachig!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">What a service: bilingual traffic signs!</span></div>
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Die Landschaft spricht wieder mal für sich…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The scenery is just beautiful!</span><br />
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Neben einem Lastwagen versteckt mogeln wir uns durch zwei Mautstationen, bevor wir bei Methoni endlich auf eine ruhige und idyllische Nebenstraße abbiegen können, die direkt am Meer entlangführt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Hiding next to a truck, we sneak through two toll stations before we finally turn onto a quiet and idyllic side road right next to the Aegean Sea.</span></div>
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Es geht flott und unkompliziert vorwärts, und unsere Beine scheinen sich nach der zweimonatigen Radlabstinenz überraschend gut daran zu erinnern, was zu tun ist - die Arme dagegen jammern gewaltig!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our progress is quick and uncomplicated, and our legs seem to remember what needs to be done surprisingly well after their two months break. The arms on the other hand are super sore!</span></div>
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Unser heutiges Nachtlager. Herz, was willst du mehr?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our camp spot tonight. What more could you possibly wish for?</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 52,12 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16, 03 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: abgelegene Wiese mit Meerblick (Irgendwann-bleib-I-dann-durt-Camp I.)<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 8. Mai:</u></b></div>
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Gemütliches Frühstück mit Meerblick.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Relaxed breakfast with sea view.</span><br />
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Klare Beschilderungen ;-)<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Clear signposting ;-)</span><br />
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Der alte "Highway", auf dem wir die Westseite der Ägäis hinunterradeln, ist zwischen der neuen Autobahn und dem Bahngleis eingezwängt. Nicht besonders fototauglich, aber schnurgerade und bretteleben. Zu unserer Rechten sehen wir die meiste Zeit den Olymp.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The old highway we're riding on along the westside of the Aegean Sea, is wedged between the new highway and the train tracks. Not very photogenic but dead straight and absolutely flat. And on our right, we get to see Mount Olympus most of the time.</span></div>
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Auf der Karte sah es so aus, als würden wir die Burg Platamonas umrunden. Aber tatsächlich geht es erst 16% steil bergauf und auf der anderen Seite wieder runter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On the map it looked like we were going to ride around the Platamonas Castle. But in reality, we have to climb the 16% hill up to the top only to roll down on the other side.</span></div>
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Schluss für heute. Wir campen hinter einem Fußballfeld in dem Örtchen Neoi Pori. Alle Hotels sind noch verbarrikadiert, die Straßen menschenleer, aber in "unserem" Froschbiotop herrscht die ganze Nacht Partystimmung!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">That's it for today. We camp behind a soccer field in Neoi Pori. All the hotels are still barricaded and the roads deserted, but "our" frog biotope is where all the action is all night!</span></div>
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Das Gute daran ist, dass wir mückentechnisch relativ glimpflich davonkommen.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">The good thing about it is that we hardly get attacked by mosquitoes.</span></div>
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Nur ganz schwer zu erkennen sind die beiden Frösche.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Very hard to see but there are two frogs flirting here.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 68,45 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 14,81 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Feuchtbiotop in Neoi Pori<br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 9. Mai:</u></b><br />
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Weiterfahrt durch alle möglichen kleinen Dörfer. Hier das Anwesen eines Sportfanatikers, der seiner Leidenschaft mit kunstvoll angebrachten Muscheln Ausdruck verleiht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, we continue riding through all sorts of small villages. This is the property of a sports freak who expresses his passion by arranging and painting sea shells on the walls.</span></div>
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Die Landschaft hier ist wunderschön und die ruhigen Nebenstraßen perfekt für eine Fahrradtour, aber die Beschilderung ist manchmal etwas irreführend, so dass wir sehr oft fragen müssen und einmal auf einer rumpeligen Feldstraße enden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The landscape in this area is marvellous and the secondary (rather tertiary, actually) highways are perfect for bike touring. But the signposting is so misleading in some places that we have to ask for directions a lot and one time, we even end up on a very bumpy farm road.</span></div>
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Eine Schildkröte am Wegrand.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Tortoise at the side of the road.</span><br />
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Geschafft! Der höchste Punkt des Tages liegt nur auf 200 Metern Höhe, aber im Moment sind wir leider noch etwas aus der Form. Und außerdem haben wir uns die Schinderei umsonst angetan, denn von hier oben sehen wir, dass eine Küstenstraße um den Berg herumführt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Done! The highest point of today is only at 200 metres altitude but right now we're a little bit out of shape. Besides, the whole grind was totally pointless because there's a coastal road leading AROUND the hill, as we can see from up here!</span></div>
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Am Strand von Kato Sotiritsa nehmen wir ein mehr als notwendiges und erfrischendes Bad im Meer, bevor wir direkt an Ort und Stelle unser Zelt aufbauen.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">We take a more than necessary and refreshing bath in the sea before setting up our tent right on the beach of Kato Sotiritsa.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 51,88 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 13,82 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Strand von Kato Sotiritsa (Irgendwann-bleib-I-dann-durt-Camp II.)<br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 10. Mai:</u></b><br />
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Aufbruchsstimmung. Frühstücken wollten wir heute eigentlich in einem der Cafés gleich im Ort, aber das gestaltet sich etwas schwieriger als gedacht. Die laute Musik, die aus den geöffneten Türen dringt, ist lediglich zur Unterhaltung der Angestellten, die den Frühjahrsputz erledigen. Kaffee könnten wir ausnahmsweise haben, Frühstück gibt's erst im Juni. Eine vorbeigehende Frau erkennt unsere Not und nimmt uns mit zur Bäckerei…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Atmosphere of departure. We had planned to have breakfast in one of the cafés in the village but that turns out to be harder than expected. The loud music coming out of the open doors is only meant to entertain the staff doing their spring clean-up. They tell us we could have coffee as a special exception, but they will only have food in June. A woman passing by realizes our situation and takes us to the bakery...</span></div>
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Wieder ein Tag voller kleiner Bauerndörfer, aber diesmal geht es ausschließlich flach dahin zwischen Getreidefeldern und Obstplantagen. In Kalamaki treffen wir auf drei Reiseradler aus Deutschland, aber das Tempo dieser leichtbepackten Rentner können wir nicht halten…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Another day full of little farm villages, crop fields and fruit plantations, but this time the route is flat. In Kalamaki, we meet three touring cyclists from Germany but those lightly packed senior citizens are way to fast for us...</span></div>
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Ankunft in Volos am Abend. Sonnenuntergang ist zur Zeit kurz nach 20 Uhr, was uns einen richtig langen Radltag erlaubt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Arrival in Volos in the evening. At the moment, the sun goes down just after 8 pm which allows us a nice and long riding day.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 99,45 km (mein persönlicher Rekord!)<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,98 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Admitos in Volos<br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 11. Mai:</u></b><br />
Ruhetag in Volos.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Rest day in Volos.</span><br />
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Wir machen einen Stadt- und Hafenspaziergang, bestellen eine schöne große griechische Grillplatte zum Mittagessen und reservieren für morgen zwei Plätze für den Bus nach Athen. Aber nicht, dass ihr denkt, wir haben schon wieder genug vom Fahrradfahren: Ich muss/ darf nur schnell am Mittwoch nach München fliegen zu einem Termin, danach geht's von Athen aus gleich wieder weiter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We go for a walk through the town and along the marina, order a big Greek mixed barbecue platter for lunch and reserve two seats for the bus to Athens tomorrow. But don't think that we're sick of cycling already: I just have to fly to Munich on Wednesday but I'll be back on Thursday to continue our trip from Athens.</span><br />
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Am Abend beobachten wir zum zweiten Mal diese Woche, wie ein Fußgänger ohne zu schauen die Straße überquert und über den Haufen gefahren wird.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the evening, we get to watch for the second time this week how a pedestrian is crossing the street without looking and being knocked over.</span></div>
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<b><u>Montag, 12. Mai:</u></b><br />
Busfahrt nach Athen: Die gesamte Autobahnstrecke ist gesäumt von blühenden Oleander- und Ginsterbüschen, dahinter wechseln sich schroffe Felsen, kleine Buchten, Getreidefelder und Olivenhaine ab.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Bus ride to Athens: The entire stretch of the highway is lined with blooming oleander and broom bushes, with rough rocks, small bays, crop fields and olive groves as a backdrop.</span><br />
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Unsere Lieblingsmethode zum Navigieren in fremden Großstädten: Wir planen die Route auf Google maps und fotografieren Ausschnitte davon direkt vom Computerbildschirm. Vor Ort zücke ich dann nur schnell die Kamera, schaue die Fotos an und lösche sie nacheinander.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our favourite method of navigating through unfamiliar cities: We plan the route on Google maps and take pictures of it directly from the monitor. On the spot, I just take out the camera, look at the pictures and delete them as we go.</span><br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 13. Mai:</u></b><br />
Orientierungsspaziergang in Athen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Orientational walk through Athens.</span><br />
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In und vor der Markthalle herrscht ein kaum zu beschreibendes Gewurl, akustisch umrahmt von den Marktschreiern und Rollerhupen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In and around the Central Market there's an indescribable hustling and bustling, accompanied by the vendors' shouting and scooters honking.</span><br />
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Antiquitäten- und Kuriositätengeschäft. Diese vollgestopfte Wendeltreppe geht bis in den dritten Stock.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Shop for antiques and curiosities. This crammed spiral staircase continues to the fourth floor.</span><br />
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Dave mit einer Baglamas, der kleinsten Schwester der Bouzouki. <br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave holding a Baglamas, the smallest sister of the Bouzouki.</span><br />
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Auch frisches Obst und Gemüse gibt's auf dem Markt, selbstverständlich perfekt aufgetürmt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the market, you can also buy fresh fruits and vegetables of course, built to perfect pyramids.</span><br />
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Und wieder ein Musikgeschäft.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And another music shop.</span><br />
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Kurioses Miteinander von antiker Bau- und moderner Graffitikunst.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Odd combination of antique architecture and modern graffiti.</span><br />
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Das besterhaltene antike Bauwerk in Athen, der Turm der Winde: Wetterstation, Sonnenuhr, Wasseruhr.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The Tower of the Winds is the best-preserved antique building in Athens: weather station, sun dial and water metre.</span><br />
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Gleich ums Eck ist das Museum für Griechische Volksmusikinstrumente.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Just around the corner, we find the museum of popular Greek instruments.</span><br />
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Die meisten ausgestellten Instrumente kann man sich per Kopfhörer auch anhören.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">You can listen to most of the instruments displayed via head phones.</span><br />
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An jeder Ecke spielen hier Straßenmusikanten!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Street musicians everywhere!</span><br />
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Spaziergang im Nationalgarten direkt neben dem Parlamentsgebäude, das bis 1973 der königliche Palast war.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We take a walk in the National Garden which is right next to the Parliament, the former royal palace (until 1973).</span><br />
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Zum Abendessen gönnen wir uns heute eine Portion Kebab (oben) und gegrillte Lammripperl (unten).<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">For dinner, we treat ourselves to a portion of Kebab (top) and barbecued lamb ribs (bottom).</span><br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 16. Mai:</u></b><br />
Tag der Steinbrockenbesichtigung.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Let's have a look at some ancient rocks!</span><br />
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Geschäftstüchtige Gastronomen nutzen den Treppenaufgang zur Akropolis einfach als Biergarten / Straßencafé.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Smart restaurateurs use the steps to the Acropolis as their beer garden / street café.</span><br />
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Und los geht's! Obwohl es erst Mitte Mai ist, sind wir nicht die Einzigen, die auf die Idee gekommen sind, der antiken Athener Stadtfestung einen Besuch abzustatten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And here we are! Although it's only mid May, we are not the only people who decided to visit the old city fortress of Athens today.</span><br />
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Blick in das Odeon des Herodes Atticus, ein Theater für 5000 Zuschauer; im Hintergrund erstreckt sich der südliche Teil Athens bis zur Hafenstadt Piräus.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View into the Odeum of Herodes Atticus, a theatre for 5000 people; in the background, the southern part of Athens reaches to the port town of Piraeus. </span><br />
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Gleich fällt er um!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It'll fall over!</span><br />
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Blick hinüber zum Filopapposdenkmal auf dem Filopapposhügel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View to the Filopappos hill with the Filopappos monument.</span><br />
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Und endlich: Der Parthenon, mit seinen knapp 2500 Jahren das wohl bekannteste Bauwerk Griechenlands. Aber eben auch das rekonstruktionsbedürftigste: Das hier ist das einzige Foto ohne Kran, Gerüst, Bauarbeiter oder sonstige störende Details.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And finally: the Parthenon, nearly 2500 years old and probably the most famous building of Greece. Well, and the biggest fixer-upper around: This is the only picture without cranes, scaffolds, construction workers or any other disturbing details.</span><br />
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Die Realität sieht eher so aus, und zwar seit 1986.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Since 1986, reality looks more like this.</span><br />
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Regal mit nummerierten Steinbrocken, die hoffentlich irgendwann wieder an ihrem angestammten Platz eingesetzt werden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Shelf with numbered rocks which hopefully will be put into their old place at some time.</span><br />
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Rund um den Parthenon warten unzählige Marmorteile darauf, wieder Teil des Tempels zu werden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">All around the Parthenon, you find big chunks of marble waiting to become part of the temple again.</span><br />
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Das Erechtheion, dessen Vorhalle anstatt von Säulen von sechs überlebensgroßen Mädchenfiguren getragen wird.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The Erechtheion with its foyer being held by six larger-than-life girl statues instead of pillars.</span><br />
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Blick hinunter auf den Hadriansbogen und den Zeustempel (Gegenfoto weiter unten…)<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View down to Hadrian's Arch and the Temple of Olympian Zeus (opposite picture in the following…)</span><br />
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Das Dionysostheater von oben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Theatre of Dionysos from above.</span><br />
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Blick nach Norden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View to the North.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zum Vergrößern anklicken / <span style="color: #cc0000;">Click to enlarge picture</span></td></tr>
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Auch die Befestigungsmauer liegt teilweise in Trümmern neben ihrem eigentlichen Platz. Schaut euch mal die Nummer an!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The fortress wall also has some parts missing - check out the number on this one!</span><br />
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Eine mühselige und langsame Arbeit!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">What an arduous and slow job!</span><br />
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Noch störender als das Baustellenambiente sind die mit Trillerpfeifen bewaffneten Aufsichtspersonen, die jede auch noch so harmlose Ordnungswidrigkeit (Hüpfen, Essen, Rauchen, Berühren oder Besteigen der Ausstellungsstücke etc.) durch schrilles Pfeifen, Fuchteln und Schreien unterbinden.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">More annoying than the construction ambience though are the supervisors on site, armed with shrill-sounding whistles, who stop any kind of harmless infringements (jumping, eating, smoking, touching or climbing objects and so on) by whistling, waving and shouting at visitors.</span></div>
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Die alte Stadtmauer von außen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The old city wall from outside.</span><br />
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Kurze Pause im Dionysostheater.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Short break in the Theatre of Dionysos.</span><br />
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"Führen Sie sich anständig auf, berühren Sie keines der Ausstellungsstücke und lassen Sie die Objekte an ihrem Platz." Schade. Ich dachte, ich könnte mir eine der Figuren mitnehmen:<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Now that's too bad. I thought I could take one of the statues with me:</span><br />
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Blick zurück zur Akropolis unter dem Hadriansbogen hindurch…<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View back up to the Acropolis through Hadrian's Arch...</span><br />
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… und nochmal vom Zeustempel aus.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">… and again from the Temple of Zeus.</span><br />
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Der Zeustempel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Temple of Olympian Zeus.</span><br />
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Eine der Säulen liegt in Scheibchen am Boden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">One of the pillars lies on the ground in slices.</span><br />
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Wieder kurze Pause im Schatten. Heute sind wir schon einige Kilometer marschiert!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We take another brake in the shade. Today, we've already walked several kilometres!</span><br />
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Toll in Griechenland: Die meisten Orte haben frei zugängliche Trinkwasserbrunnen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Cool thing in Greece: There are free accessible drinking water fountains in most towns.</span><br />
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Schauplatz der ersten Olympischen Spiele der Neuzeit (1896): das Panathinaiko Stadion im Stadtzentrum von Athen für bis zu 80 000 Zuschauer.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In 1896, this was the scene of the first Olympic Games of modern age: the Panathinaikon Stadium in the centre of Athens, seating up to 80,000 spectators.</span><br />
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Keine architektonische Glanzleistung, aber eine ganz neue Erfahrung für Dave ist so eine öffentliche Toilette.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Not so much a brilliant achievement of architecture but a whole new experience for Dave: public toilet European style.</span><br />
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Kongresshalle<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Congress hall</span><br />
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Leicht vorzustellen, dass beim Bau der U-Bahn in Athen immer wieder archäologische Funde gemacht wurden, wie etwa dieses römische Bad.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">You can imagine quite easily that when they built the underground train in Athens, archaeologists were just as busy as construction workers. Here is a Roman thermal bath they found.</span><br />
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So hat es hier früher mal ausgesehen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This is how it used to look like!</span><br />
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Hunderte verschiedener Lampenschirme hängen über dieser Straße. Ob die in der Nacht tatsächlich als Straßenbeleuchtung dienen?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Hundreds of different lampshades are hanging above this street. Do they really serve as street lamps at night?</span><br />
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Wir können es selbst kaum glauben, aber es gibt mitten in Athen ein Graffitisprayerbedarfsgeschäft. Anscheinend ganz legal, gefragt haben wir allerdings nicht.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">We cannot believe it but there is a shop for graffiti sprayers in Athens, apparently legal but we didn't ask.</span></div>
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Mein persönliches Lieblingsbauwerk in Athen: eine moderne Stahl- und Glaskonstruktion mit "antiken" Balkonen. Cool, oder?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">My personal favourite building in Athens is this modern steel and glass construction with "antique" balconies. Isn't that cool?</span><br />
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Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com2Athens, Greece37.983917 23.72935989999996337.883804 23.567998399999961 38.08403 23.890721399999965tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-48297805493382383052014-05-07T22:39:00.000-07:002014-05-12T09:17:19.682-07:00Ευπρόσδεκτος στο Ελλάδα!<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Montag, 28. April:</u></b></div>
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Nach guten zwei Wochen Heimaturlaub für Dave geht es heute weiter mit <a href="http://woiperdinger-on-tour.blogspot.ca/p/plan-b.html" target="_blank">Plan B</a>.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">After just over two weeks of visiting Dave's family, we proceed with <a href="http://woiperdinger-on-tour.blogspot.ca/p/plan-b.html" target="_blank">Plan B</a> today.</span></div>
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Am Flughafen in Calgary zeigen wir dem freundlichen Herrn am Check-In-Schalter unser komplettes Gepäck und fragen, wie wir am günstigsten wegkommen. Danach verdrücken wir uns zwei Stunden lang mit unserer mitgebrachten Rolle Plastikfolie an die Seite und wickeln jeweils vier Satteltaschen zu einem Gepäckstück von maximal 32 kg zusammen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At the airport in Calgary, we show all our gear to the friendly gentleman at the Check-In and ask how we have to arrange it to get the best deal on it. Then we move to the side for two hours, making two 70 pound bundles of four panniers each, using a whole roll of shrink wrap.</span></div>
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<b><u>Dienstag, 29. April:</u></b><br />
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Vier Stunden Aufenthalt am Münchner Flughafen - perfekt für ein kleines Familientreffen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Four hours layover in Munich airport - perfect for a little family renunion!</span></div>
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Und endlich lernen wir unsere kleine Nichte Emma kennen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And we finally get to know our niece Emma!</span><br />
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Auf dem Weiterflug nach Griechenland ist der Chiemsee mit der Herreninsel schön zu sehen, danach wird es finster. Um 23 Uhr erreichen wir Thessaloniki, und an der Gepäckausgabe treffen wir auch schon Daves Freund Dean. Gut gelaunt fahren wir zu Deans Wohnung, wo wir seine Freundin Vicky aus dem Bett klingeln und den langen Tag bei griechischem Weißbier und deutschen Kinderriegeln (danke, Babsi!) ausklingen lassen.<br />
Was für ein gelungener Start in den neuen Abschnitt unserer Reise!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Just before it gets dark, we get to see the Lake Chiemsee with the famous castle on an island from the plane. At 11 pm, we arrive in Thessaloniki (Greece), and we meet Dave's friend Dean at the luggage claim. We're in a really happy mood when we drive to Dean's apartment where we wake up his girlfriend Vicky and finish the long day with Greek beer and German chocolate.</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">What a great start into the new leg of our journey!</span><br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 30. April:</u></b><br />
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Blick über Thessaloniki von Deans und Vickys Balkon.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View of Thessaloniki from Dean's and Vicky's balcony.</span><br />
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Apropos Balkon: Es scheint, als finde der Großteil des Lebens in Griechenland auf dem Balkon statt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Speaking of balconies: Seems like the majority of life in Greece is spent on balconies!</span><br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 1. Mai:</u></b><br />
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Feiertag in Griechenland - man trifft sich zum Picknick irgendwo im Freien. Dean und Vicky nehmen uns mit auf die Halbinsel Halkidiki, und trotz Jetlags können wir gar nicht genug bekommen von dieser farbenprächtigen und blumenübersähten Landschaft.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Holiday in Greece - people meet for picnics somewhere outdoors. Dean and Vicky take us to the peninsula of Halkidiki, and even though we're jet-lagged we cannot get enough of this colourful landscape strewn with flowers.</span><br />
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Die Schönheit dieser Gegend konnte die Regierung Griechenlands leider nicht davon abhalten, das unter dem Waldboden gefundene Gold an eine ausländische Frackingfirma zu verticken, um so der Wirtschaftskrise entgegenzuwirken.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Unfortunately, the beauty of this area couldn't stop the Greek government from selling the gold found underneath the forest soil to a foreign fracking company in order to counteract the economy crisis.</span><br />
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Eine Sauerei, so finden hunderte Familien, deren Trinkwasser aus dieser Gegend stammt, und haben sich deshalb zu einer Protestbewegung zusammengeschlossen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">A downright disgrace, think hundreds of families whose drinking water comes from this area, and so they've founded a protest movement.</span><br />
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Von daher ist das Feiertagspicknick in unserem Fall eher eine politische Demonstration, die von drei Busladungen schwer bewaffneter Polizisten argwöhnisch beäugt wird.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This is why in our case, the holiday picnic turns out to be a political demonstration, suspiciously watched by three bus loads of heavily armed policemen.</span><br />
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Alkoholfreie Getränke finden sich eher weniger.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Drinks without alcohol are the exception.</span><br />
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Wir werden von Familie zu Familie geschleust, und natürlich müssen wir überall die mitgebrachten Spezialitäten probieren, bis wir fast platzen. Mmmh!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We're dragged from family to family, and of course we have to try all the homemade specialties until we nearly burst. Mmmh!</span><br />
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Hausgemachte Hackfleischbällchen mit Tzatziki. Da kann man doch nicht nein sagen!!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Meatballs with tzatziki. You cannot say No to that!!</span><br />
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Vielleicht zwei Prozent der kilometerlangen Brennholzmauer, die zu dem bereits abgeholzten Frackinggebiet führt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Maybe two percent of the endless woodpile leading to the fracking area that has already been cleared.</span><br />
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Weiterfahrt auf der Halbinsel Halkidiki.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We continue exploring the peninsula.</span><br />
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Mit Dean und Vicky an einem Aussichtspunkt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At some view point with Dean and Vicky.</span><br />
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Rare Schönheit. Die meisten alten Häuser wurden bei einem Erdbeben zerstört.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Rare beauty. Most of the old buildings were destroyed by an earthquake.</span><br />
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Typische Kirche.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Typical church.</span><br />
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Nach Pazifik und Atlantik sitzen wir jetzt also am Mittelmeer!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After the pacific and the atlantic ocean, we now sit at the mediterranean sea!</span><br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 2. Mai:</u></b><br />
Dave und ich erkunden die Altstadt Thessalonikis auf eigene Faust.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I explore the old town of Thessaloniki on our own.</span><br />
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Parken in zweiter, dritter und sogar vierter Reihe. Kein Problem hier, man lässt einfach einen Zettel mit seiner Telefonnummer auf dem Armaturenbrett.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Two, three and even four cars parking closely behind each other. No problem here, just leave a note with your telephone number on the dashboard.</span><br />
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Antiker Unterbau der Stadt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Antique foundations of the city.</span><br />
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Die alte Stadtmauer dient teilweise als Rückwand für neue Wohnhäuser.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The old city wall sometimes serves as a back wall for new houses.</span><br />
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Öffentliche Toilette.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Public toilet.</span><br />
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Griechische Großbuchstaben hat Vicky gestern mit mir geübt, die kann ich jetzt entziffern.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Yesterday, Vicky taught me the capital letters of the Greek alphabet. I practice them with every sign I see.</span><br />
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Aber Kleinbuchstaben.... Keine Chance! Ich komme mir vor wie ein fünfjähriges Kind, das versucht, dem Gewirr von bekannten und unbekannten Zeichen irgendwelche Lautfolgen zu entlocken.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">But small letters... Not a chance! I feel like a five year old trying to make sense of the mixture of familiar and unfamiliar signs.</span><br />
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Seit über dreißig Jahren wird an dieser Kirche gebaut. Fehlt nicht mehr viel...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This church has been under construction for over thirty years. Nearly done...</span><br />
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Und wieder Leseübungen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And reading exercises again.</span><br />
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GR wie Germany, meint Dave ;-)<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">GR for Germany, says Dave ;-)</span><br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 3. Mai:</u></b><br />
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Großes gemeinsames Frühstück auf dem Balkon.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Breakfast on the balcony.</span><br />
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Danach bereiten Vicky und ich ein typisch griechisches Gericht zu: gefüllte Tomaten und Paprika.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Afterwards, Vicky and I make a typical Greek dish: stuffed tomatoes and peppers.</span><br />
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Sie lässt mich aus dem Kochbuch vorlesen. Oh Mann, das ist echt das Schwerste am Kochen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">She makes me read a paragraph from her cook book. Oh man, that's the hardest part of cooking!</span><br />
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Nach dem Kochen geht's ans Schreiben. Nach dieser einen Seite raucht mir ganz schön der Kopf!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After cooking, I have to write. After this one page, there's smoke coming out of my ears!</span><br />
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Am Abend gehen wir zum Treffen eines Freundes- und Bekanntenkreises, der sich wieder mal als politische Organisation herausstellt. Ohne Vorwarnung werden wir in allerhand heiße Diskussionen hineingezogen, die irgendwie immer entweder auf Angela Merkel oder den Zweiten Weltkrieg hinauslaufen... Ab sofort stelle ich mich als Österreicherin vor!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the evening, we go and meet a circle of friends which once again turns out to be a political organization. Without warning, we're drawn into several hot discussions which all somehow lead to either Angela Merkel or the Second World War... From now on, I'm going to introduce myself as an Austrian!</span><br />
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Die Stimmung beruhigt sich dank Dave jedoch schnell...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Thanks to Dave, the atmosphere calms down quickly...</span><br />
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... und später darf auch er zur Belustigung der Anwesenden was vorlesen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and later on, he also gets a chance to entertain some people by reading out loud some random words in Greek.</span><br />
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<b><u>Montag, 5. Mai:</u></b><br />
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Heute machen Dave und ich Besorgungen für unsere Weiterreise...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, Dave and I have to run some errands for our onward journey...</span><br />
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... und bauen die Fahrräder wieder zusammen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and build the bikes.</span><br />
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Sonnenuntergangsstimmung.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sunset.</span><br />
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Deans Mutter versorgt uns mit selbstgemachtem Kirschlikör und Plätzchen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dean's mom spoils us with her homemade cherry liqueur and cookies.</span><br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 6. Mai:</u></b><br />
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Spaziergang an der Uferpromenade.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Walking along the sea promenade.</span></div>
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Willkommen in Griechenland. Unsere ersten Eindrücke: würzig-frische Luft, Mohnblumen, Blätterteig, saubere Landschaft mit unzähligen Campingmöglichkeiten, wohlklingende aber absolut unverständliche Sprache, Knoblauch, Mülltrennung, Gastfreundschaft, Balkonkultur, Wasserstoffblondinen, Graffiti, konsequenter Boykott des Rauchverbots, schöne Kirchen, gutes Essen. Wir haben das Gefühl, hier sind wir richtig!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Welcome to Greece. Our first impressions: nice smells, poppies, phyllo pastries, clean landscapes with lots of camping spots, pleasant sounding but not understandable language, garlic, recycling, hospitality, balcony life, peroxide blondes, graffiti, consequent boycott of ban on smoking, beautiful churches, good food. We feel like we've made the right decision!</span><br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 7. Mai:</u></b><br />
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Auf geht's, packma's!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Ready, set, go!</span><br />
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Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Thessaloniki, Greece40.6400629 22.94441910000000540.5436439 22.783057600000003 40.736481899999994 23.105780600000006tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-74075240773309925662014-04-26T09:44:00.002-07:002014-05-04T04:49:16.200-07:00Calgary<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">Überraschung!!</span></i></b></div>
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Lange haben wir hin und her überlegt, wie wir unsere Reise fortsetzen wollen: Stur dem Plan folgen, auch wenn der Radlalltag an der Pazifikküste wenig mit unserer Vorstellung von sauberer Landschaft, gutem Essen und interessant<b><i>en</i></b> Kultur<b><i>en</i></b> (PLURAL!!) zu tun hat und wir unser großes Zelt mittlerweile fast nur noch zum Spaß rumschleppen? Heimfliegen und die Vorzüge von Kühlschrank, eigener Werkstatt und regelmäßigem Einkommen neuentdecken? Mittelamerika überspringen in der Hoffnung, weiter "unten" ist alles total anders? Oder vielleicht doch ganz was Neues... Mongolei, Norwegen, Australien??<br />
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<span style="color: #cc0000; font-size: large;"><b><i>Surprise!!</i></b></span></div>
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We've been thinking back and forth for a long time how we want to continue our journey: Stubbornly follow the plan even though the day-to-day reality of cycling along the pacific coast </span><span style="color: #cc0000;">has little to do with our expectations of clean landscapes, good food and different cultures</span><span style="color: #cc0000;"> and we only haul around our big tent for fun these days? Fly home and rediscover the benefits of a fridge, workshop and regular income? Skip Central America hoping that things are completely different further "down"? Or maybe something entirely new... Mongolia, Norway, Australia??</span></div>
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Als kleine Überraschung für Daves Schwester Jamie, die in wenigen Tagen ein Baby erwartet, und damit Dave mal wieder seine schwer vermissten Musikinstrumente zu sehen bekommt, machen wir über Ostern Zwischenstation in Calgary.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As a little surprise for Dave's sister Jamie who's going to have a baby in a few days, and in order for Dave to get to see his much craved-for musical instruments, we stop off in Calgary for Easter.</span></div>
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<b><u>Samstag, 12. April:</u></b></div>
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Abendessen bei Jamie und Eddie mit Sue und Wayne.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dinner at Jamie's and Eddie's with Sue and Wayne.</span><br />
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<b><u>Montag, 14. April:</u></b><br />
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Dave und ich machen einen Ausflug in die Rocky Mountains. Wir sind wohl die einzigen zwei Menschen in ganz Kanada, die sich nach so einem langen und kalten Winter immer noch über Schnee freuen können...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I drive into the Rocky Mountains. We're probably the only two people in Canada who still get excited about snow after such a long and cold winter...</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zum Vergrößern anklicken / <span style="color: #cc0000;">Click to enlarge picture</span></td></tr>
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Viel Schnee!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lots of snow!</span><br />
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Um 23:20 Uhr ruft Jamie an: Fruchtblase ist geplatzt, Eddie und sie sind auf dem Weg ins Krankenhaus. Dave und seine Mama machen sich ebenfalls auf den Weg...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At 11:20 pm Jamie phones us: The water is breaking, she and Eddie are on their way to the hospital. Dave and his Mom also go there...</span></div>
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<b><u>Dienstag, 15. April:</u></b></div>
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Um 2 Uhr früh erblickt Mia Ray per Kaiserschnitt das Licht der Welt. 2580 g leicht, 43 cm kurz, alles drin, alles dran. Herzlichen Glückwunsch, Jamie und Eddie!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At 2 am, Mia Ray sees the light of day after an emergency c-section. 5 lbs 11 oz light, 17" short but has all the right parts. Congratulations, Jamie and Eddie!</span><br />
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Am Nachmittag besuchen wir sie im Krankenhaus.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the afternoon, we visit them in the hospital.</span></div>
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 16. April bis Sonntag, 27. April:</u></b><br />
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Sobald sich unser Kurzbesuch rumspricht, haben wir zahlreiche Verwandtschaftsbesuche zu absolvieren: hier Daves Papa Terry mit seinen Brüdern...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Once the word of our stopover goes round, we've got numerous family reunions to attend: here's Dave's Dad Terry with his brothers...</span><br />
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... und mit seinen Jungs.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and with his boys.</span><br />
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Natürlich wollen uns alle Tanten und Onkeln von Dave zu Gesicht kriegen, bevor wir wieder weg sind - und so werden spontan große Familientreffen auf die Beine gestellt, und überall gibt es viel zu viel gutes Essen: Lang vermisste Steaks von Waynes Grill und geschmorte Hochrippe von Sue, saftigen Schweinebraten und einen Osterturkey bei Tante Nancy, Terrys berühmte Fischpflänzchen, Hühnchencurry bei Onkel Steven. Und. So. Weiter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Of course all the aunts and uncles want to see us before we take off again - and so they arrange all these big dinners where we feast on way too much good stuff: much craved-for steaks from Wayne's BBQ and braised prime rib from Sue, juicy ham roast and an Easter Turkey at aunt Nancy's, Terry's famous fish cakes, chicken curry at uncle Steven's. And. So. On.</span><br />
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Dave mit der kleinen Mia.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave with little Mia.</span><br />
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Brunch mit Sues Bruder Al und Tante Nancy, Jamie und Eddie.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Brunch with Sue's brother Al and aunt Nancy, Jamie and Eddie.</span><br />
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Mein (nicht mehr ganz so) kleiner Wuschel Alexander zeigt mir seine neuen Spielsachen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">My (not anymore) little friend Alexander shows me his new toys.</span><br />
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Dave holt seine Lieblingsgitarren aus ihrem Asyl...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave takes his favourite guitars out of their asylum...</span><br />
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... und legt letzte Hand an seinem Woiperdinger III. an, einer Jaguar Veena: Der Hals bekommt eine geschnitzte Umrahmung...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and finishes his Woiperdinger #003, a Jaguar Veena: He carves a frame for the neck...</span><br />
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... und der Kopf ein Bockshorn. Die <a href="https://www.facebook.com/219851731455882/photos/pb.219851731455882.-2207520000.1398521574./295203760587345/?type=3&theater" target="_blank">Idee</a> dazu entstand bereits vor zwei Jahren, aber das Material stand lange nicht fest. Letztendlich ist es eine Einlegearbeit mit Perlmutt geworden.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and decorates the head with a ram's horn. The <a href="https://www.facebook.com/219851731455882/photos/pb.219851731455882.-2207520000.1398521574./295203760587345/?type=3&theater" target="_blank">idea</a> already formed two years ago but there were a few possible materials. In the end, it's a mother of pearl inlay.</span><br />
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Heute bin ich um halb sieben aufgewacht und habe festgestellt, dass ich allein im Bett bin. Nicht schwer zu erraten, mit wem Dave die Nacht verbracht hat...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, I woke up at half past six and noticed I'm alone in bed. Guess who Dave has spent the night with?</span><br />
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Zehn Uhr. Ein sehr stolzer Dave hält sein Baby zum ersten Mal im Arm.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Ten o'clock. A very proud Dave gets to hold his baby for the first time.</span><br />
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Klar, dass der brandneue Woiperdinger gleich am Abend den musiknarrischen Mitgliedern der Lynch-Familie vorgeführt wird!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Of course the brand new Woiperdinger is presented to the music freaks in the Lynch family right away!</span><br />
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Dave mit seinen Geschwistern.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and his siblings.</span><br />
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Zeit die Spielsachen wieder aufzuräumen, Dave!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's time to tidy up your toys again, Dave!</span><br />
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<b><u>Montag, 28. April:</u></b><br />
Nach guten zwei Wochen Heimaturlaub für Dave geht es heute Abend weiter mit <a href="http://woiperdinger-on-tour.blogspot.ca/p/plan-b.html" target="_blank">Plan B</a>.<br /><span style="color: #cc0000;">After just over two weeks of visiting Dave's family, tonight we proceed with <a href="http://woiperdinger-on-tour.blogspot.ca/p/plan-b.html" target="_blank">Plan B</a>.</span><br />
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Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Calgary, AB, Canada51.0453246 -114.0581012000000150.7256451 -114.70354820000001 51.3650041 -113.4126542tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-14734357797395286692014-04-11T18:37:00.001-07:002014-04-25T19:12:35.948-07:00Antigua II.<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><i>Eigentlich wollten wir diese Woche Abschied nehmen von Antigua und Richtung El Salvador weiterfahren. Den ganzen Montag verbringen wir mit Zeug säubern, sortieren und packen, doch am Dienstagmorgen sind wir alles andere als motiviert, obwohl der nächste Abschnitt nicht anstrengend wäre. Es ist nur so, dass uns der Familienanschluss hier so taugt und wir es genießen, nicht jeden Morgen das komplette Gepäck zusammenpacken und am Abend wieder auseinanderreißen zu müssen. Sesshaftigkeit. Eine wunderbare Sache, die wir noch nicht ganz bereit sind wieder aufzugeben...</i></b></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"><b><i>We had planned to say good-bye to Antigua this week and ride on towards El Salvador. All Monday we spend cleaning, sorting and packing our gear, but on Tuesday morning we just don't feel like heading out even though the next leg wouldn't even be hard. It's just that we love being part of a family and we enjoy not having to pack and unpack all our gear every day. Being settled down. A wonderful thing, and we're just not quite ready to give it up yet...</i></b></span></div>
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Lieblingsnachspeise.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Favourite dessert.</span></div>
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Eigennützig, wie ich bin, kaufe ich den Kindern ein paar Bücher zum Vorlesen. So geben die zwei windpockengeplagten Energiebündel einmal ein bisschen Ruhe, und ich kann mein Spanisch verbessern. Wenn ich einen Fehler mache, verbessern die beiden mich - aber sowas von süß!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Selfish as I am, I buy a few children's books to read them to Geovana and Geovany. That makes the two chickenpox-ridden bundles of energy sit still for a while and gives me an opportunity to improve my Spanish. When I make a mistake they correct me in their cute way!</span></div>
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Auch an Dave haben Geovana und Geovany einen Narren gefressen. Und umgekehrt!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">They also dote on Dave - and vice versa!</span></div>
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Dave findet Zeit und Inspiration für ein neues Woiperdingermodell - den Jazz Bass VI, den er sofort bauen will, wenn er wieder eine Werkstatt hat.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave finds some time and inspiration for a new Woiperdinger model - the Jazz Bass VI that he wants to build as soon as he's got a workshop again.</span></div>
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<b><u>Samstag, 5. April:</u></b> </div>
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"¡Leche, leche!" Frühmorgendlicher Frischmilchlieferservice in Antigua.<br />
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">"¡Leche, leche!" Every morning, the fresh milk delivery service goes round in Antigua.</span></div>
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Abschied von Scott und Meagan: Die beiden fliegen heute zurück nach Ottowa. Wir freuen uns auf ein Wiedersehen irgendwo in Kanada, Deutschland oder Guatemala...</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Saying good-bye to Scott and Meagan: They fly back to Ottowa today. We're looking forward to seeing them again somewhere in Canada, Germany or Guatemala...</span></div>
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Ganz spontaner Familienausflug mit Neuzugang Geraldine aus Montreal (rechts): Isolina und Maynor waren schon über anderthalb Jahre nicht mehr am Meer, weil sie immer arbeiten mussten. Aber irgendwie sind wir gestern Abend draufgekommen, dass sie ja ihre Arbeit (also uns) einfach mitnehmen könnten...</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Very spontaneous trip with the family and newby Geraldine from Montreal (right): Isolina and Maynor haven't been to the beach for a year and a half because they always had to work. But somehow last night, we came up with the idea of them taking their work (hence us) with them...</span></div>
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Es wird ein sehr ausgelassener und fröhlicher Tag, an dem wir unsere Gastfamilie noch glücklicher erleben als sonst.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's a very boisterous and cheerful day that shows our host family even happier than usual.</span></div>
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Beim Baden im Meer und Spielen am Strand vergessen wir total die Zeit.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Swimming in the ocean and playing on the beach, we totally forget the time.</span></div>
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Mittagspause.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lunch break.</span><br />
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Danach geht's gleich wieder ins Wasser!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Afterwards, the kids want to go right back into the water!</span><br />
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Mein Lieblingsbild von heute. Geovany spielt im Sand und sieht die Welle hinter ihm nicht näherkommen...</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">My favourite picture of today: Geovany is playing in the sand and doesn't see the wave coming in behind him...</span></div>
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Alle ohne Ausnahme tragen wir einen respektablen Sonnenbrand davon - als Erinnerung an einen superschönen Tag mit "unserer" Familie.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Without exception, we all get a pretty respectable sunburn - as a memory of a super nice day with "our" family.</span></div>
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<b><u>Sonntag, 5. April:</u></b><br />
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<span style="text-align: justify;">Antigua putzt sich heraus: Auch am heutigen Sonntag findet wieder eine Prozession statt. Über eine Million Besucher werden für heute erwartet!</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #cc0000;">Antigua all dressed up: There's another procession again today, and they expect over a million visitors!</span></span></div>
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Säckeweise Piniennadeln, Blumen und Blätter werden auf den Straßen zu wunderschönen Teppichen angeordnet, über die später die Prozession schreitet.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sacks and sacks of pine needles, flowers and leaves are being arranged to beautiful carpets on the streets. The procession is going to walk on them.</span></div>
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Dave und ich schaffen es endlich in das Bayrische Wirtshaus in Antigua.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I finally make it to the Bavarian restaurant in Antigua.</span></div>
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Von Nachos bis Obatzter mit Brezn gibt es alles, sogar Köstritzer Schwarzbier und Oettinger!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">The menu is a mix of Mexican and Bavarian food.</span></div>
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Wir bestellen Currywurst mit Pommes. Und Sauerkraut. Naja.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We order "Currywurst", some typical German street food.</span><br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 8. April:</u></b><br />
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Langsam wollen Dave und ich unsere Reise fortsetzen, aber wir sind uns nicht mehr sicher, wohin es gehen soll. Am Pazifik entlang nach Süden? So schön der Strandausflug am Samstag auch war, hat er uns doch mit aller Deutlichkeit daran erinnert, warum wir Ende Januar unbedingt weg von der Küste wollten und uns für das bergige Innenland Mexikos entschieden haben: unerträglich schwül-heißes Klima, dreckige Ortschaften und überall Berge von Müll. Camping Fehlanzeige, in der Nacht hier allein unterwegs zu sein wäre sehr gefährlich.</div>
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Wir fahren zum Flughafen und erkundigen uns bei ein paar verschiedenen Fluglinien, welche Möglichkeiten wir mit unserem brutalen Gepäck haben. Denn bald ist Hauptsaison hier - nämlich Ostern - und dann gilt an vielen Flughäfen Zentral- und Südamerikas ein Übergepäckembargo.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I are getting to the point where we want to continue our trip finally but now we're not sure anymore where we want to go. Following the Pacific south? As much as we enjoyed the trip to the beach on Saturday, it also reminded us very clearly of the reasons why we wanted to get away from the coast at the end of January, and decided to go through Mexico's inland mountains: unbearably hot and soggy climate, dirty towns and garbage everywhere. Camping is impossible because you really shouldn't be outside by yourself at night here.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">We take a bus to the airport and make enquiries at different airlines about our options with all our gear. Because the peak season is about to start (the weeks around easter), there's an excess luggage embargo in many Central- and South American airports.</span></div>
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 9. April:</u></b><br />
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Kleines Abschiedsgeschenk von uns: eine Werbetafel für die Gastfamilie, um ein paar vorbeigehende Unterkunftsuchende einzufangen.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Small gift from us: a board advertising our host family, so that other passers-by looking for accommodation will find them.</span></div>
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Abschiedsgeschenk von Maynor für Dave<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Leaving present from Maynor for Dave</span><br />
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Die Haushelferin Gracie hat ihre Tracht und den Rock ihrer kleinen Schwester mitgebracht, damit ich endlich mal ein richtiges Foto davon bekomme.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Gracie, the household help, has brought her traditional dress and her little sister's skirt so that I finally get a good picture.</span></div>
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Es dauert ein bisschen, den Rock anzuziehen, fühlt sich aber richtig gut an!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It takes a little while to wrap the skirt around oneself but it feels really good!</span><br />
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Und so sieht eine typische Familie in den Bergdörfern hier aus. Die Mutter trägt ihr jüngstes Kind in einem Tuch auf ihrem Rücken, das zum Stillen einfach schnell nach vorne gezogen wird. Auf dem Kopf entweder ein Bündel oder ein Korb mit Waren oder Nahrungsmitteln.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">This is how a typical family in the villages on the mountains around Antigua might look like. The mother is carrying her youngest child in a bundle on her back, and if she needs to breastfeed the little one she just pulls it forward. On her head, there's either another bundle or a basket with goods.</span></div>
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Es dauert den ganzen Tag, unsere beiden Fahrräder in ihre Einzelteile zu zerlegen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It takes all day to take both our bikes apart.</span><br />
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Aber Geovana ist eine große Hilfe!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">But Geovana is helping Dave!</span><br />
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In einem Elektrogeschäft haben wir diese großen Kühlschrankschachteln erstanden, die Geovana und Geovany zwar liebend gern zum "Haus spielen" hätten, wir aber zum Transportieren der Räder brauchen.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">We find these big fridge cartons in an electrical shop. Geovana and Geovany would love them for "playing house" but we need them to transport our bikes.</span></div>
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Zum Abschied stiften uns Maynor und Isolina eine Piñata...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Maynor and Isolina get a Piñata for our farewell...</span><br />
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... und überraschen uns außerdem mit einem Kuchen und ein paar Geschenken. Wir sind total gerührt!!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and surprise us with a cake and presents. These people just touch our hearts!!</span><br />
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Nach vier Wochen fällt uns der Abschied von "unserer" Familie sehr schwer. Durch sie haben wir Guatemala erst so richtig kennen gelernt und liebgewonnen, viel Spanisch geübt und endlich einmal wieder ein Zuhause gehabt. Und nicht zuletzt praktische und moralische Unterstützung während Daves Billy-Episode - wir wissen nicht, was wir ohne Isolinas und Maynors selbstlosen Einsatz gemacht hätten! Vielen Dank für alles, Isolina, Maynor, Geovany, Geovana und Grecie!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">After four weeks, saying good-bye to "our" family is really hard. Only with them did we really get to know Guatemala and fell in love with it, practised our Spanish and finally had a place to call home. And not least of all, practical and moral support during Dave's Billy-episode - we have no idea what we would have done without Isolina's and Maynor's selfless effort! Thank you so much for everything, Isolina, Maynor, Geovany, Geovana and Grecie!</span></div>
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 10. April:</u></b><br />
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Der Trick heißt Business Class: Im Fall von American Airlines kostet das Ticket knappe 73 Euro mehr, aber erlaubt uns drei kostenlose Gepäckstücke pro Person.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">The trick is to fly business class: In the case of American Airlines, the ticket costs 101 Dollars more but allows us to bring three pieces of luggage per person.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zum Vergrößern anklicken / <span style="color: #cc0000;">Click to enlarge picture</span></td></tr>
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Wir wussten, dass unsere Fahrradbox die maximale Größe von 126 Zoll (L+B+H) nicht ganz erreichen würde, aber wie knapp Dave mit seiner pi-mal-Daumen-Methode an das Maximalgewicht von 70 Pfund (31,75 kg) herankommt, ist echt der Hammer!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">We knew that our bike box wouldn't reach the maximum size of 126 linear inches (L+W+H) but look at how close Dave came to the maximum weight of 70 pounds by just eyeballing it!</span></div>
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Und auch die kleinere Schachtel mit den Reifen, Gepäckträgern und Ersatzteilen, die als meine dritte Tasche zählt und damit eine Maximalgröße von 62 Zoll (L+B+H) und ein Maximalgewicht von 50 Pfund (22,68 kg) nicht überschreiten darf, haut uns fast um, als wir sie auf die Waage stellen!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">The smaller box with the tires, racks and spare parts which counts as my third bag and thus mustn't exceed a maximum size of 62 linear inches (L+W+H) and a maximum weight of 50 pounds, also staggers us when we put it on the scale!</span></div>
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Wir checken sieben Taschen und Boxen mit insgesamt 330 Pfund (150 kg) ein und müssen keinen Cent extra bezahlen. Mit einem Ticket der Holzklasse hätten wir zunächst zwar je 73 Euro weniger bezahlt, aber dann 50+168+448 Dollar pro Person plus 224 Dollar für die große Fahrradbox blechen müssen. Macht 1556 Dollar (1120 Euro) Ersparnis UND wir bekommen breite Sitze, extra Fußraum, ständig Getränke, richtig gutes Essen auf richtigem Geschirr... Juchu!!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">We check in seven bags and boxes with a total weight of 330 pounds and don't have to pay a cent extra. With an economy class ticket we would've paid 101 dollars less at first, but then they would've charged us 50+168+448 dollars per person plus 224 dollars for the big bike box extra. Makes 1556 dollars that we save AND we get wide seats, extra leg room, a constant offer of drinks, really good food on real crockery... Woohoo!!</span></div>
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Das liegt wahrscheinlich auch daran, dass die Angestellten am Check-In-Schalter zu Fluggästen der Business Class etwas freundlicher sind als zu den Billigkundschaften. Um auf unsere sechs anstatt sieben Gepäckstücke zu kommen, empfiehlt man uns zum Beispiel, einfach vier Satteltaschen zu einem Bündel zusammenzubinden und mit Sicherheitsfolie einwickeln zu lassen (okay, dieser Service kostet 17,25 Euro) um die 120 Euro Übergepäckgebühr zu sparen.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Might also have to do with the different attitude of the Check-In staff towards passengers flying business class compared to their cheap customers. For example, in order to have six instead of seven pieces of luggage, they advise us to strap four panniers together to one bundle and have it wrapped with shrink wrap (okay, that service costs 24 dollars) to save the excess luggage fee of 168 dollars.</span></div>
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Guatemala verabschiedet sich mit reibungslos effektivem und freundlichem Service am Flughafen, strahlendem Wetter, einem tollen Blick auf die Vulkane Agua, Fuego und Acatenango hinter der Hauptstadt und einem letzten Frühstück mit Rührei, Bohnen und gebratenen Bananen. Aber es ist kein Abschied für immer, soviel steht fest!!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Guatemala says good-bye with some smooth, efficient and friendly service at the airport, great weather, a great view over the volcanos Agua, Fuego and Acatenango behind the main capital and one last breakfast with scrambled eggs, beans and fried bananas. But it's not a final good-bye, that's for sure!!</span></div>
Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala14.553405 -90.73525514.491931 -90.815936 14.614879 -90.654574tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-91366014702421906672014-04-01T08:34:00.000-07:002014-04-01T09:14:37.641-07:00Antigua<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><i>Wir hatten schon länger vor, uns einmal einen längeren "Urlaub" zu gönnen, und Antigua scheint uns dafür perfekt geeignet: Eine gemütliche Kleinstadt mit allerlei kulturellen Angeboten und Ausflugsmöglichkeiten, dazu viele Sprachschulen und die dazugehörigen Gastfamilien, bei denen man das Gelernte in die Praxis umsetzen kann und noch dazu dreimal am Tag gefüttert wird. Nach zwei Tagen der Orientierung fällt die Entscheidung auf die <a href="http://www.antiguaspanishschoolcooperacion.com/" target="_blank">Cooperación Spanish School</a>, in der ich einen zweiwöchigen Intensivkurs belegen und Dave ein paar Einzelstunden nehmen möchte. In dieser Zeit wohnen wir bei Isolina, Maynor und ihren Kindern Geovany und Geovana.</i></b><br />
<b><i><span style="color: #cc0000;">We've been ready for a "holiday" from our tour for a while now, and Antigua seems to be the perfect place for that: a nice little town that offers a lot of culture and nature to be explored, as well as many language schools with their respective host families that allow you to practice Spanish after class and also feed you three times a day. After two days of orientation, we decide to go with the </span></i></b><b><i> <a href="http://www.antiguaspanishschoolcooperacion.com/" target="_blank">Cooperación Spanish School</a></i></b><b><i><span style="color: #cc0000;">, where I want to do a two week immersion while Dave plays a lot of Sitar and just takes a few single lessons. During that time, we live with Isolina, Maynor and their children Geovany and Geovana.</span></i></b><br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 13. März:</u></b></div>
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Gleich am ersten Abend gibt es eine Party, denn es ist der Abschied von zwei Gästen und der Geburtstag eines dritten. Dieses Papierschloss heißt Piñata und ist ein beliebtes Partyspiel hier. Es ist gefüllt mit Süßigkeiten, die man sich jedoch erst erarbeiten muss...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our first night there is the last night of two other guests and a third guest's birthday, so that we are welcomed with a party. The family has prepared a piñata, a candy filled paper castle that you have to get into...</span></div>
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Mit verbundenen Augen versucht man, das Ding mit einem Stock zu erwischen und so lange draufzuhauen, bis die Guttis rausfallen. Allerdings stehen Maynor und Dave an jeweils einer Seite und ziehen an dem Seil mit der Piñata, so dass diese einem ständig entwischt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">You get blindfolded and try to hit the thing with a stick until the candies fall out. But Maynor and Dave stand on both sides, holding the rope the piñata is tied to and pull on it, so that most of the time, you just hit the air.</span></div>
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Rollentausch<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Role reversal</span><br />
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Immer mehr Bonbons landen auf dem Boden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">More and more candies land on the floor.</span><br />
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Hinten auf der Bank die anderen vier Gäste, Geovana und Isolina (unsere Mamá), vorne Sohnemann Geovany und wir.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The other four guests are sitting on the bench with Geovana and Isolina (our Mamá), and Geovany, Dave and I are in the front.</span></div>
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<b><u>Freitag, 14. März:</u></b></div>
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Nach der Schule bin ich heute völlig platt. Vier Stunden Einzelunterricht! Und jetzt noch 20 Seiten Hausaufgaben, damit ich fürs Wochenende ausgelastet bin.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After school, I'm completely wiped out today. Four hours of one-on-one class! And now I've got 20 pages of homework to do, that'll keep me busy for the whole weekend.</span></div>
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Im Garten der Spanischen Botschaft ist es total ruhig, da lässt es sich gut lernen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the inner courtyard of the Spanish embassy, it's nice and quiet for me to study.</span><br />
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Unsere Straße.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our street.</span><br />
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Maynor zieht irgendwo eine alte Gitarre raus...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Maynor finds an old guitar somewhere...</span><br />
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Später ziehen wir mit unseren neuen Zimmernachbarn Nick und Melissa aus den USA nochmal los. Eigentlich wollte ich sie in das Bayrische Wirtshaus mitnehmen, das ich heute früh auf dem Weg in die Schule entdeckt habe - aber das hat zu.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Later, we go out with our new house mates Nick and Melissa from North Dakota ("North Korea", as fas as Isolina is concerned:-). I was going to take them to the Bavarian restaurant I discovered on my way to school this morning, but they're closed.</span></div>
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Am liebsten mögen wir sowieso Standlspezialitäten!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We prefer street food anyway!</span><br />
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Nachspeise<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dessert</span><br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 15. März:</u></b><br />
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Ausflug auf den Vulkan Pacaya, der vor nur zehn Tagen ausgebrochen ist.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Day trip to the Pacaya volcano which erupted only ten days ago.</span></div>
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Unser Wanderführer Rudolfo zeigt auf die wunderbare Aussicht heute. Bei schönem Wetter könnte man von hier aus drei weitere Vulkane sehen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our guide Rudolfo points out the wonderful view of today. If the weather were nice, we could see three other volcanos from here.</span></div>
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Aus diesen kleinen Löchern strömt warme Luft.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There's warm air coming out of these small holes.</span><br />
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Abstieg in den Krater hinein.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Descent into the crater.</span><br />
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Vorsicht, heiß! Dave versucht einen Stecken an der noch roten Lava zu entzünden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Caution, hot! Dave tries to light a stick on fire with the still red-hot lava. </span></div>
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Rudolfo hat eine bessere Verwendung für diesen natürlichen Grill...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Rudolfo knows a better use for this natural barbecue...</span><br />
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Marshmallows für alle!!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Marshmallows for everybody!!</span><br />
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Wie sicher wir hier sind, kann kein Mensch sagen. Schon ein komisches Gefühl, über diese brandneuen Lavabrocken zu steigen, die alles andere als stabil sind.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Nobody can say how safe it is to be up here. It's a strange feeling to climb over these brandnew lava rocks which are anything but stable.</span></div>
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Am Rand des Kraters brennen die Büsche immer noch.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Bushes are still burning at the rim of the crater.</span></div>
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Aufstieg auf den höchsten Punkt des Vulkans.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Ascend to the highest point of the volcano.</span><br />
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Und damit hätte auch niemand gerechnet: Anstatt eines langen und für die Knie unangenehmen Rückmarsches rutschen wir im lockeren Lavasand hinunter. Nach wenigen Metern sind zwar unsere Schuhe und Socken voller Steinchen, aber es macht voll Spaß und geht richtig schnell - irgendwie wie Schifahren.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And a cool surprise at the end: Instead of a long and knee-killing hike back down, we slide down in the loose lava sand. After a couple of metres, our shoes and socks are full of little rocks, but it's a lot of fun and quite fast - kind of like skiing.</span></div>
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Panflötengruppe in Antigua bei unserer Rückkehr nach Antigua.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We are welcomed back in Antigua by a panflute band.</span></div>
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<b><u>Sonntag, 16. März:</u></b></div>
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In der Fastenzeit findet hier jeden Sonntag eine Prozession statt, die ihresgleichen sucht. Dieses riesige Holztrumm wird von Männern stundenlang durch die Stadt getragen, begleitet von tausenden Schaulustigen. Es ist ein prachtvoll geschnitztes Gestell mit lebensgroßen Figuren, unter anderem Jesus mit dem Kreuz.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Every sunday during lent, a one of a kind procession takes place in Antigua. This massive wooden thing is carried through town for hours by men, accompanied by thousands of spectators. It's a splendid carved frame with life-size statues, one of them being Jesus carrying the cross.</span></div>
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Träger mit dem traditionellen Kostüm.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Porter wearing the traditional costume.</span><br />
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Im Anschluss daran die Frauen mit ihrer ebenso prächtigen wie schweren Mariendarstellung.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Following the men are the women with their magnificent and heavy display of Mary.</span></div>
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Die Prozession ist bereits ziemlich lang im Gange, darum müssen hier einige Männer aushelfen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The procession has been going on for a while, so the men have to help out.</span></div>
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Die Figuren sind teilweise so hoch, dass es einen "Stromkabelhochheber" braucht, damit sie durchkommen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Some of the displays are so tall that a "powerlinelifterupper" has to walk in front of them to let them through.</span></div>
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Schon lange wollte ich einmal eine Frau in ihrer Tracht fotografieren, aber das ist unter normalen Umständen nicht so gern gesehen. Jetzt erwische ich sogar eine, die ein dickes Bündel auf dem Kopf trägt, die landestypische Transportmethode.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">I've been trying to get a good picture of a woman in her traditional clothes since we came here, but they usually don't like it. Now I even catch one carrying a big bundle on her head as is the favourite local method of transport.</span></div>
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Ende des Zuges.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">End of the procession.</span></div>
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<b><u>Dienstag, 18. März:</u></b><br />
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Am frühen Nachmittag verspürt Dave plötzlich starke Bauch- und Rückenschmerzen, die sich in keiner Liegeposition aushalten lassen. Isolinas und Maynors Hausarzt kommt vorbei, verabreicht ihm eine Spritze und nimmt ein Marmeladenglaserl mit Urin mit.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the early afternoon, Dave suddenly has a very strong stomach- and backache that he cannot bear in any lying position. Isolina's and Maynor's family doctor comes to the house, administers an injection to him and takes a jam jar with a urine sample with him.</span></div>
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Am Abend gehen wir zu seiner Sprechstunde und bekommen anhand dieser Zeichnung auf der Rückseite des Laborbefunds unsere Befürchtung, es handle sich um einen Nierenstein, bestätigt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the evening, we go to the doctor's office and on the back of the laboratory test results, he draws a little picture that confirms what we've been suspecting: It's a kidney stone.</span><br />
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Mit verschiedenen Medikamenten beladen kommen wir nach Hause.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Loaded with a whole medicine collection we go home.</span><br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 19. März:</u></b><br />
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Zur Sicherheit machen wir heute noch eine Ultraschallaufnahme. Dave hat vor lauter Schmerzen die ganze Nacht nicht geschlafen, und von der zweiten Spritze heute morgen ist er so schwach, dass er sich kaum auf den Beinen halten kann. Aber als er die Bilder sieht, meint er: "Ich nenne ihn Billy".<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">To be on the safe side, we have to get an ultrasound examination today. The pain has kept Dave awake all night, and the second injection from this morning makes him so weak that he can hardly stand or walk. But when he sees the pictures, he goes: "I'm going to name him Billy".</span><br />
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Ab jetzt heißt es, durch Isolinas ausrangierten Teeseiher pieseln, damit er das wertvolle Beweisstück nicht verliert!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">From now on, he has to pee through Isolina's junked tea strainer, so that he doesn't lose the precious evidence!</span><br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 20. März:</u></b><br />
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Wie gesagt, bekommen wir in der Gastfamilie drei Mahlzeiten am Tag. Wir lieben diese geselligen Runden, in denen wir die traditionelle guatemaltekische Küche kennen lernen, uns in spanischer Konversation üben und mit den anderen Hausgästen austauschen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As I've mentioned before, we get three meals a day in our host family. We love these social get-togethers in which we get to know the traditional Guatemalan cuisine, practice Spanish conversation and exchange stories with the other guests.</span><br />
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Zur Nachspeise gibt es heute selbstgemachtes Steckerleis: gefrorene Früchte in flüssige Schokolade tauchen, fertig. Hoffentlich ist da morgen noch was übrig!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Homemade popsicles for dessert: simply dip frozen fruits into melted chocolate, done. We hope there's going to be leftovers for tomorrow!</span></div>
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<b><u>Freitag, 21. März:</u></b><br />
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Aussicht von unserer Dachterrasse kurz vor Sonnenaufgang. Das ist der Hausberg von Antigua, der Volcán de Agua gleich südlich der Stadt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View from our roof terrace just before sunrise. Antigua's nearby mountain, the Volcán de Agua, is just south of the town.</span><br />
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Und diese zwei im Westen, der aktive Volcán de Fuego und der Volcán Acatenango, sind ebenfalls beliebte Ausflugsziele.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And those two in the west, the active Volcán de Fuego and the Volcán Acatenango, also are very popular trip destinations.</span><br />
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Geovana und ich dürfen Maynor bei seiner Arbeit begleiten: Als Schlüsseldienst macht er natürlich auch Hausbesuche, und einen Großteil seines Tages verbringt er damit, sich zu den Adressen seiner Kunden durchzufragen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Geovana and I get to accompany Maynor to his work today: As a lock smith, he has to do a lot of home visits. A big chunk of his day consists of asking his way through to the right addresses.</span><br />
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Wie gut, dass wir zwei Raucher als Mitbewohner haben! Während ihrer abendlichen Verdauungszigarette bemerken sie, dass der Vulcán de Fuego Feuer spuckt und holen uns alle auf die Dachterrasse. Fotografieren lässt sich der Ausbruch mit meiner Kamera leider nicht, aber es ist schon ein beeindruckendes Schauspiel: Etwa alle zwanzig Minuten schießt glutrote Lava in die Luft und rinnt anschließend den Berg hinunter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Luckily, our housemates are smokers! During their after-dinner cigarette, they notice that the Volcán de Fuego is erupting and get us to come up on the roof. Unfortunately, I cannot take a picture of the eruption with my camera, but it's an impressive spectacle: Approximately every twenty minutes, red hot lava shoots up into the air and then runs down the mountain.</span><br />
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Eine der vielen Kirchenruinen Antiguas dient an den Wochenenden als Kulisse für Freiluftkonzerte. Aber wie jedes Mal sind wir auch heute wieder zu spät dran.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">One of the many church ruins in Antigua serves as a backdrop for open air concerts at the weekends. But as every time, we're late again tonight.</span><br />
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Naja, dann gehen wir halt mit unseren Mitbewohnern auf ein Bier ins Rainbow-Café, da spielt auch eine Live-Band.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Oh well, in that case we just go to the rainbow café for a beer with our house mates, and there's also a live band playing.</span><br />
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Kleiner kultureller Unterschied zwischen Dave und mir...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Little cultural difference between Dave and I...</span><br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 22. März:</u></b><br />
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Kathedrale San José, Antigua.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">San José Cathedral in Antigua.</span><br />
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Zusammen mit unseren Mitbewohnern Scott und Maegan aus Kanada besuchen wir heute eine Kaffeplantage und -Rösterei. Unter anderem erfahren wir, dass wir die Entdeckung dieses essentiellen Gebräus ein paar schlaflosen Ziegen in Malaysia zu verdanken haben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We visit a coffee plantation and roastery with our house mates Scott and Maegan from Ottawa today. Amongst other things, we learn that we owe the discovery of this essential drink to a few sleepless goats in Malaysia.</span><br />
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In der Mitte ein paar reife Kaffeebohnen, rechts unten die geschälten und fermentierten, oben rechts die getrockneten und ein zweites Mal geschälten und links oben die gerösteten Bohnen. Links unten schließlich das Kaffeepulver.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the centre, there are a few ripe coffee beans. Bottom right: peeled and fermented beans, top right: dried and peeled for the second time, top left: roasted, bottom left: ground coffee.</span><br />
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Reife Bohnen an einer Kaffeestaude.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Ripe coffee beans on the plant.</span><br />
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Schmecken nicht besonders.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Don't taste like much.</span><br />
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Original Kaffeeröster aus Deutschland, Baujahr 1870. Der Ball kam mit den grünen Kaffeebohnen beladen über die brennenden Stöcke und musste ständig per Handkurbel gedreht werden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Original coffee roaster made in Germany in 1870. The ball holding the green beans went above the burning sticks and had to be turned manually.</span><br />
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Berge von Kaffeebohnen liegen in der Sonne zum Trocknen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Heaps of coffee beans are drying in the sun.</span><br />
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Das hier sind die schlechten Bohnen. Daraus wird Instantkaffee produziert.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">These are the bad beans. I'm sorry to disappoint you, Sue, but they are used to make instant coffee.</span><br />
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Moderne Röstungsanlage.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Modern roasting machine.</span><br />
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Und wieder gibt es was zum Probieren...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And some more tasting...</span><br />
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Dieses Mal erschmecken wir den Unterschied zwischen 20 und 21 Minuten lang gerösteten Bohnen. Also den überraschend großen Unterschied zwischen mittlerer und starker Röstung.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This time, it's the difference between 20 and 21 minutes of roasting, which is the surprisingly big difference between medium and dark roast.</span><br />
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Riesige Kaffeemühle.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Huge coffee grinder.</span><br />
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Außer Kaffee wird hier auch Trinkschokolade verarbeitet und vermarktet.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Apart from coffee, they also make drinking chocolate here.</span><br />
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Da helfen wir doch gleich mal mit!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I help packing it!</span><br />
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Kompostierungsanlage für faule Bohnen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The foul beans get composted here.</span><br />
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Rundgang in der Plantage.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Walking through the plantation.</span><br />
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Kaffeepflanze mit Blüten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Coffee plant with flowers.</span><br />
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Zum Schluss natürlich ein Tässchen zur Probe...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At the end of the tour, we get to try a cup of course...</span><br />
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... und die einmalige Gelegenheit, diesen Geschmack mit nach Hause zu nehmen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and purchase some of the products, too.</span><br />
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Warnhinweis auf der Macadamiaschokoladenpackung: "Könnte süchtig machen!"<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Warning on one of the chocolate bars.</span><br />
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Gleich neben der Kaffeeplantage befindet sich das Musikmuseum, da müssen wir natürlich auch rein.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Right next to the coffee plantation, there's the music museum. We still have time, so we visit it quickly.</span><br />
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Und noch ein kurzer Rundgang durch eine Trachtenausstellung. Hier eine Hochzeitsgesellschaft im besten Gewand.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And we also get to go into an exhibition of traditional clothes. There's a wedding party in their best outfits...</span><br />
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Bäuerliche Tracht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... as well as a farmer's couple...</span><br />
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Ganz typisches Bild auf jeder Straße hier, nur dass ich die Frauen in Echt leider nicht fotografieren kann.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and a typical scene in every street here, but I never get to take a picture of these women.</span><br />
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Alles Handarbeit!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Everything made by hand!</span><br />
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Und noch so eine typische Szene: Verkäuferin in einem Markt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Another typical scene: Vendor in a market.</span><br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 23. März:</u></b><br />
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Einer unserer Mitbewohner und ich gehen heute mit zum Gottesdienst in eine evangelikale Kirche (ist zwar hauptsächlich eine protestantische Bewegung, aber nicht mit "evangelisch" zu verwechseln).<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">One of our house mates and I go to church with our host family today.</span><br />
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Vorbereitende Bibelstudie im Auto.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Preparation in the car.</span><br />
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Als wir ankommen, ist der Gottesdienst bereits in vollem Gange - der Saal ist gerammelt voll, und es wird laut gesungen, geklatscht und getanzt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When we arrive there, the room is totally crowded already and the people are singing, clapping and dancing.</span><br />
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Wo in anderen Kirchen ein Altar steht, tobt sich hier in der ersten Stunde eine Rockband aus.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Where you'd have an altar in other churches, there's a rock band playing loudly for one hour.</span><br />
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Plötzlich ändert sich schlagartig die Stimmung: Die Band drosselt sowohl das Tempo als auch die Lautstärke stark, die Frauen bedecken ihren Kopf mit Tüchern, und auf einmal sind wir umringt von laut klagenden und schluchzenden Leuten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Suddenly, the vibe changes completely: The band plays something mellow, the women cover their heads with scarves, and soon we're surrounded by people sobbing and crying loudly.</span><br />
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Etwa eine halbe Stunde geht das so, bis irgendwann der Priester zum Mikrofon greift und über das anhaltende Weinen hinweg seine Predigt in die Runde brüllt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After maybe half an hour of that, the priest takes the microphone and yells his sermon across the room while the sobbing keeps going on.</span><br />
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Falls jemand schwerhörig sein sollte, was man sich bei langjährigen Mitgliedern dieser Gemeinde gut vorstellen kann, wird die Predigt vom Laptop direkt an eine Leinwand projiziert, so dass man mitlesen kann.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In case there are any deaf people, the sermon gets beamed onto a screen from the priest's laptop, so that they can read along.</span><br />
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Irgendwann ändert sich der Ton der Predigt, und es wird wieder gelacht. Nach vollen drei Stunden endet der Gottesdienst mit einem letzten fröhlichen Lied.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At some point, the tone of the sermon changes, and people laugh again. After three hours, the church service ends with one last cheerful song.</span><br />
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Am Nachmittag packen wir das Auto voll bis zum Anschlag (acht Leute) und machen einen Ausflug mit unserer Gastfamilie.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the afternoon, Isolina and Maynor pack their car to the brim (eight people) and take us on a daytrip.</span><br />
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Erste Station ist der Cerro de la Cruz, ein Aussichtshügel gleich außerhalb der Stadt, von dem man einen tollen Blick auf Antigua und den Volcán de Agua dahinter hat.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our first stop is Cerro de la Cruz, a hill with a great view over Antigua and the Volcán de Agua on the other side.</span><br />
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Sowohl für Einheimische als auch Touristen ein beliebtes Ausflugsziel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's a very popular destination for tourists as well as locals.</span><br />
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Dave und ich mit Geovana, Geovany, Isolina und Maynor.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I with Geovana, Geovany, Isolina and Maynor.</span><br />
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Hinterlassenschaft von Nick und Melissa, unseren zwei anderen Hausgästen, die gestern hier oben waren.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Leftovers from Nick and Melissa, our two other house guests who went up here yesterday.</span><br />
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Auf der Weiterfahrt besuchen wir zwei kleine Ortschaften ohne Wasserversorgungsnetz. Um Wäsche zu waschen, müssen die Frauen das Wasser von dem einzigen Wasserhahn im Dorf zu dieser kommunalen Waschküche schleppen. Seit kurzem gibt es wenigstens ein Dach, so dass die Frauen ihre schwere Handarbeit nicht mehr in der heißen Sonne verrichten müssen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As we continue our trip, we visit two villages without any water supply network. In order to wash their laundry, the women have to carry water from the only tap in town to this communal wash house. At least, they got a roof just recently so that the women don't have to do their hard work in the hot sun anymore.</span><br />
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Beliebtes Transportmittel in Mittelamerika ist der sogenannten "Chickenbus" - ein je nach Geschmack des Fahrers aufgemotzter und dekorierter ausrangierter Schulbus aus den USA. Andere Reisende haben uns erzählt, dass sie zu hundertzehnt in so einem Ding unterwegs waren!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Very popular mode of transport in Central America: the so called "chicken bus". Souped-up and decorated to the driver's taste, the former American school buses serve another couple of years until they fall apart completely. Other travellers have told us they've been in one with a hundred and ten other people!</span><br />
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Wenn gerade kein Champions-League-Spiel läuft, spielen die Guatemalteken selbst Fußball. Immer und überall.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When they aren't watching the European Champions League on TV, Guatemalans play soccer themselves. Everywhere and all the time.</span><br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 25. März:</u></b><br />
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Dave und ich machen wieder einen Tagesausflug, dieses Mal zum Lago de Atitlán, einem von drei Vulkanen umrahmten See im Südwesten Guatemalas.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I go on a guided day trip to the Lago de Atitlán, a lake in the southwest of Guatemala, surrounded by three volcanos.</span><br />
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Die geführte Tour per Bus und Boot geht von Antigua nach Panajachél, San Juan, San Pedro, Santiago und am Abend wieder zurück.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The bus and boat tour goes from Antigua to Panajachél, San Juan, San Pedro, Santiago and back to Antigua in the evening.</span><br />
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Von weitem sehen wir Santa Cruz, eine Ortschaft mit über 2000 Einwohnern, die ausschließlich per Boot erreichbar ist.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">From the boat, we see Santa Cruz, a little town with just over 2000 people who have to take a boat to get there and back.</span><br />
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Ausstieg vom Boot direkt auf ein Hausdach. Vor fünf Jahren war die Regenzeit ungewöhnlich stark, und seitdem ist der Wasserpegel über drei Meter höher als zuvor, denn der See hat keinen Ablauf.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Getting off the boat directly onto the roof of a house. Five years ago, the raining season was unusually strong, and since then the water level has been three metres higher than before because the lake doesn't have a drain.</span><br />
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Noch so ein ehemaliges Menschenhaus, jetzt von Enten bewohnt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Another former human house, now inhabited by ducks.</span><br />
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Erster Landgang: die (noch) sehr ursprüngliche Künstler- und Handwerkerstadt San Juan.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">First shore leave: the (so far) very unspoilt artisans' town of San Juan.</span><br />
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Wir besichtigen die Galerie eines Malers, der Kindern kostenlos Unterricht gibt und dafür ihre Werke verkauft.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We visit the gallery of a painter who teaches children for free and sells their works.</span><br />
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Nicht zu fassen, dass diese Bilder von sieben- bis zehnjährigen gemalt sind!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Hard to believe that these paintings were done by seven to ten year olds!</span><br />
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Lebenssymbol der Maya: Mais.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Symbol of life of the Mayans: corn.</span><br />
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Weiß der Mann, gelb die Frau, rot das Leben (Blut) und schwarz die Nacht: Aus diesen vier Elementen entwickelte sich unter anderem der Kalender der Maya.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">White (man), yellow (woman), red (life, blood) and black (night): The Mayan calendar was developed from these four elements.</span><br />
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Maya-Kalender.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Mayan calendar.</span><br />
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Traditionelle und erdbebensichere Bauweise der Maya mit Maisstängeln.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The traditional Mayan method of building is earthquake-proof...</span><br />
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Nicht ganz so erdbebensichere Bauweise der Spanier (unten) und Franzosen (oben); beim Einsturz der Gebäude wurden schon viele Menschen von den schweren Steinen.erschlagen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... whereas the imported construction technique of the Spanish (bottom) and the French (top) turned out not to be. The larger bricks on the bottom can injure or kill people during an earthquake, but the lighter layers on the top are less lethal. </span><br />
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Als nächstes besichtigen wir eine Baumwollspinnerei, Färberei und Weberei.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Next thing is a cotton spinning and dyeing factory run by the women's association.</span><br />
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Reife Baumwolle.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Ripe cotton.</span><br />
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Tabakspflanze - für ein helles, warmes Braun.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Tobacco plant - used for a light, warm brown.</span><br />
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Und viele andere Blüten, Früchte und Blätter rund ums Haus werden für die Färberei benutzt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And many other flowers, fruits and leaves around the building are used in the dye-works.</span><br />
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Eine Frau demonstriert, wie man Baumwolle säubert und spinnt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">A woman demonstrates how you clean and spin cotton.</span><br />
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Dave wagt einen Versuch...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave proofs to be a natural!</span><br />
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Alles Natur pur: Jede Frucht, Blüte usw. gibt einen anderen Farbton.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">All natural: Each fruit, flower and so on makes a different colour.</span><br />
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Aber entscheidend ist auch die Dauer des Farbeinwirkung: Aus diesem einen Topf kommen von zartrosa bis pink, lila, violett und hellblau alle Schattierungen raus, je nachdem, wie lange die Wolle darin liegt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">But the crucial point is the duration of the cotton soaking in the dye: From this one pot, you can get every shade from carnation pink to purple, violet and baby blue - depending on how long the colour is working in.</span><br />
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Magst mitfahrn?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Want a ride?</span><br />
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In einem Café erklärt uns Reiseleiter Alex, wie Kaffee und Schokolade produziert werden...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In a café, our tour guide Alex explains to us how coffee and chocolate are produced...</span><br />
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... und wie das Zahlensystem der Maya funktioniert.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and how the Mayan number system works.</span><br />
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Der Wert jedes Geldscheins in Guatemala steht oben links in arabischen Ziffern und oben rechts in Maya Zahlensymbolen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Every banknote in Guatemala has its value printed in Arabic numerals in the top left corner and in Mayan symbols on the top right.</span><br />
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Spätestens beim zweiten Landgang in San Pedro sind wir froh, uns die Besichtigung dieser Gegend per Fahrrad erspart zu haben!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">During our second shore leave in San Pedro, we realize what a smart decision it was to NOT visit this area by bike!</span><br />
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Das am meisten verbreitete Verkehrsmittel hier sind Tuktuks.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The most popular vehicle around here are tuctucs.</span><br />
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Auch wenn der gesunde Menschenverstand protestiert, lassen wir uns die Fahrt in so einem Taxi nicht entgehen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Every single one of our brain cells is protesting, but we cannot resist a ride in such a taxi!</span><br />
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Wir besichtigen einen Friedhof, der die landestypische Lebensweise, eine Mischung aus altem Mayaglauben und katholischer Religion, Fußballmanie und tiefer Verbundenheit mit der direkten Umgebung, widerspiegelt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We have a look at a cemetery. It represents the typical lifestyle made up by old Mayan beliefs, catholic religion, soccer mania and deep connection with the immediate environment.</span><br />
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Wer es sich leisten kann, kauft ein kleines Grundstück und baut darauf eine Art Mausoleum.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Whoever can afford it, buys a small piece of land and builds a mausoleum on it.</span><br />
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Wer es sich nicht leisten kann, endet hier.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Who doesn't, ends up here.</span><br />
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Waschtag.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Laundry day.</span><br />
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Die 73-jährige Marta führt uns ihren Kopfschmuck vor, den leider nur noch wenige Frauen tragen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">73 year old Marta presents her headdress which unfortunately isn't worn by many women anymore.</span><br />
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Die Kirche von San Pedro wurde 1547 einfach ohne zu fragen auf eine Kultstätte der Maya draufgebaut.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The church of San Pedro was build right on top of a Mayan place of ritual worship in 1547. Without asking permission, of course.</span><br />
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Innendrin findet man Heiligenfiguren mit übergroßen, ungebügelten Herrenhemden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Inside, you find the statues of saints dressed in oversized, unironed business shirts.</span><br />
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In dieser Schule findet irgendein wichtiges Examen statt - und zwar auf dem Gang.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The pupils of this school haul their chairs and tables into the hallway for some important exam.</span><br />
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Beim dritten Landgang in Santiago entdecke ich einen kleinen Ausschnitt der Arbeit von Susanne Heiße, deren Geschichte ich vergangenen Oktober in den "<a href="http://www.br.de/mediathek/video/sendungen/lebenslinien/lebenslinien-fuer-immer-rebellin-120.html" target="_blank">Lebenslinien</a>" des Bayrischen Rundfunks gesehen habe. Sie bringt Kindern in Guatemala einen verantwortungsbewussten und kreativen Umgang mit Plastikmüll bei.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On our third shore leave in Santiago, I discover a small part of Susanne Heiße's work: In a documentary last year, I learned about this woman from Germany, who teaches children in Guatemala how to handle plastic garbage in a responsible and creative way.</span><br />
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Diesen Dreijährigen, der hier seine Mango im See wäscht, beneiden wir alle um sein Immunsystem.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We all envy this three year old boy who's washing his mango in the lake for his immune system!</span><br />
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Rückfahrt nach Panajachél.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Ride back to Panajachél.</span><br />
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Der erste Unfall, den wir sehen: ein umgestürzter Tanklastzug. Kein Wunder bei den halsbrecherischen Manövern, die die Fahrer hier teilweise an den Tag legen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The first accident we see, a tanker on its side. Considering the breakneck manoeuvres many drivers show here, it's not a surprise.</span><br />
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Dieses Foto ist nicht gestellt: Mit weißen Handknöcheln und angespannten Beinen verbringen wir die Heimfahrt, denn in mehr als einer Kurve quietschen die Reifen des Kleinbusses.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">This picture is not posed: We spend the bus ride home with white knuckles and tense thigh muscles, because in more than just one of the tight curves the tires are screeching!</span></div>
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 26. März:</u></b><br />
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Im Rainbowcafé ist Open Mic Night, das heißt, jeder kann sich für ein paar Minuten lang das Mikrofon schnappen und den anderen Gästen was vorsingen, spielen oder lesen. Nachdem Dave die letzten zwei Wochen sehr fleißig Sitar geübt hat, laden wir die komplette Hausgemeinschaft samt Kinder ein mitzukommen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's Open Mic Night in the Rainbow Café, and after Dave has been practicing Sitar a lot in the last two weeks, we invite the whole house including the children to come with us.</span><br />
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Zwei Trommler begleiten Dave spontan, und es wird ein sensationeller Erfolg; diese Art von Musik gibt es in dieser Ecke der Welt nicht jeden Tag zu hören!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Two drummers accompany Dave spontaneously, and his short performance is a great success; this kind of music certainly isn't very common around here!</span><br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 27. März:</u></b><br />
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Isolina kocht heute in der Werkstatt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, Isolina is cooking in the workshop.</span><br />
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Unser Haus.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our house.</span><br />
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Dave verbringt den ganzen Tag und die halbe Nacht damit, eine Präzisionsbedampfungsanlage zu fabrizieren, denn der Hals seiner Mandoline hat sich in den letzten zwei Monaten so weit vom Körper entfernt, dass das Instrument nicht mehr spielbar ist.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave spends all day and half the night manufacturing a precision steam plant, because during the past two months, the neck of his mandolin has come off the body so far that the instrument is not playable anymore.</span><br />
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Campingkocher, Metallflasche mit kochend heißem Wasser, Rennradschlauch (Neuerwerb, denn unsere sind zu dick)...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Camping stove, metal bottle with boiling water, road bike tube (new acquisition because ours are too big)...</span><br />
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... und am anderen Ende eine Spritze mit relativ dicker Kanüle (aus der Apotheke), mit einem Kabelbinder am Fahrradschlauch befestigt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and at the other end, a syringe with a relatively thick needle (from a pharmacy), fixed to the bike tube with a cable tie.</span><br />
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Um den Kleber sanft aufzulösen, aber den Rest der Mandoline nicht zu beschädigen, injiziert er den Dampf direkt in die Schnittstelle zwischen Hals und Körper. Nach sechs Explosionen beschließt er, die Mandoline heimzuschicken und die Arbeit nächstes Jahr in seiner eigenen Werkstatt fortzusetzen, wo er alles hat, was er dafür braucht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In order to gently dissolve the glue but save the rest of the instrument from damage, Dave injects the steam directly into the seam between neck and body. After six explosions, he decides to send the mandolin home and continue the job in his own workshop next year where he's got all the tools he needs.</span><br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 28. März:</u></b><br />
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Dave wollte sowieso von irgendwo auf dieser Reise ein Souvenir mitnehmen... Und in dieses Charango hat er sich neulich beim Vorbeigehen an einem Musikgeschäft verliebt, von daher fällt die Entscheidung nicht arg schwer...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">He was going to buy a souvenir somewhere along the trip anyway... And when we passed a music shop the other day, this charango already caught his eye, so the decision is easily made...</span><br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 29. März:</u></b><br />
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Letzte Vorbereitungen für einen großartigen Wochenendausflug: Mit einer Gruppe von insgesamt 21 Teilnehmern wollen wir heute den Vulkan Acatenango besteigen, von dem aus man in der Nacht seinen aktiven Nachbarn, den Vulkan Fuego, aus nur zwei Kilometern Entfernung beim Feuerspucken beobachten kann.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Last preparations for a magnificent weekend trip with a group of 21 people: We are going to climb Volcán de Acatenango today, from where we can watch its active neighbour, Volcán de Fuego, spit fire from only two kilometres distance in the night.</span><br />
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Da wollen wir rauf! Der Bus bringt uns bis auf 2500 Meter, von da an geht's zu Fuß und schwer beladen mit Wasser, Futter, Zelt und warmen Klamotten weiter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">That's where we want to go! The bus takes us up to 2500 metres, and from there we hike heavily loaded with water, food, tent and warm clothes.</span><br />
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Der erste Abschnitt wird landwirtschaftlich genutzt, wir wandern eine Stunde lang durch Mais- und Gemüsefelder und Viehweiden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The first part is farmland, for one hour we walk through corn and vegetable fields and pastures.</span><br />
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Es folgt der schattige Nebelwald, und als ob die Wanderung nicht anstrengend genug wäre, kraxeln ein paar Kinder während einer Trinkpause auch noch auf einen Baum! Also echt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Afterwards, there is a cloud forest. As if the hike isn't strenuous enough, a couple of children climb up a tree during a drink break!</span><br />
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Blick nach Nordwesten zum Vulkan Atitlán.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View to Volcán de Atitlán northwest of us.</span><br />
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Mittagspause. Zeit, die Socken zu trocknen! Hab ich erwähnt, dass Wanderwege aus Vulkangestein nicht unbedingt staubfrei sind?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lunchbreak. Time to dry our socks! Did I mention that hiking paths on volcanic material aren't quite dust free?</span><br />
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Am Nachmittag geht die Landschaft in einen Nadelwald über, man fühlt sich ein bisschen nach Kanada versetzt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the afternoon, the landscape changes to a pine forest - feels a little bit like Canada suddenly.</span><br />
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Nach sieben Stunden erreichen wir unser Nachtlager, die relativ (!) windstille Mulde zwischen den beiden Kratern des Vulkans Acatenango auf 3760 Metern.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After seven hours, we arrive at our base camp in the relatively (!) windless hollow between the two craters of the Acatenango volcano on 3760 metres.</span><br />
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Bevor wir ganz zum südlichen Krater (rechts hinter Dave) aufsteigen, dürfen wir ein paar Stunden ausspannen und bauen die Zelte auf.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Before we ascend all the way up the south crater (behind Dave), we get to relax for a couple of hours and set up the tents.</span><br />
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Auf geht's zum Sonnenuntergang anschauen auf den Gipfel!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Let's go see the sunset from the peak!</span><br />
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Leider ziehen ausgerechnet jetzt immer dickere Wolken über den Vulkan...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Unfortunately, the clouds coming in over the volcano are getting thicker...</span><br />
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... und auf den letzten hundert Metern wird klar, dass wir den Sonnenuntergang vergessen können.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and on our last one hundred metres it becomes clear that we have to forget about the sunset.</span><br />
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Oben angekommen, trotzen wir dem brutalen Wind und machen nur schnell ein paar Gruppenfotos, denn zu sehen gibt es leider rein gar nichts. Das hier ist unsere Zeltmannschaft, bestehend aus Dave und mir, Rachael und unseren beiden Mitbewohnern Scott und Maegan.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Upon arrival at the peak, we brave the brutal wind and just take a few quick group pictures because there's absolutely nothing to see. This is our tent team consisting of Dave and I, Rachael and our two house mates Scott and Maegan.</span><br />
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Aufwärmen am Lagerfeuer, Abendessen und um 20 Uhr ist ein Großteil der Leute tief im Schlafsack vergraben. Es ist KALT!!!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Warming up at the camp fire, dinner and at 8 pm the majority of the people is buried deep inside their sleeping bags. It is COLD!!!</span><br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 30. März:</u></b><br />
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Um vier Uhr ist der Weckruf für alle, die nochmal auf den Gipfel wollen. Es ist saukalt, windig und stockfinster, aber sternenklar - also keine Frage: Nix wie raus aus dem gemütlichen Schlafsack! Während des anderthalbstündigen Aufstiegs erkennt man zunächst nur die Lichter der Städte weit unter uns, dann den Gipfel des Vulkans Agua im Osten, der von ein paar Wolken umrahmt ist.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Wakeup call at 4 o'clock for those who want to climb up to the peak again. It's damn cold, windy and pitch dark but starry - so there is no question about that: Let's get out of that cosy sleeping bag! During the one and a half hour hike, at first you can only see the lights of the towns way below us, then the peak of Volcán de Agua east of us, framed by some clouds.</span><br />
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Geschafft! Wir stehen auf 3976 Metern über dem Meer und können gar nicht genug kriegen von der fantastischen Aussicht rundherum...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Done! We're standing on 3976 metres above sea level and cannot get enough of the breathtaking view all around us...</span><br />
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... da tut uns auch schon der Volcán de Fuego den Gefallen auszubrechen. Vor lauter Sonnenaufgangfotografieren hätten wir ihn fast vergessen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... when already the Volcán de Fuego does us the favour to erupt. Because of all the taking pictures of the sunrise, we nearly forgot about that!</span><br />
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Mit einer kleinen Verzögerung kann man die Explosion sogar hören!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">With a little bit of a delay, we can even hear the explosion!</span><br />
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Nach wenigen Minuten ein zweiter Ausbruch. Mittlerweile kann man das blaue Zelt eines besonders eifrigen Vulkanbeobachters mitten im Krater erkennen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Second eruption after only a few minutes. By now, you can see the blue tent of a particularly eager volcano watcher right in the centre of the crater.</span><br />
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Blick nach Nordwesten zu den drei Vulkanen, die den Lago de Atitlán umrahmen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View of the three volcanos surrounding the Lago de Atitlán northwest of us.</span><br />
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Gerade geht die Sonne auf, da spuckt der Vulcán de Fuego wieder etwas Rauch und Asche.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Just when the sun rises, the Volcán de Fuego spits some smoke and ashes again.</span><br />
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Blick nach Osten zum Vulcán de Agua.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View of Volcán de Agua east of us.</span><br />
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Dave (rechts) mit ein paar anderen Teilnehmern der Tour.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave (right) with some of the other tour participants.</span><br />
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Jetzt kann man gut den Kraterrand erkennen, auf dem wir um den Vulkan Acatenango herumgegangen sind. Und unseren massiven Schatten (blau, links).<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Now you can see the rim of the crater we've been walking around the Acatenango volcano on. And our massive shadow (blue, left).</span><br />
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Das Twix, das ich mir als Frühstück eingepackt habe, ist steinhart gefroren!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The Twix bar I brought as a breakfast is frozen rock hard!</span><br />
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Blick nach Norden zum anderen Krater unseres Vulkans und auf unser Zeltlager in der Mitte, hoch über den Wolken.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View north to the other crater of our volcano and down on our base camp in between, high above the clouds.</span><br />
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Zeit, Abschied zu nehmen: Wir haben Hunger!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Time to say good-bye: We are starving!</span><br />
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Frühstück im Camp<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Breakfast in the camp</span><br />
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Jetzt kapier ich, warum Bagels in der Mitte ein Loch haben!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">I finally understand why bagels have a hole in the middle!</span><br />
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Gruppenfoto<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Group picture</span><br />
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Nur einer der vielen schönen Ausblicke während des Abstiegs. Was für ein unbeschreiblich geiles Naturerlebnis das war!!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Only one of the countless beautiful views during our descend. What an indescribably awesome nature experience this was!!</span><br />
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Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala14.553405 -90.73525514.491931 -90.815936 14.614879 -90.654574tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-57610906418917141282014-03-19T16:13:00.003-07:002014-03-30T21:57:07.891-07:00Flores bis Antigua<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Sonntag, 2. März:</u></b></div>
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Ankunft in Flores, einer kleinen Stadt auf einer Insel im Lago Petén Itzá. Ich war zwar noch nie in Lindau am Bodensee, aber als ich Luftaufnahmen von Flores gesehen habe, kamen mir die seltsamerweise sehr bekannt vor (<a href="http://sunrisetravel-antigua.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Isla-de-Flores.jpg" target="_blank">Flores</a> / <a href="http://www.bodenseehotel-lindau.de/uploads/media/bodensee_21.jpg" target="_blank">Lindau</a>).<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Arrival in Flores, a small town on an island in Lago Petén Itzá. It reminds me a lot of a town in Lake Bodensee in Germany.</span></div>
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Das beste Abendessen seit langem: Direkt an der Uferpromenade vermarkten diese Standlfrauen ihre hausgemachten Spezialitäten, von Fleisch und Gemüse über Kuchen und andere Süßigkeiten bis zu Saft ist alles dabei. Unser Favorit: Eine Art Dampfnudel, mit Vanillequark gefüllt und in Zimtwasser schwimmend serviert.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Best dinner in a long time: These women sell their homemade specialties right on the lake promenade, anything from meat and vegetables, cakes and other sweets to fruit juices. Our favourite: a deep fried dumpling, filled with custard and served with cinnamon water.</span></div>
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Sonnenuntergang am See.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sunset at the lake.</span><br />
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Wir lernen Pablo aus Argentinien kennen, der schon seit zwölf Jahren mit dem Fahrrad unterwegs ist und sich mit dem Verkauf von Reisevideos finanziert. Sein Blog: www.theworldbybike.com bzw. www.pedaleandoelglobo.com<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We get to know Pablo from Argentina, who has been on the road for twelve years, financing his trip with his own travel videos. His blog: www.theworldbybike.com bzw. www.pedaleandoelglobo.com</span></div>
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Auf der anderen Straßenseite spielt eine Marimbaband, und überhaupts ist die ganze Stadt unterwegs. Wir atmen auf: Guatemala fängt auf jeden Fall schon mal gut an!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On the other side of the road, there'a a marimba band playing. And the whole town is out and about. We are so relieved: It's a very good start already in Guatemala!</span></div>
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Später lernen wir in einem Reisebüro das englisch-walisische Pärchen Chris und Nicola kennen, die morgen ebenfalls die Ruinen in Tikal besichtigen wollen. Spontan gehen wir noch auf einen kleinen Schluck in eine Bar, und es wird eine sehr lustige Runde. Allerdings nur kurz, denn für die morgige Tour müssen wir schon sehr früh raus...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Later, in a travel agency, we meet Chris and Nicola from England / Wales who also want to visit the Maya ruins of Tikal tomorrow. We go for a drink together, and it turns into a real fun evening, but as we all have to get up really early for the tour tomorrow we cannot stay too long...</span></div>
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<b><u>Montag, 3. März:</u></b><br />
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Die Mayaruinen von Tikal auf einer Übersichtskarte am Eingang des Parks. Das Gelände ist riesig, und da es von einem dichten Urwald total überwachsen ist, kann man sich sehr leicht verlaufen - ein Kanadier musste sich hier einmal sieben Tage lang von Blättern ernähren, bis er endlich gefunden wurde.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At the entrance of the park, there's a map showing all the buildings and paths of Tikal. The area is huge, and as it's totally overgrown by a thick jungle, you can easily get lost in it - a Canadian had to live on leaves for seven days once before he was found.</span></div>
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Unsere Reisegruppe mit Führer Donald, der auch den grantigsten Morgenmuffel um 6 Uhr schon zum Lachen bringt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our group with guide Donald who can make the grumpiest morning person laugh at 6 am.</span></div>
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El Ceiba, der Nationalbaum von Guatemala. Schaut von unten her aus wie eine überdimensionale Tarantel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">El Ceiba, the national tree of Guatemala. Looks like an oversized Tarantula from beneath.</span></div>
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Erste Kletterstation: Von dort oben...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">First climbing station: From up there...</span><br />
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... kann man weit entfernt die Spitze eines anderen Tempels sehen, tief im Urwald versteckt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... you can spot the tip of another temple, far in the distance and deep in the jungle.</span><br />
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Blick hinunter auf die Opferaltäre.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View down to the offering altars.</span><br />
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Im Vordergrund eine Steinmauer, bevor die Archäologen sich daran gemacht haben. Hinten das Ergebnis von sieben Jahren schwerer Rekonstruktionsarbeit.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the foreground, there's a stone wall before the archaeologists have started working on it. In the background, the result of seven years of hard reconstruction work.</span></div>
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"Fahrzeuge verboten". Also hatten die Mayas doch schon Autos?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">"No vehicles". So the Mayas did have cars after all?</span><br />
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Zentraler Platz der Anlage.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Central plaza of Tikal.</span><br />
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Donald versucht uns verschiedene Tierrufe beizubringen, mit denen er während der Tour immer wieder Vögel und Affen anlockt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Donald is trying to teach us how to make all those animal sounds he uses during the tour in order to lure birds and monkeys.</span></div>
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Menschliche Maske, etwa anderthalb Meter hoch.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Human mask, approximately one and a half metres tall.</span><br />
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Radfahren hilft null fürs Klettern. Die Stufen sind so steil, dass ich mich auf allen Vieren vorwärts bewege, und auf halber Höhe brauche ich eine Pause. Die spinnen, die Mayas!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Cycling is zero help when it comes to climbing. The steps are so steep that I have to walk with hands and feet, and half way up I need a break. Those Mayans are crazy!</span></div>
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Relief in einer Steinplatte.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Relief in a stone slab.</span><br />
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"Fliegende Banane"<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">"Flying banana"</span><br />
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In den Innenräumen erkennen wir die typisch zugespitzte Form wieder, die auch die Mayaruinen in Palenque in Gängen, Fenstern und Grabmälern hatten.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Inside the buildings we recognize the typical pointy shape that we already saw in hallways, windows and tombs of the Maya ruins in Palenque.</span></div>
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Nicht nur Archäologen, sondern auch Gärtner sind hier im Dauereinsatz, um der Natur Einhalt zu gebieten. Mit einer Machete zerhackt dieser Mann das Gestrüpp am Weg.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Not only the archaeologists but also landscapers are working 24/7 here in order to put a stop to nature. This man is hacking away the shrub along the path with a machete.</span></div>
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Natürlich ist es verboten, die hier lebenden Tiere zu füttern. Aber einen Affen mit ein paar hingehaltenen Chips zum Tanzen zu bringen, ist in Ordnung??<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Of course it's not allowed to feed the animals here. But making a monkey dance with a couple of chips in your hand is okay??</span></div>
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Hoch oben über unseren Köpfen sehen wir im Ganzen etwa zwanzig Affen, aber auf den Fotos sind immer nur verschwommene Blätter. Naja.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We get to see more than twenty monkeys high above our heads, but in the pictures there are mostly blurry leaves. Oh well.</span></div>
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Donald erklärt nicht nur die Ruinen und die Arbeit der Archäologen, sondern auch die Flora und Fauna des Parks auf seine unterhaltsame Weise. Diesen Baum nennt er "Touristenbaum", weil der auch so eine rote Haut hat, die sich schält.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Donald doesn't only explain the ruins and the archaeologists' work but also the flora and fauna of the park - always in his entertaining way. For example, he calls this kind of tree "tourist tree" because it's got this red flaky skin that peels off.</span></div>
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Wilder Koreander.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Wild coreander (cilantro).</span><br />
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Und wieder bunte Vögel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And colourful birds again.</span><br />
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Die Maya hatten eine sehr interessante Kultur der Vergangenheitsbewältigung und des Neuanfangs: Einfach alle paar Jahrzehnte eine neue Schicht Steine auf die alten Tempel auftragen. Rundrum, so dass die Gebäude quasi ständig wachsen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The Mayans had a very interesting culture of overcoming the past and initiating a fresh start: Every few decades, they just added a new layer of bricks to the old temples. All around, so that the buildings grew constantly.</span></div>
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Detailansicht an einer Ecke des Tempels: Man erkennt drei solche Schichten, jede ist etwa 60 Zentimeter dick.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The close-up on one corner of a temple shows three such layers, each of them about 60 centimetres thick.</span></div>
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Kleiner Frosch voller Sand.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Little frog full of sand.</span><br />
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Höhepunkt des Ausflugs, nicht nur im übertragenen Sinne: 196 Stufen rauf auf den Tempel IV zum höchsten Punkt von Tikal. Die Aussicht über den endlosen Dschungel, aus dem vereinzelt Steinbrocken in die Höhe ragen, gepaart mit dem Geschrei der Affen und dem Gesang der Vögel, ist unbeschreiblich. Zusammen mit zwei weiteren Paaren sitzen wir lang dort oben auf den Stufen und ratschen und genießen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Highlight of the tour is the highest point of Tikal. You climb 196 steps up to Temple IV and have an amazing view over the endless jungle, with a couple of rocks sticking out from the trees. Together with the monkeys' cries and the birds' singing, it's an indescribably beautiful experience. We sit on the steps for a long time with two other couples and chat and enjoy.</span></div>
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Rückmarsch.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The way back.</span><br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 4. und Mittwoch, 5. März:</u></b><br />
Wir verbringen noch zwei sehr entspannte Tage in Flores, lesen viel und machen kleine Spaziergänge.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We spend two more very relaxed days in Flores, read a lot and go for short walks.</span></div>
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Kirche von Flores<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Church of Flores</span><br />
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Zum Abschied nochmal ein schöner Sonnenuntergang am See.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And another beautiful sunset at the lake on our last evening.</span><br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 6. März:</u></b><br />
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Weiterfahrt Richtung Cobán. Nach der ungeplant langen Radlabstinenz ist die angenehm grüne Umgebung mit ihren sanften Hügeln ein perfekter Neustart. Es tut richtig gut, einmal wieder aus eigener Kraft vorwärts zu kommen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We ride towards Cobán. After the unplanned long abstinence from our bikes, the nice green scenery with its gentle hills are a perfect start for us. It feels so good to finally make some progress by ourselves again!</span><br />
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An dieser Tankstelle reißen sich zwölf junge Männer in Gummistiefeln um jedes auch noch so saubere Fahrzeug. Die Autowäsche ist zwar kostenlos, aber vom Trinkgeld kann man anscheinend leben...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At this petrol station, twelve young men in rubber boots scramble to get to clean even the shiniest car. The car wash itself is free but apparently one can live off the tips...</span><br />
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Am frühen Nachmittag bekommen wir eine "Abkühlung" auf wohlige 26 Grad durch einen tropischen Regenschauer. Patschnass erreichen wir Sayaxché am Río de la Pasión, den wir per Fähre überqueren. Um etwa 19 Uhr fällt in der ganzen Stadt der Strom aus - den gelangweilten Reaktionen der Einheimischen nach zu urteilen nichts Ungewöhnliches. Der Hotelbesitzer bringt uns eine Kerze, meint das könne länger dauern. Wir lesen und gehen früh ins Bett, schadet ja auch nicht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the early afternoon, a tropical rainstorm "cools" us down to some pleasant 26 degrees. We're soaking wet when we arrive in Sayaxché, where we have to cross the Río de la Pasión by ferry. At around 7 pm there's a power outage in the whole town - nothing special judging from the bored reactions of the locals. The hotel owner brings us a candle saying it could be a while. We read and go to bed early.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 77,61 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 18,24 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Casa Grande in Sayaxché<br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 7. März:</u></b><br />
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Nationalpark El Rosario: Dichter Dschungel rundrum!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the El Rosario national park, we're surrounded by thick rainforest.</span><br />
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Blick zur Seite.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View to the side.</span><br />
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Ansonsten reiht sich ein kleines Bauerndorf ans nächste, mit Viehweiden dazwischen. Die Geburtenrate scheint hier extrem hoch zu sein, den vielen Kindern pro Haushalt nach zu urteilen, die aufgeregt zusammenlaufen, wann immer sie uns erspähen. Sie rufen "Gringo, Gringo!" und winken fröhlich.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Other than that, there's one little farming village after the other, with pastures in between. The birth rate here seems to be particularly high, judging from the amount of children per household who all come running in excitement when they spot us. The shout "Gringo, Gringo!" and wave friendly.</span><br />
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Mangels besserer Möglichkeiten machen wir erst in einem Dorf Feierabend, in dem wir vor der Schule campen dürfen. 26 Kinder scharen sich um uns, als wir das Zelt aufbauen! Wir zählen auf Englisch und doof wie ich bin, lasse ich mich anschließend zu einer Partie Fußball im Dunkeln hinreißen...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Due to the lack of better options, we only stop riding in a village where we can camp in front of the school. There are 26 children watching us pitch the tent! We count in English and in a moment of mental derangement, I allow myself to be driven into a soccer match in the dark...</span><br />
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Super Idee mit Fahrradschuhen in einer feuchten Wiese!!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Awesome idea with bike shoes in a wet field!!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 81,89 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,69 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Wiese / Fußballplatz neben einer Dorfschule<br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 8. März:</u></b><br />
In der Früh stehen wieder die Kinder um uns rum, der erste klopft sogar schon um halb sieben ans Zelt! Uns fällt auf, dass sie zwar alles antatschen und uns genau einen halben Meter Platz zum Werken geben, aber sie sind mucksmäuschenstill.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At half past six, the first child knocks on our tent, and when we pack up, the whole crowd is standing around us again. We notice that they touch everything and only leave us like half a metre space to work, but they are as quiet as a mouse.</span><br />
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Heute fahren wir ein Stück an einer Ölpipeline entlang, die in den Dörfern gern mal als Wäscheleine genutzt wird. Im Hintergrund ein typisches Einfamilienhaus, wobei ich darauf hinweisen möchte, dass man leider die Satellitenschüssel nicht sieht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, we ride along an oil pipeline that also serves as a washing line in some of the villages. In the background you can see a typical family home, but what I would like to point out is that unfortunately, you cannot see the satellite dish from this perspective.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 40,8 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 15,24 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Estancia de la Virgen in Chisec<br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 9. März:</u></b></div>
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Von Chisec aus geht es zunächst harmlos weiter durch die grünen Hügel Guatemalas, doch als wir an einem Berg mit 15 bis 18 % Steigung Pause machen, hält ein LKW an und fragt, ob er uns mitnehmen soll...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">From Chisec, it's a fairly harmless ride through the green landscape of Guatemala until we get to a really steep hill with a 15 to 18 % grade. We take a break halfway up when a truck stops and asks us if we want a ride...</span><br />
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Schnell haben wir unsere Fahrräder in den Metallcontainer geladen und uns selbst obenauf geschwungen, wo bereits drei andere Fahrgäste hocken. Eigentlich war unser Ziel für heute Cobán, doch als wir den Fahrer fragen, ob er zufällig in die Nähe von Antigua fährt, erklärt dieser: "Ja, nur 40 Kilometer von Antigua entfernt." Diese Gelegenheit packen wir beim Schopf! Nach einer Weile beginnt es zu regnen; der Fahrer hält an um uns in den Laderaum hinuntersteigen zu lassen. Leider ist dieser jedoch nicht nur wasser- sondern auch licht- und luftdicht, sodass uns nach gefühlten zwei Stunden Höllenfahrt auf der kurvenreichen Gebirgsstraße nicht nur einigermaßen schlecht ist, sondern wir beim nächsten Halt auch feststellen müssen, dass die schöne grüne Landschaft plötzlich weg ist!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We quickly load our gear into the metal container of the truck and swing ourselves onto the top where three other passengers are sitting. Our plan was to get to Cobán today, but when we ask the driver if he happens to go anywhere close to Antigua, he says: "Yes, only 40 kilometres from Antigua." Score! We seize the opportunity with both hands. After a while, it starts raining and the driver stops to let us go into the cargo bay. Unfortunately, that's not only waterproof but also light- and airtight so that after what feels like a two hour windy descend into hell, we are pretty sick and at the next stop, we have to realize that the nice green landscape is gone!</span><br />
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Als es wieder trocken ist, lässt uns der Fahrer wieder auf unseren Aussichtsbalkon in luftiger Höhe klettern, wo wir mit wachsender Besorgnis die kleiner werdenden Kilometerangaben Richtung Guatemala City beobachten: Da wollten wir auf keinen Fall hin! Aber es kommt, wie es kommen musste: Ende der Fahrt ist tatsächlich in der als sehr gefährlich eingestuften Hauptstadt Guatemalas, und zwar nach Sonnenuntergang. Scheiße! Wir haben keine Ahnung, wo wir sind und wo wir hinsollen, es wird immer dunkler und Hotels sind Mangelware. Außerdem ist unser Frühstück schon viel zu lange her, und seitdem haben wir nichts gegessen. Über eine Stunde lang irren wir in dieser chaotischen Stadt umher, folgen den Wegbeschreibungen einiger Leute, jedoch erfolglos. Es ist längst stockdunkel, als wir ratlos an einer mehrspurigen Stadtautobahn stehen und verzweifelt nach einem Weg auf die andere Seite suchen. Ein Auto hält an und heraus steigt eine vierköpfige Familie samt Babybauch, die den Ernst unserer Lage erkannt hat und uns helfen will. Die Mutter weiß ein Hotel nicht allzu weit weg, allerdings sei diese Gegend hier ziemlich gefährlich, wir sollten auf keinen Fall allein hier rumsuchen. Sie besteht darauf, uns zu Fuß zu begleiten (schwanger und in Stöckelschuhen!), während ihr Mann mit den Kindern im Auto nebenher fährt, zur Sicherheit. Etwa zwei Kilometer sind es, und die Familie wartet sogar noch vor dem Hotel, bis wir ein Zimmer angeschaut und für gut befunden haben - falls wir noch etwas bräuchten. Diese Leute hat uns der Himmel geschickt, echt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When it stops raining, the driver lets us climb onto our viewing balcony again, from where we watch with growing concern that the road signs keep showing less and less kilometres to Guatemala City: That's the one place we definitely wanted to avoid at any cost! But of course, that's exactly where we end up: The end of the ride is the graded "highly dangerous" capital of Guatemala, and to crown the calamity, it's already after sunset. Shit! We have no clue where we are and where we should go, it's getting dark quickly and there are no hotels. Also, our breakfast was way too long ago and that's the last time we ate anything. We wander around this chaotic city for over an hour, follow some people's directions but without any success. It's already pitch-black when we stand on the side of a six-lane city highway helplessly, trying desperately to find a way across. A car stops, and out comes a family of four plus one big belly who realize right away what situation we're in and want to help. The mother knows a hotel not too far away, but tells us the area here is too dangerous for us to be looking around by ourselves. She insists on walking us there (pregnant and in high heels!), while her husband drives the car next to us, for safety. It's about two kilometres, and the family even waits outside the hotel until we've looked at a room and decided to take it - in case we still need them. Those people were sent from above, really!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 21,36 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 10 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Atlantidis in Guatemala City<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 10. März:</u></b><br />
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Da wir schon einmal hier sind, wollen wir die Stadt wenigstens ein bisschen kennen lernen, bevor wir weiterziehen. Abgesehen vom Straßenverkehr, der mit Worten einfach nicht zu beschreiben ist, fühlen wir uns während des Tages nicht mehr bedroht als sonstwo. Wir ziehen um in ein Hotel in der Stadtmitte, von wo aus wir einen Erkundungsspaziergang durch das historische Zentrum machen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Since we are here anyway, we want to get to know the city a little bit before we take off again. Apart from the traffic, which simply is beyond description, we don't feel more threatened during the day than anywhere else. We move into a hotel downtown from where we go exploring the historic city centre.</span><br />
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Zebrastreifen, mal wörtlich genommen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">"Zebra walk", literally.</span><br />
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Nationalpalast.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">National palace.</span><br />
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Kathedrale<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Cathedral</span><br />
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Lila Beflaggung zur Fastenzeit.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Purple flags for lent.</span><br />
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Und plötzlich steht eine alte Bekannte aus Kanada vor uns: Wendy's, die beste Burgerkette Nordamerikas!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Suddenly, an old acquaintance from Canada is standing in front of us: Wendy's, the best burger chain of North America!</span><br />
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Da können wir doch nicht einfach so vorbeigehen, oder?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We cannot just walk past, can we?</span><br />
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Behindertengerechte Stadtbusse.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Wheelchair accessible city buses.</span><br />
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Sonderbare Wandmalerei.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Weird mural.</span><br />
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Smog. Am frühen Nachmittag war der Boden in unserem Hotelzimmer blank geputzt, doch als ich am Abend mit frisch gewaschenen Füßen die drei Meter vom Bad zum Bett gehe, erfahre ich am eigenen Körper, was Feinstaubbelastung bedeutet.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Smog. In the early afternoon, the floor in our hotel room was super clean. But when I go from the bathroom to the bed just after having a shower in the evening, I learn how polluted the air is with fine dust in these huge cities.</span><br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 11. März:</u></b><br />
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Der Mann an der Hotelrezeption reserviert uns einen Platz in einem Bus, der uns am Vormittag direkt vor dem Haus abholt und am frühen Nachmittag in Antigua absetzt. Diese gemütliche, uralte Stadt gefällt uns auf Anhieb mit ihren bunten Häuserfronten, den groben Steinstraßen und vielen Cafés, aus denen die unterschiedlichsten Sprachen klingen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The receptionist at the hotel reserves us two seats in a bus which picks us up from the hotel in the late morning and drops us off in Antigua in the early afternoon. We like this old town right away, with its colourful house fronts, rough stone streets and many cafés from which you can hear all sorts of languages!</span><br />
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Sogar Pferdekutschen gibt es hier!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">You can even go by horse carriage here!</span><br />
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Auf der Straße spricht uns der Franzose Joscelin an, der vor 15 Monaten mit dem Fahrrad in Ushuaia losgefahren ist und uns quasi entgegenfährt. Da gibt es eine Menge zu erzählen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Joscelin from France chats us up in the street - he left Ushuaia by bicycle 15 months ago and is heading north. There's a lot to talk about!</span><br />
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Nach einem gemütlichen Kaffee gehen wir gemeinsam Abendessen und anschließend noch auf ein Bier. Gegenverkehr muss man ausnutzen, denn man sieht sich nur für kurze Zeit und will jede Kleinigkeit wissen, die auf einen zukommt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After a nice coffee, we go and have dinner together, and afterwards we go for a beer. It's important to seize the opportunity of oncoming traffic because you won't see them for long but you want to know everything that's ahead of you!</span><br />
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Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala14.553405 -90.73525514.491931 -90.815936 14.614879 -90.654574tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-49059159288192672652014-03-01T06:44:00.000-08:002014-03-03T21:52:43.904-08:00¡Bienvenidos a Guatemala!<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Die erste gute Nachricht: Nach vier Anläufen haben wir es tatsächlich geschafft: Wir sind in Guatemala!</b><br />
<b>Die zweite gute Nachricht: Wenn's drauf ankommt, reichen meine paar Brocken Spanisch, um einem gestandenen Mexikaner deutlich klarzumachen, dass derjenige anschafft, der bezahlt. Ist heute gleich dreimal passiert. Was für ein Tag!!</b><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><b>Good news, part one: After four tries, we finally made it: We are in Guatemala!</b></span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><b>Good news, part two: If I'm desperate enough, my pathetic Spanish skills are sufficient to make a seasoned Mexican understand that the one who's paying is the one who's calling the shots. Happened three times today. What a day!!</b></span><br />
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Dritter Versuch (nachdem es gestern weder per Sammeltaxi noch per Reiseveranstalter geklappt hat): Punkt sechs Uhr morgens (also so um zwanzig nach) holt uns dieser Kleinbus eines Reiseveranstalters vor dem Hostel in Palenque ab. So war es ausgemacht, und der Ticketverkäufer, dem wir unser komplettes Gepäck vorgeführt haben, hat uns versichert: Kein Problem, keine Extrakosten. Tja. Als der Fahrer heute morgen sieht, was wir ihm alles aufs Dach laden wollen, knickt er ein - angeblich, weil er befürchtet, wir müssten eventuell mehr für die Fähre bezahlen. Wir sollen doch um acht Uhr zurück zum Reisebüro gehen um unser Geld zurückzubekommen. Da kommt zum ersten Mal heute die geballte Ladung Frustration, Wut und gebrochenes Spanisch zum Einsatz: Nach einem kurzen Telefonat mit seinem Chef gibt der Fahrer uns unser Geld zurück und düst ohne uns ab. Na wunderbar!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Third attempt (after it didn't work out yesterday, neither via collectivo nor via tour company): At 6 am sharp (well, twenty past six) this tour bus picks us up in front of the hostel in Palenque. That's how it was arranged, and the sales person in the ticket office, whom we had shown all our gear, had guaranteed us: no problem, no extra costs. Haha. When the driver sees the load we are about to put on his roof, he tells us that there might be a problem at the ferry, or at least an extra fee. We should go to the ticket office at 8 am to get our money back. That's when my concentrated force of frustration, anger and broken Spanish are used for the first time today: After a quick phone call to his boss, the driver hands us our money and dashes off without us. Great!</span></div>
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Vierter Versuch: Verzweifelt, wie wir sind, fahren wir wieder zur Sammeltaxizentrale. Diesmal lassen wir uns von keinem der übereifrigen Fahrer belabern, sondern marschieren schnurstracks zum ersten Bus mit Dachträger und fangen an, ihn zu beladen. Unserem Fahrer geht das zu langsam, drum mischt er sich trotz unseres wiederholten "Nein danke, geht schon" ein - und lässt Daves Fahrradanhänger mitsamt den Instrumenten kopfüber fallen. Als ich ihn vor versammelter Mannschaft anraunze, er soll gefälligst vorsichtig mit unserem Gepäck umgehen, schluckt er das nur sehr widerwillig. Später höre ich, wie ein Kollege tröstend so etwas sagt wie "Mann, was für ein biestiges Weibsbild!"<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Fourth attempt: Desperate as we are, we ride to the collectivo station. This time, we don't listen to any of the eager drivers but go straight to the first bus with a roof rack and start loading it. Our driver gets impatient, so he interferes even though we tell him several times we want to do it ourselves - and drops Dave's trailer with the instruments upside down. He has to swallow very hard when I yell at him to kindly handle our stuff carefully in front of everybody. Later, I hear a colleague console him with something like "Man, what a beastly woman!"</span><br />
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Wie wir gestern bereits herausgefunden haben, bringt uns das Sammeltaxi nicht direkt bis zur Fähre am Grenzfluss, sondern nur bis zu einer Abzweigung an der Hauptstraße, von der aus wir noch 15 Kilometer per Fahrrad zurücklegen müssen. Der Taxifahrer versucht zunächst noch, uns eine Extragebühr fürs Gepäck abzuschwatzen, beißt aber leider auf Granit. In Frontera Corozal angekommen, müssen wir eine Touristensteuer von 15 Pesos (0,85 Euro) pro Person bezahlen, um uns dann von einem kleinen Fratzen als "Gringos" bezeichnen lassen zu müssen. Und der Höhepunkt ist dann der mexikanische Zollbeamte, der 295 Pesos (16 Euro) pro Person für die Ausreise kassieren will. Wir erklären ihm, dass wir diese Gebühr bei der Einreise bereits beglichen haben, aber ohne Beleg nimmt er uns das nicht ab. Der Stempel im Pass und die Einreisekarte, die wir natürlich erst nach der Geldübergabe bekommen haben, genügen ihm dafür nicht. Glücklicherweise findet Dave in seinem Geldbeutel einen Kassenzettel mit dem richtigen Datum und dem richtigen Betrag - und schon haben wir den Ausreisestempel im Pass.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As we found out yesterday, the collectivo doesn't bring us all the way to the ferry but only to a turn-off at the main road from where we have to ride 15 kilometres. The driver tries to charge us an extra fee for the luggage but has to leave without. In Frontera Corozal, we have to pay a tourist tax of 15 pesos (1.25 CAD) per person - just to have a little brat call us "Gringos". And the highlight is the Mexican border official who wants to collect 295 pesos (24.60 CAD) non-immigration fee per person. We explain to him that we've already paid that amount upon entry but without a receipt he won't believe us. The stamp in our passports and the immigration card which of course we only got after paying the fee are no proof of payment, he says. But then Dave finds an old receipt in his wallet that has the right date and the right amount on it - with that we get our passports stamped.</span><br />
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Der Río Usumacinta, Grenzfluss zwischen Mexiko und Guatemala.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The Río Usumacinata is the border between Mexico and Guatemala.</span><br />
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"Fähre" ist vielleicht ein bisschen übertrieben ausgedrückt...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">"Ferry" might be a big word for those tiny boats we find here...</span><br />
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!Adiós Mexico!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">¡Adiós Mexico!</span></div>
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Auf der anderen Seite werden wir von einer Brüllaffenmutter und ihren zwei Jungen begrüßt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On the other side, we are greeted by a female howler monkey with two babies.</span><br />
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Mit einem Linienbus fahren wir schließlich weiter von Bethel nach Flores. Die Einreise nach Guatemala verläuft so schnell, unkompliziert und vor allem gebührenfrei, dass wir es gar nicht fassen können. Noch vier Stunden Holterdipolter über eine grobe Kiesstraße, bevor wir endlich duschen können und hundemüde, aber total erleichtert ins Bett fallen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We take a bus from Bethel to Flores. Immigration in Guatemala is so quick, easy and above all free of charge - we cannot believe it. Only a four hour bumpy bus ride on a rough gravel road before we can finally take a shower and fall into bed totally knackered but relieved to be here.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 17,12 km per Fahrrad (plus 7 Stunden per Bus und Fähre)<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 13,92 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Mayaland Plaza Hotel in Santa Elena (Vorort von Flores, Endstation des Linienbusses)</div>
Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Santa Elena, Guatemala16.9181251 -89.892606516.857356600000003 -89.9732875 16.9788936 -89.8119255tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-48742227705431567042014-02-28T18:30:00.000-08:002014-02-28T19:51:00.488-08:00Tuxtla Gutiérrez bis nach Palenque: ¡Adiós, Mexico!<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Sonntag, 16. Februar:</u></b></div>
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Auf der Fahrt von Tuxtla Gutiérrez nach San Cristóbal de las Casas überqueren wir den Río Grijalva, der den Cañón del Sumidero durchfließt. Das Gebiet ist ein Nationalpark, und die Luftaufnahmen, mit denen die vielen Anbieter von Bootstouren werben, sind wirklich umwerfend. Leider auch der Gestank auf der Brücke. "Sumidero" heißt Gully; der Fluss dient als Abwasserleitung und Mülldeponie für über eine halbe Million Leute! Gut, dass wir uns vorab informiert haben, denn so eine Sauerei muss man nicht auch noch unterstützen!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">On our way from Tuxtla Gutiérrez to San Cristóbal de las Casas, we cross the Río Grijalva which flows through the Cañon del Sumidero. The area is a national park, and the aerial photographies the boat tour companies advertise their trips with are breathtaking. But so is the smell on the bridge. "Sumidero" means sewer; the river serves as a waste pipe and garbage dump for over half a million people! Good thing we did our research because we sure don't want to support such a disgrace!</span></div>
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Frieren tut es uns heute nicht. Könnte daran liegen, dass es einer unserer bisher heißesten Radltage ist. Oder daran, dass wir an unserem bisher längsten Berg arbeiten: 42 Kilometer stetig aufwärts, allerdings bei nur 5-6 % Steigung. Von der Straße aus hat man einen weiten Blick über die Umgebung.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We're not cold today. Might be because it's one of our hottest riding days so far. Or maybe because we're working on our longest hill so far: 42 kilometres uphill without a break, albeit at a relatively easy grade of 5-6 %. From the road, we have a wide view over the landscape.</span></div>
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Ziemlich genau auf halber Höhe machen wir Feierabend. Dave entdeckt einen Felsbrocken hoch über der Carretera, der flach und gerade groß genug für unser (Innen-)Zelt ist. Wir bauen uns eine Felsenburg!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Pretty much exactly at half the height we call it a day. Dave discovers a rock high above the Carretera that is flat and just big enough for our (inner) tent. We'll build ourselves a fortress!</span></div>
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Burgherr Dave.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lord of the castle.</span><br />
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Das Außenzelt steht etwas über den Felsen hinaus, was den Ein- und Ausstieg etwas erschwert. Aber wir finden, das trägt nur zu einem realistischen Burgleben bei!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The fly juts out over the rock which makes getting in and out a bit difficult. But in our opinion, that's important for the authentic fortress experience!</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 36,82 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 9,31 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: auf einem Felsen an einer Seitenstraße<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 17. Februar:</u></b><br />
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Unsere Felsenburg am Morgen. Von der Carretera aus sieht man sie nicht, aber die Passanten auf der kleinen Seitenstraße trauen ihren Augen nicht, als sie vorbeigehen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our fortress in the morning. It cannot be seen from the highway but the passers-by on the little side road don't trust their eyes when they spot us!</span></div>
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Ansonsten verläuft dieser Tag eher unspektakulär, bis wir nach fünf Stunden harter Arbeit die "magische Stadt" San Cristóbal de las Casas erreichen. Das Backpacker Hostel hier ist zwar teurer als erwartet, aber beim allabendlichen Lagerfeuer lernen wir endlich wieder andere Reisende kennen, mit denen wir uns richtig unterhalten können. Und zufällig treffen wir Peter wieder, einen Motorradfahrer aus London, den wir vor zwei Monaten in Mazatlán kennengelernt haben. Nach einer nervenaufreibenden Pannenserie und den damit verbundenen unverhofften Wartezeiten dank der hiesigen Schneckenpost muss er sich jetzt also auch noch unsere blöden Sprüche gefallen lassen, dass wir mit dem Fahrrad genauso schnell unterwegs sind wie er...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Other than that, this day is rather unspectacular until we arrive in the "magic town" of San Cristóbal de las Casas after five hours of hard work. The backpacker hostel is more expensive than we had expected but sitting around the daily campfire we finally get to know fellow travellers again, whom we can have a proper conversation with. And we run into Peter, a motorcyclist from London whom we met in Mazatlán two months ago. After a nerve-racking series of breakdowns and many unexpected days of waiting for replacement parts thanks to the snail mail here, the poor guy now has to endure our mean remarks about us travelling at the same speed as he does... </span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 27,89 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 8,37 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: Rossco Backpacker Hostel in San Cristóbal de las Casas</div>
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<b><u>Dienstag, 18. Februar:</u></b><br />
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Dave und ich machen einen Stadtspaziergang mit Artem aus Russland und Jaleesa aus Belgien.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I go explore the town with Artem from Russia and Jaleesa from Belgium.</span></div>
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Auf den Stufen zum Kircheneingang liegen Piniennadeln.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Pine needles covering the steps to the church.</span></div>
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Kirche Santo Domingo von innen. Der Blick schweift entlang reich verzierter Seitenwände und bleibt dann enttäuscht in einem nackten Altarraum hängen. Komisch.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The Santo Domingo church from inside. You walk along richly decorated walls and then stand in front of a naked sanctuary. Kind of disappointing.</span></div>
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Auf dem Marktplatz werden unter anderem lebende Hühner verkauft.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the market you can buy live chickens.</span></div>
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Landestypische Eigenwerbung: Vom Gashändler bis zum Tortillabäcker hat hier fast jeder einen Lautsprecher auf dem Autodach, um mehr öffentliche Aufmerksamkeit zu erregen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Typical advertisement: Every business, from the gas vendor to the tortilla baker, has a loudspeaker on the roof of their car to get more public attention.</span></div>
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Der anstrengende Weg zur Kirche Cerro de Guadalupe lohnt sich...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The strenuous hike up to the Cerro de Guadalupe church pays off...</span><br />
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... vor allem wegen der tollen Aussicht auf San Cristóbal de las Casas.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... especially because of the great view over San Cristóbal de las Casas.</span><br />
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Mobiler Messerschleifer in der Fußgängerzone.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Mobile knife sharpener in the pedestrian precinct.</span><br />
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Wahrzeichen der Stadt: die Kathedrale.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Landmark of the town: the cathedral.</span><br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 19. Februar und Donnerstag, 20. Februar:</u></b><br />
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Je länger wir hier sind, desto besser gefällt es uns in San Cristóbal de las Casas. Im Hostel machen wir viele neue Bekanntschaften und können uns gut entspannen. Vor allem der Austausch von Reiseerfahrungen, Ideen und Informationen sowie gemeinsame Unternehmungen mit anderen geben uns enormen Auftrieb.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The longer we are here the more we like it in San Cristóbal de las Casas. In the hostel, we make lots of new friends and can relax. Especially spending time with others and sharing travel experiences, ideas and information with them gives us a good push forward. </span></div>
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Dass es sowas gibt: Die Ungarin Orsi (sprich Orschi) ist die erste nicht Deutsch sprechende Person, der ich meinen Namen nicht zu erklären brauche - und umgekehrt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">What a coincidence: Orsi from Hungary is the first non German speaking person whom I don't have to explain my name to - and vice versa. </span></div>
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Dave und ich verbringen viel Zeit auf der Dachterrasse - lesend bzw. Sitar spielend.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I spend a lot of time on the roof terrace - reading and playing the sitar respectively.</span><br />
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Allabendliche Runde am Lagerfeuer.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Daily Campfire with lots of chatting.</span><br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 21. Februar:</u></b><br />
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Frühstück im Hostel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Breakfast in the hostel.</span><br />
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Ein paar der Hostelhaustiere beim Sonnenbaden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Some of the hostel pets lazing in the sun.</span><br />
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Wandgemälde im Hostel. Ihr seht schon: Uns taugt's hier recht gut. Drum bleiben wir doch noch einen Tag, obwohl wir am Morgen eigentlich fast abreisefertig sind. Dave will einfach nur den ganzen Tag Sitar üben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Mural in the hostel. As you can tell, we quite like it here. That's why we decide to stay another day even though our bikes are packed and ready to go this morning. Dave just wants to practice sitar all day.</span><br />
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Per Sammeltaxi (alter VW-Bus) mache ich mit ein paar Leuten aus dem Hostel einen Ausflug zu einem Dorf in der Nähe von San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chamula. Wenige Augenblicke nach diesem Foto stoppt der Fahrer, um noch zwei weitere Passagiere aufzuladen - somit sind wir 15. Einer muss stehen, zwei sitzen im Kofferraum.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Via collectivo (old VW bus) I take a trip to a village nearby, Chamula, with a few people from the hostel. Ten seconds after this picture, the driver stops and takes on another two passengers - so now we're 15. One is standing, two have to sit in the boot.</span><br />
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Am Marktplatz vor der Kirche San Juan Bautista steigen wir aus und sind sofort umgeben von bettelnden Kindern, Tuchverkäuferinnen und Schuhputzern. Alle Frauen tragen hier die traditionellen schwarzen Filzröcke der Tzotzil, bunt bestickte Blusen und kleine Kinder auf dem Rücken.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As soon as we get off in the market square in front of the San Juan Bautista church, we are surrounded by begging children, cloth vendors and shoe shiners. All the women here are wearing the traditional black felt skirts of the Tzotzil, colourful embroidered blouses and little children on their backs.</span><br />
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Mobiler Maiskolbenstand.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Corn on the cob stand.</span><br />
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Diese Firma ist in Mexiko allgemein überall präsent, von der kleinsten Imbissbude bis hinein in den Straßengraben (leider). Aber in Chamula hat sie einen besonders heiligen Status; jeder Kirchgänger bringt mindestens eine Flasche voll mit, denn durch Rülpsen kann man seine bösen Geister loswerden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This brand is generally present all over Mexico, from the tiniest food stand to the ditch (unfortunately). But in Chamula, it has a particularly holy status; every churchgoer brings at least one bottle of it because by burping you can get rid of the evil spirits in you.</span><br />
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Detailansicht der Kirchentür. Ab hier ist absolutes Fotografierverbot.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Detail of the church door. From here on, taking pictures is strictly prohibited.</span><br />
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Weiß, blau und grün sind auch im Innenraum die vorherrschenden Farben, doch zuerst fallen die Piniennadeln auf dem Boden, tausende brennende Kerzen und unzählige weiße und gelbe Blumen auf, und der Geruch von Wald, Rauch und Wachs steigt einem in die Nase.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">White, blue and green are the most prominent colours inside the church as well, but what you notice first are the pine needles on the floor, thousands of burning candles and countless white and yellow flowers, and the smell of forest, smoke and wax.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto aus dem Internet / <span style="color: #cc0000;">Picture from the internet</span></td></tr>
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Es gibt keine Bänke, keinen Altar, keine Kanzel, kein Ambo und keinen Chor. An den Seitenwänden entlang stehen Heiligenstatuen mit Spiegeln vor der Brust, die böse Geister abwehren sollen und Opfertische für Geld und Kerzen. In einer Ecke befindet sich ein Schrein mit einer liegenden Figur, die umgeben ist von Kinderschuhen und Spielsachen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There are no pews, no altar, no chancel, no podium and no loft. Along the side walls, there are statues of saints and donation tables for money and candles. In one corner, there is a shrine with a statue laying inside, surrounded by childrens' shoes and toys.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto aus dem Internet: Manche Familien bringen kleine Tische für die Kerzen mit. / <span style="color: #cc0000;">Picture from the internet: Some families bring small tables for the candles.</span></td></tr>
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Überall auf dem Boden hocken kleinere Gruppen, die zusammen ein Ritual begehen: Zuerst wird eine Fläche von den Piniennadeln befreit, so dass die schachtelweise mitgebrachten Kerzen mit einem kleinen Tropfen Wachs auf die Fliesen geklebt werden können. Das kann je nach religiösem Eifer / finanziellen Möglichkeiten bis zu einer Stunde dauern. In der Zwischenzeit stillen Mütter ihre Jüngsten, während die größeren Kinder Chips essen und mehr oder weniger ruhig warten. Brennen dann endlich alle Kerzen, gibt es die erste Runde Cola oder Posh (Zuckerrohrschnaps), und die Erwachsenen beten und singen in der archaischen Tzotzil-Sprache, was sich für uns sehr silbisch-abgehackt anhört.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">All over the floor, there are small groups of people sitting together, celebrating a ritual: First they clean an area from the pine needles so that they can stick their candles to the tiles with a little drop of wax. Depending on their religious ambition / financial possibilities that can take up to one hour. In the meantime, mothers breastfeed their littlest ones while the older children eat chips and wait more or less patiently. After lighting all the candles, they drink their first round of cola or posh (sugar cane liquor), and the adults pray and sing in their archaic Tzotzil language which for us sounds very clipped.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto aus dem Internet: Man sieht die rivalisierenden Colafabrikate und das Opferhuhn. / <span style="color: #cc0000;">Picture from the internet: You can see the competing coke brands and the sacrificial chicken.</span></td></tr>
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Bei manchen Gruppen kommt jetzt ein Curandero hinzu, also ein Heiler oder Shaman, der jegliche körperlichen oder psychischen Leiden, incl. den "Bösen Blick" diagnostizieren kann und die entsprechende Abhilfe verordnet. Je nachdem, wie ernst es um eine Person steht, handelt es sich bei diesen Heilmitteln um Opfergaben von Blütenblättern und Kerzen in bestimmten Farben und Größen, Federn und Eiern bis hin zu lebenden Hühnern. Nach einer weiteren Runde Cola bzw. Schnaps nimmt der Curandero die jeweilige Opfergabe, kreist sie mit ausgestreckten Armen über den Kerzen und streicht sie dann über den ganzen Körper seines Patienten. Das Ganze wiederholt sich einige Male, während der Rest der Familie leise betet. Am interessantesten ist es natürlich bei einem schwer kranken Menschen zuzuschauen, denn irgendwann zieht der Shaman dem Huhn den Hals lang und gibt es zurück an die älteste Frau in der Gruppe, die das arme Tier dann so lange kopfüber halten muss, bis es aufhört zu zappeln. Das tote Huhn kommt zurück in seine angestammte Plastiktüte und später zu Hause in den Kochtopf.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At this point, some of the groups are joined by a curandero, a healer / shaman, who can diagnose all kinds of physical and mental ailments, incl. the "evil eye" and prescribes a cure. Depending of how sick a person is, these remedies are sacrifices from flower petals and candles in particular colours and sizes, feathers and eggs to live chickens. After another round of cola and liquor respectively, the curandero takes the sacrificial offering, circles it over the candles with extended arms and then strokes over his patient's whole body with it. This repeats a couple of times while the rest of the family is praying quietly. Of course it's the most interesting to watch the ceremony with a very ill person, because at some point, the shaman pulls at the chicken's neck and gives it back to the oldest woman in the group, who then has to hold the dying animal with its head down until it stops wriggling. The dead chicken goes back into its plastic bag, and later at home into the cooking pot.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto aus dem Internet / <span style="color: #cc0000;">Picture from the internet</span></td></tr>
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Nichts scheint dieses Ritual zu stören: Ein sturzbetrunkener Mann kniet vor seinen Kerzen und seiner Flasche Posh, an der er immer wieder nippt, und schluchzt lauthals. Ein anderer telefoniert mal kurz. Neuankömmlinge begrüßen die Anwesenden mit Handschlag. Und dazwischen überall neugierige Touristen, die über aufgestellte Kerzen stolpern und so überhaupt keine Distanz zu den Gläubigen wahren. Für Kameras jedoch kennen die Tzotzil absolut keine Gnade. Deshalb hole ich mein Notizbuch heraus um meine Eindrücke festzuhalten, doch da kommt ein Mann herüber und sagt: "Lesen ist hier nicht gestattet", also packe ich mein Schreibzeug wieder ein. Erst da fällt mir auf, dass es in dieser Kirche keine Gesangbücher, keine geschriebenen Gebete oder Psalmen gibt. Lediglich die Namen der Heiligen stehen an deren Podesten. Was ebenfalls abgeht, ist ein Kreuz. Alle Christusfiguren sind quicklebendig und mit reich bestickten Mänteln bekleidet.</div>
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Schade, dass ich noch nicht richtig Spanisch kann, denn eine geführte Tour durch diese Kirche hätte uns noch sehr viel mehr Aufschluss über die seltsamen Gebräuche dieses Dorfes gegeben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Nothing seems to disturb this ritual: A completely hammered man is kneeling in front of his candles and his bottle of posh which he drinks from every couple of minutes, sobbing loudly. Another one has to do a quick phone call. Newcomers greet those present with a handshake. And in between, nosy tourists everywhere, tripping over candles and not giving the believers their space. Only when it comes to cameras, the Tzotzil have no mercy at all. That's why I take out my notebook to capture my impressions, but a man comes over and says: "Reading is not allowed here", so I put it away again. Only then I notice that there are no song books, no written prayers or psalms. Only the names of the saints are written on their rostrums. What's also missing is a cross. All the Jesus figures are very full of beans and dressed in richly embroidered coats.</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's too bad I don't understand much Spanish yet; a guided tour through the church would have provided much more insight into the strange manners and customs of this village.</span><br />
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Als ich ins Hostel zurückkomme, zitiert mich der Mann an der Rezeption zu sich: Unser Päckchen von Daves Mama ist da! Gut, dass wir noch den einen Tag geblieben sind...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When I return to the hostel, the man at the reception summons me to him: Our package from Dave's mom has arrived! Good thing we stayed another day after all...</span><br />
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Am Lagerfeuer wird heute über Campingausrüstung gefachsimpelt. Irgendwann bringt Dave eine unserer Matratzen daher und pumpt sie auf...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At the campfire tonight, we talk about outdoor gear. At some point, Dave gets one of our mattresses and pumps it up...</span><br />
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... damit Peter probeliegen kann!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... so that Peter can try it out!</span><br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 22. Februar:</u></b><br />
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Das Rennen geht weiter: Sowohl Peter als auch seine Maschine sind wieder fit - mal sehen, wo wir uns wieder über den Weg laufen ;-) Dave und ich machen uns nach einem langen Abschied von all unseren neuen Freunden auf den Weg Richtung Palenque, unserer letzten Station in Mexiko.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And the race continues: Both Peter and his bike are fit again - we'll see where we bump into each other again ;-) After a long parting with all our new friends, Dave and I start riding towards Palenque, our last destination in Mexico.</span><br />
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Das musste aber echt mal gesagt werden: Es ist verboten, tote Hunde wegzuwerfen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This really had to be said for a long time: It's prohibited to throw out dead dogs.</span><br />
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Die Landschaft nördlich von San Cristóbal de las Casas erinnert uns an Kalifornien: Nadelwald, dazwischen abgeerntete Felder und Viehweiden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The landscape north of San Cristóbal de las Casas reminds us of California: coniferous forest with empty fields and animals on pastures in between.</span><br />
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Wir finden ein ruhiges Plätzchen auf weichem Gras in einem lichten Kiefernwald - ein Glück, denn dank eines unangekündigten Generalstreiks meiner Verdauungsorgane mitten in der Nacht sind wir gezwungen, den ganzen Sonntag hier zu verbringen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We find a quiet spot on soft grass in a thin pine forest - that's lucky because due to an unannounced general strike of my digestive organs in the middle of the night, we are forced to hang out here all Sunday.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 37 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 13,21 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: in einem Waldstück an der Straße<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 24. Februar:</u></b><br />
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Typisches Dorf an der Straße, bestehend aus den üblichen 4 Hu: Hütten, Hunde, Hühner, Huzifagge.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Typical village along the road, consisting of more or less habitable huts, dogs, chickens and pigs.</span><br />
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Cascada El Corralito, der höchste Wasserfall, den wir in Mexiko gesehen haben. Von der Straße aus leider nur über eine steile Rampe zugänglich, deshalb verzichten wir auf eine nähere Bekanntschaft und fahren weiter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Cascada El Corralito, the highest waterfall we've seen in Mexico. Only accessible via a steep ramp from the road so we go without a closer look at it.</span><br />
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Beim Mittagessen in einem kleinen Imbiss an der Straße kommt es zu einer recht merkwürdigen Situation, die uns den Rest des Tages nicht mehr loslässt: Ein Auto hält an, der Fahrer kommt auf uns zu und fragt, ob er unsere Fahrräder fotografieren darf. Auf unser "por sopuesto que sí" hin macht er ein paar Bilder, unter anderem eine Nahaufnahme der Markennamen, und stellt allerhand Fragen zu den Fabrikaten (u. a. Preis). Nachdem er wieder weg ist, drückt uns der Imbissbesitzer einen Notizzettel in die Hand und gibt uns eindrücklich zu verstehen, dass wir niemandem erlauben sollten, uns oder unsere Räder zu fotografieren. "Der Kerl wird die Bilder ins Internet stellen, da gibt es organisierte Banden, die dann irgendwo auf euch warten und euch ausrauben. Hier, ich hab seine Autonummer aufgeschrieben, damit ihr ihn der Polizei melden könnt, falls euch was passiert. Viel Glück!"<br />
Zum ersten Mal auf dieser Tour sind wir nervös, als wir weiterfahren. Wir erreichen Ocosingo schneller als erwartet und beschließen, die Stadt lieber per Bus zu verlassen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">A very odd situation at a little restaurant keeps dogging us for the rest of the day: A car stops, the driver comes over and asks us if he can take pictures of our bikes. At our "por sopuesto que sí" he takes a few shots and a close-up of the brand names, and asks all sorts of questions about the makes (inter alia price). After the guy has taken off again, the owner of the restaurant slips a piece of paper in our hands and warns us to never allow anybody to take pictures of us or our bikes. "The guy will put the pictures online, there are organized gangs out there who will wait for you somewhere and rob you. Here, I wrote down his number plate so that you can report him to the police if something happens to you. Good luck!"</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">For the first time on this trip, we feel nervous when we continue on. We arrive in Ocosingo earlier than expected and decide to get out of here by bus.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 60 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 15,48 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Real Plaza in Ocosingo<br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 25. Februar:</u></b><br />
Auf der zweieinhalbstündigen Busfahrt von Ocosingo nach Palenque (hundert Kilometer) ändert sich die Landschaft vom trockenen Nadelwald zum feuchtheißen Dschungel, und die Straßenverhältnisse sind so schlimm, dass uns beiden schlecht wird. Das wäre mit dem Fahrrad nicht passiert...<br />
Palenque selbst hat als Stadt nicht besonders viel zu bieten, aber wir freuen uns total auf die Mayaruinen morgen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">During the two and a half hour busride from Ocosingo to Palenque (one hundred kilometres), the scenery changes from a dry coniferous forest to a hot and humid jungle, and the road conditions are so bad that both Dave and I get sick. Now that wouldn't have happened by bike...</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Palenque itself doesn't have much to offer but we're totally looking forward to the Mayan ruins tomorrow!</span><br />
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Ja, heiß und stickig ist es in Palenque. Hotelzimmer mit Fenster nach außen sind Mangelware, und dann muss man auch noch genau aufpassen, ob die Mückengitter dicht sind. Deckenventilatoren hingegen gehören zur Grundausstattung, ohne die würde man schnell ersticken. Wir schätzen, unserer ist ein ehemaliger Hubschrauberrotor, denn er verursacht einen regelrechten Wirbelsturm über unserem Bett, so dass wir mit zugedecktem Kopf schlafen müssen, weil uns ständig die Haare ins Gesicht geblasen werden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Yes, it's hot and sticky in Palenque. Hotel rooms with a window to the outside are rare, and then you have to check if the mosquito net is tight. Ceiling fans though are basic equipment, without them you'd suffocate quickly. We guess ours used to be a helicopter rotor, judging by the hurricane it creates above our bed. We have to sleep with our heads covered because our hair gets blown into our faces constantly.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 100 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 40 km/h (Bus!)<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Avenida in Palenque<br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 26. Februar:</u></b><br />
Beim Einkaufen sehen wir zwei schwer bepackte Fahrräder vorbeifahren und rennen schnell auf die Straße. Es sind Dave und Trace aus Australien, mit denen wir spontan zum Frühstücken gehen, bevor sie sich aufmachen Richtung Cancun und wir zu den Ruinen radeln.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">While we are shopping, two heavily loaded bicycles ride past the shop, so we quickly run out on the street. It's Dave and Trace from Australia whom we spontaneously go for breakfast with before they take off towards Cancun and we ride to the ruins.</span><br />
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Am Parkplatz wird man begrüßt von zig Händlern, Reiseleitern und Parkeinweisern, die lauthals ihre Dienste anpreisen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">All around the parking lot, dozens of vendors, tour guides and parking attendants greet us, yelling their respective services at us.</span><br />
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Tempel der Inschriften<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Temple of the Inscriptions</span><br />
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Grabstelle<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Tomb</span><br />
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Aquäduct<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Aqueduct </span><br />
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Sogar innerhalb des Parks liegen überall Decken mit Souvenirs zum Verkauf.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Even inside the park, vendors sell souvenirs all along the path.</span><br />
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Die Natur holt sich ihren Platz zurück.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Nature getting back its property.</span><br />
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Nicht nur die alte Mayastadt, sondern auch die Tiere, die sich hier tummeln, faszinieren uns.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Not only the ancient Mayan city but also the animals living here fascinate us.</span><br />
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Relief im Sonnentempel<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Relief in the Temple of the Sun</span><br />
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Ballsportplatz<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Ballgame park</span><br />
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Leguan, etwa 70 Zentimeter lang.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Iguana, about 70 centimetres long.</span><br />
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Präkoloniales Klo.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Precolonial toilet.</span><br />
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Aussichtsturm.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lookout tower.</span><br />
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Spinne, etwa so groß wie mein Handteller.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Spider, about as big as the palm of my hand.</span><br />
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Im Bundesstaat Chiapas werden neben dem Spanischen noch acht andere Sprachen gesprochen. Die archäologische Fundstätte Palenque liegt zwar im Sprachgebiet der Chol, aber Tseltal ist die Sprache, in der viele verschiedene ethnische Gruppen untereinander kommunizieren. Aus diesem Grund sind alle Informationstafeln auf Spanisch, Englisch und Tseltal.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the State of Chiapas, besides Spanish, eight languages are spoken. The archaeological site of Palenque lies in the area speaking Chol; however, Tseltal has become the language through which numerous inhabitants of the various ethnic groups communicate with each other. That's why all information signs are in Spanish, English and Tseltal.</span><br />
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Am Abend gabeln wir vor dem Hotel schon wieder einen Fahrradtouristen auf: Paul aus England, der auf einer Reise rund um die Weltkugel ist. Klar, dass es da viel zu erzählen gibt...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the evening, we pick up another bike tourer from the street: Paul from England who is travelling around the globe. Of course, there's plenty to talk about...</span><br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 28. Februar:</u></b><br />
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Heute wollten wir eigentlich über die Grenze nach Guatemala, darum stehen wir bereits um sechs Uhr auf. Als wir zur Sammeltaxizentrale kommen, buhlen um die zehn verschiedene Fahrer um unsere Gunst, und zwar laut und gleichzeitig (nur als ich den Fotoapparat zücke, verschwinden sie). Jeder redet den anderen schlecht ("der spinnt / der hat ja gar kein Fahrzeug / der fährt euch nur bis zur Abzweigung und nicht direkt bis zur Fähre / ...") und nennt uns einen anderen Preis. Nach mehrmaligem direktem Nachfragen stellt sich heraus, dass wir in jedem Fall eine unbestimmte Distanz (Nennungen von 1-16 Kilometer Strecke) per Fahrrad zurücklegen müssten und außerdem der nächste Bus mit Dachträger erst in zwei Stunden aufbricht. Aaaaaaah!<br />
Wir verlassen die chaotische Bande und gehen direkt zu einem Reiseveranstalter, der das Komplettpaket Bus zum Fluss - Fähre - Bus nach Flores anbietet. Start morgen früh um sechs Uhr, also müssen wir noch eine Nacht in Palenque bleiben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, we wanted to cross the border to Guatemala, so we get up at six o'clock. When we get to the collectivo station, around ten taxi drivers court our favour - loud and at the same time (only when I take out my camera they disappear). They are running each other down ("he's crazy / he doesn't have a vehicle / he only takes you to the turn-off and not to the ferry / ...") and tells us a different price. After several direct enquiries it turns out that either way, we'd have to ride a certain distance (they name anything from 1-16 kilometres) and above all, the next collectivo with a roof rack only leaves in two hours. Aaaaaah!</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We leave that crazy crew and go directly to a tour operator who offers the complete package bus to the river - ferry - bus to Flores. Starting tomorrow morning at six, so we have to stay in Palenque one more night.</span><br />
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Wir ziehen um ins Hostel im ruhigeren Stadtteil Cañada. Viele Gebäude hier zeigen die typische Maya- Fensterform.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We move to the hostel in the more tranquil part of town, Cañada. Many buildings here show the typical Mayan shape of the windows.</span><br />
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Morgen also soll es weitergehen: Nach genau 16 Wochen in Mexiko freuen wir uns auf Neu-Land!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">So tomorrow we will finally move on: After exactly 16 weeks in Mexico we're looking forward to entering unknown territory (for us)!</span><br />
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Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Palenque, Chiapas, Mexico17.510204 -91.98103989999998517.449637000000003 -92.061720899999983 17.570771 -91.900358899999986tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-73302634656402590582014-02-15T11:12:00.001-08:002014-02-15T23:53:19.600-08:00Oaxaca bis Tuxtla Gutiérrez<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Mittwoch, 29. Januar:</u></b></div>
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Gleich außerhalb von Oaxaca gibt's wieder was zum Staunen: Der "Baum von Tule" (el Árbol del Tule), eine Montezumazypresse mit 42 Metern Stammumfang, 14 Metern Stammdurchmesser und etwa 35 Metern Höhe ist der dickste Baum der Erde. Da erscheint die Kirche nebendran wie eine kleine Kapelle!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Just outside Oaxaca, there's something to marvel at again: The "Tule Tree" (el Árbol del Tule), a montezuma cypress with a trunk measuring 42 metres girth and 14 metres diameter and a height of about 35 metres. It's the thickest tree in the world, makes the church next to it look like a tiny chapel!</span><br />
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Fällt euch was auf?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Do you notice anything?</span><br />
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Und jetzt?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">How about now?</span><br />
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Unterwegs sehen wir heute viele Agavenfelder und Mezcaldestillerien sowie die riesige Coronabrauerei. Wir fahren weiter nach Mitla, wo es wieder eine architektonisch beeindruckende Kultstätte zu besichtigen gäbe. Doch der Ort ist sehr schlecht ausgeschildert und nervt uns irgendwie, drum kehren wir bald zurück zur Hauptstraße auf der Suche nach einem Platz zum Campen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Along the way, we see lots of agave fields and Mezcal distilleries today, as well as the giant Corona brewery. We ride to Mitla, where there's supposed to be another architecturally impressive place of ritual worship we could visit. But the village is very badly signposted and kind of annoying, so we turn around soon and go back to the Carretera looking for a place to camp.</span><br />
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<span id="goog_331359430"></span><span id="goog_331359431"></span>In einem Feld neben der Straße schlagen wir unser Zelt auf - zum ersten Mal seit fast acht Wochen campen Dave und ich mal wieder alleine. Also mal abgesehen von der Kuhherde um uns rum, die sich jedoch nicht für uns interessiert.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We pitch our tent in a field next to the road - it's the first time in nearly eight weeks that Dave and I camp by ourselves. Not counting the herd of cows around us who don't seem to be interested in us at all.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 51,3 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 14,2 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: in einem Feld an der Straße (Kuhfladen-Camp II.)<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 30. Januar:</u></b></div>
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Im Hostel in Oaxaca haben uns zwei Holländerinnen von einer weiteren einmaligen Sehenswürdigkeit erzählt, die den etwas holprigen Abstecher von der Hauptstraße auf jeden Fall wert ist: Hierve el Agua.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Two Dutch girls in the hostel in Oaxaca had told us about another one of a kind sight that is definitely worth the bumpy detour from the highway: Hierve el Agua.</span><br />
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Das warme Wasser, das hier aus vier Quellen sprudelt, enthält sehr viel kohlensauren Kalk und andere Mineralien, die nicht nur die Pools oben so schön türkis aussehen lassen...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The warm water that's bubbling out of four springs here is over-saturated with calcium carbonate and other minerals, which not only make the pools on top look so invitingly turquoise...</span><br />
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... sondern beim Ablaufen des Wassers über die Klippen hängenbleiben und diese "versteinerten Wasserfälle" bilden, ähnlich wie Stalaktiten in Höhlen. Wir lernen Mike aus China und Sami aus Spanien kennen, die uns von einer geführten Wanderung zur größeren der beiden Felsformationen erzählen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... but also remain behind when the water slowly trickles down the cliffs, building these "petrified waterfalls" - similar to stalactites in caves. We get to know Mike from China and Sami from Spain who tell us about a guided walk down to the bigger one of the two rock formations.</span><br />
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Hier stehen wir oben auf der "Cascada grande", wo das Wasser aus zwei kleinen Quellen kommt und diese Pfützen bildet, bevor es langsam über die Klippe läuft.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Here we are standing on top of the "Cascada grande" where the water is coming out of two little springs, forming these puddles before trickling over the edge slowly.</span><br />
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Beim Abstieg zum unteren Ende des Wasserfalls muss unser betagter Wanderführer ständig auf uns junge Hupfer warten. Spätestens an dieser engen und steilen Stelle, wo ein windiger Draht als Geländer dient, wird klar, dass uns der Greis mit seinem Gehstock locker abhängen könnte, doch leider haben wir unsere Wanderschuhe bei unseren Fahrrädern gelassen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">During our hike down to the bottom of the waterfall, our "advanced in years" guide constantly finds himself waiting for us young guys. Especially at this narrow and steep spot, where only a dodgy wire serves as a railing, we realize that the old man with his walking cane could easily leave us in the dust, but unfortunately our hiking boots are with our bikes!</span><br />
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Aussicht auf halber Höhe.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View from half the height.</span><br />
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Sami und ich am Fuße der Felsformation.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sami and I at the bottom of the "waterfall".</span><br />
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Trinken würde ich das Wasser vielleicht nicht unbedingt, aber eine kleine Dusche tut an so einem heißen Tag gut!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">I wouldn't necessarily drink the water but a quick shower is a real treat on such a hot day! </span><br />
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Riesige Ameisen gibt es hier, mit extrem großen Köpfen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There are huge ants around here, with extremely big heads.</span><br />
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Nach der Wanderung springen wir gleich nochmal in den Pool. Jetzt am späten Nachmittag ist es hier fast menschenleer und wir genießen die Ruhe und die grandiose Aussicht auf das Tal direkt hinter uns.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After the hike, we jump into the pool again. Now in the late afternoon, there are hardly any people around and we enjoy the quiet and the stunning views of the valley right behind us.</span><br />
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Unsere Fahrräder hatten wir in der Zwischenzeit still und heimlich in einer leerstehenden Ferienwohnung geparkt, in der offensichtlich schon länger niemand mehr war. Als wir zurückkommen, ist gerade ein Mann beim Putzen drin, der uns darauf hinweist, dass die Übernachtung hier 300 Pesos kostet. Dave: Nein, nein, wir bleiben nicht über Nacht. Wir brauchen nicht lang, in einer Stunde sind wir weg. Mann: Ach so, ihr wollt das Appartement nur für eine Stunde?<br />
Wird echt Zeit für einen Spanischkurs...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the meantime, we had parked our bikes secretly in an empty holiday apartment which apparently hadn't been looked after for a while. When we come back, there's a man cleaning in there, telling us that it's 300 Pesos per night to stay here. Dave: No no, we don't stay for the night. It won't take us long, we're out of here in one hour. Man: Oh, so you only want the apartment for one hour?</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's definitely time for a Spanish course...</span><br />
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Zurück im Dorf San Lorenzo Albarradas zelten wir neben der Kirche.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Back in the village of San Lorenzo Albarradas, we camp next to the church.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 26,44 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 9,43 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: neben der Kirche in San Lorenzo Albarradas (Kirchen-Camp II.)<br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 31. Januar:</u></b><br />
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Beim Packen am Morgen schauen uns die Männer des Dorfes fasziniert zu und stellen jede Menge Fragen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The men of the village watch us in amazement while Dave and I pack up in the morning, and they ask all sorts of questions.</span><br />
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Es folgt die anstrengende, aber schöne Fahrt durch die Sierra Madre de Oaxaca. Alle paar Kilometer ein Dorf mit kleinen Geschäften, ansonsten nur wir und die Berge. Und der erste Wasserfall, den wir in Mexiko sehen! Die Straße ist geteert, aber gut aufpassen muss man trotzdem, dass man nicht in die teilweise recht beachtlichen Schlaglöcher fällt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">What follows is a strenuous but beautiful ride through the Sierra Madre de Oaxaca. Every few kilometres, there's a village with small shops; other than that it's only us and the mountains. And the first waterfall we see in Mexico! The road is paved but you still have to be very careful not to fall into one of the respectable potholes.</span><br />
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In San Pedro y San Pablo Ayutla ist Patrozinium, dadurch ist das Chaos in der Stadt noch größer als üblich: Kinderkarussels und Marktbuden mitten auf der Straße, wilde Verkehrsmanöver, Menschen und der damit verbundene Lärm.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's the weekend of the patrocinium in San Pablo y San Pedro Ayutla, so the chaos in the town is even bigger than usual: merry-go-rounds and food vendors in the middle of the street, wild traffic manoeuvres, people and the noise that comes with it.</span><br />
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Das indigene Volk der Mixe (sprich "Miche") hat seine eigene Sprache, die in dieser Gegend um die hunderttausend Leute sprechen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The indigenous people of the Mixe (say "Mihe") has its own language which is spoken by around one hundred thousand people in this area.</span><br />
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Wir schauen fünf Hotels an, bevor wir uns schließlich mit dem besten und teuersten der Stadt zufrieden geben. Über den Preis von 180 Pesos (10 Euro) wollen wir uns sicherlich nicht beschweren, aber wir müssen die Fahrräder über diese enge Treppe, die überflüssigerweise noch mit Blumentöpfen vollgestellt ist, auf unser Zimmer tragen. Klo und Dusche sind auf dem Gang, warmes Wasser gibt es nur begrenzt. In der Früh stellen wir fest, dass die Deckenfarbe bröselt und auf unser ganzes Zeug verteilt ist.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We look at five hotels before finally settling for the best and most expensive one in town. Not that we complain about the price of 180 pesos (15 CAD), but first we have to haul our gear up that narrow staircase which is crammed with flower pots. Toilet and shower are in the hallway, warm water is limited. In the morning we notice that the ceiling paint is flaky and spread all over our stuff.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 47,24 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 10,04 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel El Mirab in Ayutla<br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 1. Februar:</u></b><br />
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Und schon wieder ein Wasserfall! Der Tag beginnt wunderschön mit Aussichten wie diesen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And another waterfall! The day begins really nice with views like this.</span><br />
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Möbeltransporter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Furniture transport.</span><br />
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Nach nur dreizehn Kilometern bleiben wir an einem Berg mit 14% Steigung hängen. Doch schon das erste Auto, das wir anhalten, nimmt uns bereitwillig mit über die gröbsten Hügel drüber auf über 2500 Höhenmeter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After only thirteen kilometres, we are stuck on a hill with 14% ascend. But already the first car we flag down readily takes us over the craziest hills and up to 2500 metres altitude.</span><br />
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Danach geht es weiterhin lustig auf und ab, zwischen 2700 und 1900 Meter ist alles dabei. Wir sehen viele kleine Wasserfälle und Rinnsale an der Straße entlang, und während unserer vielen Verschnaufpausen genießen wir das Bergpanorama. Bei der Abfahrt nach Totontepec müssen wir oft sogar stehenbleiben um die Bremsen zu kühlen, so steil ist es!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Afterwards, we keep climbing and descending between 2700 and 1900 metres altitude. We see many little waterfalls and creeks along the road, and during our many breaks we enjoy the mountain panorama. Rolling down into Totontepec, we even have to stop a few times to cool down our brakes, that's how steep it is!</span><br />
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In Totontepec angekommen, sind wir leider viel zu erschöpft und grantig, um diese liebenswerte Stadt richtig zu genießen. Die Menschen hier überbieten an Freundlichkeit und Hilfsbereitschaft alles, was wir auf dieser Tour bisher erlebt haben, bieten uns sogar ein Bett im Gemeindehaus an. Doch wir wollen einfach nur unsere Ruhe und verziehen uns ins Hotel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When we arrive in Totontepec, unfortunately we are way too exhausted and grumpy to relish this lovely town. The locals outshine everything we've encountered so far in friendliness and helpfulness, even offer us a bed in the community centre. But we just want to be by ourselves and disappear into the hotel.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 36 km (plus 16 km per Anhalter)<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 11,58 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel in Totontepec<br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 2. Februar:</u></b><br />
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Sonntagmorgen sechs Uhr in Totontepec. Zeit, um per Lautsprecher die ganze Ortschaft mit frommen Gesängen des Kirchenchores zu beschallen. Die Gockel krähen eifrig mit, und zwar ALLE. Oropax sei Dank schlafen wir schließlich weiter, bis die Hotelbesitzerin plötzlich im Zimmer steht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sunday morning six o'clock in Totontepec. Time to sonicate the whole area with religious songs of the church choir via loudspeakers. The roosters join into that crowing - ALL of them. Thanks to our earplugs we finally fall back asleep until suddenly the hotel owner stands in our room.</span><br />
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Blick von der Straße hinunter auf ein Hausdach, auf dem Maiskolben in der Sonne trocknen. Am Morgen sieht man die Frauen immer einen Kübel voller Maiskörner zur Mühle tragen, damit sie frisch gemahlenes Maismehl für ihre täglichen Tortillas haben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View from the road down to the roof of a house, where there are corncobs drying in the sun. In the mornings, you can see women carrying buckets full of corn to the mill so that they have freshly ground cornflour for their daily tortillas.</span><br />
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Wir fahren / schieben noch keine zwei Kilometer, als uns zwei Männer aufhalten und zu unserer Tour befragen. Besonders interessiert sie dabei mein Campingkocher, den ich ihnen vorführe. Irgendwann meint der ältere der beiden: Ich hab geschäftlich in Chinantequilla zu tun, soll ich euch mitnehmen?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We haven't ridden / pushed two kilometres yet when two men stop us and question us about our tour. They are particularly interested in my camp stove which I show them. At some point, the older one of them goes: I have work to do in Chinantequilla, do you want a ride there?</span><br />
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Wie üblich in Mexiko, stehen wir Passagiere hinten auf der Ladefläche.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As customary in Mexico, we passengers stand on the back of the truck.</span><br />
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An einem Berg wird es dem Fahrzeug zu schwer, wir müssen aussteigen und schieben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">One of the hills is just too steep for the vehicle so we have to get off and push.</span><br />
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Kurzer Fotostop am höchsten Punkt der Strecke mit tollem Blick auf die Serpentinen vor uns.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Short picture stop at the top of the way with great views over the switchbacks in front of us.</span><br />
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Nachdem wir uns verabschiedet haben, rollen Dave und ich hinunter nach Comaltepec, bevor es auf der anderen Seite des Flusses stramm bergauf geht Richtung Choapam.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After saying good-bye, Dave and I roll down to Comaltepec before briskly climbing back up again on the other side of the river towards Choapam.</span><br />
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Sommerblumen ranken in die Straße.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Summer flowers growing into the road.</span><br />
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Der Straßenzustand wird jetzt immer schlechter, weil Erdrutsche teilweise alles zugeschüttet haben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The road conditions are getting worse now because numerous landslides cover one or both lanes.</span><br />
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Etwa neun Kilometer vor Choapam ist das Ende der Ausbaustrecke, es geht auf einem Feldweg weiter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">About nine kilometres before Choapam the paved road finally turns into a gravel path.</span><br />
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So schnell können wir unser Zelt gar nicht aufbauen, dass uns die Mücken nicht erwischen: Daves Beine, nachdem ich die meisten seiner Stiche mit Schwedenbitter behandelt habe.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We cannot pitch our tent fast enough to escape the mosquitoes: Dave's legs after I treated most of his bites with Swedish herbs.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 16,28 km (plus 17 km per Anhalter)<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 10,9 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: neben der Straße<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 3. Februar:</u></b><br />
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Am Morgen regnet es leicht, drum warten wir erstmal ab, denn auf eine Schlammpiste haben wir keinen Bock.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the morning it's raining slightly, so we wait because we don't fancy riding on a mud track at all.</span><br />
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Auch in trockenem Zustand ist die "Straße" eine Herausforderung: Die <u>durchschnittliche</u> Steigung heute ist 7,5% - die meiste Zeit schieben wir. Und wir beginnen zu verstehen, warum Esel hier so ein beliebtes Verkehrsmittel sind.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Even when it's dry, this "road" is quite the challenge: The <u>average</u> grade today is 7.5% - most of the time we push the bikes. And we begin to understand why donkeys are such popular vehicles here.</span><br />
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Zwischenstop an einem Wasserfall.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Short stop at a waterfall.</span><br />
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Zwanzig Meter schieben...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Pushing for twenty metres...</span><br />
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... und wieder Pause. So geht das.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and another break. That's how we do this.</span><br />
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Der Ort Choapam empfängt uns sehr freundlich. Wir dürfen auf dem überdachten Gang zwischen Polizeiwache und Gemeindeverwaltung campen, direkt neben dem Basketballfeld, auf dem es bis 22 Uhr rundgeht. Solche Ortszentren haben wir hier in den Bergen jetzt schon öfter gesehen. Sie scheinen bei Jung und Alt sehr beliebt zu sein und für die Dorfgemeinschaft einen lebendigen Treffpunkt zu bilden.<br />
Für uns bedeutet das, dass wir in aller Öffentlichkeit mit dem schwachen W-Lan der Gemeindeverwaltung kämpfen, unser Gepäck verladen, Carcassonne spielen, kochen, fotografieren... Hundert neugierige Gesichter verfolgen jeden unserer Schritte, aber noch wagt es niemand uns anzusprechen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The little town of Choapam welcomes us very warmly. We can camp in a covered hallway between the police station and the administration, directly next to a basketball field where the kids are playing until 10 pm. We've seen a few community centres like that in the mountains. They seem to be very popular with old and young locals alike, and play an important role for the community spirit as everybody gets together here.</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">For us that means that we are in public when we struggle with the weak WiFi from the town administration, carry our gear around, play Carcassonne, cook, take pictures... A hundred or so curious faces follow every one of our steps, but so far nobody dares to talk to us.</span><br />
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Erst als ich in den Pausenhof der Grundschule gehe, wo ich eine Gruppe Kinder anspreche, die mit ihrer Musiklehrerin einen Militärmarsch übt, bricht das Eis. Zuerst müssen sie mir natürlich ein Ständchen spielen, danach haben sie tausend Fragen zu unserer Fahrradtour und schließlich auch zu meinen Haaren. Ob die echt sind.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Only when I walk over to the schoolyard and start talking to a group of children who are practising a military march with their music teacher, the ice breaks. First of all, they want to serenade me, then they have to know everything about our trip and finally, one asks if my hair is real.</span><br />
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Eines der Mädchen zeigt mir anschließend noch die Kirche.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">One of the girls offers to show me the church.</span><br />
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Ein Falter an der Mauer neben unserem Zelt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Some kind of moth on the wall next to our tent.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 9,24 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 5,8 km/h<br />
Neue niedrigste Höchstgeschwindigkeit: 16,63 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Gemeindezentrum in Choapam<br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 4. Februar:</u></b><br />
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Die Nachricht von den komischen Leuten, die Fahrräder statt Esel und ein Zelt statt ein Haus haben, muss sich über Nacht rumgesprochen haben wie ein Lauffeuer, denn beim Frühstück sind wir umringt von mindestens zwanzig Schulkindern, die an uns ihr Englisch ausprobieren wollen. Und als ich später für die nächsten paar Tage einkaufe, beobachten mich die Dorffrauen belustigt.<br />
Ich stelle mir das so ähnlich vor wie wenn in Großwimpasing eines Tages unangemeldet eine Gruppe Indianer in voller Montur daherreitet, neben dem Weiher ihr Tipi aufbaut und ums Lagerfeuer tanzt. Da würden wir auch Augen machen, oder?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The news of the weirdos who have bicycles instead of donkeys and a tent instead of a house must have spread like wildfire, because there are at least twenty school children crowded around us who want to try out their English skills on us. And when I buy food for the next couple of days, the women of the village watch me in amusement.</span><br />
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Auf der Weiterfahrt blickt man noch lange zurück auf Choapam.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As we continue on, we can still see Choapam for a long time.</span><br />
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Oder aber voraus auf die Serpentinen unter uns.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Switchbacks in front of us.</span><br />
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Zwölf Leute sitzen in diesem Wagen. Sie sind auf dem 12-stündigen Weg nach Mexiko City und können es nicht fassen, dass wir uns so eine Radtour antun. Ich weiß nicht, ob ich tauschen würde...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There are twelve people sitting in this truck. They are on a 12-hour journey to Mexico City and cannot fathom why we would do this kind of trip to ourselves. I'm not sure if I would swap though...</span><br />
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Kurze Rast am bisher schönsten Wasserfall Mexikos. Man könnte sogar baden hier, doch wir belassen es bei nassen T-Shirts. Das tut gut in dieser Hitze!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Short rest at the nicest Mexican waterfall so far. You could even swim here but we leave it at wet T-shirts. That feels good in this heat!</span><br />
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Der Straßenzustand ist nach wie vor abenteuerlich; an den Nordhängen müssen wir teilweise sogar durch den Matsch schieben. Aber die Ruhe und die Natur machen die Mühe wett.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The road conditions are still adventurous; on the northern slopes we even have to push through the mud. But the quiet and the nature make up for the hard work.</span><br />
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Später machen wir noch zwei unfreiwillige Pausen: Zuerst an einer unbeschilderten Weggabelung, wo wir eine halbe Stunde warten müssen, bis jemand kommt, den wir fragen können. Und kurz darauf hat Dave seinen ersten Platten am Fahrrad.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Later, we are forced to take two breaks: First we get to a fork in the road where we have to wait for half an hour for somebody to ask for directions. And shortly afterwards, Dave has his first flat tire on his bike.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 18,32 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 6,85 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: in einer Parkbucht an der Straße<br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 5. Februar:</u></b><br />
Am Morgen tröpfelt es leicht, darum schlafen wir aus und spielen Carcassonne. Später ist es trocken genug um weiterzufahren, also fangen wir an zu packen. Da hält ein leerer Viehtransporter an und fragt, ob er uns ein Stück mitnehmen soll.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's raining slightly in the morning, so we sleep in and play Carcassonne. When it is dry enough to ride we start packing up. But then an empty cattle transporter stops and offers to take us to the next town.</span><br />
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Für die knapp 30 Kilometer nach Jalahui braucht man motorisiert volle zwei Stunden. Das ist gut zu wissen, denn somit gilt unsere Faustregel 1Stunde per Auto = 1Tag per Fahrrad auch in diesem Terrain. Ab Jalahui fahren wir selber weiter; die Straße ist jetzt etwas besser, flacher und neuer.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It takes the truck two hours to drive the 30 kilometres to Jalahui. That's good to know because it tells us that our rule of thumb, 1 hour by car = 1 day by bike even applies to this terrain. After Jalahui, we continue riding again; the road becomes a little bit better, flatter and newer.</span><br />
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In San Juan del Rio angekommen, baden wir zuallererst im Fluss - zusammen mit den hiesigen Frauen und Männern, die sich rund um uns ausziehen und von Kopf bis Fuß waschen. Mit sanitären Anlagen rechnen wir also fortan nicht mehr...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When we arrive in San Juan del Rio, we first bathe in the river - together with local women and men who take off their clothes all around us and wash themselves head to toe. After seeing this, we don't count on finding sanitary facilities here anymore...</span><br />
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Wieder dürfen wir auf dem überdachten Gang eines Verwaltungsgebäudes im Ortszentrum zelten, wo sich das Dorfleben abspielt: Tacostand, Basketballplatz, Männer mit Gitarren und Bier, Kinder mit Fahrrädern.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We get to camp on the covered hallway of the administrative building in the community centre, where the whole village comes together in the evening: taco stand, basketball court, men with guitars and beer, children with their bikes.</span><br />
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Bürokratie hält auch in Mexiko Einzug. Welche Unterlagen und Voraussetzungen man für eine Heirat oder Ausbildung mitzubringen hat, steht auf diesen Aushängen an der Tür zum Einwohnermeldeamt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Bureaucracy in Mexico. These notices at the residents' registration office list the requirements and documents one has to produce in order to get married or apply for an apprenticeship.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 8 km (plus 30 km per Anhalter)<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 7,45 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Gemeindezentrum in San Juan del Rio<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 6. Februar:</u></b><br />
Heute stehen wir beide mit dem verkehrten Fuß auf. Es gibt tatsächlich im ganzen Ort kein Klo, so dass ich letztendlich zurück hinunter zum Fluss gehe... Toll. Beim Frühstück granteln wir so vor uns hin, und hundert Meter hinter dem Ortsschild bricht Daves Hinternabe endgültig. Zurückschieben und dem halben Dorf unsere Situation erklären wollen wir nicht, deshalb setzen wir uns an den Straßenrand und warten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, we both wake up on the wrong side of the bed. Turns out there really is no toilet in the entire village, so that I end up going back down to the river... Awesome. During breakfast, we grumble away at each other, and just a hundred metres down the road Dave's back hub finally breaks. As we don't fancy pushing back and explaining our situation to all the people, we sit down in the ditch and wait.</span><br />
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Zuerst hält ein Motorradfahrer an, der uns zwar nicht mitnehmen kann, aber eine Portion Empanadas schenkt. Zwei Stunden später halten wir einen Transporter auf, der bereitwillig seine Ladung umverteilt, um unsere Fahrräder unterzubringen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">First a motorcycle stops. He cannot take us of course, but he hands us a plate of Empanadas. Two hours later, we flag down a delivery truck, and the drivers readily shift their load so that our bikes fit on the truck.</span><br />
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Er nimmt uns mit ins nächste Dorf, wo zufällig gerade der Linienbus anhält.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">They take us to the next village, where a bus happens to stop right this minute.</span><br />
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Da geht alles sehr schnell: Zeug umladen in den Bus und weiter geht's in die nächste größere Stadt, Playa Vicente, wo wir uns ein Hotelzimmer mit Dusche genehmigen wollen und Dave sein Rad richten kann.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Everything happens very quickly then: We heave our gear onto the bus and are on our way into the next bigger town, Playa Vicente, where we want to take a hotel room so that Dave can fix his bike.</span><br />
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Fast neun Stunden braucht er, um das Hinterrad komplett auseinanderzunehmen, zu putzen und mit der neuen Hinternabe wieder zusammenzubauen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It takes him almost nine hours to take the whole back wheel apart, clean it and build it back together with the new hub.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 100 Meter (plus 48 km per Anhalter und per Bus)<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Ros Bal in Playa Vicente<br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 7. Februar:</u></b><br />
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Vom Baulärm und einigen anderen besonderen Merkmalen des Hotels genervt, ziehen wir um ins wesentlich schönere Hotel Imperio. Wichtig: Auch hier können wir mit dem Fahrrad direkt in die Dusche fahren, denn nach unserer staubigen Bergetappe haben nicht nur wir selber eine Grundreinigung nötig!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Annoyed by construction noises and other special characteristics of the hotel, we move into the much nicer Hotel Imperio. Important: We can ride our bikes directly into the shower, because after our dusty mountain excursion, it's not only us who are in desperate need of a thorough wash!</span><br />
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Kochen im Hotelzimmer. Ich hör dich schon schimpfen, Babsi!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Cooking in the hotel room.</span><br />
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Wir bleiben drei Tage in Playa Vicente, ohne besondere Höhepunkte. Touristisch hat diese Ecke Mexikos rein überhaupt nichts vorzuweisen; man kann noch nicht einmal behaupten, die Menschen hier bemühen sich einen guten Eindruck zu machen. So verbringen Dave und ich viel Zeit damit zu überlegen, wo und wie es weitergehen soll.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We stay in Playa Vicente for three days, without any highlights. This corner of Mexico has nothing at all to offer for tourists; we cannot even say that the locals try to make a good impression. Dave and I spend a lot of time thinking about where and how we want to continue.</span><br />
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<b><u>Montag, 10. Februar:</u></b><br />
Unsere Fahrräder fühlen sich an wie neu, nachdem Dave sie gründlichst geputzt und generalüberholt hat. Außerdem haben wir mal wieder eine geteerte Straße, und einigermaßen flach ist sie auch noch. Ich kann es gar nicht fassen, als ich zum ersten Mal seit zehn Tagen in den höchsten Gang schalte!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our bicycles feel like brand new after Dave has cleaned and overhauled them thoroughly. On top of that, we finally get to ride on a paved road again, without any steep parts. I cannot believe it when I shift into my hardest gear for the first time after ten days!</span><br />
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Die Stadt Isla ist genauso hässlich wie Playa Vicente. Hinter Isla sehen wir plötzlich rundherum nichts als Ananasplantagen. Wir hatten beide keine Ahnung, an welchen Pflanzen die Dinger wachsen, drum schauen wir jetzt einmal genauer hin.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Isla is just as ugly as Playa Vicente. After Isla, we find ourselves surrounded by pineapple plantations. Both of us had no idea what kind of plants pineapples grow on, so now we take a closer look.</span><br />
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Und weil es sich gerade anbietet, schlagen wir unser Camp in einem der Felder auf.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And since it's suggesting itself as a campspot we pitch our tent in one of the fields.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 58,64 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,29 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: in einem Feld an der Straße (Ananas-Camp I.)<br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 11. Februar:</u></b><br />
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An einer Tankstelle frage ich einen Bauern, ob ich ein Foto von seiner erntefrischen Ladung machen darf, da schenkt er mir drei Ananas.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In a petrol station, I ask a farmer if I can take a picture of his harvest, and he gives me three pineapples.</span><br />
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Eine davon wird sofort mit der Machete (steckt immer griffbereit im Gürtel) aufgeschnitten und probiert. Mmmh!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">He cuts one of them open with his Machete (always at hand) right away for us to try. Mmmh!</span><br />
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Die Campingplatzsuche gestaltet sich in dieser intensiv landwirtschaftlich genutzten Gegend heute sehr schwierig, denn überall sind Zäune. Letztendlich müssen wir uns mit einer Parkbucht an der Straße zufrieden geben, in der wir erst den Müll und Klopapier zur Seite räumen müssen, bevor wir das Zelt aufstellen können.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today's search for a campspot is quite difficult, because in this agricultural area everything is fenced off. In the end, we have to take a roadside turnout where we have to clear away some garbage and toilet paper before we can set up our tent.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 50 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 15,9 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Parkbucht an der Straße (Shit-Camp I. Hoffentlich bleibt's dabei.)<br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 12. Februar:</u></b><br />
Heute erreichen Dave und ich unseren Tiefpunkt, und zwar leider nicht nur geographisch. Auf dem Weg zum Golf von Mexiko geht es zunächst flott dahin, weil wir uns auf die Mautautobahn mogeln, aber was wir unterwegs zu sehen, zu hören und zu riechen bekommen, geht uns echt an die Nieren: Berge von Müll und Dreck säumen die Straße, stinkende Wasserlöcher, hässliche Ortschaften mit ihrem Lärm, aggressiver Verkehr, tote Tiere, brennende Böschungen. Ab Minatitlán kämpfen wir dann auch noch gegen den Sturm und der Seitenstreifen löst sich in lockeren Kies und Sand auf, so dass ich stürze. Lauthals schimpfend schieben wir die restlichen drei Kilometer nach Coatzacoalcos, in der Hoffnung auf eine schöne Küstenstadt. Pustekuchen. Bedingt durch seine äußerst verkehrsgünstige Lage am Isthmus von Tehuantepec (dünnste Stelle von Mexiko, Grenze zwischen Nord- und Mittelamerika) wirkt die Hafenstadt Coatzacoalcos mit ihren riesigen petrochemischen Industrieanlagen, den unzähligen Öltanklastwägen und den schäbigen Stundenhotels alles andere als wohltuend. Wir verschanzen uns in unserem Hotelzimmer mit Meerblick (der Sturm hält uns davon ab, zum Strand zu gehen) und beschließen, morgen mit dem Bus abzuhauen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, Dave and I reach our lowest point, and unfortunately that's not only geographical. On our way to the Gulf of Mexico, we first make really good progress because we sneak onto the toll highway, but what we have to see, hear and smell there gets to us: piles of garbage and dirt all along the road, stinking water holes, ugly towns with their noise, aggressive traffic, dead animals, fires in the embankment. After Minatitlán, we also struggle with an oncoming storm and the shoulder dissolves itself into loose gravel and sand, so that I fall off the bike. Cursing and swearing, we walk our bikes the remaining three kilometres to Coatzacoalcos, hoping for a nice coastal town. Not a chance! Due to its convenient location at the Isthmus of Tehuantepec (thinnest part of Mexico; geographical border between North- and Central America), the port town of Coatzacoalcos is buzzing with traffic, and its petrochemical industrial plants, countless oil tankers and sleazy hotels don't make us feel very welcome. We take refuge in our hotel room looking out on the ocean (the storm keeps us from going down to the beach) and decide to get out of here by bus tomorrow.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 83,44 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,08 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Terraza del Sol in Coatzacoalcos<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 13. Februar:</u></b><br />
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Strand von Coatzacoalcos. Wieder nichts als Müll.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Beach in Coatzacoalcos. Nothing but garbage once again.</span><br />
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Am Nachmittag laden wir unser Zeug in einen Reisebus und hoffen, wieder in einer schöneren Gegend zu landen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the afternoon, we load our gear into a coach and hope to end up in a nicer area again!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 245 km (Bus)<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel La Hacienda in Tuxtla Gutiérrez<br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 14. Februar:</u></b><br />
Es ist schon fast unheimlich, wie sehr sich die einzelnen Bundesstaaten Mexikos unterscheiden: Oaxaca war wunderschön, fröhlich und sauber. Veracruz hat uns nur schockiert und enttäuscht. Und Chiapas empfängt uns wieder sehr freundlich, gepflegt und weltoffen. Sofort fühlen wir uns besser!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's incredible how different the Mexican states are from one another: Oaxaca was beautiful, cheerful and clean. Veracruz has only shocked and disappointed us. And Chiapas welcomes us friendly, well-kept and cosmopolitan again. We feel better right away!</span><br />
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Am heutigen Valentinstag genehmigen wir uns ein Frühstück bei Starbucks. Jaha, sowas gibt's hier!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On the occasion of Valentine's day, we treat ourselves to a breakfast at Starbucks. Yes, they've got one here!</span><br />
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Nachdem wir ins Hostel umgezogen sind, schlendern wir durch die Stadt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After moving into the hostel, we explore the city of Tuxtla Gutiérrez.</span><br />
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Mittagessen bei Burger King. Wir brauchen einfach mal wieder was "Richtiges", ohne Tortillas. Ach, und dann spielen sie hier auch noch Pink Floyd, Bon Jovi und Neil Young. Wir sitzen über eine Stunde da und genießen das Ambiente. So weit sind wir.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lunch break in Burger King. We just need something "real", without tortillas. Oh yes, and they play Pink Floyd, Bon Jovi and Neil Young. After eating, we sit for over one hour simply enjoying the ambience. That's how far we've come.</span><br />
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Heimwehmedizin á la Burger King.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Homesickness cure made by Burger King.</span><br />
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Danach tauchen wir wieder ein in das bunte Straßenleben Mexikos, wo eine Hälfte der Straße durch alle möglichen Händler blockiert wird, was dem eh schon chaotischen Verkehr noch die Krone aufsetzt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Afterwards, we immerse ourselves into the crazy street life of Mexico again, where one half of the road is blocked by all sorts of vendors which crowns the already chaotic traffic.</span><br />
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Kleinere Kreuzungen sind weder durch Ampeln noch durch Schilder geregelt, es scheint eine Art Reißverschlusssystem zu gelten - einer von links, einer von rechts, einer von links usw. Fußgänger, Mopeds und Taxis jedoch fühlen sich darüber erhaben und machen das Ganze erst so richtig interessant.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Small crossroads aren't regulated by traffic lights or signs, the right of way seems to alternate between the two intersecting roads. Pedestrians, mopeds and taxis though feel they are above that principle and make the whole thing very interesting to watch.</span><br />
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Schade, dass ich die Gemüsehändlerin nicht fotografieren konnte, als sie mitten zwischen ihrer Ware sitzend ihr Kind gewickelt hat.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Too bad I didn't catch the vegetable vendor with my camera when she was changing her baby's diaper sitting in the middle of her produce.</span><br />
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Früh übt sich: Kleiner Bub verkauft Zigaretten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Early learning: Small boy selling cigarettes.</span><br />
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Festlich dekorierter Blumenladen anlässlich zum Valentinstag.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Festive decoration in a flower shop for Valentine's day.</span><br />
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Junger Schuhputzer bei der Arbeit.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Young shoe cleaner at work.</span><br />
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Tuxtla Gutiérrez ist die Hauptstadt der Marimbaspieler, und jeden Abend findet hier im Marimbapark ein Konzert statt. Heute ist es besonders feierlich, und bei Einbruch der Dunkelheit ist der ganze Platz voller Leute.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Tuxtla Gutiérrez is the capital of the marimba players, and every evening there's a concert in the marimba park. Today it's particularly festive, and when it gets dark the whole plaza is full of people.</span><br />
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Dave und ich ergattern einen Sitzplatz und genießen stundenlang die Musik, beobachten die geschätzten über hundert tanzenden Paare und freuen uns, hier zu sein. Es tut so gut, endlich wieder fröhliche Menschen um sich zu haben!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I get hold of a bench and enjoy the music for hours, watching the estimated two hundred people dancing and being glad to be here. It feels so good to be surrounded by happy people again!</span></div>
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Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Tuxtla Gutiérrez, Chiapas, Mexico16.747309 -93.10982516.625667 -93.2711865 16.868951000000003 -92.9484635tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-73232776073970792902014-01-28T19:39:00.001-08:002014-01-28T19:57:10.311-08:00Oaxaca<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Mittwoch, 22. Januar (Daves Geburtstag):</u></b><br />
Um 6.30 Uhr in der Früh erreichen wir per Bus Oaxaca, um halb acht sind wir in einem netten Hotel und holen erst mal Schlaf nach.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We arrive Oaxaca per bus at 6.30 in the morning, at half past seven we're in a nice hotel finally getting some sleep.</span></div>
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Am Nachmittag machen wir uns dann daran, die Stadt zu erkunden. Und verlieben uns sofort!! Rund um unser Hotel sind mindestens sechs Musikgeschäfte, so fängt unser Aufenthalt hier schon mal gut an.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the afternoon, we explore the city and fall in love right away!! All around our hotel, there are at least six music shops, so our stay here starts out really good.</span></div>
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Da oben fehlen mir ein paar Tasten, und auch auf der Bassseite muss ich mich stark einschränken, aber es macht Spaß, einmal wieder Akkordeon zu spielen.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">I'm missing a few keys up there, and on the bass side I'm limited too, but it's so much fun to play the accordion after such a long time.</span></div>
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Oaxaca ist sehr sauber, und die Einwohner scheinen viel Wert auf ordentlich gestrichene Fassaden zu legen.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Oaxaca is very clean, and the locals seem to find it very important to have properly painted house fronts.</span></div>
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Unser erstes Ziel ist der Zócalo, ein belebter Stadtplatz unter Bäumen mit Springbrunnen, Eisdielen, Straßenmusikanten und allerhand Verkäufern.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our first goal is the Zócalo, a lively town square under trees with fountains, ice cream parlours, street musicians and all sorts of vendors.</span></div>
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Oaxaca ist die kulinarische Hauptstadt Mexikos. Ein absolutes Muss sind die heiße Schokolade hier...</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Oaxaca is the culinary capital of Mexico. The hot chocolate here is an absolute must...</span></div>
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... und die verschiedenen Moles, dicke Soßen, die unter anderem ebenfalls mit Schokolade zubereitet werden.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">... as well as the moles, thick sauces made from chocolate amongst other ingredients.</span><br />
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Zum Geburtstag gibt's anstatt des geliebten Starbuckskaffees eine hier geröstete Bohne. Aber am wichtigsten ist natürlich das Bild auf der Packung!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Instead of the beloved Starbucks coffee, Dave gets a locally roasted bean. But the most important part of course is the picture on the package!</span></div>
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Die Kirche Santo Domingo de Guzmán, 1570 vom Dominikanerorden gegründet und 1999 komplett restauriert.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">The Santo Domingo de Guzmán church, founded in 1570 by the Dominican order and renovated completely in 1999.</span></div>
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Eine landestypische Blaskapelle spielt in der Fußgängerzone...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">A typical brass band playing in the pedestrian precinct... </span><br />
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... und bringt die Passanten spontan zum Tanzen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and getting everybody to dance spontaneously.</span><br />
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Ein paar Ecken weiter dasselbe für die ältere Generation: Eine Band mit Marimbas, Gitarren und Schlagzeug spielt vor der Kathedrale auf, und jeder kann mittanzen oder sich den Danzón von einem Tanzmeister beibringen lassen.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">A couple of streets down, the same thing for the older generation: a band with marimbas, guitars and drums is playing in front of the cathedral, and everybody can join in the dance or learn the danzón from an instructor.</span></div>
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Nachtlager: Hotel Paris in Oaxaca</div>
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 23. Januar:</u></b></div>
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Umzug in die Jugendherberge, wo wir als Oaxaca-Neulinge gleich mal mit einem Stamperl Mezcal begrüßt werden, einem 40%igen Agavenschnaps, der mit einer Mottenraupe serviert wird. Tolles Frühstück!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">We move to the youth hostel where all first time visitors are welcomed with a shot of Mezcal, a 40% algave schnapps that's served with the caterpillar of a moth. Great for breakfast!</span></div>
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Da es jetzt auch schon Wurscht ist, gehen wir zur Markthalle, wo wir noch weitere lokale Schmankerl probieren, wie etwa Chapulines (geröstete Heuschrecken mit Chili und Knoblauch) und andere Insekten.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Now that it doesn't matter anymore, we go to the market and try some more local specialties like chapulines (roasted grasshoppers with chilli and garlic) and other insects.</span></div>
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Der berühmte Mezcal.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The famous mezcal.</span><br />
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Blick von der Dachterrasse unseres Hostels zum Monte Albán, ...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View from our roof top terracce to Monte Albán...</span><br />
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... und auf unsere Straße.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and down on our street.</span><br />
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Kuppel in der Kathedrale. Leider erkennt man den Luftballon nicht, der wohl einem Kind ausgekommen ist!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dome in the cathedral. Unfortunately, you cannot see the balloon a child must have lost!</span></div>
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Am Abend findet vor der Kathedrale ein Benefizkonzert statt, wo uns Bryan und Maggie in der ersten Reihe auffinden!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the evening there's a charity concert in front of the cathedral, where Bryan and Maggie find us in the first row!</span></div>
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Wiedersehen nach vier Wochen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Reunion after four weeks.</span><br />
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Nachtlager: Hostal Paulina (super!)<br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 24. Januar:</u></b><br />
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Wir verbringen den ganzen Tag mit Sitar spielen / Spanisch lernen, ratschen, Pläne schmieden und Internet surfen im Hostel. Ganz genau das, was wir nach den anstrengenden letzten Wochen gebraucht haben!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">We spend all day playing the sitar / learning Spanish, chatting, making plans and surfing the internet. Exactly what we wanted to do after those exhausting past few weeks!</span></div>
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<b><u>Samstag, 25. Januar:</u></b><br />
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So, heute gibt's mal ein bisschen Kulturgeschichte. Wir radeln zum Monte Albán und besichtigen, was von der ältesten Stadt Amerikas (gegründet im 8. Jh. v. Chr.) noch übrig ist.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, we take a lesson in cultural history. We ride to Monte Albán and have a look at what's left of the oldest city of the Americas (founded 800 BC).</span></div>
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Behindertengerecht á la Mexiko.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Wheelchair accessibility Mexican style.</span><br />
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Ballsportstadion.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Ballgame stadium.</span><br />
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Im Schatten der großen Bäume lässt sich die absolute Stille hier oben wunderbar genießen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">You can enjoy the absolute quiet up here in the shadow of these old trees.</span><br />
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Sonnenuhr.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sundial.</span><br />
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Eidechse. Bisschen verwackelt, weil ich auf Daves Schultern sitze.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lizard. Not quite sharp because I'm sitting on Dave's shoulders.</span><br />
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Blick hinunter auf Oaxaca.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View down to Oaxaca.</span><br />
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Die Anlage ist wesentlich größer und weitaus besser erhalten, als wir uns vorgestellt hatten. Fast fünf Stunden marschieren wir kreuz und quer herum, lesen Informationstafeln, bewundern die Architektur und versuchen uns vorzustellen, wie die Menschen hier gelebt haben. Wir sind begeistert!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">The site is way bigger and better preserved than we had expected. We walk around for nearly five hours, read information boards, admire the architecture and try to imagine how people have lived here. We love it!</span></div>
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Im dazugehörigen Museum sieht man, was in den Haushalten und Grabstellen gefunden wurde.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the site museum you can see what has been found in the households and tombs.</span><br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 26. Januar:</u></b><br />
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Wieder ein Faulenztag im Hostel: Dave entdeckt das obere Stockbett als Sitarübungsbalkon für sich, während ich mir in unserem eigentlichen Bett einen Film in Intenet anschaue.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Another lazy day in the hostel: Dave discovers the upper bunk bed as his sitar practising loft while I'm watching a movie online in our actual bed.</span></div>
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Wie viele Luftballonverkäufer kann eine Stadt ernähren?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">How many balloon vendors can one city feed?</span><br />
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Wenn wir schon in der Hauptstadt der Schokoladenherstellung sind, dann müssen wir auch mal in eine Chocolateria gehen, ganz klar!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As we're in the capital of chocolate production there's no way around visiting a chocolateria, of course!</span><br />
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Bryan und Maggie nehmen eine gute Portion dieser Schokoladen-Mandel-Paste mit, als vorübergehenden Nutellaersatz.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Bryan and Maggie buy a good portion of this chocolate-almond paste as a temporary Nutella substitute.</span><br />
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Mann, ist das Zeug gut!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Man, this is good stuff!</span><br />
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Unser Abendessen heute: kalte Trinkschokolade mit Kaffee und Gewürzen. Mmmmh!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our dinner tonight: chocolate frappé with coffee and spices. Mmmmh!</span></div>
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<b><u>Montag, 27. und Dienstag, 28. Januar:</u></b><br />
Nach einer Woche in Oaxaca fühlen wir uns mittlerweile gut erholt und bereit für die nächste Etappe unserer Reise, für die wir nur noch ein paar Besorgungen machen müssen: Wäsche waschen, einkaufen, Fahrräder auf Vordermann bringen. Morgen soll's weitergehen durch die Berge Richtung Osten. Wir freuen uns auf tolle Landschaften und kühles Wetter!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After one week in Oaxaca, we feel recovered and ready for the next leg of our journey which we have to prepare for now: doing laundry, shopping, bike maintenance. Tomorrow, we're going to continue east through the mountains. We're looking forward to beautiful landscapes and cool weather!</span></div>
Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Oaxaca, Mexico17.0594169 -96.721621916.937988899999997 -96.8829834 17.1808449 -96.5602604tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-47898521885345638272014-01-22T22:25:00.000-08:002014-01-24T22:24:55.648-08:00Guadalajara bis Oaxaca<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Sonntag, 29. Dezember:</u></b></div>
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Autofreier Sonntag in Guadalajara. Nach dem ungewöhnlich starken Regen sind die Straßen glücklicherweise wieder trocken.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Car free Sunday in Guadalajara. After the unusual downpour around Christmas, the roads luckily are dry again.</span></div>
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Nach genau zwei Wochen Abstinenz schwingen wir uns endlich wieder auf unsere Fahrräder und verlassen Guadalajara. Zusammen mit Rigel und Erin, die sich eine ähnliche Route ausgedacht haben wie wir, fahren wir nach Chapala an den größten See Mexikos, wo wir auf der Ranch von Valentin nächtigen dürfen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After exactly two weeks of abstinence we finally swing ourselves onto our bikes again and leave Guadalajara together with Rigel and Erin, who happen to have thought out a similar route to ours. We ride to Chapala to Mexico's biggest lake where we stay on Valentin's ranch.</span></div>
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Valentin, ein Warmshowers-Gastgeber, wohnt mit seinen Eltern in der Stadt und überlässt uns sein komplettes Anwesen am Stadtrand für zwei Tage.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Valentin, a warmshowers host, lives in town with his parents and leaves his complete estate in the outskirts to us for two days.</span></div>
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Da es wieder einmal regnet, überlegt man es sich schon dreimal, ob man mitten in der Nacht aufs Klo muss!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As it's raining again, we always think twice if we really need to use the outhouse in the middle of the night!</span></div>
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Neben zahlreichen Hunden leben zwei Pferde, ein Muli und zwei Kühe auf der Ranch.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Aside from numerous dogs, there are two horses, a mule and two cows on the ranch.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 58 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: auf Valentins Ranch in Chapala (Warmshowers VIII.)<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 30. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Auf der Ranch gibt es kein Bad, darum pilgern wir heute zu Valentins Stadthaus zum Duschen. Verglichen mit den meisten mexikanischen Duschen bisher schneidet diese Plastikwanne überraschend gut ab: Man füllt sie mit warmem Wasser, das man sich dann mit einer kleinen Schüssel über den Kopf gießt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There is no bathroom on the ranch, so today we wend our way to Valentin's house downtown to have a shower. Compared to most Mexican showers we've seen so far, this plastic tub performs surprisingly well: You fill it with warm water and use a little bowl to pour it over your head.</span></div>
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Vor der Badtür befinden sich der Gastank, der Boiler...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Outside the bathroom, there's the gastank, the boiler...</span><br />
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... und die Waschmaschine bzw. der Waschtisch.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and the laundry.</span><br />
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Frisch gewaschen begeben wir uns auf Futtersuche an den See.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Freshly washed, we go looking for some food at the lake.</span><br />
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Molcajetes, eine lokale Spezialität, im Vulkanstein brodelnd heiß serviert und unglaublich lecker: Rinder- und Hühnchenfleisch, Garnelen, gebratener Nopalkaktus und Zwiebeln in einer süßlich-scharfen Sauce und mit Käse überbacken.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Molcajetes, a local specialty, served bubbling hot in a volcanic rock and incredibly yummy: beef, chicken and prawns, fried nopal cactus and onions in a sweetish-spicy sauce and baked with cheese.</span></div>
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<b><u>Dienstag, 31. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Silvester in Chapala - ein beschaulicher Tag. Blick von unserer Terrasse am Morgen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">New Year's Eve in Chapala - a very tranquil day. View from our terrace this morning.</span><br />
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Fahrradwerkstatt auf der Terrasse: Rigel und Erin arbeiten an ihren Bremsen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Bicycle workshop on the terrace: Rigel and Erin are working on their brakes.</span></div>
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Erin und ich radeln am Vormittag zum Einkaufen - und werden fast von diesem Ast erschlagen, der etwa vier Meter vor uns auf den Radlweg fällt. Klar haben wir die Motorsäge gehört, aber es hätte uns ja auch jemand warnen können, oder?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Erin and I are riding to Walmart in the morning - and nearly get killed by this branch which falls onto the bike path like four metres in front of us. Of course we heard the chainsaw noise, but somebody could have warned us, couldn't they?</span></div>
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Käsefondue auf Mexikanisch: Einfach ein großes Stück Mozzarella in einer Auflaufform backen, auf Wunsch mit ein paar Garnelen drin. Und natürlich geht nix ohne Tortillas. Naja.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Cheese fondue Mexican style: Just bake a big piece of Mozzarella in a casserole dish, with a few prawns to make it fancy. And of course you have to wrap it up with Tortillas. Oh well.</span></div>
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Stadtplatz von Chapala mit Fischbrunnen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Downtown Chapala with an interesting fish pond.</span><br />
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"Dinner for One" im Hotelzimmer mit Rigel und Erin.<br />
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">In our hotel room, we watch the little-known British comedy skit "Dinner for One", a German New Year's custom I wouldn't want to miss.</span></div>
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Das Feuerwerk am See hatten wir uns etwas spektakulärer vorgestellt als es tatsächlich war, aber irgendwie ist außer uns kein Mensch auf der Straße.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We had imagined the fireworks at the lake to be a little more spectacular than they actually were but apart from the four of us, there's nobody out in the streets.</span></div>
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Auch Sekt oder Champagner treiben wir keinen auf, wir stoßen mit Bier und Rotwein aufs neue Jahr an. Höhepunkt ist sicherlich, als ein mehr als nur leicht angesäuselter Polizist, das Gewehr locker in der Hand schwingend, an der Seepromenade auf uns zukommt, jedem einzeln von uns in die Arme fällt und ein gutes Neues wünscht!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We cannot even find sparkling wine or champagne, so we drink to the New Year with beer and red wine. The evening climaxes when a more than just slightly tipsy police man staggers towards us on the lake promenade, swinging his gun loosely in one hand, and gives each of us a big hug and wishes us a happy New Year!</span></div>
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Wir wünschen euch allen ein gutes neues Jahr!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Happy New Year to all of you!</span><br />
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Nachtlager: Hotel San Samario in Chapala<br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 1. Januar 2014:</u></b><br />
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Hier sind sie, die Menschenmassen, die wir gestern Abend erwartet hätten: Beim Neujahrsgottesdienst platzt die Kirche aus allen Nähten!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Here they are, the masses of people whom we had expected last night: The church is bulging at the seams during the New Year's service!</span></div>
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Wir fahren am See entlang nach San Luis Soyatlan und landen in diesem Hotel. Alle Zimmer sind in den oberen Stockwerken, und der Weg dorthin ist etwas eng und kurvig. Aber für 350 Pesos (19,50 Euro) zu viert können wir uns nicht beschweren!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We ride along the lake to San Luis Soyotlan and end up in this hotel. The rooms are all upstairs, and the way there is quite narrow and windy. But for 350 Pesos (29 CAD) between the four of us we cannot complain!</span></div>
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Ein Caballero treibt eine Kuhherde durch die Straßen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">A cowboy driving a herd of cows through the streets.</span><br />
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Federvieh im Hof unseres Hotels. Man weiß nicht so genau, worum es sich handelt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Poultry in the yard of our hotel, not really sure what they are: chickens? ducks? chucks? dickens?</span><br />
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Und wieder einmal eine kulinarische Neuentdeckung: Tostilokos steht in der Speisekarte, und da ich die Erklärung der Bedienung nicht verstehe, bestelle ich das einfach mal. Meine Neugier wird belohnt mit einer seitlich aufgeschnittenen Tüte Chips, in die Zwiebeln, Gurken und ein Wienerwürstchen geschnipselt und mit Chilisoße gewürzt wurden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And another one of my culinary discoveries: Tostilokos is what the menu said, and as I don't understand the explanation I just order it. The reward for my curiosity is a bag of chips that's cut open on one side, filled with chopped onions, cucumbers and a Wiener sausage, and spiced with chilli sauce.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 48,29 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,35 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Delfin in San Luis Soyatlan<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 2. Januar:</u></b></div>
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Der Auszug aus dem Hotel erfolgt via Seil vom Balkon und unter den ungläubigen Blicken der Hotelbesitzer.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We move out of the hotel via a rope from the balcony and under the incredulous eyes of the hotel owners.</span><br />
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Endlich scheint mal wieder die Sonne! Trotzdem ist es nicht besonders heiß, denn wir klettern heute von 1100 auf über 2000 Meter!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sunshine, finally! It still doesn't get too hot though because we climb from 1100 to over 2000 metres altitude!</span><br />
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An einer unscheinbaren Seitenstraße, die zu einem kleinen Dorf führt, schlagen wir in einem Feld unsere Zelte auf. Die Kuhfladen überall stören uns nicht weiter, wir genießen den Blick auf einen kleinen See.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At an inconspicuous side road that leads to a small village, we pitch our tents in a field. The cow patties everywhere don't bother us much, we just enjoy the view over a small lake.</span><br />
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Zwei Skorpione kämpfen um den Platz unter einem Stein.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Two scorpions fighting over the spot under a rock.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 27,14 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 10,73 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Kuhweide an der Straße (Kuhfladen-Camp I.)<br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 3. Januar:</u></b><br />
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Abgesehen von Esels- und Kojotenschreien war es sehr ruhig in der Nacht. Als wir am Morgen beim Aufräumen sind, kommt jedoch die komplette Kuhherde zu Besuch. Samt Stier! Da werden wir dann doch etwas hektisch...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Except for donkeys and coyotes we don't hear anything all night. But when we pack up our gear in the morning, the complete herd of cows comes over for a visit. Including a bull! We do become a little hectic at this point...</span><br />
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Weiterfahrt Richtung Mazamitla<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Riding towards Mazamitla</span><br />
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Am frühen Nachmittag erreichen wir die "magische Stadt" Mazamitla, und stellen fest, dass der Zauber hier vor allem viel kostet. Die staatlichen Auflagen und Zuschüsse für ein <a href="http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pueblo_M%C3%A1gico" target="_blank">"pueblo mágico"</a> bewirken zwar, dass es relativ sauber und ordentlich zugeht, aber der Zulauf von Touristen bringt eben auch mit sich, dass die Einheimischen sich rausnehmen, was geht. Bei 90 Pesos (5 Euro) für eine Ladung Wäsche hört der Spaß echt auf!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the early afternoon, we arrive at the "magic town" Mazamitla where we figure out very quickly that the magic here has its price. The governmental conditions and grants for a </span><a href="http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pueblo_M%C3%A1gico" target="_blank">"pueblo mágico"</a><span style="color: #cc0000;"> make for a relatively clean and orderly place but the locals know how to milk the stream of tourists for their money. And 90 Pesos (7.60 CAD) for a load of laundry is only one example!</span><br />
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Traditionelle Tänzer am Stadtplatz.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Traditional dancers in the town centre.</span><br />
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Kaum geht die Sonne unter, ist es richtig, richtig kalt hier. Kein Wunder, schließlich befinden wir uns auf 2200 Metern Höhe! Das Hotel hat natürlich keine Heizung, also sitzen wir mit allen Jacken und Wolldecken, die wir haben, im Bett und beobachten fasziniert unsere Atemwolken.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As soon as the sun goes down, it gets really really cold here. No wonder, we are at 2200 metres altitude! Of course the hotel doesn't have heating, so that we sit on our beds with all the jackets and wool blankets we've got and realize with fascination that we can see our breaths.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 30 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 9 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Casitas in Mazamitla<br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 4. Januar:</u></b></div>
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Verzweifelter Versuch, die Raumtemperatur auf einen zweistelligen Betrag zu erhöhen. <br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Desperate attempt to rise the room temperature to a two-digit number of degrees.</span><br />
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Zum Frühstück gibt's heiße Nudelsuppe und aufgewärmte Reste von gestern.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">For breakfast, we have hot noodle soup and reheated leftovers from yesterday.</span><br />
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Ruhetag in Mazamitla: Wir gehen einfach nur in der Stadt rum und bewundern die alten Häuser.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Rest day in Mazamitla: We simply walk around downtown and admire the old buildings.</span><br />
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An jeder Straßenecke hält uns jemand ein Stamperl dieser regionalen Spezialität vor die Nase: Eierlikör in den Geschmacksrichtungen Mandel, Karamell, Haselnuss oder Natur.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At every street corner, somebody offers us a sample of this local specialty: egg liqueur with different flavours (almond, caramel, hazelnut or plain).</span><br />
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Ein kleines Mädchen, das wir eine Zeit lang mit ihren Neujahrskrachern beobachten, hat Mitleid mit uns und schenkt uns ein paar. Ähnlich wie ein Streichholz reibt man den roten Kopf über die Pflastersteine, bis er sich entzündet und wenige Sekunden lang schön kracht und stinkt. Rigel ist dadurch so inspiriert, dass er gleich auch welche kauft, nur etwas größere...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">A little girl, whom we watch playing with her New Year's firecrackers, feels pity for us and gives us a few. Similar to a match, you rub the red head over the paving stones until it sparks and crackles and stinks for a couple of seconds. This inspires Rigel to buy some of his own crackers, but a little bigger ones...</span><br />
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Könnte auch irgendwo in den Alpen sein, oder?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Might as well be somewhere in the alps, eh?</span><br />
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Dieses Haus gehört schon seit über 150 Jahren derselben Familie und ist an Wochenenden für Besucher geöffnet. Eine Frau führt uns auf Englisch herum.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This house has been in the same family for over 150 years and is open to visitors at the weekends. A lady gives us a tour in English.</span><br />
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Spülbecken in der Küche<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Kitchen sink</span><br />
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Hübsch verzierter Herd<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Nicely decorated stove</span><br />
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Alter Wasserfilter aus Stein<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Old stone water filter</span><br />
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Innenhof mit Pflanzen und alten Gebrauchsgegenständen<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Courtyard with plants and old farm and household equipment</span><br />
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Schaukelpferd<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Rocking horse</span><br />
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Die zweite Küche (damals hatten reiche Leute immer zwei): Über der Feuerstelle hängt der "Kühlschrank", ein Brett, das die Nahrungsmittel von Ungeziefer und Haustieren fernhielt und durch die erhöhte Lage anscheinend auch ein etwas günstigeres Klima bot. Und ich dachte immer, warme Luft steigt nach oben...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The second kitchen (back in the day, rich people always had two): The board hanging above the fireplace is the "fridge". It keeps the food safe from pests and pets, and the hight also makes for a cooler climate. I would have thought that warm air rises but...</span><br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 5. Januar:</u></b><br />
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Heute geht es bergab! Innerhalb der ersten Stunde ab Mazamitla schaffen wir 30 Kilometer auf einer ruhigen Nebenstraße, die kurven- und aussichtsreich durch eine nie geahnte mexikanische Flora führt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today we get to go downhill! Within the first hour, we go 30 kilometres on a quiet and curvy road that leads through a kind of flora we never dreamed of finding in Mexico.</span><br />
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Ganz hinten entdecken wir einen schneebedeckten Gipfel, aber wir spüren deutlich, wie es mit jedem Kilometer wärmer wird.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We spot a snow covered mountain in the distance, but for us it gets significantly warmer with every kilometre.</span><br />
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Bei einer kurzen Pause kommen Rigels Feuerwerkskörper zum Einsatz. Wie sich jeder vorstellen kann, sind die Vorschriften und Qualitätskontrollen für pyrotechnische Erzeugnisse hierzulande enorm streng...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">During a short break, Rigel's firecrackers get used. As you can imagine, the regulations and quality control regarding pyrotechnical products are tremendously strict in Mexico...</span><br />
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... so dass Erin (gelb) wenige Sekunden nach diesem Foto schreiend Richtung Hütte rennt. Das Video kann ich hier leider nicht hochladen, aber auf Facebook sollte es klappen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... so that Erin (yellow) runs towards the hut screaming just a few seconds after this picture. Unfortunately, I cannot upload the video here but it should work on Facebook.</span><br />
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Zuckerrohrfelder, so weit das Auge reicht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sugarcane fields as far as you can see.</span><br />
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Am späten Nachmittag biegen wir in diesen Feldweg ein und finden nach etwa hundert Metern unseren heutigen Zeltplatz zwischen zwei Zuckerrohrfeldern.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the late afternoon, we turn into this farm path and find a campspot between two sugarcane fields after a hundred metres or so.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 56,93 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 21,51 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: an einer Seitenstraße hinter Tamazula (Zuckerrohr-Camp I.)<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 6. Januar:</u></b><br />
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Nahe liegendes Frühstück: Zuckerrohr.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This breakfast kind of suggested itself: sugarcane.</span><br />
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Auf unserer Fahrt durch den fruchtbaren Süden Jaliscos begleiten uns heute zwei Vulkane; einer davon ist der aktivste in Mexiko, der andere schneebedeckt. Als <span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">der <span style="background-color: white; line-height: 19px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Volcán de Colima (auch genannt </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 19px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Volcán de Fuego, links) am späten Vormittag Rauch ausstößt, bin ich natürlich gerade aufm Klo.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #cc0000; line-height: 19px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">On our way through Jalisco's fertile south we're heading towards these two volcanos today; one of them is the most active in Mexico, the other one covered with snow. But of course, just when the Volcán de Colima (alias Volcán de Fuego, on the left) emits smoke in the late morning, I am in the washroom.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 19px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Hier ist Erins Foto davon.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #cc0000; line-height: 19px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Erin took this picture.</span></span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 89,5 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,77 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: bei Astrid und Chris in Colima (Couchsurfing - ähnlich wie Warmshowers, jedoch nicht beschränkt auf Fahrradtouristen)<br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 7. Januar:</u></b><br />
Heute wollten wir eigentlich einen Organisationstag einlegen; überflüssiges Gepäck heimschicken, einkaufen, Route planen. Doch keiner von uns vieren kann sich vorstellen, noch eine weitere Nacht auf dem dreckigen Boden zwischen fliegenden Ameisen und Kakerlaken zu verbringen und dafür zu bezahlen, indem wir die Hinterlassenschaften einer Ratte wegputzen, die sich während der Abwesenheit der Hausherrinnen letzte Woche hier niedergelassen hat. Wir packen unsere sieben Zwetschgen und verbringen den Großteil des Tages Internet surfend in einem Café, bis wir die Zusage einer anderen Couchsurfing-Gastgeberin erhalten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today we had planned to be an organizational day; sending home some unnecessary luggage, shopping, planning our route. But none of us can see themselves spending another night on the filthy floor between flying ants and cockroaches and paying for it by cleaning up behind a rat who moved in when the heads of the household were away all last week. We pack our belongings and spend the majority of the day surfing the internet in a café until another couchsurfing host accepts us.</span><br />
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Kokospalme in Colima<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Coconut palm in Colima</span><br />
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Nachtlager: bei Tania in Colima (Couchsurfing II.)<br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 8. Januar:</u></b><br />
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Ankunft in Tecomán am Nachmittag. Wir sind genauso fertig wie wir aussehen: Es ist HEISS hier! 35 bis 40 Grad zeigen unsere Fahrradcomputer an, und das bei hoher Luftfeuchtigkeit.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Arrival in Tecomán in the afternoon. We are precisely as exhausted as we look: It is HOT here! Our bike computers show 35 to 40 degrees, and the humidity is really high.</span><br />
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Überall, wo wir auftauchen, blockieren wir alles mit unseren Fahrrädern. Aber sie draußen auf der Straße zu parken kommt nicht in Frage, wir wollen unser Zeug immer im Blick behalten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Where ever we show up we block everything with our bikes. But parking them out on the street is not an option, we want to be able to see them all the time.</span><br />
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Prost!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Cheers!</span><br />
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Nach dem Mittagessen geht es durch endlose Kokosnussplantagen weiter zur Küste. Wir wollen in Boca de Pascuales, einem Surfernest am Pazifik, übernachten. Angeblich gibt es hier bereits Krokodile, aber wir sehen keine.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After lunch we continue to the coast through endless coconut plantations. We want to stay in Boca de Pascuales, a surfing community at the Pacific ocean. Apparently, there are crocodiles around here but we don't see any.</span><br />
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Und das ist unsere Bleibe für heute Nacht: Für 50 Pesos pro Person (2.85 Euro) dürfen wir auf diesem riesigen Balkon über der Strandterrasse des Hotels Paco unsere Zelte aufschlagen und in einem der Zimmer nebenan das Bad benutzen! Der Wahnsinn!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This is our place to stay tonight: For 50 pesos per person (</span><span style="color: #cc0000;">4.20 CAD) we get to pitch our tents on a huge balcony above the beach terrace of the hotel Paco and use the bathroom in one of the rooms! Awesome!</span><br />
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Als Erstes jedoch springen wir ins Meer, auf das wir uns jetzt schon seit Wochen freuen und Erin und Rigel lernen die Bedeutung der roten Flaggen am Strand kennen, nachdem sie von der Küstenwache aus den Fluten gezogen wurden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">But first we jump into the ocean which we've been looking forward to for weeks now, and Erin and Rigel get to know the meaning of the red flags along the beach after a coastguard has pulled them out of the water.</span><br />
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Aussicht von unserem Zelt aus nach Sonnenuntergang...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View from our tent after sunset...</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 62,81 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 18,67 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Paco in Boca de Pascuales (Paradies-Camp I.)<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 9. Januar:</u></b><br />
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... und kurz nach Sonnenaufgang.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and just after sunrise.</span><br />
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Wir sind uns alle vier einig, dass wir noch einen Tag hierbleiben wollen und machen es uns so richtig gemütlich: Surfer beobachten, lesen, Spanisch lernen, faulenzen, Musik spielen...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We agree to spend another day here and make ourselves at home on the balcony: watching surfers, reading, learning Spanish, lazing about, playing music...</span><br />
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Um 13 Uhr erfolgt die Vertreibung aus dem Paradies. Zwei aufgeblasene Surferschnösel buchen ein Zimmer im oberen Stockwerk des Hotels und beschweren sich, weil sie wegen uns den Aussichtsbalkon nicht benutzen können. Die Hotelbesitzer geben uns eine Stunde zum Packen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Just after noon the expulsion from Paradise takes place. Two snotty-nosed surfer gits book a room in the upper floor of the hotel and complain because they want to use the balcony. The hotel owners give us one hour to leave.</span><br />
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Drei Kilometer weiter südlich finden wir jedoch bereits das nächste Paradies: Die Wirtin des Marisco Maranatha, eines Fischrestaurants direkt am Strand von El Real, lässt uns in ihrem Biergarten zelten, wenn wir bei ihr essen. Na, das ist ja wohl kein Problem!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Three kilometres down the road / beach we already find the next paradise: The owner of the Marisco Maranatha, a seafood restaurant right on the beach of El Real, allows us to camp in her beer garden if we have a meal here. Well, that's not a problem!</span><br />
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Als Nachspeise genehmigen wir uns noch eine Kokosnuss.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">For dessert we have a coconut.</span><br />
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Sehr lecker!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Very yummy!</span><br />
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Und danach geht's ab ins Meer! Es wird ein wunderbarer Nachmittag, und am Abend steht der Mond direkt über uns, die Sterne funkeln und das Meer glitzert. Herz, was willst du mehr?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And afterwards we go swimming! It turns into a wonderful afternoon, and in the evening the moon is right above us, the stars are bright and the ocean is glittering. What else could we possibly wish for?</span><br />
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Nachtlager: Im Biergarten des Marisco Maranatha Restaurants in El Real (Paradies-Camp II.)<br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 10. Januar:</u></b><br />
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Pelikane, Möwen und andere Vögel beim Frühstück.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Pelicans, sea gulls and other bird folk having breakfast.</span><br />
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Ein Pelikan, kurz bevor er sich kopfüber in die Fluten stürzt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">One pelican just before diving into the crashing wave headfirst.</span><br />
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Heute also ist unser wohl verdienter und lang ersehnter Erholungstag.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">So today gets to be our well-deserved and longed for rest day.</span><br />
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Höhepunkt ist, als von einer Palme in "unserem" Biergarten ein Ast abbricht und zwei reife Kokosnüsse mit sich reißt. Da werden wir aktiv... Links die eigentliche Nuss, rechts die Außenschale.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Highlight: a branch of a palm tree in "our" beer garden breaks off and takes two ripe coconuts with itself. Now that keeps us busy and excited for a while... The actual nut on the left, the husk on the right.</span><br />
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Es dauert eine Weile, bis wir uns ans Eingemachte vorgearbeitet haben...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It takes a while to get into the nut...</span><br />
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... und dann ist es immer noch eine ziemliche Fieselei, das Fruchtfleisch mit dem Löffel herauszuschaben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and then it's still a lot of work to scrape the edible part out with a spoon.</span><br />
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Aber dann!! Ein bisschen Zucker und Limettensaft drüber, und der beste Vormittagshappen seit langem ist fertig!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">But then!! A little bit of sugar and lime juice, and the best late morning snack in a long time is ready!</span><br />
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Ein wunderschöner und erholsamer Tag geht zu Ende. Das haben wir gebraucht!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">A wonderful and relaxing day ends. We all needed that!</span><br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 11. Januar:</u></b><br />
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Toller Zaun für eine Limettenplantage, oder?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Great fence for a lime plantation, isn't it?</span><br />
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Keine Ahnung, was das ist. Sieht aus wie Mais, ist aber nur einen Meter hoch.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">No idea what this is. Looks like corn but only stands one metre tall.</span><br />
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Zurück in der Stadt Tecomán fragen wir nach dem Postamt. Dieser Fahrradpolizist hört, wie eine junge Frau uns den Weg beschreibt und ahnt, dass wir da nie hinfinden. Er lotst uns durch die Stadt und nimmt uns (oder sich??) dabei so wichtig, dass er an jeder Stopstelle sein Pfeiferl zückt und den Verkehr auf der Hauptstraße aufhält. Aber natürlich hat die Post am Samstag zu.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Back in Tecomán, we ask for the post office. This police officer overhears a young lady explaining the way there and guesses that we'll never find it. He pilots us through the town and takes us (or himself??) so seriously that he takes out his whistle at every stop sign and blocks the traffic on the other roads. But of course the post office is closed on Saturdays.</span><br />
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Wir teilen uns ein Hotelzimmer, das günstig für einen frühen Start morgen liegt. Dave und Erin gefällt der Gedanke, um 7 Uhr aufstehen zu müssen, zwar gar nicht. Aber die Nachmittage sind hier schlichtweg unerträglich schwül, so dass uns nur ein paar Stunden am Vormittag zum Vorwärtskommen bleiben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We share a hotel room that is located very conveniently for an early start tomorrow. Dave and Erin don't like the idea of getting up at 7 am at all, but the afternoons here are simply unbearably sultry so that we only have a few hours in the morning to make some distance.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Kilometer: 16<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Pacifico in Tecomán<br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 12. Januar:</u></b><br />
Ohne die Klimaanlage in unserem Hotelzimmer wären wir gestorben, denn es kühlt die ganze Nacht nicht ab. Ab heute kommt also Rigels Wecker zum Einsatz, doch allein das Zusammenpacken in dieser Hitze ist so anstrengend, dass wir wieder erst um 10 Uhr loskommen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Without the air conditioning in our hotel room we would have died, it doesn't even get cool at night. From today on, Rigel's alarm gets used, but packing up alone is so exhausting in this heat that it takes us three hours before we actually get going.</span><br />
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Gott sei Dank geht es zunächst flach dahin, zwischen kilometerlangen Bananen- und Limettenplantagen, so dass wir schnell vorankommen und den Dschungel um uns herum bewundern können. Zum ersten Mal seit Monaten überqueren wir heute auch einen Fluss - die Grenze zwischen den Bundesstaaten Colima und Michoacán.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Thank god at least it's flat here, so that we make good progress riding along kilometres and kilometres of banana and lime plantations, admiring the jungle around us. For the first time in months we cross a river today - the border between the two states of Colima and Michoacán.</span></div>
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Wie in Australien, hängen auch hier Plastiksäcke über den Bananen, um die Früchte vor mechanischen Schäden zu schützen. Außerdem kann man mit der Tütenfarbe den Reifeprozess beeinflussen: Himmelblau beschleunigt die Reifung und führt zu hohem Zuckergehalt, transparent beschleunigt ebenfalls, aber führt zu erhöhtem Glucose- und Fructosegehalt, während weiße oder gelbe Tüten den Prozess verlangsamen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Just like in Australia, they put plastic bags around the bananas to protect them from physical damage. Also, you can influence the ripening process with the bags' colour: sky-blue accelerates the ripening and increases the amount of sugar in the fruits, transparent also accelerates the process but increases the glucose and fructose, whereas white and yellow bags slow down the ripening.</span><br />
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Am frühen Nachmittag, nach einem harmlosen Berg, geht nichts mehr. Auf der Suche nach einem schönen Fleckchen für eine Siesta am Strand stoßen wir auf das Hotel Parador in San Juan, wo wir auf einer kleinen Wiese neben der Terrasse zelten dürfen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the early afternoon, after a harmless hill, we are done. We're looking for a nice spot for a siesta on the beach when we find the Hotel Parador in San Juan, where we can camp on a little patch of grass next to the restaurant.</span><br />
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Den Rest des Tages verbringen wir beim Wellenhüpfen im Meer...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The rest of the day we spend practicing what Dave calls the "backwards torpedo" in the waves...</span><br />
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... und mit kalten Getränken im Restaurant des Hotels.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and cooling down with refreshments from the hotel restaurant.</span><br />
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Sonnenuntergangsstimmung<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sun set</span><br />
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Mein Versuch, ein romantisches Foto von Erin und Rigel zu machen, wird durch deren eifriges Kratzen an ihren Mückenstichen vereitelt. Naja.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">I try to get a romantic shot from Erin and Rigel, but these two just won't stop scratching their mosquito bites.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 49,09 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 19 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: im Garten des Hotels Parador in San Juan (Paradies-Camp III.)<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 13. Januar:</u></b><br />
Wieder stehen wir um 7 Uhr auf, und wieder dauert es geschlagene drei Stunden, bis wir tatsächlich aufbrechen. Am frühen Nachmittag hat es auch wieder zwischen 35 und 40 Grad, und die Küstenstraße ist alles andere als flach. Die Landschaft ist allerdings wunderschön grün, und wir erarbeiten uns ein paar richtig tolle Aussichten aufs Meer, aber nach drei Bergen mit bis zu 10 % Steigung reicht es.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We get up at 7 am again, and again we don't leave until 10 o'clock. In the early afternoon it's around 35 to 40 degrees again, and the road along the coast is anything but flat. The landscape is beautiful and green, and we have some great views on the ocean, but after three hills with up to 10 % gradient it's enough.</span><br />
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Wir folgen einem "Ökotourismus"-Schild Richtung Küste und landen in einem kleinen Dorf, das Urlaubern kostenlos diese Palmwedelhütten (Palapas), Toiletten und Duschen zur Verfügung stellt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We follow a "ecotourism" sign towards the coast and end up in a little village that offers these little huts (palapas), toilets and showers to visitors for free.</span><br />
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Zwei einheimische Buben kommen mit ihren Rädern herüber und wollen natürlich alles über unsere Fahrräder wissen. Nach einer Weile wird mir das zu anstrengend und ich frage sie, ob sie vielleicht eine gute Stelle wissen, wo man Kokosnüsse besorgen kann...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Two local boys come over with their bikes and of course they want to know everything about our stuff. After a while this gets too tiring for me and so I ask them if they happen to know a good place to get coconuts from...</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 38 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 13,77 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Palapa in Manzanillera (Paradies-Camp IV.)<br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 14. Januar:</u></b><br />
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Beim Frühstück entdecken wir diese Riesenbrummer, die im Dach unseres Palapas nisten. In Größe und Lautstärke ähneln sie Hornissen, sind aber dunkler und wesentlich pummeliger.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">During breakfast we see these giant insects who live in the roof of our palapa. In size and loudness they resemble hornets but they are way darker and chubbier.</span><br />
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Dave BEVOR wir aufbrechen. So kann das nicht weitergehen, es ist einfach viel zu heiß! Wir beschließen, morgen schon um 5 Uhr aufzustehen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave BEFORE we leave. We cannot continue like this, it's just too hot! We decide to get up at 5 am tomorrow.</span><br />
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Es geht relativ gut voran, und vor allem oben auf den Hügeln gibt es immer wieder mal eine sanfte Brise zur Erfrischung.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We're making good progress though, and especially on the hill tops we sometimes get a little bit of a breeze to cool down.</span><br />
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Die Küste von Michoacán ist sehr ländlich geprägt. Das hier ist die typische Behausung einer Familie.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The coast of Michoacán is very rural. This is the typical home of a family.</span><br />
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Ständige Begleiter hier: Eidechsen und Geckos.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lizards and geckos are everywhere around us.</span><br />
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Heute bleiben wir nach dem Mittagessen in Maruata hängen, einem weiteren der "Ökotourismus"-Orte. Hier gibt es eine Meeresschildkrötenaufzuchtstation, doch außer diesen mit orangenen Fähnchen markierten Brutstätten und ein paar Informationstafeln ist nichts los...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today we get stuck in Maruata after lunch, another one of those "ecotourism" places. There's a sea turtle hatchery on the beach, but all we can see are these orange flags marking eggs and a couple of information boards...</span><br />
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... bis um etwa 22 Uhr. Die erwachsenen Weibchen, wie etwa diese über einen Meter lange schwarze Schildkröte, kommen an Land, graben sich ein Nest im Sand und legen ihre Eier. Dank dem derzeitigen (fast) Vollmond können wir gut die Spuren am Strand erkennen und ihnen folgen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... until around 10 pm. The mature females like this one here, a black turtle of over one metre length, come up on land, dig a hole into the sand and lay their eggs. Thanks to the (nearly) full moon we can see their tracks on the beach and follow them.</span><br />
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Als wir zurückkommen, sind rund um unsere beiden Zelte lauter Babyschildkröten, die gerade erst geschlüpft sind, und auf ihrem Weg ins Meer an unseren Sachen hängengeblieben sind.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When we come back to our tents, they are surrounded by baby turtles who've just hatched and got stuck in our gear on their way into the ocean.</span><br />
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Dave tastet sich ganz vorsichtig im Zelt voran und schiebt die Tierchen Richtung Rand, bis ich sie von außen fassen und unter dem Zeltboden herausfischen kann.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Very carefully, Dave gropes his way through our tent and pushes the animals towards the edge until I can grab them from outside and fish them out from underneath the tent floor.</span><br />
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Es dauert eine Weile, bis wir nichts mehr Krabbeln hören. Wir sammeln alle in unserem Spülbecken und bringen sie dann zum Wasser.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It takes a while until we don't hear any more crawling. We collect them all in our camping sink and bring them to the water.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 26,51 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 13,69 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Palapa in Maruata (Paradies-Camp V.)<br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 15. Januar:</u></b><br />
Wir schaffen es tatsächlich, um 5 Uhr aufzustehen und um halb sieben startklar zu sein. Nur ist es da noch zu dunkel, drum warten wir noch ein bisschen. Als wir um 7 Uhr losfahren, hat es "nur" 21 Grad, doch trotz der relativen Kühle wird es ein brutaler Tag: Ständig geht es vom Küstenniveau auf 150 bis 200 Meter hoch und wieder runter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Surprisingly, we actually get up at 5 am and are ready to leave at half past six. Only that it's too dark still, so we wait a little longer. At 7 o'clock, it's "only" 21 degrees, but even though we ride in the relative coolness it's a brutal day: Time after time we climb from sea level to 150 or 200 metres altitude, only to descend again.</span><br />
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Es herrscht nahezu kein Verkehr, dafür kreuzen eine Kuh, eine Tarantel, etliche Hunde, Esel, Schweine und irgendwelche Kleinbären (möglicherweise Katzenfrette) unseren Weg durch die bewaldeten Ausläufer der Sierra Madre del Sur.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There is hardly any traffic apart from a cow, a tarantula, several dogs, donkeys, pigs and some kind of procyonids (possibly Cacomistles or mexican racoons) that cross our way through the forested foothills of the Sierra Madre del Sur.</span><br />
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Mit Ach und Krach erreichen wir Tizupan, wo wir beim Mittagessen von einem Strand in der Nähe erfahren. Hier sitzen wir vor der Hütte des Campingplatzwirts und können uns eine halbe Stunde lang nicht aufraffen, unsere Räder runter zum Strand zu schieben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We just barely make it to Tizupan for lunch where we learn about a beach nearby. When we arrive there we just hang out in front of the camp host's hut for half an hour before we summon up enough energy to push our bikes down to the beach.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 48,7 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 13 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Campingplatz in Tizupan (Paradies-Camp VI.)<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 16. Januar:</u></b><br />
Der Wecker klingelt wieder um 5 Uhr. Und klingelt. Und klingelt. Die Anstrengung von gestern steckt uns noch voll in den Gliedern, so dass uns die Entscheidung hierzubleiben nicht schwerfällt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Rigel's alarm goes off at 5 am again, and it beeps and beeps and beeps. We all feel yesterday's exertion in our bones, so that the decision to stay here is a quick one.</span><br />
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Unser Zelt kurz vor Sonnenaufgang. Das Außenzelt und die Schlafsäcke haben wir schon über eine Woche nicht mehr gebraucht!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our tent just before sunrise. We haven't used the fly and our sleeping bags for over a week now!</span><br />
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Nicht einmal zum Schwimmen oder zu einem Strandspaziergang können wir uns aufraffen, so schwül ist es (um die 38 Grad bei über 80 % Luftfeuchtigkeit). Wir sitzen / liegen den ganzen Tag im Schatten, lesen und schmieden Reisepläne.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We cannot even pull ourselves up to go for a swim or a walk on the beach. It's around 38 degrees with over 80 % humidity, so we just sit / lay in the shadow all day, reading and making travel plans.</span><br />
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Sonnenuntergang.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sunset.</span><br />
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Dave und ich schlafen schon, da weckt uns Erin auf, um uns ihr neuestes Haustier vorzustellen: eine Kröte. Sicherheitshalber in Klopapier eingewickelt, falls sie giftig sein sollte. Langsam glaube ich echt, dass der Vollmond so seine Wirkung auf manche Leute hat...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I are already asleep when Erin wakes us up to present her newest pet: a toad. Wrapped into toilet paper, for safety reasons, in case it's poisonous. The full moon is taking its toll...</span><br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 17. Januar:</u></b><br />
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In Nexpa machen wir den Fehler, nicht gleich Feierabend zu machen, sondern bis zum nächstgrößeren Ort Caleta de Campos weiterzufahren. Da gibt es zwar bessere Einkaufsmöglichkeiten, aber der Ort an sich ist ziemlich schäbig und das Übernachtungsangebot eine Katastrophe:<br />
~ Hotel Dayz ab 750 Pesos pro Zimmer, aber hat als einziges Internet in der Stadt<br />
~ Hotel Palomar del Sol für 350 Pesos pro Zimmer, aber arg simpel und nicht sauber<br />
~ Palapa-Camping in mehreren Strandrestaurants je 50 Pesos pro Person, aber beengt, laut und dreckig<br />
~ Campingplatz 100 Pesos, aber das Damenklo dient als Hühnerbad und das Geschrei der rund 20 Hähne macht uns wahnsinnig<br />
~ Zimmer in einem Restaurant 400 Pesos, aber Dusche und Klo sind quer über den Hof.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In Nexpa we make the mistake of not calling it a day yet but continuing on to the bigger town of Caleta de Campos. There are more shopping possibilities in Caleta but the place itself is pretty shabby and the choices to stay for the night are catastrophic:</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">~ Hotel Days from 750 Pesos per room, but it's got the only internet in town</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">~ Hotel Palomar del Sol for 350 Pesos per room, but very simple and not clean</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">~ Palapa camping in several beach restaurants for 50 Pesos per person, but crowded, loud and dirty</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">~ Campground 100 Pesos, but the ladies' washroom is the chickens' bathroom and the noise of the roosters is driving us crazy</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">~ Rooms in a restaurant 400 Pesos, but showers and toilets are across the yard.</span><br />
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Letztendlich entscheiden wir uns für das billige Hotel. Nachteil: Ameisen nutzen unser Bett als Brücke zwischen zwei Wänden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the end, we go for the cheap hotel. Disadvantage: ants are using our bed as a bridge between two walls.</span><br />
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Vorteil: Wir können diesen Polizei- und Militäreinsatz aus nächster Nähe beobachten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Advantage: we get to watch this police- and military coup from the pole position.</span><br />
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Keiner kann uns sagen, was los ist, aber plötzlich sind etwa sechs dieser Fahrzeuge, völlig überladen mit schwer bewaffneten Polizisten, in der Einfahrt zu den Strandrestaurants gegenüber. Am Strand sehen wir außerdem Soldaten. Sie scheinen irgendjemanden zu suchen, denn sie durchkämmen jedes Restaurant und jede Einfahrt. Dabei agieren sie so hektisch, dass einer beim Rangieren einen Telefonmasten rammt, ein anderer beim Laufen sein Gewehr fallen lässt und ein dritter fast von einem Kollegen über den Haufen gefahren wird.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Nobody can tell us what's going on but suddenly, there are about six of these cars, completely overloaded with heavily armed police men, in the driveway to the beach restaurant across the street. We also see soldiers on the beach. They seem to be looking for somebody because they are combing every restaurant and every driveway. They're in such a mad rush and so clumsy that one of them rams a telephone mast backing up his truck, another one drops his gun while he's running, and a third one nearly gets knocked down by his colleague's car.</span><br />
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Irgendwann kommen sie aus der Seitenstraße heraus, in der wir fast übernachtet hätten. Auf dem Boden der Ladefläche liegen zwei gefesselte Zivilpersonen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At some point they come out of the street where we nearly had decided to stay. There are two civilians in handcuffs lying on their bellies in the back of the truck.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 57,72 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 14,79 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Palomar del Sol in Caleta de Campos<br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 18. Januar:</u></b><br />
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Kleiner Frühsport: Die Brücke rechts ist noch nicht ganz fertig, darum wird der Verkehr einfach daran vorbeigeleitet. Für uns heißt das durch den feinen Sand schieben, und zwar bei geschätzten 18 % Steigung. Danach brauchen wir eine Pause! Ansonsten verläuft der Tag aufregungsfrei und so normal, wie es in Mexiko eben geht :-)<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Little exercise in the morning: The bridge on the right isn't finished yet, so they just divert traffic on the side. For us that means pushing our bikes through the fine sand down the slope and up again, at a guessed gradient of 18 %. We need a break afterwards! Other than that, the day goes by without any excitements and as normal as it gets in Mexico :-)</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 55,25 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,61 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Playa Azul in Playa Azul<br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 19. Januar:</u></b><br />
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Ganz normal, seitdem wir in Mexiko sind: Ein Abfalleimer neben dem Klo, denn alles außer menschliche Erzeugnisse würde den reibungslosen Ablauf der Abwasserentsorgung schwer gefährden. Interessanter Nebeneffekt: Es gibt nur parfümiertes Klopapier zu kaufen, wohl um das natürliche Fäkalaroma in den Bädern und Toiletten zu kaschieren.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Totally normal since we've been in Mexoco: a bin next to the toilet, because everything except human byproducts would seriously endanger the functionality of the plumming. Interesting side effect: You can only buy scented toilet paper here, in order to camouflage the natural aroma of faeces in the bathrooms.</span><br />
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Rigel und Erin bleiben noch eine Nacht in Playa Azul, Dave und ich fahren weiter nach Ciudad Lázaro Cárdenas, wo wir einmal in Ruhe darüber diskutieren können, wie es weitergehen soll. So schön die Gegend hier auch ist, wir haben erstmal genug Strände gesehen, genug Meeresfrüchte gegessen und vor allem genug geschwitzt! Mithilfe von Landkarte und Internet basteln wir eine Route zusammen, die uns wieder mehr ins Landesinnere führen soll und hoffentlich etwas abwechslungsreicher ist. Danach überlegen wir, ob und wie viel wir von Mexiko überspringen sollen und recherchieren die Optionen Reisebus und Mietauto.<br />
Letztendlich entscheiden wir uns dafür, mit dem Bus über Acapulco nach Oaxaca zu fahren und von dort aus wieder weiterzuradeln. Das sind zwar fast 1000 Kilometer geschummelt, aber 700 davon sind genau das, was wir jetzt die ganze Zeit gehabt haben: Strand und schwüle Hitze.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Rigel and Erin stay in Playa Azul for another night, Dave and I ride on to Ciudad Lázaro Cárdenas where we get to discuss how we want to continue this trip. As nice as the area around here is, we've seen enough beaches, eaten enough seafood and above all - sweated enough for a while! Consulting our map and the internet, we figure out a route that's going to lead us back inland again and hopefully provides a little more diversity. Afterwards, we consider if and how much of Mexico we should skip and research the options to rent a car or take a coach.</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the end, we decide to go to Oaxaca via Acapulco by bus and continue by bicycle again from there. That's nearly 1000 kilometres of cheating, but 700 of that is exactly what we've had lately: beaches and sultry heat.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 21,24 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 15,77 km<br />
Nachtlager: Yunuen Hotel in Ciudad Lázaro Cárdenas<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 20. Januar:</u></b><br />
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Heute holen uns Rigel und Erin ein, und als wir ihnen von unseren Plänen erzählen, beschließen sie ebenfalls mit dem Bus nach Acapulco zu fahren. Allerdings ein paar Stunden nach uns, damit wir nicht vier Fahrräder samt Gepäck in einen Bus stopfen müssen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today Rigel and Erin catch up to us, and when we tell them about our plans they decide to take a bus to Acapulco as well, just a couple of hours after us - so that we don't have to cram four bikes and gear into one bus.</span><br />
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Da wir noch fast zehn Stunden zu vertrödeln haben, bevor wir am Busbahnhof sein müssen, suchen wir uns ein kleines Restaurant. Neben den üblichen Soßen, Gewürzen und Gemüseschüsseln auf dem Tisch finden wir diesen Keramikfrosch mit Erde. ???<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As we still have nearly ten hours to kill before we have to be at the bus terminal, we look for a little restaurant. Aside from the usual sauces, spices and vegetable dishes on the table we find this ceramic frog with soil. ??? Mmmmmmm.... Soil.....</span><br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 21. Januar:</u></b><br />
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Ankunft in Acapulco nach sechs Stunden Fahrt um 4 Uhr morgens. Leider im verkehrten Busbahnhof, wie wir erfahren - der Bus nach Puerto Escondido fährt woanders ab. Erstmal gibt's Nudelsuppe für die Nerven, danach bitten wir einen Taxifahrer, uns durch die Stadt zu lotsen, denn die Wegbeschreibungen der Einheimischen, die wir fragen, verwirren uns nur.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Arrival in Acapulco after six hours on the bus at 4 am. Unfortunately at the wrong bus terminal, as we are told - the coach to Puerto Escondido leaves from another station. First, we have some noodle soup for our nerves, then we ask a taxi driver to pilot us through the town, because the way some locals describe how to get there is very confusing.</span><br />
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Acapulco ist eine riesige Stadt, laut, chaotisch und eher dreckig. Von dem zu urteilen, was wir vom Busfenster aus zu sehen bekommen, verpassen wir nichts. Im Folgenden ganz lose einige Eindrücke von der langen Fahrt nach Puerto Escondido:<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Acapulco is a huge city, loud, chaotic and dirty. Judging from what we see through the bus windows, we don't miss out on anything. In the following are some impressions of our long journey to Puerto Escondido:</span><br />
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Acapulcos beliebtestes Auto<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Most popular car in Acapulco</span><br />
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Mexikaner wissen die Ladefläche von Pickups zu nutzen - von Pferden bis zu achtköpfigen Familien sieht man alles.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In Mexico, people really know how to use the back of a pickup truck - you see everything from horses to families of eight.</span><br />
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Absicherung eines mannshohen Lochs in der Straße.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Safety rocks next to a hole in the road, as tall as a man.</span><br />
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Vertraute Markennamen<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Familiar brand names</span><br />
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Reifenstapel als Erkennungsmerkmal einer Autowerkstatt.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Tire stacks advertising a mechanic.</span></div>
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Gipfel einer Unkultur: Diese etwa zehn Zentimeter hohen Teerbuckel, die einen wahllos alle paar hundert Meter zum Runterbremsen zwingen. Sie sind ein Hauptgrund dafür, dass die reine Fahrtzeit von Lázaro Cárdenas nach Oaxaca (985 Kilometer) insgesamt 24 Stunden beträgt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The height of an anti-culture: Speed bumps, forcing you to slow down randomly every couple of hundred metres. They are a major reason why the drive from Lázaro Cárdenas to Oaxaca (985 kilometres) takes 24 hours in total!</span><br />
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Kokosnüsse zu verkaufen<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Coconuts for sale</span><br />
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Bushaltestelle<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Bus stop</span><br />
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Marterl<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Shrines</span><br />
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Straßenköter, die sind hier wirklich überall.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Street dogs are everywhere.</span><br />
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Girlanden<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Garlandes.</span><br />
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Waschtag<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Laundry day.</span><br />
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Blühende Bäume<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Colourful trees</span><br />
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Immer im Bild: Müll.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Always in the picture: Garbage.</span><br />
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Lösungsversuch<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Attempt to solve the problem.</span><br />
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Ehemalige Müllverbrennungsanlage.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Former garbage fire.</span><br />
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Marienkapelle mit Girlanden in Landesfarben<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Chapel with garlandes in Mexico's colours.</span><br />
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Jedesmal, wenn wir stehenbleiben, kommen Straßenhändler in den Bus.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Whenever we stop some street vendors come into the bus.</span><br />
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Wir erreichen Puerto Escondido nach zehn Stunden Fahrt an der Küste entlang, und besorgen uns sogleich Fahrkarten für den Nachtbus nach Oaxaca.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We arrive Puerto Escondido after a ten hour bus ride along the coast, and buy tickets for the night bus to Oaxaca right away.</span><br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 22. Januar:</u></b><br />
Nach weiteren acht Stunden Busfahrt sehen wir entsprechend müde und abgekämpft aus, als wir heute morgen in Oaxaca ankommen:<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After another eight hours on the bus, we look as tired and exhausted as you'd expect when we arrive in Oaxaca this morning:</span><br />
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Wir finden auf Anhieb ein nettes Hotel, in dem wir bereits um halb acht Uhr einchecken können, und schlafen erstmal gründlichst aus. Danach machen wir einen ersten Erkundungsspaziergang in Oaxaca und fühlen uns sofort wohl hier: Die Stadt ist sehr sauber, die Leute freundlich und das Klima angenehm. Hier wollen wir ein paar Tage bleiben, bevor wir uns wieder auf die Räder schwingen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We find a nice hotel right away where we can already check in at half past seven, and finally get some sleep. Afterwards, we walk around town and feel really good about being here: Oaxaca is clean, the people friendly and the climate pleasant. We want to stay here for a few days before we continue our bike tour!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 985 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 41 km/h (Bus!)<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Paris in Oaxaca<br />
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Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0Oaxaca, Mexico17.0594169 -96.721621916.937988899999997 -96.8829834 17.1808449 -96.5602604tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-53514133360899833602013-12-29T19:44:00.000-08:002014-01-24T22:17:32.201-08:00La Paz bis Guadalajara<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Freitag, 20. Dezember:</u></b></div>
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Abschied von Glenda und ihrem Sohn Glen. Nach fünf Tagen in ihrem Haus fällt es uns echt schwer auszuziehen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Goodbye, Glenda and Glen! After five days in their house, it's very hard to move out again!</span><br />
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Wir kommen überpünktlich am Fährhafen an, weil wir noch keine Fahrkarten haben. Doch da es sich um eine Frachtfähre handelt, müssen wir warten, bis alle Lastzüge an Bord sind, und darauf hoffen, als Letzte noch einen Platz zu ergattern.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We arrive at the ferry terminal very early because we don't have any tickets yet. But as it's a freight ferry, we have to wait until all the trucks have boarded and hope to get on as the last passengers.</span></div>
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Die Brummi- und Wohnmobilfahrer schlafen natürlich alle in ihren Fahrzeugen. Dave und ich holen unsere Luftmatratzen und Schlafsäcke und machen es uns oben auf dem Deck bequem. So bequem es eben geht, so direkt neben der Tür zu einem Maschinenraum.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Most of the truck- and RV drivers sleep in their own vehicles. Dave and I grab our air mattresses and get comfortable on the upper deck. As comfortable as it gets right next to the door to one of the engine rooms.</span></div>
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Doch laut ist es auf der Fähre überall, und unsere großen Vorteile sind die frische Luft und der Mond, der die Wolken von hinten beleuchtet.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">But it's loud everywhere, and the advantages on deck are the fresh air and the moonlight playing with the clouds.</span></div>
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<b><u>Samstag, 21. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Sonnenaufgang vom Schlafsack aus.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Watching the sunrise from our sleeping bags.</span><br />
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Ankunft in Mazatlán.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Arrival in Mazatlán.</span><br />
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Wir könnten ewig nur hier an der Strandpromenade sitzen und rumschauen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We could sit at the beach front and look around for ever.</span><br />
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Taxis hier sind entweder diese umgebauten VW Käfer...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Taxis here are either these modified Volkswagen Beetles...</span><br />
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... oder Pickups mit Holzbänken auf der Ladefläche.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">... or pickup trucks with wooden benches on the back.</span></div>
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Direkt an der Strandpromenade finden wir auch diesen Klassiker: Das Belmar Hotel aus den 1920er Jahren, in dem in seiner Blütezeit viele Berühmtheiten abgestiegen sind.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We find this classic right on the beach front: The Belmar Hotel, built in the 1920s, used to accommodate lots of famous people in its heydays.</span></div>
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Altmodisches Flair, wohin das Auge blickt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Old fashioned flair wherever you look!</span><br />
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Eingangsbereich mit Blick aufs Meer.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The lobby looks out on the ocean.</span><br />
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Sogar einen Pool gibt es hier!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">They even have a pool here!</span><br />
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Wir bekommen ein Zimmer für 200 Pesos (11,25 Euro). Im ersten Stock gelegen, aber mit dem Fahrrad über eine Rampe gut erreichbar. Es ist eher muffig, und ein Blick ins Bad verrät, dass der Hausmeister hier einst bei der Arbeit unterbrochen wurde und nie zurückgekehrt ist... Das Zimmer nebenan ist etwas besser, und da sich anscheinend wirklich nie jemand in diesen Trakt des Hauses verirrt, fällt es auch keinem auf, dass wir beide Zimmer benutzen. Und zwar bis um 17 Uhr am nächsten Tag.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We score a room for 200 pesos (16,30 CAD). It's on the second floor but easily accessible by bike via a ramp. It's very musty, and one look into the bathroom tells us that once upon a time, the maintenance guy was interrupted here and never returned... The room next door is a little better, and as nobody ever seems to come into this part of the building, nobody notices that we're using both rooms. Until 5 pm the next day!</span></div>
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Lobster Fettuccine für 150 Pesos (8,50 Euro) stand auf der Tafel am Eingang. Nie hätten wir damit gerechnet, dass wir dafür einen ganzen Hummer bekommen! Wahnsinn, in Alaska hätten wir dafür das Fünffache bezahlt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The advertisement said "Lobster Fettuccine 150 pesos (12,25 CAD). We would've never dreamed of getting a whole lobster for that! That's so crazy. In Alaska, we would've paid five times as much!</span></div>
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<b><u>Sonntag, 22. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Wir verbringen den ganzen Tag am Strand, im Meer und in den winzigen Cafés an der Strandpromenade.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We spend all day on the beach, in the ocean and in the tiny cafes along the seafront.</span></div>
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Am späten Nachmittag machen wir uns zusammen mit Steve aus Montreal, den wir vor unserem Hotel treffen, auf Richtung Busbahnhof. Steve will eigentlich nach Puerto Vallarta fahren, bekommt aber keinen Platz im Bus mehr und beschließt spontan, uns nach Guadalajara zu begleiten. Für den Transfer müssen wir unsere Räder komplett auseinandernehmen und jedes Einzelteil mit einem Ticket versehen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the late afternoon, we meet Steve from Montreal who wants to go to Puerto Vallarta by bus. So we ride to the bus terminal together. The bus to Puerto Vallarta is full so Steve decides to accompany us on our trip to Guadalajara. We have to disassemble our bikes and attach a ticket to every piece of luggage for the transfer.</span></div>
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<b><u>Montag, 23. Dezember:</u></b></div>
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Nach acht Stunden Fahrt erreicht der Bus Guadalajara um halb fünf Uhr in der Früh. Wir packen unsere Räder wieder - alles scheint heil angekommen zu sein. Als wir um kurz vor acht Uhr bei Alexas Großeltern mitten im Stadtzentrum klingeln, werden wir von Alexas Familie und ein paar bekannten, wenn auch verschlafenen Gesichtern sehr herzlich empfangen: Es soll eine große Familienweihnachtsfeier mit Fahrradtouristen werden!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After eight hours on the bus, we arrive in Guadalajara at half past four in the morning. We assemble our bikes again - looks like everything has arrived intact. When we ring the doorbell at Alexa's grandparents' house right in the centre of Guadalajara just before eight o'clock, we are welcomed very warmly by Alexa's family and a few familiar but sleepy faces: It's going to be a big family Christmas party with cyclists!</span><br />
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Was für ein prächtiges Haus! Hier ein paar Eindrücke aus der 300 Jahre alten Stadtvilla, die Alexas Eltern bis vor kurzem renoviert haben:<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">What a splendid house! Here are a few impressions of the 300 year old villa which Alexa's parents have renovated until just recently:</span><br />
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Brunnen im Innenhof<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Fountain in the courtyard</span><br />
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Treppe zur Dachterrasse<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Staircase to the roof terrace</span><br />
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Stuckdecke und bunte Fenster im Esszimmer</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Stucco ceiling and colourful windows in the dining room</span></div>
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Deckengewölbe in der Küche<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Vaulting in the kitchen</span><br />
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Und natürlich wird hier auch stilvoll gebieselt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And of course you also pee in style here!</span></div>
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Frühstück in der Markthalle ums Eck mit frischem Orangen-Karotten-Limetten-Saft.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Breakfast in the market hall just around the corner with fresh orange-carrot-lime juice.</span><br />
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Als ob es nicht schon laut und chaotisch genug hier wäre, stellt sich diese ältere Dame mitten in die Menge und gibt ihre persönliche Version des Trommlerjungen dar. In ihrer Handtasche hat sie einen tragbaren Funklautsprecher, es gibt also kein Entrinnen. Parampapampam.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And as if it wasn't already loud and chaotic enough here, this elderly lady plants herself in the middle of the crowd and presents her very own version of the little drummer boy. There's a wireless loudspeaker in her handbag, so there's no escape until she's done. Parampapampam.</span></div>
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Vor dieser Kirche findet abends ein Volksfest statt, mit allen möglichen Essensständen, Fahrgeschäften und Spielbuden. Den Jungs gefällt vor allem ein Roulette, bei dem anstatt einer Kugel ein Nagetier im Kreis läuft und schließlich irgendwo sitzenbleibt. Ich weigere mich, mich dem Ding zu nähern geschweige denn es zu fotografieren.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There's a fun fair taking place in front of this church at night, with all sorts of food stands, rides and games. The guys particularly like a roulette which sports a rat instead of a ball running around in circles and eventually sitting down on one number. I refuse to come close to that thing let alone take a picture of it.</span></div>
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Kiache bacha auf Mexikanisch: In diesem großen Schmalztopf schwimmt eine lange, dicke Teigwurst, die nachher in Zimtzucker gewälzt wird.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Making Churros: Form a long, thick dough sausage, deep fry it in a big pot and roll it in sugar and cinnamon. </span></div>
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Wir probieren ein mit Vanillepudding, Caramellsoße und Schokolade gefülltes Schmalzgebäck.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We try the filled version with custard, caramel sauce and chocolate.</span><br />
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Eigentlich wollten wir danach noch in die Hüpfburg und ins Bällebad, aber da dürfen nur Kinder rein...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The plan was to go into the bouncing castle and into the ball pool afterwards, but unfortunately they're only for children...</span></div>
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<u><b>Dienstag, 24. Dezember:</b></u><br />
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Sonnenaufgang über der Dachterrasse. Etwas später erreichen Sara und Pedro Guadalajara, damit sind wir 15 jetzt komplett!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sunrise over the roof terrace. A little bit later, Sara and Pedro arrive in Guadalajara, so now there's all 15 of us here!</span></div>
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Dave und ich machen eine Erkundungs- und Weihnachtseinkaufstour durch die zweitgrößte Stadt Mexikos (8 Millionen Einwohner). Gleich hinter "unserm" Haus ist diese katholische Kirche, el Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, erbaut 1777-1781. Leider findet die Christmette hier erst um 21 Uhr statt, und ohne Chor - da schauen wir mal weiter...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I go exploring and Christmas shopping in the second largest city of Mexico (8 million people). Just behind "our" house, there's this catholic church, el Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, built from 1777 to 1781. Unfortunately, the Christmas service won't start before 9 o'clock, and there won't be a choir, so we keep looking...</span><br />
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... zur Kathedrale von Guadalajara. Die liegt zwar eine halbe Stunde Fußmarsch entfernt, aber die Christmette beginnt hier schon um 20 Uhr, und die Generalprobe der beiden Organisten lässt auf einen sehr festlichen Gottesdienst hoffen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and eventually get to the cathedral of Guadalajara. It's a thirty minute walk there but the Christmas mass starts at eight o'clock, and the final rehearsal of the two organists promise it to be a very festive service.</span><br />
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Das Kripperl ist noch leer, aber die Hl. Drei Könige sind schon da.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Nativity scene without baby Jesus - but the three wise men are there already.</span><br />
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Einzug der Priester und des Bischofs von Guadalajara<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Entry of the priests and the bishop of Guadalajara</span><br />
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Chorgesang, einer Kathedrale angemessen. Da geht einem das Herz auf!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This choir's singing is appropriate for a cathedral, it just opens your heart!</span><br />
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Anschließend beginnt die große Feier mit Alexas Familie, die uns arbeits- und obdachlose Radwanderer so einfach bei sich aufgenommen hat: Alexa und Paul (die Tandemfahrer) beenden hier ihre Tour, Sara und Pedro, Erin und Rigel, Maggie und Bryan, Justin, Peter, Steve, Dave und ich fahren nächste Woche weiter Richtung Südamerika und Torii und Paul wollen Mexiko noch eine Weile unsicher machen. Prost und frohe Weihnachten!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Afterwards, we celebrate Christmas with Alexa's family who invited us unemployed and homeless cyclists into their house: Alexa and Paul (the tandem couple) finish their tour here, Sara and Pedro, Erin and Rigel, Maggie and Bryan, Justin, Peter, Steve, Dave and I are going to continue towards South America next week, and Torii and Paul want to stay in Mexico for a while still. Cheers and Merry Christmas!</span><br />
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Im Innenhof steht ein Partyzelt für etwa 40 Leute.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the courtyard, there's a party tent for about 40 people.</span><br />
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Dave schenkt mir diese Blumenohrstecker und ein neues Reisekissen, und er bekommt ein Pfund seines geliebten Starbuckskaffees, den ich heimlich importiert habe.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">I get these flower ear studs and a new travel pillow from Dave, and he gets a pound of his beloved Starbucks coffee which I've imported secretly.</span><br />
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Es ist schon weit nach Mitternacht, als Alexas Vater Dave bittet, seine Sitar rauszuholen und den schönen Abend mit Livemusik abzurunden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's already way past midnight when Alexa's Dad asks Dave to bring his Sitar downstairs and round this wonderful evening off with live music.</span><br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 25. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Pedro zaubert für alle Frühstück, ich bin die Küchenmagd.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Pedro cooks breakfast for everybody, I'm the kitchen maid.</span><br />
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Der ganze Tag steht im Zeichen von Ausschlafen, Aufräumen, nach Hause Skypen und Bananagrams Spielen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We spend all Christmas Day sleeping in, tidying up, skyping with our families and playing Bananagrams.</span><br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 26. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Abschied von Alexas Familie<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Saying goodbye to Alexa's family</span><br />
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Gruppenfoto (leider ohne Paul und Torii)<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Group picture (without Paul and Torii)</span><br />
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Alexas Eltern, Großvater, Schwester und Schwager<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Alexa's parents, grand father, sister and brother in law</span><br />
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Ab hier trennen sich unsere Wege. Zum ersten Mal, seit Dave und ich Calgary verlassen haben, stehen wir jetzt vor der Frage: "Wo soll's langgehen?". Bisher hatten wir nie die Wahl, es gab immer nur eine Straße in die gewünschte Richtung. Mexiko dagegen ist ein riesiges Land mit tausenden von Touristenzielen und den entsprechenden Wegen dorthin, wir müssen uns wohl oder übel entscheiden und eine Route ausdenken.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">From here on, we all go separate ways. For the very first time since we left Calgary, Dave and I ask ourselves "Which way are we going?". So far, we never had a choice as there was always only one road south. Mexico though is a huge country with thousands of tourist destinations and the ways there, so we have to decide now and think of a route.</span><br />
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Erstmal geht's zu unserem nächsten Quartier in Guadalajara, einem "Casa Ciclista", also einem Haus für Fahrradfahrer. Hier wollen wir warten, bis der Regen aufhört, und auch an den Fahrrädern arbeiten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">First of all, we ride to our next host in Guadalajara, a "Casa Ciclista" - a house for cyclists. We want to hang out here until the rain stops and also work on the bikes a bit.</span><br />
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Bernardo und Jorge betreiben hier eine Fahrradwerkstatt, was sehr praktisch ist für jeden, der auf seiner Fahrradtour nicht viel Werkzeug mitschleppen will.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Bernardo and Jorge run a bicycle workshop here, which is really handy for every cyclist who doesn't want to cart around tons of tools on their tour.</span><br />
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Die neuen Sättel haben wir ja gleich in La Paz montiert, jetzt folgt der Rest. Pedale und Lenkergriffe für mich, Hinternabe und Kassette für Dave.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In La Paz, we already mounted our new saddles on the bikes, now the rest follows. Pedals and handles for me, rear hub and cassette for Dave.</span><br />
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Bici, die Hausherrin.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Bici, the head of the Casa Ciclista.</span><br />
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Stilvoll und gemütlich hatten wir gestern, hier geht's eher junggesellenartig-pragmatisch zu. Aber wir haben ein kostenloses Dach überm Kopf und lernen wieder neue Tourenradler kennen (Brendon aus Irland und Sydney aus der Schweiz) - was will man mehr?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Style and comfort was yesterday, now we reside more bachelorlike and pragmatic. But we've got a place to stay for free and we meet a couple of new touring cyclists again (Brendon from Ireland and Sydney from Switzerland) - what more do we need?</span><br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 27. Dezember:</u></b><br />
Heute regnet es ununterbrochen. Dave und ich raffen uns auf und fahren zu einem Fahrradladen, der angeblich Lederwachs für unsere Sättel führt. Als wir dort ankommen, sind wir von Kopf bis Fuß vollgespritzt mit Dreckwasser von der Straße, und der Laden ist geschlossen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today it rains constantly. Dave and I pull ourselves up and ride to a bike shop that's supposed to carry leather wax for our saddles. When we arrive there we are drenched in dirty water from the road, and the shop is closed.</span><br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 28. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Stadtspaziergang mit Brendon und Sydney.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Walk around downtown with Brendon and Sydney.</span><br />
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In jeder Kirche, an der wir vorbeikommen, findet gerade eine Trauung statt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There's a wedding ceremony going on in every church we pass.</span><br />
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Riesiges Wandgemälde mit lebensgroßer, plastischer Kuh.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Gigantic mural with life-sized, three-dimensional cow.</span><br />
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Der Besuch dieser gigantischen Markthalle, dem Mercado San Juan de Dios, gehört ebenfalls zum Touristenprogramm in Guadalajara. Ein Gewurl herrscht hier, das ist nicht in Worte zu fassen. Schade auch, dass Geräusche und Gerüche nicht fotografiert werden können!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Visiting this huge market hall, the Mercado San Juan de Dios, is a must as a tourist in Guadalajara. The hustle and bustle in here is beyond words. Also, it's a pity that I cannot describe smells and sounds with pictures!</span><br />
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Es fängt relativ harmlos an mit Süßigkeiten, Schmuck und Aufklebern...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It all starts relatively harmless with candy, jewelry and stickers...</span><br />
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... und geht dann ohne Vorwarnung über zu den Metzgerständen. Da hätte ich gern noch mehr fotografiert, aber mein empfindlicher Geruchssinn hat es nicht zugelassen. Von Kuh- und Schweinefüßen, Darm in allen Größen, Farben und Formen bis hin zu Hühnerhaut kann man hier alles kaufen, was einmal an einem Viech dran war.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and suddenly moves on to the butchers' stands without warning. I would've loved to take more pictures there but my sensitive nose wouldn't let me. You can buy everything here that used to be part of an animal, from cows' and pigs' feet, intestines in different sizes, colours and shapes to chicken skin.</span><br />
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Was ich jetzt erst auf dem Foto bemerke: Das Schneidebrett liegt auf einem Stapel Eierkartons. Aus ergonomischer Sicht bestimmt eine hilfreiche Maßnahme, aber aus hygienischer??<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's only now that I see in the picture that the chopping board is resting on a pile of egg cartons. From an ergonomic point of view that's probably a good measure but what about food hygiene??</span><br />
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Auch lebende Tiere kann man kaufen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">They also sell live animals.</span><br />
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Man sieht sogar Handwerksbetriebe wie diesen Messerschleifer hier.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">You even get to watch craftsmen at work like this knife sharpener.</span><br />
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Es gibt Lederwaren wie Sättel, Stiefel, Gürtel und Taschen, billige Markenkopien namhafter Schuh- und Bekleidungshersteller, haufenweise Sombreros natürlich, Uhren, Gewürze, Kinderspielzeug, elektronische Geräte, Videos, Brillen, Musikinstrumente... 2980 Stände auf 4000 Quadratmetern Grundfläche (drei Stockwerke). Der Wahnsinn! Eine Stunde in dem Chaos und man fühlt sich wie erschlagen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There are leather articles like saddles, boots, belts and bags, cheap copies of big shoe- and clothing brands, heaps of Sombreros of course, watches, spices, toys, electronics, movies, glasses, musical instruments... 2980 stands on 4000 square metres (three floors). It's insane! After one hour in this chaos you feel like you got hit by a truck.</span><br />
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Blick auf die Obst- und Gemüseauswahl von oben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View over the fruit- and vegetable stands from above.</span><br />
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Und natürlich mangelt es auch nicht an landestypischen und internationalen Fressbuden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And of course there's no lack in local and international food.</span><br />
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Appetitanregende Präsentation, nicht wahr?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Nicely presented too, eh?</span><br />
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Vor dem Klo: Die Frau kassiert den Eintritt, der Mann portioniert das Klopapier vor und reicht es dem Kunden, und die Tochter gschaftelt auch irgendwie mit. Kein Wunder, dass es in Mexiko nur zwischen drei und fünf Prozent Arbeitslose gibt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In front of the toilet: The woman collects the fee, the man makes little toilet paper portions and hands them to the customer, and the daughter also busies herself in the operations. No wonder the unemployment rate in Mexico only ranges somewhere between three and five percent.</span><br />
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<b>Seit zwei Wochen sind wir jetzt schon nicht mehr Fahrrad gefahren, abgesehen von den kurzen Strecken innerhalb der Städte La Paz, Mazatlán und Guadalajara. Es juckt uns ganz schön in den Pedalen und wir freuen uns darauf, bald wieder vorwärts zu kommen!</b><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><b>It's been two weeks off the bikes now, not counting the short rides within La Paz, Mazatlán and Guadalajara. We've got itchy feet now and we're really looking forward to making some progress again!</b></span></div>
Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com1Guadalajara, JAL, Mexico20.67359 -103.3438029999999820.4358915 -103.66652649999997 20.9112885 -103.02107949999998tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-5387603933558151732013-12-20T05:38:00.002-08:002013-12-27T08:50:22.822-08:00Baja California Sur (Südniederkalifornien)<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Dienstag, 26. November:</u></b></div>
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Unsere Erklärung: Sechs Ecken waren billiger als acht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our explanation: Six corners were cheaper than eight.</span><br />
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Es weihnachtet sehr in Guerrero Negro. Komisch bei T-Shirt-Wetter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Holidays are coming... Feels weird though when it's warm enough to wear a t-shirt.</span><br />
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Wir feiern Bryans Geburtstag im Puerto Viejo, einem Stripclub mit Fischrestaurant. Sehr empfehlenswert, zumindest was das Essen betrifft! Wobei wir nicht genau wissen, ob wir einen Oktopus- oder einen Hexapuscocktail bekommen haben!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">We celebrate Bryan's birthday in the Puerto Viejo, a strip club with seafood restaurant. Highly recommendable, at least as far as the food goes! Not sure though if we got an octopus or a hexapus cocktail...</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 73 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,96 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: Ballinas Hotel in Guerrero Negro</div>
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 27. November:</u></b></div>
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Wir verbringen den ganzen Tag in Guerrero Negro: Ausschlafen, Blog schreiben, Wäsche waschen, einkaufen, Fahrräder putzen... In der Wäscherei lernen wir Marion und Virgile aus Frankreich kennen, doch die beiden fahren heute schon wieder weiter. Angeblich tummeln sich aber noch mehr Radreisende in der Stadt, da sind wir ja mal gespannt! Und tatsächlich: Als wir am Abend in diesem Tacostand aufkreuzen, sitzen Erin und Rigel bereits mit den Tandemfahrern Paul und Alexa aus Minnesota zusammen!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">We spend all day in Guerrero Negro: Sleeping in, writing the blog, washing laundry, buying groceries, cleaning the bikes... In the laundromat, we get to know Marion and Virgile from France, but they are leaving town right away. Rumour has it though that there's a whole bunch of cyclists here today, that's exciting! And really: When we turn up at this taco stand in the evening, Erin and Rigel are already sitting at a table with the tandem couple from Minnesota, Paul and Alexa.</span></div>
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 28. November:</u></b><br />
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Von Guerrero Negro aus führt die Carretera kerzengerade Richtung Osten. Wir kommen zwar zügig voran, aber aufregend ist dieser Abschnitt nicht unbedingt. Bis wir auf Bryan, Maggie und Justin stoßen, die im Straßengraben hocken und geheimnisvolle Früchte essen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After Guerrero Negro, the Carretera heads straight east which makes for a fast and easy ride but it's really boring. Until we catch Bryan, Maggie and Justin sitting in the ditch eating some mysterious fruits.</span><br />
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Pitayas, die stachligen Früchte einer Kaktusart, sind mit Drachenfrüchten verwandt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Pitayas are a spiky kind of cactus fruit, related to dragon fruits.</span><br />
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Die Ernte ist etwas schmerzhaft, doch bald haben wir den Dreh raus!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Harvesting them turns out to be quite painful but after a while we get the hang of it!</span><br />
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Zuerst schabt man die Stacheln mit einem Messer ab...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Shave off the spikes with a knife...</span><br />
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... dann kann man die Früchte halbieren und mit einem Löffel essen, ähnlich wie eine Kiwi. Der Geschmack erinnert an rote Grütze und Apfel. Wir sind total begeistert und nehmen ein paar Pitayas mit!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and then cut the fruit in halves and eat the inside with a spoon, similar to a kiwi. It sort of tastes like red berries and apples. We love them and take a few Pitayas with us!</span><br />
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Während ich am Abend koche, übt Dave Mandoline. Nach und nach ziehen die anderen samt Sitzgelegenheiten und Essgeschirr vor unser Zelt...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">While I'm cooking dinner, Dave practices the mandolin. One after the other, our fellow campers move in front of our tent with their chairs and cooking gear...</span><br />
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... und schließlich in unser Zelt. Alle neun passen rein, und wir ratschen und blödeln noch lange nach dem Essen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and eventually end up in our tent. All nine of us fit inside, and we chat and joke around for a long time after dinner.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 81,45 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,73 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: abseits der Carretera hinter Vizcaino (Cactus camp IV.)<br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 29. November:</u></b><br />
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Beim Zeltabbau kommt dieser Skorpion zum Vorschein. Mit seinen nur zwei Zentimetern Länge echt schwer zu sehen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This scorpion has been sleeping underneath Paul and Alexa's tent last night. It's hard to see because it's only two centimetres long.</span><br />
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Ankunft in San Ignacio, einer Oase zwischen Vizcaino und Santa Rosalia. Was für ein schöner Ort! Überall Dattelpalmen und Enten, angenehme Luft und: Schatten. Erst jetzt fällt uns auf, dass wir schon lange keinen Schatten von Bäumen mehr hatten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We arrive in San Ignacio, an oasis between Vizcaino and Santa Rosalia. What a beautiful place! Date palms and ducks everywhere, pleasant air and: shade. It's only now that we realize that it has been a long time since we actually had shadow from trees.</span><br />
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Europäisches Flair im Ortszentrum: Diese Kirche ist Teil der 1728 gegründeten Jesuitenmission.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">European flair in the town centre: This church belongs to the mission from 1728.</span><br />
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Hier gibt es sogar einen gemütlichen Stadtplatz mit Eisdiele!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There's even a nice town square with an ice cream parlour!</span><br />
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Das haben wir uns verdient!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We totally deserve this!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 70 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 18,5 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Manuels Campingplatz direkt an der Lagune (ein Traum!)<br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 30. November:</u></b><br />
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Ruhetag in San Ignacio. Manuel hat uns schon erzählt, dass fast jeden Tag Fahrradtouristen hier sind, aber heute brechen wir mit 15 Leuten alle Rekorde. Paul hat uns in Cataviña abgehängt, doch wir finden ihn hier wieder, weil er gestern krank war. Marion und Virgile haben uns in Guerrero Negro abgehängt, doch mussten hier ebenfalls einen Tag Pause einlegen, weil sie Leitungswasser getrunken haben. Am Nachmittag lernen wir Peter aus Seattle kennen, und etwas später kommen Mathias und Torii dazu.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Rest day in San Ignacio. We've learned from the campground host that there are bicyclists coming through every day, but today we break the records with 15 people. Paul had gotten ahead of us in Cataviña but he's here now after a sick day yesterday. Marion and Virgile had gotten ahead of us in Guerrero Negro but also had to extend their layover here after drinking tap water. In the afternoon, we get to know Peter from Seattle, and later Mathias and Torii catch up with us.</span></div>
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Frischer Pitaya-Limes. Prost!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Maggie and Bryan serve their homemade Pitaya Margarita. Cheers!</span><br />
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Wir sitzen alle gemütlich in der Gemeinschaftshütte zusammen und ratschen, als wir Lust auf ein paar frische Datteln bekommen. Zuerst pflücken die Jungs nur ein paar Handvoll von einer niedrigen Palme.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We all hang out in the community hut when we crave a few fresh dates. First, the guys just grab a couple of hand fulls from a low palm tree.</span><br />
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Doch die sind noch viel zu hart und gelb. Was tun?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">But they're too hard and yellow still. What to do?</span><br />
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Auf einmal hören wir Justins Stimme von irgendwo hoch über unseren Köpfen: "He, kann mir mal jemand mein Messer hochwerfen?"<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Suddenly, we hear Justin's voice from somewhere above our heads: "Hey, can someone throw me my knife?"</span><br />
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Ab da wird aus der Handvoll Datteln ein Großprojekt...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">From then on, the handful of dates turns into a huge project...</span><br />
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... mit überragendem Ergebnis!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... with great success!</span><br />
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Am Abend sitzen wir immer noch um unsere Datteln rum und naschen, als Dave seine Mandoline rausholt. Ich folge mit der Melodika, Mathias mit seiner Gitalele, Torii schleppt einen leeren 100-Liter-Wasserkanister an und trommelt drauf, Peter verwandelt seine Metalltasse in Kuhglocken, Alexa rasselt mit ihrer Müslipackung und Justin kaut seine Chips im Takt. Ohne Schmarrn, mehr Gaudi passt wohl kaum in einen Ruhetag!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the evening, we're still sitting around our dates nibbling and chatting, when Dave grabs his mandolin from the tent. I follow him with my melodica, Mathias with his guitalele, Torii finds an empty 100-litre water tank somewhere and turns it into a sitdrum, Peter plays cowbells on his metal mug, Alexa shakes her granola bag and Justin chews his chips to the beat. Oh my god, it would be hard to fit more fun into one rest day!</span><br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 1. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Erst die Arbeit, dann das Vergnügen: Auf der Fahrt nach Santa Rosalia kämpfen wir gegen starken Wind und Steigungen von bis zu 12 %. <br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">A German saying goes: "First you work, then you enjoy yourself." It's totally true today: On our way to Santa Rosalia we fight against a really strong headwind and some 12 % climbs.</span><br />
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Doch dieses Warnschild verspricht die lang ersehnte und wohl verdiente Abfahrt zur Küste!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">But this traffic sign finally announces the hard earned downhill to the coast!</span><br />
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Leitplanken Fehlanzeige, Gottvertrauen ist angesagt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">People around here have more trust in god than in guard rails.</span><br />
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Das ist nicht das einzige Marterl an dieser Strecke.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And this is not the only memorial along this road.</span><br />
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Und endlich der erste Blick auf den Golf von Kalifornien, auf den wir uns so sehr gefreut haben! Die Begeisterung wird allerdings sehr schnell gedämpft, als wir uns der schwarzen Rauchwolke (rechts im Bild) nähern und feststellen müssen, dass es sich um eine riesige Müllverbrennungs-"Anlage" (eher ein überdimendionales offenes Feuer) direkt am Meer handelt. Toll.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This is the moment we've been looking forward to for so long, the first glimpse of the Sea of Cortez (Gulf of California). Our enthusiasm gets choked right away though, as we approach the black cloud of smoke (on the right) and realize that there's a huge garbage plant (an overdimensional open fire) right next to the ocean. It's awful.</span><br />
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Santa Rosalia empfängt uns mit apokalyptischem Charme, doch eine einheimische Autofahrerin erkennt unsere Situation und lotst uns zu einem Strandabschnitt am anderen Ende der Stadt, wo wir kostenlos campieren können. Puh!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Santa Rosalia welcomes us as friendly as the apocalypse, but a local woman takes pity on us and drives slowly to a beach just south of town where we can camp for free. Phew!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 81,9 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 14,62 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Strand südlich von Santa Rosalia (Beach camp I.)<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 2. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Blick auf Santa Rosalia vor Sonnenaufgang. Während des Tages ist es schlicht unmöglich, ein wohlwollendes Foto von dieser Stadt zu machen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Looking back to Santa Rosalia just before sunrise. During the day, it's impossible to take a flattering picture of this town.</span><br />
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Frühaufsteher<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Early birds</span><br />
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Langschläfer<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Late riser</span><br />
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Innerhalb der ersten 800 Meter flickt Dave heute viermal den Anhängerreifen, bevor es ihm zu blöd wird und er einen neuen Schlauch auspackt. Danach geht alles rund...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Within the first 800 metres Dave patches his trailer tire four times before he has enough and puts a new tube in. Afterwards, everything runs smoothly...</span><br />
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Erster Blick auf Mulegé.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">First glimpse of Mulegé.</span><br />
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Nein, das ist kein Dreck. Daves Teint wäre ebenfalls sehr unterhaltsam, aber der lässt sich ums Verrecken nicht fotografieren.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">No, this is not dirt. You should see Dave's tan but he refuses to have his picture taken.</span></div>
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Abendspaziergang / Nahrungssuche<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Looking for something to eat in the evening.</span><br />
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Wir finden diesen Stand mit Meeresfrüchten, der eigentlich schon geschlossen ist. Aber als die Besitzer unsere achtköpfige Mannschaft sehen, klappen sie kurzerhand die Plastiktische wieder auseinander und drücken Bryan eine Glühbirne in die Hand, die soll er bitte da oben reindrehen. Fertig.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We find this seafood stand which is already closed for the night. But when the owners see our group of eight people they spontaneously unfold the plastic tables again and ask Bryan to screw the light bulb back into the fixture up there. Ready.</span><br />
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Meeresfrüchtecocktail mit Tintenfisch, Muscheln, Schnecken, Garnelen und was weiß ich noch. Daves Gesicht sagt mehr als tausend Worte!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Seafood cocktail with octopus, scallops, snails, prawns and who knows what. Dave's face says more than a thousand words!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 62,31 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,92 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hacienda Hotel in Mulege<br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 3. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Im Innenhof unseres Hotels steht dieser Grapefruitbaum, an dem wir uns bedienen dürfen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the courtyard of our hotel, there's this grapefruit tree we can help ourselves from.</span><br />
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Schon allein der Duft ist unbeschreiblich. Das nenne ich mal ein gesundes Frühstück und einen tollen Start in den Tag!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The smell alone is incredible. This is what I call a healthy breakfast and a great start into the day!</span><br />
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Erin malt den Innenhof. Gut zu wissen, dass auch andere Leute Dinge mitschleppen, die für eine Fahrradtour nicht unbedingt praktisch sind, aber das Leben angenehmer machen. (Weitere Beispiele für solche "Luxusartikel": Strohhut, Harpune oder Angel, Rock oder Kleid, professionelle Filmausrüstung, Buch, Klappstuhl, Gitarre, Laptop, Fernglas, Wanderschuhe...)<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Erin is painting the courtyard. Good to know that other cyclists also carry around stuff that's not necessarily handy on a bicycle tour but pleasant to have. (More examples for "luxury items": straw hat, spear gun or fishing rod, dress or skirt, professional filming gear, book, folding chair, guitar, laptop, binoculars, hiking boots...) </span><br />
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Dieser Gehsteig ergibt sich der Gewalt von Daves Faustschlag. Pauls fachmännischer Kommentar: "Das entspricht nicht dem Standard."<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This sidewalk surrenders to Dave's strong fist. Paul's expert opinion: "This is NOT code."</span><br />
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Zu diesem idyllischen Spazierweg gelangen wir...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We reach this idyllic walking path...</span><br />
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... über diese Leiter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... via this ladder.</span><br />
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Architekt Paul und Gerüstbauer Justin sind fassungslos.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Paul the architect and Justin the scaffolder are in shocked amazement.</span><br />
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Inmitten einer Oase, nicht weit von der Küste entfernt, entdecken wir die Mission von Mulegé.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the middle of an oasis not too far from the coast, we discover the mission of Mulegé.</span><br />
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Die Bauarbeiter, die gerade den Innenraum der Kirche renovieren, lassen uns überall rumschnüffeln.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The construction workers who are renovating the inside of the church don't seem to mind us snooping around.</span><br />
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Und bevor wir wissen, wie uns geschieht, stehen wir auf dem Dach. Ohne Geländer natürlich.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And before we know it we're standing on the roof. No railings of course.</span><br />
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Feierabend im Hotel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Relaxing in the hotel.</span></div>
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Abendessen in Mulegé.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dinner in Mulegé.</span><br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 4. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Der Leitspruch für die nächsten paar Tage: Geschwindigkeit reduzieren! Und zwar an diesem Strand in der Bahia de Concepcion, dem schönsten Teil des Golfs von Kalifornien. Wir haben für drei Tage Essen und Trinkwasser dabei, mal schauen, wie lang wir es hier aushalten...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The motto for the next few days: reduce your speed! We take it literally and camp on this beach in the Bahia de Concepcion, the most beautiful part of the Sea of Cortez. Our food and water supplies should last us three days, we'll see how long we can hold out here...</span><br />
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Frisch aus dem Meer: alle erdenklichen undefinierbaren Schalentiere.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Fresh from the ocean: all sorts of mysterious shellfish.</span><br />
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Im Lagerfeuer geröstet, ein wunderbares Abendessen für die einen, und zumindest ein interessantes Experiment für die anderen. Ich belasse es beim Zuschauen...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Cooked in the campfire, they're a wonderful dinner for some of us, or at least an interesting experience for the others. I only watch...</span><br />
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Keiner weiß so genau, was das ist, aber nachdem Rigel eins der Dinger roh gegessen und überlebt hat, trauen sich die meisten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Nobody really knows what this is, but after Rigel ate one of these things raw and didn't die, the majority of our group dares to try them.</span><br />
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Paul ganz vornehm mit Messer und Gabel :-)<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Paul very classy with knife and fork :-)</span><br />
Randnotiz: In der Nacht sehe ich Dave zum ersten Mal in vier Jahren kotzen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Passing reference: In the middle of the night I get to see Dave puking for the first time in four years.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 25,32 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 15,73 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Marcos zukünftiger Campingplatz (Beachcamp II.)<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 5. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Dave ist noch ein bisschen schwach auf den Beinen, hat aber Appetit. Auch in ein paar anderen Bäuchen grummelt es gewaltig heute, doch die meisten sind wohlauf.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave feels a little bit weak today but has enough appetite for breakfast. There are a couple of bellies grumbling a lot today but most people are just fine.</span><br />
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Blick aus unserem Zelt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View from our tent.</span><br />
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Über den Strandabschnitt verteilt liegen Bretter, aus denen Marco ein paar Hütten für seine zukünftigen Campinggäste bauen will. Die können wir sehr gut als Küchenmöbel brauchen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There are lots of boards laying around on the beach which Marco wants to build huts out of for his future camping guests. We use them as kitchen furniture.</span><br />
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Blick auf unser Beachcamp während meiner morgendlichen Runde Schwimmen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our beach camp the way I see it during my morning round of swimming.</span><br />
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Wer kennt noch die Bommern Maria mit ihrem VW Bus? Genauso aufgeregt wie damals als Kinder springen wir auf, als am späten Vormittag ein Pickup an unseren Strand kommt, die Ladefläche voller Gemüse, Eier, Meeresfrüchte, Gebäck usw.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the late morning, a pickup truck drives up to "our" beach with the back full of vegetables, eggs, seafood, pastries and so on.</span><br />
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Mit Plastikcampingtellern kann man wunderbar Frisbee spielen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Plastic camping plates are awesome to play frisbee with!</span><br />
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Das Thema streifenfreie Bräune kann ich für dieses Jahr knicken, glaub ich.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">I think I'm going to skip the idea of not having tan lines this year.</span><br />
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Am Nachmittag kommt der Bäcker mit noch warmen Käse- und Jalapeñobroten und Zimtschnecken. Im Geiste verlängern wir bereits unsern Aufenthalt hier...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the afternoon, the baker comes with cheese- and jalapeño bread and cinnamon buns that are still warm. We already picture ourselves staying here forever...</span><br />
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Am Abend geht es Dave wieder besser. Untertags sind heute noch Ben aus Australien und Patrick aus Kanada dazugekommen, mit dem gestrigen Neuzugang Paul aus England (sprich Poool) und den üblichen Verdächtigen Maggie und Bryan, Erin und Rigel, Alexa und Paul, Justin und Peter sind wir mal wieder dreizehn Leute.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave feels better by the evening. During the day, Ben from Australia and Patrick from Canada joined us, and with yesterday's newbie Paul from England (pronounced Pole) and the usual suspects Maggie and Bryan, Erin and Rigel, Alexa and Paul, Justin and Peter we're thirteen people again.</span><br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 6. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Gemüselieferung in der Früh.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Vegetable delivery in the morning.</span><br />
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Geschirr spülen am Strand: Erst mit feuchtem Sand den groben Schmutz entfernen, ...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Washing dishes on the beach: First, you scrub the dirt off with wet sand...</span><br />
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... dann im Meer ausspülen, fertig.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... then you rinse them in the ocean, done.</span><br />
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Etwa einen Kilometer von unserem Zeltplatz entfernt ist eine Thermalquelle, in der es sich schön entspannen lässt. Vor allem Bryan und Maggie schätzen das warme Wasser, nachdem sie leicht unterkühlt von ihrem Fischfang im Meer zurückgekommen sind!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Just one kilometre from our camp spot, there are some hot springs which are just perfect to relax in. Bryan and Maggie love the warm water after coming back from fishing in the ocean slightly hypothermic.</span><br />
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Das kleine Restaurant am Strand schmeißt heute eine Party - wir sind dabei!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The little restaurant on the beach organizes a party tonight - we're in!</span><br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 7. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Sonnenaufgang vom Zelt aus.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Watching the sunrise from our tent.</span><br />
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Frühstück in der Bretterküche.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Cooking breakfast in the board kitchen.</span><br />
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Wer sagt, dass Radlfahrer stinken? Alexa, Paul und Dave beim Duschen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Who says that cyclists smell bad? Alexa, Paul and Dave having a shower.</span><br />
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Heute löst sich die Gruppe auf, denn einigen pressiert es nach den vielen Ruhetagen weiterzukommen, während andere sogar noch länger bleiben. Dave und ich fahren allein weiter - schön gemütlich hinter den Rennsemmeln.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today our big group dissolves because after all those rest days some of us are in a hurry to move on while others even stay at the beach for a while longer. Dave and I ride by ourselves again - nice and slowly behind the fast guys.</span><br />
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Es geht südwärts Richtung Loreto an der Bahia de Conception entlang. Wie gesagt: Es ist der schönste Teil des Golfs von Kalifornien!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We follow the Bahia de Concepcion south towards Loreto. As I've mentioned before, it's the most beautiful part of the Gulf of California!</span><br />
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An dieser Straßenbaustelle drückt uns ein Arbeiter zwei Steckerleis in die Hand. Da sagen wir nicht nein!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At this construction site, a worker hands us two popsicles as we're riding through. We won't say no to that!</span><br />
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Die ersten 50 Kilometer sind harte Arbeit, aber der Blick hinunter auf die Bahia de Concepcion lässt uns die Strampelei ganz vergessen. Irgendwann wird das Gelände flacher und wir verlassen die schöne Bucht. Zeit um ein geeignetes Fleckchen für unser Zelt zu suchen! Es ist die erste Nacht seit über zwei Wochen, die Dave und ich allein verbringen - irgendwie seltsam, aber wir genießen die Freiheit und die Ruhe.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The first 50 kilometres are hard work, but looking down on the Bahia de Concepcion we totally forget our legs. At some point the terrain gets more flat and we say goodbye to the beautiful bay. Time to look for a good camp spot! It's the first night in over two weeks that Dave and I spend alone - it feels weird in a way, but we enjoy the freedom and the quiet.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 79 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 15,21 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: in einem Feld an der Straße (Cactus Camp V.)<br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 8. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Geier sieht man hier überall. Ganz schön makaber, wenn sie über uns kreisen, während wir superlangsam einen steilen Berg hinaufschnaufen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Turkey vultures are everywhere here. It's always a bit macabre when they're circling above us while we're slowly working ourselves up a steep hill!</span><br />
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Auf der Fahrt nach Loreto halten wir an einem kleinen Geschäft, wir brauchen was Erfrischendes bei 29 Grad. Hinter dem Tresen schaut ein etwa siebenjähriges Mädchen, dick eingepackt in ihren Dezemberpullover, hervor und kann es nicht glauben, dass wir in T-Shirt und kurzer Hose rumlaufen: "Ist euch denn nicht kalt?"<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On our way to Loreto we stop at a little shop because we need something refreshing in 29 degrees. A little girl, maybe seven years old and wearing her thick december jumper, looks at our t-shirts and shorts in disbelief and goes: "Aren't you cold?"</span><br />
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In Loreto angekommen, stellen wir fest, dass es Sonntag ist und der Waschsalon, den wir so dringend nötig haben, geschlossen ist. Doch die Hotelbesitzerin lässt uns ihre Waschmaschine benutzen. Sehr gut, so können wir hoffentlich morgen schon weiterfahren. Die Sonne geht gerade unter, und der Waschgang ist noch nicht ganz fertig, da zeigt die Frau in den Hinterhof und sagt: "Und danach kannst du deine Sachen hier zum Trocknen aufhängen."<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When we arrive in Loreto we realize it's Sunday today, which means the laundromat we so desperately need is closed. But the hotel owner allows me to use her washer, so hopefully we can move on tomorrow. The sun is setting, and the laundry is not quite done yet when the woman points into the back yard and says: "And afterwards you can hang your stuff here to dry it."</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 42 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,32 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: San Martin Hotel in Loreto.<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 9. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Die Wäsche ist weder sauber noch trocken, deshalb bringen wir sie jetzt doch in die Wäscherei.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our laundry is neither clean nor dry so we bring it to the laundromat anyway.</span><br />
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Da wir schon mal den ganzen Tag hier sind, erledigen Dave und ich gleich noch ein paar Besorgungen. In einem Baumarkt und Malergeschäft finden wir Brennstoff für unsere beiden Campingkocher. Für meinen Trangia-Spiritusbrenner erwerbe ich diese Flasche "alcohol industrial", Zusammensetzung und Alkoholgehalt ungewiss. Wird schon brennen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As we're stuck here for the day Dave and I get a few organizational things done. We find fuel for both our camp stoves in a hardware- and paint store. For my Trangia alcohol burner I get this bottle of "alcohol industrial", whose exact contents and alcohol percentage is unknown. Hope it'll burn.</span><br />
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Bei genauerem Hinsehen entdecke ich diese Gravur in der Glasflasche: "Salsa Picante" - scharfe Soße.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Looking at the glass bottle more closely, I discover the engraved words "Salsa Picante" - hot sauce.</span><br />
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Außerdem rufen wir von einer Telefonzelle aus mal ganz unverbindlich bei UPS an um nachzufragen, wo unser Paket mit den Fahrradteilen ist, die wir neulich bestellt haben. Oh Mann! Das Zeug liegt im Zollamt, denn das Lederwachs für unsere neuen Sättel braucht eine spezielle Einfuhrgenehmigung, und die dauert zwei bis drei Monate. Wir schlagen der kaum Englisch sprechenden Dame, die für die englischsprachigen Kunden zuständig ist, vor, die Wachsdose einfach wegzuwerfen und uns den Rest zu schicken. Ja, das kann sie tun, aber dazu braucht sie unsere schriftliche Einverständniserklärung. Sie kann uns eine E-mail mit dem Formular schicken, das sollen wir online ausfüllen und ihr zurückschicken. Okay. Das Buchstabieren der E-mail-Adresse dauert etwa eine Viertelstunde, aber irgendwann hat sie's.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Other than that, we also call UPS from a phone box in the street just to ask where our package with the bike parts we ordered the other day is. Oh man! It's stuck in customs because we need a special import licence for the leather wax we ordered for our new saddles. That would take about two to three months. We suggest to the lady in charge of English speaking customers who actually doesn't speak English very well, to just throw the wax tin into the bin and send us the rest. Yes, she could do that, but she needs our abandonment approval in written form. She can send us an e-mail with the form, we just have to fill it out online and send it back to her. Okay. Spelling the e-mail address takes about 15 minutes but finally she's got it.</span><br />
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Auch trotz unserer Anspannung des Päckchens wegen genießen wir die Schönheit Loretos!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We appreciate Loreto's beauty despite our tension because of the package!</span><br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 10. Dezember:</u></b><br />
Eigentlich wollten wir spätestens heute weiterfahren, doch die Dame vom Zoll hat sich über Nacht eine neue Schikane für uns ausgedacht: Die Einverständniserklärung zum Entsorgen unseres Lederwachses (wir sprechen hier von einer kleinen Dose Bienenwachs im Wert von 17 Dollar, also vergleichsweise lächerlich zu den über 1000 Dollar teuren anderen Sachen in der Schachtel) muss jetzt plötzlich ausgedruckt, unterschrieben, eingescannt und per E-mail zurückgeschickt werden. Und zwar bis morgen um 12 Uhr, sonst geht das Paket auf unsere Kosten zurück an den Absender. Ja herzlichen Dank auch! In unserem Hotel gibt es zwar Internet, aber weder Drucker noch Scanner - genauso wie in den meisten Internetcafés hier. Und in der Druckerei haben wir keinen Internetzugang. Es wird wieder mal eine längere Odyssee kreuz und quer durch die Stadt, aber schließlich bekommen wir alles geregelt. Puh!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We had planned to leave Loreto today at the latest but over night, the lady from the customs office has thought of a new way to harass us: The abandonment approval for our leather wax (we're talking about a little $ 17 tin, a relatively ridiculous value compared to the over $ 1000 worth of other items in the box) now has to be printed out, signed, scanned and sent back via e-mail. By tomorrow 12 o'clock sharp, otherwise they return it to the sender at our cost. Well thanks a lot! In our hotel, there's WiFi but no printer and no scanner - just like in most internet cafés here. And in the print shop we don't have internet access. It's another long odyssey through town, but eventually we get it all sorted out. Phew!</span><br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 11. Dezember:</u></b><span style="color: #cc0000;"> </span><br />
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Bereits Gewohnheit für uns: Wassergeschäfte. In Mexiko trinkt man Leitungswasser nur abgekocht, und eigentlich auch nur im Notfall. Normalerweise holt man sich im Supermarkt oder Wassergeschäft einen großen Kanister, den man immer wieder auffüllen lässt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Already a habit with us: water shops. In Mexico, you only drink tap water after boiling it, and only if you have to. Usually, you get a big canister from a supermarket or a water shop and keep refilling it.</span><br />
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Hinter einer Plexiglasscheibe wird eine meiner Trinkflaschen aufgefüllt. Manchmal verlangen diese Wassergeschäfte zehn Pesos für den Service (< 60 Eurocents), meistens jedoch haben die Mitarbeiter Mitleid mit uns armen Radlfahrern und schenken uns die Gebühr.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">One of my bottles being refilled behind a plexiglass wall. Sometimes, these water shops charge us ten pesos for this service (0.80 CAD) but most of the time they feel sorry for us poor cyclists and just give it to us for free.</span><br />
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Oh Kaktusbaum, oh Kaktusbaum...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Oh cactus tree, oh cactus tree...</span><br />
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Zusammen mit Maggie und Bryan, die gestern Nachmittag zufällig in unserm Hotel aufgetaucht sind, fahren wir heute schwer bepackt mit Proviant weiter. Nach einem anstrengenden, aber landschaftlich sehr reizvollen Anstieg auf 430 Höhenmeter machen wir Feierabend.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">With Maggie and Bryan, who showed up in our hotel by coincidence yesterday afternoon, we ride heavily loaded with supplies. After a strenuous but very scenic climb to 430 metres altitude we call it a day.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 81,49 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,06 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: an einer Seitenstraße (Cactus Camp VI.)<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 12. Dezember:</u></b><br />
Heute holt uns John aus Irland ein, den wir neulich in Loreto kennen gelernt haben. Nach einem gemeinsamen Mittagessen in Ciudad Insurgentes ist er aber auch schon wieder weg - der Mann fährt an die 200 Kilometer am Tag!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, John from Ireland, whom we met in Loreto the other day, catches up to us. After a quick lunch together in Ciudad Insurgentes though he's gone again - that guy does like 200 kilometres a day!</span><br />
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Wir wollen gerade unsere Zelte in einem Kaktusfeld aufschlagen, da kommt Yasmina daher und lädt uns auf ihren Hof ein. Leider können wir uns mit ihr und ihrem Mann Marco kaum unterhalten, doch die beiden schauen uns fasziniert bei unserem Abendritual zu: Fahrräder entpacken, Zelte aufbauen, Abendessen kochen.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">We're just about to pitch our tents in a cactus field again when Yasmina comes our way and invites us to stay on her ranch. Unfortunately, we cannot really communicate with her and her husband Marco, but they seem to enjoy the entertainment we provide by simply doing what we do every night: unpack the bikes, set up the tents, cook dinner.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 63,28 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 22,98 km/h (Rückenwind und leichtes Gefälle)</div>
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Nachtlager: auf Marcos und Yasminas Hof (Ranch Camp I.)</div>
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<b><u>Freitag, 13. November:</u></b></div>
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Yasmina beim Tortillas backen. Ihr Herd befindet sich in einer Hütte neben dem Wohnhaus und besteht aus einem selbstgebauten Betontisch, einem Metallgitter und ein paar brennenden Stöcken. Die Familie isst hauptsächlich Tortillas mit Bohnenpüree, Reis und Gemüse; Fleisch kommt nur selten auf den Tisch.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Yasmina baking tortillas. Her stove is in a hut next to the house, and it consists of a DIY concrete table, a metal grill and a few burning sticks. The family mainly eats tortillas with beans, rice and vegetables; meat is very rare on their table.</span><br />
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Heute kommen wir so gut voran, dass wir erst nach 50 Kilometern Pause machen! Diese Getränkedosen stammen von einem freundlichen Paar, das sie uns während der Fahrt aus dem Beifahrerfenster in die Hand drückt. Prost und danke! Bei 40 Grad tut so ein Schluck Kälte unheimlich gut.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today we make such effortless progress that we only take a break after 50 kilometres! The pop cans are from a friendly couple who handed them to us through their passenger window on the go. Cheers! In 40 degrees heat there's nothing like a cold drink.</span><br />
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In einem kleinen Café fragen wir nach einem geeigneten Platz zum Zelten und werden von den Besitzern, Antonio und Antonia, auf ihren Hof eingeladen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We ask the owners of a little café for a good camp spot nearby and they invite us to stay on their ranch.</span><br />
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Maggie und ich fühlen uns sofort heimisch zwischen all den Tieren!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Maggie and I feel like home between all the animals!</span><br />
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Das ist der Schweinestall.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The pig sty.</span><br />
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Wir essen die letzte Grapefrucht, die wir von dem Hotel in Mulegé mitgenommen haben, und Dave entdeckt die kühlende, stoßdämpfende und schließlich schlaffördernde Wirkung deren dicker Schale.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We eat the last one of the grapefruits we brought from the hotel in Mulegé, and Dave discovers the cooling, shock absorbing, and finally sedative effect of its peel.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 92,08 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 20,75 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: auf Antonios und Antonias Hof (Ranch Camp II.)<br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 14. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Ein anstrengender, wenn auch unspektakulärer Tag: Gegenwind und kontinuierliches Klettern auf über 400 Höhenmeter, und das bei 41 Grad. Wir sind froh, als wir zu Maggie und Bryan aufschließen, die hinter diesem Stacheldrahtzaun eine gute Stelle zum Zelten gefunden haben!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">An exhausting, but unspectacular day: oncoming wind, continuous climbing to over 400 metres altitude and 41 degrees heat. We're glad when we catch up to Maggie and Bryan who have found a good place to camp behind this wired fence!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 80,7 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 15,36 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: an einer Seitenstraße (Cactus Camp VII.)<br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 15. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Es sind nur knappe 50 Kilometer bergab bis La Paz, aber die gestalten sich härter und nerviger als alle Bergetappen bisher. Starke Windböen aus allen Richtungen und Autofahrer, denen es auf die letzte halbe Stunde plötzlich pressiert... Bei unserer Ankunft in La Paz sind wir ganz schön entnervt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's not even 50 kilometres downhill to La Paz but it is harder and more annoying than all the climbing we've done so far. Strong winds from all directions and car drivers who suddenly are in a hurry in their last half hour... When we arrive in La Paz, we're mostly frustrated.</span><br />
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Nach einem sagenhaften Mittagessen und einer Dusche in Glendas fahrradfreundlichem Haus sickert jedoch die freudige Tatsache durch, dass wir Niederkalifornien geschafft haben: 1627,11 Kilometer in fünf Wochen (drei Wochen reine Fahrzeit). Jetzt muss nur noch unser Paket mit den Fahrradteilen ankommen und der Wind aufhören, damit wieder Schiffe hinüber zum Festland fahren können...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After a really nice lunch and a shower in Glenda's bicycle friendly house though, the good news slowly leaks out to us that we've just finished Baja California: 1627.11 kilometres in five weeks (three weeks of riding). Now only our package with the bike parts has to arrive and the wind has to stop so that the ships can cross the Sea of Cortez again to the mainland...</span><br />
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Wir sind nicht Glendas einzige Gäste zur Zeit: Sara und Pedro aus Portugal wohnen seit einer Woche bei ihr, die beiden warten auch auf ein Schiff zur Überfahrt aufs Festland. Heute feiern die beiden ihren Hochzeitstag und kochen für alle. Und zu unserer Überraschung sind auch Marion und Virgile eingeladen, die ebenfalls schon seit einer Woche in La Paz festsitzen, weil der Schiffsverkehr eingestellt ist.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We are not the only guests in Glenda's house right now: Sara and Pedro from Portugal have been staying with her for one week now, they're waiting for a boat to go to the mainland. Today, they celebrate their wedding anniversary and cook dinner for everybody. And to our surprise, Marion and Virgile are invited as well, the couple has also been stuck in La Paz for a whole week because there's no ship traffic due to the wind.</span><br />
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Wie wir erfahren, sind die meisten anderen Radreisenden, die wir in den letzten Wochen kennen gelernt haben, nach wie vor in der Stadt bzw. auf einer Fähre Richtung Norden. Also werden wir uns wohl irgendwo auf der anderen Seite des Golfs von Kalifornien wieder in die Arme laufen. Unglaublich!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We learn that most of the bicycle tourists whom we met during the last few weeks are either still in town or on a ferry north. Which means that chances are we're going to bump into them again at some point on the other side of the Sea of Cortez!</span><br />
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Anschneiden der Hochzeitstorte.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Cutting the wedding cake.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 48,16 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 15,36 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: bei Glenda in La Paz (Warmshowers VII.)<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 16. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Der Tag der guten Nachrichten. In aller Herrgottsfrühe radeln wir mit Maggie und Bryan zum Jachthafen. Um acht Uhr versammeln sich dort alle Bootsbesitzer zur täglichen Wetterbericht-, Notfall- und Nachrichtendurchsage. Nach dem offiziellen Teil kann jeder selbst zum Funkgerät greifen und eine Durchsage machen, die auf allen Booten und in allen Häfen gehört wird. Dave und ich sind heute nur Zuschauer, denn wir warten ja immer noch auf unser Päckchen. Doch Maggie und Bryan finden auf diesem Weg jemanden, der morgen mit seinem Segelboot ablegt und noch Platz für zwei Leute samt Gepäck hat...<br />
Zurück in Glendas Haus ruft Dave nochmal bei UPS an, und siehe da: Morgen soll unser Zeug in La Paz sein!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The day of the good news. We ride to the marina with Maggie and Bryan at the crack of dawn. At eight o'clock, all the boat owners meet for the daily weather-, emergency- and news announcements. After the official part, everybody can grab the radio and make an announcement that will be heard on all boats and in all marinas. Dave and I are only spectators today because we're still waiting for our package. But Maggie and Bryan find a guy who's going to sail out tomorrow and still has room for two guests...</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Back in Glenda's house, Dave calls UPS again, and guess what: Our package is supposed to be in La Paz tomorrow!</span><br />
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Und ein weiterer Grund zum Feiern: Glendas Sohn Glen hat heute seine Schulausbildung abgeschlossen! Am Abend nehmen die beiden uns mit in ihr Lieblingsrestaurant.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And another reason to celebrate: Glenda's son Glen graduated from school today! In the evening, the two of them take us into a typical Mexican restaurant.</span><br />
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Pedro kann's schon gar nicht mehr erwarten, bis sein Essen kommt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Pedro can't wait for his food to come!</span><br />
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Zur Nachspeise gibt's Hot Dogs von einem kleinen Stand. Diesen Männern bei der Arbeit zuzusehen, ist eine wahre Schau: Wie bei einem Klavierspieler fliegen die Hände über die Theke, und das ohne hinzusehen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">For dessert, we have hot dogs from a little stand. It's fun to watch these men work: Their hands are flying across the counter like a piano player's, and without watching they fill the buns with vegetables and sauces!</span><br />
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Wie es hier untertags zugehen muss, deutet auch dieser Nummernspender an, der an dem Stand angebracht ist.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Just a hint at how busy this stand gets during the day: a number dispenser.</span><br />
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Dave sitzt während der Fahrt im Kofferraum.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave gets to sit in the boot.</span><br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 17. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Gleich am Morgen fahren Dave und ich wieder zum Jachthafen und versuchen für morgen eine Mitfahrgelegenheit zum Festland aufzutreiben. Wir machen eine Funkdurchsage an alle Schiffe und hängen eine Notiz an die Pinnwand. Es meldet sich niemand, was sich als Glücksfall herausstellt, denn erstens überrascht uns heute Abend beide eine plötzliche Magen-Darm-Geschichte, und zweitens ist unser Paket zwar heute in La Paz angekommen, aber wir können es erst morgen abholen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">First thing in the morning, Dave and I go to the marina again and try to get a ride to the mainland. We make an announcement to all boats and put a note on the pinboard. No reply though, but that turns out to be a good thing because firstly, both of us suddenly get really sick tonight, and secondly, even if our package arrived in La Paz today we can only pick it up tomorrow.</span><br />
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Strandpromenade von La Paz<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Waterfront of La Paz</span><br />
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Jeder Laternenpfahl ist weihnachtlich dekoriert.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Christmas decoration on all the lanterns.</span><br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 18. Dezember:</u></b><br />
Mamas alter Trick mit Butterbrot und rotem Paprika und Glendas Kamillentee stellen uns langsam wieder auf die Beine. Gott, sind wir froh, dass wir jetzt nicht auf ein Schiff müssen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">My Mom's old trick with the red peppers on bread and butter and Glenda's camomile tea slowly put us onto our feet again. Man, are we glad not to to be on a boat right now!</span><br />
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Am Nachmittag fährt uns Glenda zur UPS-Filiale, und dann ist Weihnachten für uns...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the afternoon, Glenda drives us to the UPS store, and then it's christmas for us...</span><br />
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... bzw. unsere armen, geschundenen Hintern: Die bekommen jeweils einen neuen Sattel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... or actually for our poor, sore bums: They get a new saddle each.</span><br />
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Hoffentlich halten die Dinger, was uns alle anderen Tourenradler versprochen haben!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Hopefully those things will live up to what all the other touring cyclists have promised us!</span><br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 19. Dezember:</u></b><br />
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Hier steckt er also, der Santa Claus. Dem ist es wohl zu kalt geworden am Nordpol!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Here he is: Looks like it's too cold for Santa Claus up at the north pole!</span><br />
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Abschied von La Paz: Heute fahren wir kreuz und quer durch die Stadt, in der Hoffnung hier Dinge zu bekommen, die es in kleineren Städten nicht gibt. Aber Lederwachs für unsere Sättel finden wir keins, da schauen wir in Guadalajara dann.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Goodbye, La Paz: Today we zigzag around town trying to get things we cannot find in smaller towns. But leather wax for our saddles doesn't seem to exist here, we'll have to try in Guadalajara.</span><br />
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Morgen verlassen wir Niederkalifornien. Wir nehmen die Containerfähre nach Mazatlán, denn die Passagierfähre ist tatsächlich bis weit in den Januar hinein ausgebucht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Tomorrow, we are going to leave Baja California. We take the freight ferry to Mazatlán because the passenger ferry is booked out until the middle of January.</span></div>
Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0La Paz, Baja California Sur, Mexico24.1426408 -110.3127531000000123.9107573 -110.6354766 24.374524299999997 -109.99002960000001tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-35534350976754833682013-11-27T15:56:00.001-08:002013-12-27T08:51:08.566-08:00Baja California Norte (Nordniederkalifornien)<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Dienstag, 12. November:</u></b></div>
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Ein Polizist pfeift uns zurück, als wir gerade in die schön ausgebaute Carretera einbiegen - wir müssen leider zurück auf die alte Straße. Die führt nicht am Meer entlang, sondern über die Berge und ein Hochplateau nach Ensenada. Tolle Aussichten und zum Schluss eine schöne lange Abfahrt belohnen uns für die Mühe.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We're just about to turn into the nicely paved Carretera when a policeman whistles us back - we have to take the old road. It doesn't follow the coast but leads us over the mountains and a high plateau to Ensenada. Stunning views and a long downhill at the end are the rewards for our hard work.</span></div>
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Der Eingang zu unserem Hotelzimmer ist ein Garagentor! Von dort aus geht es die Treppe rauf in unser Zimmer. Sehr praktisch.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The entrance to our hotel room is a garage door! From there, we have to climb the stairs into our room. Very convenient.</span></div>
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Auf der Kommode finden wir das breit gefächerte Angebot des Zimmerservices...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On a side board, we find the wide selection of the room service...</span></div>
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... und schlagartig wird uns klar, warum die Dame an der Rezeption uns zunächst nicht den auf der Werbetafel genannten Preis von 300 Pesos geben wollte: Das ist die 4-Stunden-Rate!! Jetzt machen auch die Garagentore Sinn, da kann man so schön anonym ein- und ausfahren. Wir scheinen tatsächlich die einzigen Gäste zu sein, die die ganze Nacht hier verbringen, dem "Verkehr" nach zu urteilen: Ständig hört man irgendwo ein Garagentor, und die Geräusche aus dem Zimmer nebenan sind ebenfalls eindeutige Indizien dafür, dass es sich bei unserem Quartier nicht um ein Familienhotel handelt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and instantly we realize why the lady at the reception first didn't want to give us the price they advertise on the billboard outside ($ 300) - that's the 4-hour-rate!! Now the garage doors make sense, too: You can sneak in and out anonymously. Judging by the constant noise, we seem to be the only guests who are staying for the entire length of one night: garage doors rumbling, cars going by and people moaning and groaning... This is not a family hotel!</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 79,61 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 15,53 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Motel Sena in Ensenada<br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 13. November:</u></b><br />
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Heute verschlafen Dave und ich gründlichst, wahrscheinlich weil wir so lang keine Ruhe fanden... Wir versuchen unser Glück auf www.warmshowers.org und bekommen eine spontane Zusage von Juan und Diane, die uns für zwei Nächte bei sich aufnehmen. So haben wir den ganzen Tag Zeit zum Rumtrödeln.<br />
In einem Café spricht uns Dwight an, der mit seiner Frau Sarah in einer Mission in El Papalote arbeitet. Das sei ein kleines Dorf etwa 220 km südlich von Ensenada, und wir könnten ein paar Tage bei ihnen übernachten, wenn wir dort vorbeikommen. Wir nehmen das Angebot sehr gern an, und verabreden uns für "in ein paar Tagen".<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, Dave and I sleep in thoroughly, probably because we didn't get any sleep until very late... We try our luck with www.warmshowers.org and get a positive response from Juan and Diane who will accommodate us for two nights. Now we can dawdle about for the rest of the day.</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In a café, Dwight starts talking to us. He and his wife Sarah work in a mission in El Papalote, around 220 km south of Ensenada, and they love hosting travellers. He invites us to stay in his place when we get there, so we arrange to meet there "in a couple of days".</span></div>
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Nachtlager: bei Juan und Diane in Ensenada (Warmshowers)<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 14. November:</u></b><br />
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Es ist der Vortag der Baja 1000, dem alljährlichen Motorrad- und Autorennen in Niederkalifornien. Soweit wir verstehen, läuft heute die offizielle Anmeldung, bei der jedes Team sein Fahrzeug vorführt oder so.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's Baja 1000 Eve, and as far as we understand, all the teams taking part in the annual race down the Baja peninsula have to register and present their vehicles today.</span></div>
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Tausende Leute sind in der Innenstadt unterwegs, es ist ein riesiges Sehen und gesehen Werden. Hauptsächlich sind es gut betuchte Amis, die hier ihre Spezialkarossen präsentieren.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There are thousands of people downtown, lots of showing off and shoptalk going on. For the most part it's rich Americans taking their specialty limos for a walk.</span></div>
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Ursprünglich waren es aufgemotzte VW Käfer, die bei diesem Offroadrennen teilnahmen. Es sind noch immer viele davon dabei, aber erlaubt ist, was gefällt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Originally, it was an off road race for souped-up Volkswagen Beetles, and there's still lots of them today. But anything goes.</span></div>
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Die Schlange ist endlos!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The lineup is endless!</span><br />
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Käfer, hüpf mal: Mit diesen Stoßdämpfern kein Problem!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Jump, beetle, jump: No problem with shocks like that!</span><br />
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Unsere Räder parken auf dem Gehsteig an der Seite, und trotz allem Lärm, den die eigentlichen Stars der Show veranstalten, ziehen sie viele Blicke auf sich. Das inspiriert uns natürlich zu einem kleinen Schabernack:<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our bikes are parked behind us on the sidewalk, and even though the actual stars of the show make a huge noise they still get a lot of attention. Which inspires us to a little prank:</span></div>
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Wir warten auf eine Lücke in der Aufstellung...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We just wait for a gap in the lineup...</span><br />
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... und schon sind wir mittendrin. Unzählige Male werden wir fotografiert, ungläubig angestarrt und gefragt, ob wir tatsächlich am Rennen teilnehmen. Ein herrlicher Spaß!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and then we're in. Countless people take our pictures, stare at us in disbelief and ask if we're taking part in the race. It's so much fun!</span></div>
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Zum Mittagessen treffen wir uns mit unserem Gastgeber Juan, danach sitzen wir gemütlich in einem Park am Meer, lesen, ratschen und genießen die Ruhe.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We meet our host Juan for lunch, and afterwards we sit down in a park next to the beach, read, chat and enjoy the peace and quiet.</span></div>
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Nachtlager: wieder bei Juan und Diane in Ensenada (Warmshowers)<br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 15. November:</u></b><br />
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Um neun Uhr morgens beginnt die Baja 1000, die Fahrzeuge werden im Minutentakt losgelassen und schießen mit Karacho durch ein ausgetrocknetes Flussbett. Von einer Brücke aus haben wir einen guten Blick auf die erste Sprungschanze.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The Baja 1000 starts at nine o'clock in the morning, every minute they release one vehicle into the dried river bed. We're standing on a bridge, watching the cars drive smack through the water hazards and over the first jump.</span></div>
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Auch die Kleinsten sind live dabei.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Even small babies are here to watch.</span></div>
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Nachwuchsförderung!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Promoting young talents!</span><br />
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Schade ist, dass die Rennfahrer vom Reiseproviant bis zum Kraftstoff alles aus den USA mitbringen und der lokalen Bevölkerung hauptsächlich Müll und zerstörte Natur hinterlassen. Findige Einheimische jedoch machen wenigstens mit den Schaulustigen ihr Geschäft.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's a pity that most of the racing teams import everything from food to fuel from the US, and all they leave for the local population is garbage and destroyed nature. Some locals though at least get a little business from the spectators.</span></div>
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Zuckerwatte<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Cotton candy</span><br />
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Erdmüsse<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Peanuts</span><br />
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Nach ein paar Stunden fahren wir weiter nach Santo Tomas. Der Gegenwind macht die kurze Strecke ganz schön anstrengend, aber die Aussicht auf eine schöne warme Dusche treibt uns an. Doch im Hotel angekommen, kommt nur dieses traurige Rinnsal aus dem Wasserhahn. Uns schwant Übles...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After a few hours, we cycle to Santo Tomas. It's only a short ride but the wind is against us so it's pretty hard work and we're cheering ourselves on with the prospect of a nice warm shower. But when we arrive at the hotel this sad trickle is all we get out of our bathroom sink tap. We've got a sense of foreboding...</span></div>
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Zuerst geht die Dusche gar nicht, bis wir den extra Hebel oben am Duschkopf entdecken. Eine liebevolle und wirksame Heimwerkerlösung gegen einen tröpfelnden Hahn, wie wir feststellen. Es bleibt bei dem Tröpfeln, und die einzige vorhandene Temperatur ist kalt. Na wunderbar! Die Hotelbesitzerin und eine Angestellte rennen eine Stunde lang zwischen unserm Bad und dem Hauptwasserhahn im Hof hin und her, verlegen einen Gartenschlauch bis vor unsere Tür, um die Luft aus der Leitung zu lassen (soweit ich mit meinen grandiosen Spanischkenntnissen verstehe) und melden irgendwann glücklich: "¡Agua caliente!" - warmes Wasser!</div>
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Ich springe sofort unter die Dusche, wo ich mit allen möglichen Verrenkungen versuche, mich nicht am ganzen Körper zu verbrühen. Nach drei Minuten ist das heiße Wasser dann auch schon aufgebraucht und ich dusche kalt weiter. Oh Mann!</div>
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Beim Abendessen klärt uns die lustige Hotelbesitzerin über die gesundheitlichen Vorteile von Wechselduschen auf und spendiert uns ihr hausgemachtes Quittenkompott als Wiedergutmachung.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At first, the shower doesn't work at all until we discover that extra tap on the showerhead. A loving and effective DIY-solution for a dripping tap, as we realize. The dripping is all we get though, and the only temperature is cold. Awesome! For over an hour, the hotel owner and her helper run back and forth between our bathroom and the main tap in the courtyard, lay a garden hose to our door in order to let air out of the pipes (as far as I understand with my extraordinary Spanish skills) and eventually report proudly: "¡Agua caliente!" - warm water!</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">I jump into the shower right away, and by performing the weirdest contortions I manage not to scald myself everywhere. After three minutes the hot water is used up and I finish my shower with cold water. Oh man!</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">At dinner, the cheerful hotel owner explains to us how healthy it is to have alternating hot and cold showers and gives us her homemade quince compote on the house.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 57,25 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 14,37 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Hotel Palomar in Santo Tomas<br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 16. November:</u></b><br />
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Wir sind fast startklar, als Dave meinen platten Hinterreifen bemerkt. Also alle Taschen wieder runter vom Rad und Loch flicken! Ein kleines Stück Draht ist der Übeltäter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We're almost ready to go when Dave discovers that my back tire is flat. So we have to take everything apart again and fix the hole! A little piece of wire is the culprit.</span></div>
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Auf der Fahrt durch das bergige Hinterland klettern wir zum ersten Mal seit den kalifornischen Redwoods auf über 500 Höhenmeter. Wir sehen viele Bauernhöfe in dieser staubtrockenen Gegend, allerdings ist es schwer zu sagen, was auf den Feldern wächst.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We ride through the hilly hinterland and for the first time since the Californian Redwoods, we climb above 500 metres. We see lots of farms in this dusty and dry area, but it's hard to tell what they grow on their fields.</span></div>
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Die Carretera hat jetzt keinen Seitenstreifen mehr, aber die Mexikaner sind sehr geduldig mit uns. Nicht so einige der Baja 1000-Teilnehmer, die uns mit ihren gestern geschrotteten Rennwägen entgegenkommen (einer sogar auf nur drei Reifen!) - die sind immer noch im Rallyefieber und zwingen uns ein paarmal ins Bankett!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The carretera doesn't have a shoulder here but the Mexicans are very patient with us. Some of the Baja 1000 participants on the other hand, who are driving back north in their broken vehicles (one of them with only three tires left!) are still in rally mood and force us off the road a couple of times!</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 40,68 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,3 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Motel El Camino in San Vicente<br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 17. November:</u></b><br />
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Heute sehen wir viele Gewächshäuser (wahrscheinlich Avocados) und Plantagen mit Nopalkakteen und Chilipflanzen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Today, we see many greenhouses (probably avocados) and fields with nopal cacti and chillies.</span></div>
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Mittagspause in Colonet: Trino lädt uns von der Straße weg zu sich ein, als wir nach einem Restaurant fragen. Zuerst führt er uns durch seinen großen Garten, rupft eine Handvoll gelbe Rüben aus und zeigt uns, wie man eine reife Melone erkennt. Beim Gemüsewaschen erzählt er voller Stolz, dass er einen eigenen Brunnen hat, aus dem er genug Wasser für sich und den Garten holen kann. Im Stillen warne ich meinen Darm, mir bloß nicht diesen Tag zu versauen, desinfiziere alles gründlich mit frischem Limettensaft und lasse es mir schmecken.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lunch break in Colonet: Trino invites us into his home when we ask for a restaurant. He shows us around in his big garden, harvests a handful of carrots and explains how to tell if a melon is ripe. Also, he tells us that he's got his own well which gives him enough water for the household and the garden. I quietly warn my gastrointestinal tract from ruining my day, disinfect everything thoroughly with fresh lime juice and dig in.</span></div>
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Mmmh! Erntefrisch und gesund. Nach dieser Wochenration an Vitaminen verlangen unsere Körper nach ihrem geliebten Eiweiß. Wie gut, dass gleich ums Eck eine Imbissbude ist! Wir probieren zum ersten Mal Tostadas Mariscos, eine Art Meeresfrüchtesalat auf großen Tortillachips serviert. Wow!! Unser neues Lieblingsgericht. Sooo gut!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Mmmh! Fresh from the garden and so healthy. After this week's worth of vitamins, our bodies need some proteins. Luckily, there's a little food stand just around the corner! For the first time, we try tostadas mariscos, seafood salad served on big tortilla chips. Wow!! Our new favourite. Sooo good!</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 70,64 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,48 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: California Inn Hotel in Camalú</div>
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<b><u>Montag, 18. November:</u></b></div>
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Eine schnurgerade und brettlebene Straße führt nach El Papalote, einem Ort, der auf keiner Karte eingezeichnet ist. Ohne die Hilfe der Einheimischen wären wir aufgeschmissen, denn auch Straßennamen gibt es keine. Doch natürlich kennt jeder in dem Dorf das amerikanische Ehepaar von der Mission, und ein Mann führt uns direkt zu Dwights und Sarahs Haus.<br />
Die beiden empfangen uns wie alte Freunde, überlassen uns ein komplettes Appartement und laden uns zum Abendessen ein. Es wird ein wunderbar entspannter Abend, an dem Dave zwar seine Sitar auspackt, aber vor lauter Ratschen kaum zum Spielen kommt.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">A dead straight and flat road leads to El Papalote, a little village that's not shown on any map. Without the help of some locals we'd be in a fix because there are no street names either. But of course everybody around knows the American couple from the mission, and a man guides us right to Dwight and Sarah's house.</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The two of them welcome us like old friends, let us stay in their guest apartment and invite us for dinner. It's a wonderfully relaxed evening with so many stories to be shared that Dave doesn't really get to play the sitar even after unpacking it.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 49,71 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 19,12 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: bei Dwight und Sarah in El Papalote<br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 19. November:</u></b><br />
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Blick aus unserer Appartementtür heute morgen. Das Wegerl zum Wohnhaus (rot) soll heute entstaubt werden - Dave und ich schauen, ob wir helfen können.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View from our apartment door this morning. The path to the house (red) is going to be dust free by tonight. Dave and I will see how we can help.</span><br />
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Pünktlich um acht Uhr kommt die Ladung Kies, und schon geht's los.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After the gravel gets delivered at 8 am the guys start making concrete.</span><br />
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Einer der Helfer hat seine Kinder dabei.<br />
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">One of the helpers' children.</span><br />
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Die Südseite kurz vor Mittag.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The south side just before lunch.</span><br />
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Und auch für mich gibt es ein Projekt: Graffiti übermalern!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When Dave mentioned the paint job I had done in Calgary Dwight also came up with a project for me: Get rid of the graffiti!</span><br />
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Am Nachmittag sind sowohl die Süd- als auch die Westseite fertig betoniert. Dwight und Sarah sind froh, dass ab sofort nicht mehr ganz so viel Staub in die Appartements getragen wird.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the afternoon, the south side as well as the west side are done. Dwight and Sarah are glad because from now on there won't be quite as much dust in the apartments.</span><br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 20. November:</u></b><br />
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Abschied von Dwight und Sarah nach anderthalb wunderbar entspannten Tagen. Danke für alles!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Time to say farewell to Dwight and Sarah after a day and a half of relaxing. Thank you so much for everything!</span><br />
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Auf der Fahrt nach El Rosario brechen wir dank dem kräftigen Rückenwind alle unsere Rekorde: neue Spitzengeschwindigkeit (66,15 km/h), neue höchste Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit mit Gepäck (19,49 km/h), neuer Steigungsgrad ohne Absteigen und Schieben (14%). Wow!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On our way to El Rosario we break all our records, thanks to a strong tailwind: new maximum speed (66,15 km/h), new highest average speed with gear (19,49 km/h), new steepest grade without dismounting and walking (14%). Wow!</span><br />
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Die Aussicht ist wieder mal atemberaubend.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The views are breathtaking once again.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 54,48 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 19,49 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Baja Cactus Hotel in El Rosario<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 21. November:</u></b><br />
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Zum ersten Mal seit dem Top-of-the-World-Highway ganz am Anfang unserer Reise starten wir wieder mit Wasser- und Futterreserven für mehrere Tage, denn die nächste Einkaufsmöglichkeit ist in Cataviña, 120 Kilometer von El Rosario entfernt. Und 800 Höhenmeter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">For the first time since the top-of-the-world-highway at the beginning of our journey, we head out with water and food supplies for several days, because the next shopping opportunity is in Cataviña, 120 kilometres from El Rosario. And 800 metres altitude.</span><br />
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Das zusätzliche Gewicht an unseren Rädern und der stetige Anstieg lassen uns nur langsam vorankommen, doch die unendliche Kaktuslandschaft fasziniert uns voll, und alle hundert Höhenmeter feiern wir mit einem kräftigen Schluck Wasser.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The additional weight on our bikes and the constant climb make for a slow progress today. But the endless cactus scenery just blows us away, and we celebrate every 100 metres altitude with a big sip of water.</span><br />
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Auf einem der Gipfel machen Dave und ich Mittagspause, als wir von Weitem zwei Radfahrer daherstrampeln sehen. Es sind Maggie und Bryan aus Vancouver, die wir letzte Woche in Ensenada kennen gelernt haben. Sie gesellen sich zu uns und nach dem Essen fahren wir zu viert noch ein Stückchen weiter.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I are taking our lunch break on one of the hill tops when we spot two other cyclists working their way towards us. It's Maggie and Bryan from Vancouver whom we got to know in Ensenada last week. They join us and after lunch the four of us pedal together for a little while.</span><br />
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Als wir die 700 Meter über dem Meer erreichen, ist es bereits 15 Uhr; Zeit einen geeigneten Schlafplatz zu suchen. Wir schieben unsere Räder einen Kiesweg entlang, der von der Carretera wegführt, und landen einen Volltreffer: Camping zwischen allen möglichen Kakteen und ein gigantisches Panorama!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When we reach 700 metres altitude it's already 3 pm, time to find a good spot for the night. We push our bikes into a small gravel path leading away from the Carretera, and hit the bull's eye: Camping between all sorts of cacti and an absolutely stunning view!</span><br />
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Die Früchte des Nopalkaktus sind essbar. Ein bisschen säuerlich, etwa wie eine unreife Brombeere.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Prickly pear, the fruit of a nopal cactus, for desert: It's a little bit sour, maybe like an unripe blackberry.</span><br />
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Ab 17 Uhr wird es sehr schnell dunkel. Wir kochen miteinander und freuen uns, dass wir so ein cooles Fleckchen gefunden haben. Später am Abend fängt es an zu regnen, aber wofür schleppen wir so ein großes Zelt und ein Brettspiel durch die Gegend? Wir laden Maggie und Bryan ein zu einer Runde Carcassonne und können immer noch nicht fassen, was für ein Glück wir bei der Zeltplatzsuche hatten.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After 5 pm, it gets dark really quickly. We cook up a storm and can't believe what an awesome campspot we found. Later in the evening, it starts raining, but what do we haul around such a big tent and a board game for? We invite Maggie and Bryan over for a round of Carcassonne and still can't believe how lucky we got with our campspot.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 36,65 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 12,33 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: an einer Seitenstraße ("Cactus camp I")<br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 22. November:</u></b><br />
Es hat fast die ganze Nacht geregnet, und am Morgen hängt dicker Nebel in den Bergen um uns. Wir beschließen hierzubleiben, genug Wasser und Nahrung haben wir ja.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It kept raining almost all night, and in the morning there's thick fog hanging in the mountains around us. We decide to stay here as we've got enough water and food with us.</span><br />
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Beim Mittagessen erspähen wir einen Radfahrer, der sich langsam den Berg heraufkämpft. Dave und Bryan laufen zur Straße hinaus und kommen mit Melanie zurück, die heute zwar eigentlich noch mehr schaffen wollte, sich aber spontan zu einem frühen Feierabend entschließt und zu uns gesellt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">During lunch, we spot another cyclist coming up the hill. Dave and Bryan run out to the road and return with Melanie who had planned to get all the way to Cataviña today but is just as happy to call it a day and join us.</span><br />
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Auf dieselbe Weise kommen im Laufe des Nachmittags noch Justin (den kennen wir schon von den kalifornischen Redwoods), Paul (den kennt Melanie), Rigel und Erin (Freunde von Maggie und Bryan) dazu. Auf dem Foto sieht man ganz klein Rigel und Erin.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the course of the afternoon, Justin (whom we've met in the Californian Redwoods), Paul (whom Melanie has travelled with before), Rijel and Erin (Maggie and Bryan's friends) join our group in the same way. In the picture, you can see Rijel and Erin as two little dots on the road.</span><br />
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Neun Leute, sechs Zelte: Langsam sollten wir Eintritt verlangen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Nine people, six tents: We should start charging a fee!</span><br />
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Wir machen einen Erkundungsspaziergang, genießen die Aussicht, bewundern die Kakteen und fragen uns, ob die wohl als Brennmaterial taugen würden?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We go for a walk exploring "our" hill, enjoy the view, admire cacti and wonder if they would make good fire wood?</span><br />
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Das werden wir herausfinden! Wir sammeln abgestorbene Kaktusteile für später.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We'll find out! Suddenly, everybody is busy collecting dead cactus parts for later.</span><br />
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Interessante Rollenverteilung :-)<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Interesting role allocation :-)</span><br />
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Abendessen kochen um 16 Uhr.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Cooking dinner at 4 pm.</span><br />
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Lagerfeuer um 18 Uhr. Daves Kettensäge kommt mal wieder zum Einsatz. Es wird ein superlustiger Abend, und alle sind begeistert von der Brennqualität der Kaktusstämme.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Campfire at 6 pm. Dave's chain saw gets used once again. It's a really fun evening, and everybody is surprised how well and long the cactus trunks burn.</span><br />
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Bettruhe um 21 Uhr. Es ist echt krass, wie früh man hier müde wird. Und da niemand eine Uhr trägt, folgt man halt seinem Körpergefühl und geht ins Bett. Dafür wird man um fünf Uhr morgens schon wach, weil es hell ist und der Magen knurrt. Nord-Niederkalifornien liegt einfach zu weit im Osten um dieselbe Zeitzone wie Kalifornien zu haben, aber gut. In ein paar Tagen, wenn wir nach Süd-Niederkalifornien kommen, stellen wir unsere Uhren eine Stunde vor...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Bedtime at 9 pm. It's really strange how early we get tired around here. And as nobody is wearing a watch we just listen to our bodies and go to sleep. On the other hand, at 5 am our tummies start grumbling and it's already too bright outside to sleep. The north part of Baja California simply is too far east to be in the same time zone as California, but that won't be an issue anymore in a couple of days when we cross into the south part and turn our clocks an hour forward...</span><br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 23. November:</u></b><br />
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Wir haben Glück und bleiben trocken, aber der Wind bläst heute irgendwie aus allen Richtungen. Außerdem klettern wir wieder fast den ganzen Tag; kurz vor Cataviña sind wir auf 835 Metern über dem Meer!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We're lucky and don't get wet but the wind comes from all directions today somehow. Plus, we're climbing almost all day again; just before Cataviña we reach 835 metres altitude!</span><br />
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Öffentliches Telefon? Klar, einfach der Sandstraße 32 Kilometer Richtung Küste folgen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There's a public phone nearby. Just follow the sand road towards the coast for 32 kilometres!</span><br />
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Dave entdeckt diese Marshmellowkekse mit Erdbeersirup für sich.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave loves these marshmellow cookies with strawberry sirup.</span><br />
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Tarantel am Straßenrand.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Tarantula next to the road.</span><br />
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Und endlich, kurz vor Sonnenuntergang: das Steinbrockenmeer, das Cataviña ankündigt. Was für eine bizarre Landschaft!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And finally, just before sundown: the sea of rocks that announce Cataviña. What a bizarre landscape!</span><br />
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In Cataviña gibt es das wohl pinkeste Hotel der Welt. Außen pink, innen pink, so pink, dass einem die Augen wehtun. Aber wie wir von Dwight erfahren haben, ist pink leider die billigste Wandfarbe...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In Cataviña, there's the pinkest of all hotels in the world. Pink outside, pink inside. So pink your eyes get sore. But as we've learned from Dwight, pink unfortunately is the cheapest wall colour...</span><br />
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Abendessen im Hotel mit Justin, Bryan und Maggie. Danach spielen wir noch eine Runde Carcassonne, bevor um 22 Uhr unangemeldet der Generator abgeschaltet wird. Wir sitzen im Dunkeln! Nun wissen wir auch, dass die Kerzen im Zimmer nicht der romantischen Ader des Hotelbesitzers entsprungen sind... Aber wie sollen wir jetzt unsere Akkus laden, bitteschön?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dinner at the hotel with Justin, Bryan and Maggie. Afterwards, we play a round of Carcassonne before at 10 pm, the generator gets shut off without warning. We're sitting in the darkness! Now we know that the candles in the rooms are not some personal touch of a romantic hotel owner... But how the heck are we going to charge our batteries?</span><br />
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Wie praktisch! Über dem Waschbecken ist ein Nagel, an dem ich mein kleines Lämpchen aufhängen kann. EIN Problem gelöst.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">How neat! There's a nail above the sink where I can hang up my little light. That saves ONE problem.</span><br />
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Aus unseren bisherigen Erfahrungen lässt sich zusammenfassen, dass ein typisches mexikanisches Hotel um die 250-350 Pesos pro Nacht kostet (14-20 Euro). Meistens bekommt man dafür zwei Doppelbetten, ein eigenes Bad mit schwacher, aber warmer Dusche, Fernseher, mittelmäßiges Internet, eine Flasche Trinkwasser, saubere, aber alte Handtücher und ein Stück Seife. Die Einrichtung ist sehr schlicht und oft schon ziemlich abgenutzt, doch verglichen mit den Wohnverhältnissen in durchschnittlichen Privathaushalten hier als gehoben zu bezeichnen. Aber manchmal haben wir halt auch weniger Glück...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">From our experiences so far, we can sum up that a typical Mexican hotel is between 250 and 350 pesos per night (</span><span style="color: #cc0000;">20-28 CAD). In most cases, what you get is two queen beds, en suite bathroom with weak but warm shower, TV, mediocre WiFi, a bottle of drinking water, clean but old towels and a piece of soap. The furnishing is very simple and often quite worn, but luxurious compared to the living standards in private households here. Sometimes though we're less lucky...</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 90,36 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,14 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Pinkes Hotel in Cataviña (Katastrophe)<br />
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<b><u>Sonntag, 24. November:</u></b><br />
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Weiter geht's zwischen Kakteen und Steinbrocken, und heute klettern wir auf 1000 Meter über dem Meer! So hoch waren wir seit Alaska nicht mehr!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And more cacti and more rocks and more climbing today! We ascend to 1000 metres above sea level for the first time since Alaska.</span><br />
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Schwer bepackt bei der Arbeit: Ich trage sogar meinen Wasserrucksack, den ich schon seit dem 10. August nicht mehr gebraucht habe. Aber wir haben wieder eine längere Durststrecke vor uns...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Heavily loaded and working hard: I even wear my camel back which I haven't used since August 10th. But there's quite the lean period ahead of us again...</span><br />
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Blick aus dem Zelt kurz vor Sonnenuntergang.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View from our tent just before sunset.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 81,10 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 15,78 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: an einer Seitenstraße ("Cactus camp II")<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 25. November:</u></b><br />
Ab der ersten Kurve wird aus dem starken Seitenwind ein starker Rückenwind; fast anderthalb Stunden lang fliegen wir mit 40 km/h dahin, es ist gigantisch!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After the first curve, the strong side wind turns into a strong tailwind; we fly for nearly an hour and a half at 40 km/h, it's just wicked!</span><br />
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Mittagspause in einem Café<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lunch at a café</span><br />
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Und wieder findet sich eine kleine Seitenstraße, diesmal sogar mit Blick aufs Meer, wenn wir auf einen Hügel steigen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And of course we find another little side road, and we even get to see the ocean from a little hill next to our campspot!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 90,74km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 22,44 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: an einer Seitenstraße ("Cactus camp III")<br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 26. November:</u></b><br />
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Sonnenaufgang überm Kaktuscamp um sechs Uhr.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sunrise above the cactus camp at 6 am.</span><br />
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Ein Kolibri beim Frühstück an einer Agavenblüte.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Hummingbird having breakfast in an agave flower.</span><br />
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Agavenpflanze, etwa drei Meter hoch.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The whole agave plant is about three metres tall.</span><br />
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Schock: Alle sechs Schrauben an Daves Hinterradbremse sind abgebrochen, und die Bremsscheibe verbogen! Das sollte eigentlich nicht passieren, aber natürlich finden sich in seinem Ersatzteilsammelsurium sechs passende Schrauben, und nach einer Stunde Fluchen und Schwitzen sind wir wieder "on the road".<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Shock: All six screws of Dave's back brake are broken off, and the disk is warped! That's not supposed to happen, but of course Dave finds six fitting screws in his spare parts collection. After one hour of sweating and strongly worded expressions regarding the mishap, we're back on the road.</span><br />
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Ich wünschte, ich könnte so gut Spanisch wie dieser kleine Kerl, der mich eine Weile fröhlich vollquasselt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">I wish my Spanish was as good as this little fellow's who's merrily gabbling away at me for a while.</span><br />
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Mittagspause in Valle Jesus Maria. Dass ausgerechnet dieses Kaff solch hehre Namenspatrone hat, kann nur an den Fischtacos liegen. Die sind nämlich einmalig!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lunch break in Valle Jesus Maria. The only reason why of all villages, this hole got such noble patron saints, has to be its fish tacos. They are phenomenal!</span><br />
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Wir lernen Mathias aus Erfurt und Torii aus Washington kennen, die gemeinsam mit dem Fahrrad unterwegs sind.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We get to know Mathias from Germany and Torii from Washington, they are riding to La Paz together.</span><br />
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Am 28. Breitengrad entlang führt die Grenze nach Süd-Niederkalifornien. Und gleich dahinter liegt die Stadt Guerrero Negro, Ziel für heute.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The 28º parallel is the border to the south part of Baja California. And right on the other side is our goal for today, Guerrero Negro.</span><br />
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Mathias, Bryan, Torii, Maggie, ich, Dave und Justin spielen ein bisschen Straßenblockade. ¡Bienvenidos a Baja California Sur!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Mathias, Bryan, Torii, Maggie, me, Dave and Justin block the road for a little while. ¡Bienvenidos a Baja California Sur!</span><br />
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Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com2Guerrero Negro, Baja California Sur, Mexico27.9591758 -114.05664627.931127800000002 -114.0969865 27.9872238 -114.0163055tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-27969673554293642172013-11-11T22:32:00.002-08:002013-11-11T22:32:15.405-08:00¡Bienvenidos a Mexico!<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Samstag, 9. November:</u></b></div>
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Ein letzter Zwischenstop bei Starbucks, direkt vor der Grenze.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">One last visit at Starbucks just before the border.</span><br />
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Das ist der Fußweg über die Grenze. Fahrradfahrer müssen absteigen und schieben.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This is the pedestrian path across the border. Cyclists have to dismount and push.</span><br />
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Dieses Drehkreuz ist die Grenze. Auf der mexikanischen Seite steht ein schwer bewaffneter Soldat und schaut. Ansonsten marschiert man ohne aufgehalten zu werden einfach durch, Passkontrolle gibt es keine.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">This turnstile is the border. There's one heavily armed soldier watching on the Mexican side, other than that you just walk through without being stopped or asked to show your passport.</span> </div>
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Mit meinem Fahrrad komme ich gerade so durch, ohne die Satteltaschen abnehmen zu müssen. Ich muss nur ein paarmal das Hinterrad hochheben und seitlich versetzen, schon stehe ich in Mexiko. Aber Dave ist noch auf der anderen Seite und stellt fest, dass Fahrräder mit Anhänger nicht bedacht wurden, als dieses Drehkreuz installiert wurde.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">I barely fit through the gate without having to take off the panniers from my bike. I just have to lift my back wheel to the side a couple of times, and suddenly I stand in Mexico. But Dave is still on the other side and realizes that they didn't consider bikes with trailers when they put that gate in.</span></div>
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Jeder kann nur einmal durchgehen, und einen Teil des Gepäcks zurückzulassen kommt überhaupt nicht in Frage. Doch es finden sich ein paar hilfsbereite Jungs, die Daves Anhänger mitnehmen und bei mir abliefern. Dave folgt ihnen mit seinem Rad und baut anschließend alles wieder zusammen.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Every person can only walk through the gate once, of course. And there's no way Dave would leave part of his stuff behind. But there are two guys who offer to carry the trailer across to where I am. Dave follows them with his bike and puts everything back together afterwards.</span></div>
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Die Anspannung fällt erst von uns ab, als wir die enge, kurvige Rampe hinter uns gebracht haben. <strong class="tilde" style="background-color: white; color: #191919; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">¡</strong>Bienvenidos a Mexico!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Our tension only drops after this narrow windy ramp. </span><strong class="tilde" style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="color: #cc0000;">¡</span></strong><span style="color: #cc0000;">Bienvenidos a Mexico!</span></div>
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Und ab sofort stellt sich Urlaubsgefühl ein. Wir werden von Angela angesprochen, die in Tijuana wohnt und weiß, wie leicht man sich hier als Fremder verfahren kann. Sie macht ihrem Namen alle Ehre und lotst uns von der Grenze bis zur Abzweigung des Highways nach Rosarito. Dort erklärt sie einem anderen Radler, wo er uns hinbringen soll - und auch der erweist sich als hilfsbereiter Engel.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">And from then on we're in holiday mood. We meet Angela who lives in Tijuana and knows how easy it is to get lost here as a stranger. She lives up to her name and guides us from the border to the beginning of the Rosarito highway. There she explains to another cyclist where to bring us - and he also proves to be a helpful angel.</span></div>
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Erst als der Weg wirklich idiotensicher ist, fahren Dave und ich allein weiter Richtung Süden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Only when the route is really idiot proof, Dave and I ride towards Rosarito by ourselves.</span><br />
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In Rosarito findet Dave unerwartet das Hotel, in dem er vor fünf Jahren schon seine erste Nacht in Mexiko verbracht hat. Bargeld haben wir noch keines, aber wir können mit unseren letzten Dollar bezahlen.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">In Rosarito Dave finds the very hotel he spent his first night in Mexico in when he came here five years ago. We don't have any cash yet but we can pay with our last dollars.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 52 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 14,25 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: Hotel del Sol in Rosarito</div>
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<b><u>Sonntag, 10. November:</u></b></div>
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Wir beschließen, noch eine weitere Nacht in dem Hotel zu bleiben, damit wir Rosarito erkunden und die Fahrräder auf Vordermann bringen können. Ich bekomme eine andere Lenkerstange mit größerem Winkel, Dave neue Bremsklötze und an beiden Rädern wechselt er die Kette aus. Als Zwischenbilanz kann man sagen, dass wir sehr zufrieden sind mit unserer Ausrüstung. Knappe 4000 Kilometer ohne große technische Schwierigkeiten liegen hinter uns, wir hoffen, dass es so weitergeht.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">We decide to stay at the hotel for another night so that we can explore Rosarito and overhaul the bikes. I get a different handlebar with a bigger angle, Dave gets new brake pads and changes both our chains. As an interim report we can say we're very satisfied with our gear. Nearly 4000 kilometres without any big technical issues; we hope that's how it's going to stay.</span></div>
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Keine 24 Stunden sind wir in Mexiko, und schon lernen wir unseren dritten Engel kennen: Im Hotel funktioniert die Kreditkarte nicht, und auch am Bankautomaten heißt es jedesmal: "Kein Service für diese Karte". Wir probieren es in vier verschiedenen lokalen Banken, nichts. Und natürlich ist es Sonntag, da kann man noch nicht einmal an den Schalter gehen. Auf der Straße fragen wir einen Mann, ob es irgendwo eine internationale Bank gibt. Ja, es gebe eine HSBC-Filiale, aber die sei ein paar Kilometer von hier entfernt. Wenn wir nur schnell warten, bis er seine Flyer verteilt habe, könne er uns hinfahren...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After not even 24 hours in Mexico we already get to know our third angel: Our credit card won't work in the hotel, and ATMs keep telling us "no service for this card". We try four different brands, nothing. And of course it's sunday so we cannot even talk to anybody. On the street, we ask a man if there's an international bank somewhere. Yes, he goes, there's an HSBC but it's a couple of kilometres away. If we don't mind, he's just going to distribute his leaflets and then he can drive us...</span></div>
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Wir sind gottfroh über diese Hilfsbereitschaft, denn allein hätten wir die Bank nicht gefunden. Als wir endlich mit unseren mexikanischen Pesos zum Auto zurückkehren, fragt uns der Mann, ob wir denn schon gefrühstückt hätten. Leider nicht, sagen wir, denn wir hätten nicht zahlen können. Er nimmt uns mit in sein Restaurant und lädt uns auf Pupusas ein, eine Spezialität aus seinem Heimatland El Salvador.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We're so grateful for his helpfulness because we wouldn't have found the bank by ourselves. When we finally return to the car with our Mexican Pesos, the man asks if we had breakfast yet. No, we say, because we couldn't have paid for it. He takes us to his restaurant and treats us to Pupusas, a specialty from his home country, El Salvador.</span></div>
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Das sind sie; gebackene Pfannkuchen mit Fleisch, Bohnenpüree und Käse gefüllt. Man isst sie mit Krautsalat und Paprikasoße. Sehr lecker!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Here they are; pan cakes filled with meat, beans and cheese. You eat them with coleslaw and chipotle sauce. Very yummy!</span></div>
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Während des Essens versuchen wir natürlich, ein paar Sätze auf Spanisch zu sagen. Mit Erfolg! Manchmal verstehen wir sogar die Antworten!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">During the meal, we try to say a few sentences in Spanish. It works! We even understand some of the answers!</span></div>
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Wir freuen uns jetzt schon auf El Salvador...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We're really looking forward to El Salvador now...</span><br />
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Den Rest des Tages verbringen wir erleichtert und in Urlaubsstimmung. Wir schlendern durch die Stadt und lassen die ersten Eindrücke auf uns wirken: Die laute, fröhliche Musik zum Beispiel, die einem aus jedem Geschäft und aus jedem zweiten Auto entgegendröhnt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We spend the rest of the day relieved and in holiday mood. We stroll through the town and soak in the first impressions: The loud and happy music that you hear coming out of every shop entrance and every other car, for example.</span></div>
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Leute, die einem auf der Straße alles Mögliche andrehen wollen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">People selling all sorts of things on the street. </span><br />
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Und natürlich das Essen! Wir können gar nicht genug kriegen von all diesen fremden Geschmäckern. Ausprobiert wird alles, und je unaussprechlicher, desto lieber. In einem Süßigkeitenladen verbringen wir zunächst fast eine Stunde damit, herauszufinden, was all die Leckereien sind. Und entscheiden uns dann für diese kandierten Limetten mit Kokosnussfüllung. Wow!!!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And then the food of course! We cannot get enough of all those strange flavours. We try everything, and the more unpronounceable the better. In a candy shop, we spend almost an hour trying to figure out what all the delicacies are before we decide on these candied limes with coconut filling. Wow!!!</span><br />
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<b><u>Montag, 11. November:</u></b><br />
Eigentlich wollten wir heute weiterfahren, aber in der Früh komme ich zum ersten Mal dazu, mit meiner mittlerweile über drei Monate alten Nichte Emma zu skypen. Das lasse ich mir nicht entgehen. Als Dave und ich dann schließlich abreisefertig sind, ist es fast 12 Uhr. Die heutige Etappe ist 70 Kilometer lang, und wir haben noch nicht gefrühstückt und eingekauft. Das wird zu knapp, denn Sonnenuntergang ist bereits um 16:45 Uhr - danach ist es schlagartig dunkel.<br />
Was soll's? Wir bleiben noch einen Tag hier, suchen uns eine Wäscherei und gehen an den Strand.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We had planned to roll out today but then I get the chance to skype with my niece Emma for the first time in over three months. I'm not going to miss out on that. When Dave and I are ready to go it's almost noon. Today's leg is 70 kilometres, and we haven't even had breakfast and gone shopping yet. That's too risky because sunset it at 4:45 pm - after that it's dark right away.</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">So what the heck? We stay another day, find a laundromat and go for a walk on the beach.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">This one is for you exclusively, Cherry. </span><br />
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Eine Fröhlichkeit legen die Leute hier an den Tag, das wirkt nach so viel amerikanischer Gedämpftheit schon therapeutisch. Wir saugen das Lebensgefühl hier auf und freuen uns auf mehr!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The people here practice a kind of happiness that's almost therapeutic after such a long time of American subduedness. We soak up the love of life here and are looking forward to more of it!</span></div>
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Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com2Rosarito, Baja California, Mexico32.3587909 -117.04820332.2514909 -117.2095645 32.466090900000005 -116.8868415tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6838129091742520098.post-1790305901721148972013-11-09T23:18:00.003-08:002021-02-16T01:33:35.687-08:00San Francisco bis San Diego<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Donnerstag, 24. Oktober:</u></b><br />
Aus San Francisco mit dem Fahrrad rauszukommen ist mühselig, umständlich und nervig, denn nur weil es sich um den großen Pazifikküstenradweg handelt, auf dem jährlich unzählige Auswärtige unterwegs sind, heißt das noch lange nicht, dass die Route ausreichend beschildert ist. Oder am Pazifik entlang führt. Man fragt sich also geduldig im Zickzackkurs durch Wohngebiete und zwischen landwirtschaftlichen Feldern hindurch, überquert auf einer Buckelpiste zehnmal den für Fahrräder gesperrten Highway und hofft, dass es nach der nächsten Abzweigung endlich normal weitergeht.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Getting out of San Francisco by bicycle is tough, complicated and annoying, because the fact that it's the famous Pacific coast bike route, taken by countless non-locals each year, doesn't mean it's sufficiently signposted. Or goes along the Pacific ocean. So you keep asking locals, zigzag through residential areas, agricultural fields and endless hills, cross the highway like ten times (no bikes allowed there) and hope it'll turn back to normal after the next corner.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 57,8 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 14,65 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Halfmoon Bay State Park<br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 25. Oktober:</u></b><br />
Nach dem Großstadtrummel brauchen wir einen Tag Ruhe. Wir bleiben am Campingplatz, beobachten Surfer am Strand, lesen, waschen Wäsche und verdauen die Eindrücke von San Francisco.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">After the hustle and bustle of the big city we need a rest day. We stay at the campground, watch surfers from the beach, read, do some laundry and digest the impressions of San Francisco.</span><br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 26. Oktober:</u></b></div>
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Gipfelkekse. Mann, bin ich rot im Gesicht!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Hill top cookies. I can't believe how red I am!</span><br />
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Rätsel des Tages: Alle hundert Meter etwa liegt Rosenkohl auf dem Seitenstreifen. Ich verstehe ja sehr gut, dass Leute das Zeug wegschmeißen, aber warum denn ausgerechnet auf der Straße?</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Mystery of the day: Every hundred metres or so, there's some Brussel sprouts on the shoulder. I totally understand why people would through that stuff away but does it have to be on the road?</span></div>
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Kitesurfer kurz vor Santa Cruz. Jeder Einwohner hier scheint ein Surfbrett zu haben, und die Surfbretthalterung gehört zur Grundausstattung eines jeden Fahrrads.</div>
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Die Stadt selber wäre sehenswert und gemütlich, aber wir kommen erst am späten Nachmittag an und müssen auf die andere Seite. Der Radlweg schlängelt sich durch die Luxuswohnviertel an der Küste - für uns bedeutet das anderthalb Stunden unfreiwillige Stadtbesichtigung, keine Einkaufsmöglichkeit und wieder mal schlecht beschilderter Zickzackkurs.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Kite surfers just before Santa Cruz. Seems like every local owns a surf board, and the surf board mounting belongs to every bicycle here.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">The city itself would be nice and worth seeing but it's already late in the afternoon and we still have to get to the other side. The bike path winds its way through the rich neighbourhoods along the coast - which means an hour and a half of compulsory sight seeing, no supermarkets and once again: badly signposted zigzagging.</span></div>
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Gefahrene Strecke: 96,27 km</div>
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Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,35 km/h</div>
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Nachtlager: New Brighton State Park nähe Santa Cruz</div>
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<b><u>Sonntag, 27. Oktober:</u></b><br />
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Zum Vergleich: Rechts unser Zelt, links Clemens' Dackelgarage. In jedem Campingplatz werden wir auf unser Monsterteil angesprochen und gefragt, wie viel es wiegt (13 Kilo). Aber wir würden mit keinem tauschen wollen: Unsere komplette Ausrüstung inklusive Fahrräder passt bequem rein, wir können uns im Stehen umziehen, kollisionsfrei aneinander vorbeigehen und Regentage aushalten, ohne uns gegenseitig wahnsinnig zu machen.</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Comparison: our tent on the right, Clemens' wiener garage on the left. In every campground we get asked about the weight of our monster tent (13 kg). But we wouldn't want to swap with anybody: All our gear including the bikes fit comfortably inside, we can get changed standing up, walk around without bumping into each other and survive rainy days without driving each other crazy.</span></div>
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Rosenkohl<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Brussel sprouts</span><br />
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Erdbeeren<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Strawberries</span><br />
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Es war einmal...</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Once upon a time...</span><br />
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Auf dem Weg nach Monterey kämpfen wir gegen den Wind, und zu allem Überfluss ist die Fahrradroute auch noch krumm und bucklig. Irgendwann wird es uns zu blöd und wir fahren trotz des Verbots auf den kerzengeraden und flachen Highway. Leider können wir nicht einfach anhalten, denn jeder Quadratmeter Grund ist in Privatbesitz (hauptsächlich landwirtschaftliche Felder) und mit mehreren "Betreten verboten"-Schildern versehen.<br />
Es ist schon längst dunkel, als wir endlich in Monterey ankommen, aber das Schlimmste liegt noch vor uns: Eine Stunde Irrfahrt durch die Stadt, und zum krönenden Abschluss ein langer, steiler Berg zum Campingplatz, der hauptsächlich von Obdachlosen bewohnt wird. Was für ein beschissener Tag!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On our way to Monterey, we fight against the wind, and the windy and hilly bike path doesn't add to our good mood either. At some point we're so sick of it that we decide to go on the straight and flat highway after all, even though bicycles are prohibited there. Unfortunately, we cannot just stop and camp because every square metre is private land (mostly farm fields) and decorated with a "Keep out!" sign.</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's already been dark for a long time when we finally arrive in Monterey, but the worst is still to come: It takes us over one hour to find the campground, and of course it's on top of a long steep hill and mostly occupied by homeless people. What a shitty day!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 73,26 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 13,25 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Veterans' Memorial State Park in Monterey</div>
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<b><u>Montag, 28. Oktober:</u></b><br />
In der Früh regnet es, und wir haben gerade beschlossen, einen Ruhetag in Monterey einzulegen, als wir auf dem Weg zum Zähneputzen Mike und Sarah treffen!! Die zwei waren mit uns auf der Fähre von Alaska nach Vancouver Island und wissen ein billiges Motel hier in der Stadt...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's raining when we wake up and we've just decided to stay in Monterey for a day when we see Mike and Sarah at the picnic table!! The two of them were on the ferry from Alaska to Vancouver Island with us and they tell us about a cheap motel downtown...</span></div>
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Zwetschgendatschi!!</div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Plum pie very close to what I know from home!!</span></div>
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Abendessen im Pub mit Mike, Sarah und Clemens. Ein sehr lustiger Abend!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dinner in a pub with Mike, Sarah and Clemens. A very cheerful evening!</span><br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 29. Oktober:</u></b><br />
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Kaum sind wir aus Monterey draußen, genießen wir die Fahrt wieder: Sonne, Meer, schroffe Klippen... und wir dürfen wieder auf dem Highway fahren!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">As soon as we're out of Monterey we enjoy riding again: sunshine, ocean, steep cliffs... and we're allowed on the highway here!</span><br />
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Bixby Brücke<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Bixby bridge</span><br />
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Schwarz und Rot, das sind wir!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Black and red, that's us!</span><br />
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Mike und Sarah<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Mike and Sarah</span><br />
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Durst!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Water!</span><br />
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Noch mehr Durst!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Baileys!</span><br />
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Am Abend spielen wir wieder einmal Carcassonne im Zelt. Draußen wird es uns ein bisschen zu ungeheuer, als sich beim Abendessen ein Stinktier an Clemens' Zahnpasta zu schaffen macht. Und zwar direkt unterm Tisch. Überhaupt ist das ein Tierparadies hier: Rehe, Raben, Waschbären, Kojoten und Ziesel sehen und hören wir ohne Ende. Klapperschlangen gibt's hier anscheinend auch, aber wir sehen nur das Warnschild dafür.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In the evening, we play a round of Carcassonne in our tent. We don't want to sit at the table outside anymore after a skunk gets into Clemens' tooth paste during dinner, right underneath the picnic bench! It's quite the zoo here with tons of deer, ravens, raccoons, coyotes and gophers. Apparently, there are rattle snakes around here as well but we only see the warning sign for them.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 44 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 14,16 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Andrew Molera State Park (walk-in)<br />
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<b><u>Mittwoch, 30. Oktober:</u></b><br />
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Was für ein geiler Tag! Bei schönstem Wetter radeln wir direkt am Pazifik entlang. Die langen Anstiege haben's zwar in sich, aber dafür haben wir ständig tolle Aussichten und anschließend geht's superlang bergab.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">What an awesome day! We ride along the pacific coast in the most beautiful weather. There are a lot of long climbs but we just love the view and the long downhills afterwards.</span><br />
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Mittagspause mit Clemens<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lunch break with Clemens</span><br />
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Blick vom Highway zu einem Wasserfall direkt am Strand. Leider kann man da nicht runter, das wäre ein traumhaftes Fleckchen zum Campen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">View from the highway to a waterfall on the beach. Unfortunately, you cannot access it - what a perfect camp spot that would be!</span><br />
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Dave und ich bei der Arbeit.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I at work.</span><br />
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Wieder ein Berg geschafft!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Another hill done!</span><br />
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Mittlerweile sieht Dave ein, dass eine Glasflasche schwer und zerbrechlich ist, und dass Sahnelikör ohne Kühlschrank nur begrenzt haltbar ist. Drum gibt es heute zum Abendessen Schokoladenkekse mit Baileys-Dip.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave's realized at last that a glass bottle is both heavy and fragile, and that cream liqueur doesn't last long without refrigeration. So we have chocolate chip cookies dipped in Baileys for dinner.</span><br />
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Seltenes Glück: Sonne genießen nach einem Radltag. Normalerweise kommen wir erst kurz vor Sonnenuntergang (derzeit um 18:15 Uhr) an und müssen schauen, dass wir das Zelt aufbauen und essen, bevor die Waschbären aktiv werden.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Seldom bliss: enjoying the sun after a day of riding. Usually, we only stop just before sundown (at the moment at 6:15 pm) so we need to see to it that we set up the tent and eat before the raccoons come out.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 54,20 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 14,47 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Kirk Creek Campground nähe Lucia<br />
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<b><u>Donnerstag, 31. Oktober:</u></b><br />
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Sowas hab ich noch nie gesehen und vor allem noch nie gehört: See-Elefanten. Im November beginnen die brutalen Kämpfe der Männchen um die Weibchen. Mann, machen die einen Lärm!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">I've never seen or heard anything like that: elephant seals. In November, the male animals start their brutal fights for the females. The noise they make is unreal!</span><br />
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Sie beißen und schmeißen sich mit ihren Oberkörpern aneinander - ein Ringkampf ohne Arme. Und dabei grunzen sie möglichst laut und furchteinflößend, so dass man sie schon von weitem hört.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">They bite and throw themselves at each other with their upper bodies - it's like wrestling without arms. And they grunt as loudly and scary as they can, so you can hear them from far away.</span><br />
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Waffenstillstand für eine Weile, dann geht's wieder weiter. Wir könnten stundenlang zuschauen!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Short armistice before they resume their business. We could watch them for hours!</span><br />
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Und gleich nochmal eine Überraschung: Zebras! Anscheinend war der frühere Besitzer von Schloss Hearst ein passionierter Raritätensammler, der unter anderem exotische Tiere auf seinem Grundstück hielt.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And another surprise: Zebras! Apparently, the former owner of Hearst castle collected rare items, like exotic animals for example.</span><br />
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Sarah und Mike beim Kochen. Was die zwei alles durch die Gegend schleppen, ist sensationell: nicht nur frisches Obst und Gemüse und richtiges Fleisch, sondern auch Tiefkühlpizza ("jaa, das war ein Spontaneinkauf"). Jeden Abend wird geschnipselt und sautiert, gebraten und gewürzt, es ist eine Schau.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Sarah and Mike cooking up a storm. The amount of food these two haul around on their bikes is unheard of: not only fresh produce and real meat but also frozen pizza ("yeah, that was an impulse buy"). Every night, they chop and sauté and sizzle and season, it's a good show!</span><br />
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Bis die beiden anfangen zu essen, haben Dave und ich abgespült, alles Essbare waschbärensicher im Zelt verstaut und Holz gehackt. Aber bei uns gibt es halt auch nur Dosenfutter. Schön einfach!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">By the time they finally get to eat, Dave and I have washed our dishes, packed away all food in the tent and made some fire wood. But all we eat is canned food. Very simple!</span><br />
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Und schon geht's los: Die hellen Flecken hinter der Feuerstelle sind zwei Augenpaare auf Nahrungssuche.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">And showtime: The bright spots behind the fire pit are two pairs of eyes searching for food.</span><br />
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Mike auf Waschbärenjagd, schwer bewaffnet mit einem Spezialwaschbärenprügel und einer Flasche Bier.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Mike the hunter, heavily armed with a special raccoon club and a bottle of beer.</span><br />
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Auch Dave jagt die Viecher, aber mit der Kamera. Mehr oder weniger erfolgreich...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave also tracks down the animals, but with the camera. More or less successful...</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 69,4 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,38 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: San Simeon State Park<br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 1. November:</u></b><br />
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Massenstart am Morgen, mal ganz was Neues: Hinter mir Dave, Mike, Sarah und Clemens. Die Gruppe löst sich allerdings schon nach einer halben Stunde auf, weil wir in Cambria einkaufen müssen. Dave und ich fahren sowieso am liebsten allein; da müssen wir nicht ständig diskutieren.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Group start in the morning, something new for us: Behind me there's Dave, Mike, Sarah and Clemens. The group only lasts until Cambria because we have to do some shopping. Dave and I prefer to ride by ourselves anyway, that saves us a lot of discussing.</span><br />
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Keine Ahnung, ob diese Vogelscheuchen von Halloween übriggeblieben sind, oder eine spezielle Kunstform hier am Ort sind. Aber die Dinger stehen überall rum!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">No idea if these scare crows are leftovers from halloween or a local form of art. But they're everywhere!</span><br />
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Viele von ihnen dienen als Werbeträger, dieser fromme Chor hier zum Beispiel für ein Konzert in der Kirche.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">A lot of them are used for advertising stuff. This choir for example draws attention to a church concert.</span><br />
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Wir kommen genau einen Tag zu früh nach Cayun: Morgen findet hier ein großes Oldtimertreffen statt. Die altmodischen Gebäude bilden eine wunderbare Kulisse für die hochglanzpolierten Benzinfresser!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We're riding through Cayucos one day too early for the big classic car show. The old fashioned buildings are the perfect back drop for all those polished gluttons for petrol!</span><br />
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Ein paar Kilometer weiter beobachten wir vom Strand aus Wale.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">A few kilometres down the road we get to watch whales from the beach.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 48,4 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 17,8 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Morro Bay State Park<br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 2. November:</u></b><br />
Ruhetag in Morro Bay. Wir radeln auf einen Kaffee in den Ort und schlendern durch einen Bauernmarkt, das ist alles. Am Abend lernen wir <a href="http://bloedisonabike.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Marcus und Elisabeth</a> kennen, die mit ihrem Tandem durch die Welt blödeln. Es gibt viel zu erzählen am Lagerfeuer!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Rest day in Morro Bay. We ride into town for a coffee and browse through a farmers' market, that's all. In the evening we get to know <a href="http://bloedisonabike.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Marcus and Elisabeth</a>, who cycle through the world on their tandem. There's lots to talk about at the campfire!</span><br />
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<u><b>Sonntag, 3. November:</b></u><br />
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Endlich! Seit Victoria bin ich auf der Suche nach einem neuen Kamm. Mein schwarzer hat jahrelang gehalten, aber der ständige Druck in der Satteltasche hat ihm das Genick gebrochen. Ich hätte nie geglaubt, dass es so schwer ist, einen elastischen Kamm mit groben Zinken zu finden! Wäsche waschen und einkaufen in San Luis Obispo dauern den halben Tag, aber danach ist es nur noch ein kurzer Weg bis zum heutigen Ziel.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Finally! I've been looking for a new comb since Victoria. My black one lived for years until the constant pressure in the pannier eventually killed it. I wouldn't have thought finding an elastic comb with wide teeth could be that hard! </span><span style="color: #cc0000;">Laundry and shopping in San Luis Obispo take up half the day, but after that it's only a short way to today's goal.</span></div>
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Auf dem Weg vom Campingplatz zum Strand kommt mir dieser Eukalyptusbaum dazwischen...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">On our way from the campground to the beach this eucalyptus tree gets in my way...</span><br />
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Bester Sonnenuntergang am Meer bisher: Wir spielen, bis es uns friert.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Best ocean sunset so far: We jam until it gets too cold.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 43,33 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 18,18 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: Pismo Beach State Park<br />
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<b><u>Montag, 4. November:</u></b><br />
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Diese Abkürzung hat's in sich! In der Landkarte stand allerdings nichts von einer 16% Steigung! Oben angekommen, ist es aber ein schöner Blick auf die Felder hinter uns.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This shortcut is a tough one! It didn't say anything about a 16% climb on the map! Once we're on the top though the view back over the fields is great.</span><br />
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In und um Guadalupe fühlen wir plötzlich, wie nah wir Mexiko sind: Trinkjoghurt und andere importierte Schmankerl im Supermercado, in dem überwiegend Spanisch gesprochen wird...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Around Guadalupe we feel how close we are to Mexico: The supermercado sells drinking yoghurt and other imported goodies, and we hear more Spanisch than English spoken all of a sudden...</span><br />
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... und alle möglichen Schilder auf Spanisch, bzw. "Spanglisch".<br />
Die Landschaft hier ist faszinierend. Nicht schön, aber interessant: Einerseits die grünen Farmen, deren intensive landwirtschaftliche Nutzung ohne die riesigen Bewässerungsanlagen unmöglich wäre (wir sehen Erdbeeren, Kohl, Sellerie, Kürbisse und Koriander)...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and there are all sorts of signs written in Spanish, or "Spanglish".</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">The landscape here is so fascinating. Not really pretty but interesting: On one hand, you've got the green farms, whose intense agricultural usage totally depends on big watering systems (we see strawberries, cabbage, celery, pumpkins and coriander)...</span><br />
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... und andererseits die dürren, braunen Ranches.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... and on the other hand the barren, brown ranches.</span><br />
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Eine saftige Weide schaut anders aus!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Lush pastures look differently!</span><br />
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Nix mehr mit Wild-in-die-Böschung-bieseln: Die Gefahr, hier auf Klapperschlangen zu stoßen, ist zu groß. Ausschwitzen ist angesagt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Gone are the days of peeing into the embankment: The risk of encountering rattle snakes here is too big. Sweat it all out!</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 74,72 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 18,34 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: River Park Campground in Lompoc<br />
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<b><u>Dienstag, 5. November:</u></b><br />
Ein anstrengender Tag! Auf über 30 Kilometern erarbeiten wir uns mit Gegenwind einen Berg, den wir auf einer rasanten, nur knapp 4 Kilometer langen Abfahrt genießen dürfen. Toll.<br />
Am Campingplatz angekommen, sind wir zunächst enttäuscht, denn entgegen allen bisherigen staatlichen Parks zahlen wir hier nicht fünf, sondern zehn Dollar pro Nacht und Nase. Wucher! Unsere Kinnlade fällt noch weiter runter, als wir den für Wanderer und Radlfahrer reservierten Sandplatz sehen, der nur durch ein Bahngleis vom Highway getrennt wird.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's a hard day! We have to fight the wind on a slow 30 kilometre climb and only get a quick 4 kilometre downhill out of it. Awesome.</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">When we arrive at the campground we're totally disappointed at first because other than the previous state parks, this one charges $10 instead of $5 per person per night. Daylight robbery! Our chins drop even more when we see the sand pit they've reserved as a Hiker-Biker camp, and that only the railway line separates it from the highway.</span><br />
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Doch die unübersehbare Radlerbräune an Clemens' Haxen ist unsere Rettung: Zwei andere Camper erkennen die Situation und laden uns spontan auf ihren Platz ein.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">But of all things, it's Clemens' distinct cyclist's tan line that saves us: Two other campers identify the situation and invite us to their spot spontaneously.</span><br />
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Normalerweise fahren Chris und Minette lieber mit dem Rad, aber dieses Mal sind sie mit dem Auto unterwegs. Und was sie nicht alles dabei haben! Sie verwöhnen uns mit Steaks, kaltem Bier, frisch gebackenen Keksen und Popcorn!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Usually, Chris and Minette travel by bike but this time they're car camping. You wouldn't believe the stuff they've got! They spoil us with steaks, cold beer, freshly baked cookies and popcorn!</span><br />
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Zum ersten Mal auf unserer Tour kommt es vor, dass jemand ein größeres Zelt hat als wir. Dave verliebt sich spontan in das Ding, aber für eine Fahrradtour kommt es mit seinen über 23 Kilo leider nicht in Frage.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">It's the first time we meet somebody with a bigger tent than ours. Dave falls in love right away, but the thing weighs over 23 kilograms. A little heavy for a bicycle tour.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 67,38 km<br />
Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit: 16,12 km/h<br />
Nachtlager: El Capitan Campground nähe Goleta<br />
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<u><b>Mittwoch, 6. November:</b></u><br />
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Ein Flaschenboden steht mitten auf dem Radlweg...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">There's a bottle bottom standing on the bike path...</span><br />
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... aber wofür schleppe ich meinen persönlichen Zweiradmechaniker durch die Gegend!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">... but what do I drag along my personal bike mechanic for?</span><br />
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Wir erreichen Goleta schneller als gedacht und mieten uns einen Minivan. Die Umgebung von Los Angeles ist alles andere als fahrradtauglich, da sind sich alle einig, die es schon einmal versucht haben. Wir nehmen die Warnungen ernst und überspringen sie einfach großzügig.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We arrive Goleta earlier than we thought and rent a minivan. The area around Los Angeles is anything but bike friendly, everybody who's tried it agrees on that. We take the warnings seriously and skip it generously.</span><br />
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Irgendwie ist es schade, dass wir in der Dunkelheit nicht viel sehen, aber der Verkehr ist sogar in der Nacht relativ stark - ich möchte nicht wissen, wie es hier untertags zugeht!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In a way it's too bad that we don't get to see much in the darkness, but the traffic is quite heavy even at night - I don't want to know how it looks like during the day!</span><br />
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Hafen<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Harbour</span><br />
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Beliebteste Farbe für Ampeln, auch in der Nacht: rot.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Most popular colour for lights, even at night: red.</span><br />
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Wir haben den kompletten fünfspurigen Interstate Highway für uns (an einer Stelle ist er sogar achtspurig), und trotzdem brauchen wir sechs Stunden für die 310 Kilometer bis Carlsbad.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We've got the whole five lane interstate highway to ourselves (at some point it's even eight lanes), but it still takes us six hours to drive 310 kilometres to Carlsbad.</span><br />
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Gefahrene Strecke: 26,21 km (Fahrrad) und 310 km (Auto)<br />
Nachtlager: Campingplatz in Carlsbad<br />
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<u><b>Donnerstag, 7. November:</b></u><br />
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Weiterfahrt nach San Diego am Morgen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">We continue to San Diego in the morning.</span><br />
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Lotsen und Fahren für Fortgeschrittene. Als passionierte Navi-Gegner verlassen Dave und ich uns voll Vertrauen auf unsere grobe, aber kostenlose Kalifornien-Übersichtskarte, meinen Orientierungssinn und seine guten Augen. Und es funktioniert. Ein paarmal verfransen wir uns irgendwo in der Innenstadt, aber nicht schlimm genug um das GPS einzuschalten.<br />
Insgesamt sind es 376 Kilometer, die wir per Auto zurücklegen. Und vielleicht 20 davon wären mit dem Fahrrad okay, der Rest ist total zugebaut, eine Stadt nach der anderen. Wir sind froh, dass wir uns das nicht angetan haben!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Advanced piloting and driving conditions. As Dave and I share a rather passionate dislike for navigation systems, we just rely on our free general map of California, my orientation and Dave's good eyes. And it works. We get lost a couple of times somewhere downtown but not bad enough to switch on the GPS.</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In total, we drive 376 kilometres by car, and maybe 20 of them would be okay by bicycle. The rest is completely developed, one city after the other. We're glad we didn't do that to us!</span><br />
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In San Diego angekommen, besorgen wir ein paar Campingartikel bei REI, geben den Mietwagen ab und schwingen uns wieder auf die Räder. Nach einem gemeinsamen Mittagessen verabschieden wir uns von Clemens, der nach knapp vier Wochen mit uns wieder allein weiterreist.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">In San Diego we purchase a few camping items at REI, bring back the rental car and swing ourselves onto the bikes again. After having lunch together we say goodbye to Clemens who's going to travel by himself again after nearly four weeks with us.</span><br />
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Dave und ich übernachten bei Pam und Walter, einem Ehepaar, das wir über www.warmshowers.org kennen gelernt haben. Wie lang ist es her, dass wir eine richtige Bettdecke hatten?<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Dave and I spend the night at Pam and Walter's, a couple whom we've found on www.warmshowers.org. How long has it been since we had a real blanket?</span><br />
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Man merkt kaum, dass die zwei richtige Radlfanatiker sind.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Hard to see that those two are bike freaks.</span><br />
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Nachtlager: Pam und Walter (warmshower in San Diego)<br />
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<b><u>Freitag, 8. November:</u></b><br />
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Strandpromenade von San Diego - so hatten wir uns Kalifornien vorgestellt!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Promenade in San Diego - now this is how we had imagined California to look like!</span><br />
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Nicht einmal Rollstuhlfahrer müssen hier auf einen Strandspaziergang verzichten!<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Even wheelchair users can go for a walk on the beach here!</span><br />
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Bay watch...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Bay watch...</span><br />
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Ob dieser Typ tatsächlich surfen kann, werden wir nie rausfinden. Aber posen kann der, das ist sensationell. Schön zum Zuschaun...<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">If this guy can actually surf I will never know. But he's a sensational poser. Fun to watch for sure!</span><br />
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Biergarten mit künstlicher Surfanlage.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Beer garden with artificial surf system.</span><br />
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Tja, und dann steht plötzlich Eckart vor uns. Nach seiner Tour durchs Death Valley gibt's viel zu erzählen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Well, and then Eckart's standing in front of us. After his tour through the Death Valley there's lots to talk about.</span><br />
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San Diego im Sonnenuntergang. Danach wird es schlagartig dunkel, und starker Nebel umhüllt die ganze Stadt. Dave und ich brauchen drei Stunden zu unseren heutigen warmshowers-Gastgebern, Brad und Ann.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">San Diego at dusk. Afterwards, it gets dark very quickly, and a thick fog lays over the city. It takes us three hours to ride to our today's warmshowers hosts, Brad and Ann.</span><br />
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<b><u>Samstag, 9. November:</u></b><br />
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Frühes Frühstück, das letzte in den USA: Brad verwöhnt uns mit Pfannkuchen, so lässt sich auch Dave kurz vor sechs schon aus dem Bett locken! Aber wir wollen auf jeden Fall früh los, damit wir nicht im Dunkeln durch die - nun, sagen wir mal "konflikterfahrene" - Stadt Tijuana gleich hinter der Grenze irren müssen.<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">Early breakfast, the last one in the USA: Brad treats us to pancakes, which lures even Dave out of bed before six o'clock. But we really want to get an early start today to avoid riding through the - let's call it "experienced with conflicts" - town of Tijuana right after the border.</span><br /></div>
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Uschi and Dave Lynchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17097332419386948097noreply@blogger.com0San Diego, CA, USA32.7153292 -117.1572550999999931.8613702 -118.44814859999998 33.5692882 -115.86636159999999